Below, please find a list of pages on this site, by brand, to help you find specific brand information about your brand of compressor.
Is your compressor brand not listed? No worries. Just add a comment on any page asking about your compressor brand, and describe the issue you are having, and it will get a response, and also will, in time, generate another page about your specific compressor brand for all to be able to refer to.
Thanks!
I hope in asking this in the right place. I have been all over this site, about 30 minutes, looking for a link to register with no luck. Most forums won’t let you post a comment or ask a question until you have registered trying been approved by a moderator.. And most like the rules followed as for where to post what etc. So if I’m posting in the wrong location please excuse me and know that I did attempt to find the correct location. Now on to the reason I’m here.
I have a Husky 20 gallon oiless compressor model H1820F. The bearings on the piston arm went out and burned the belt until it broke. I have a new belt and bearings to install. I have spent 6 hours total in my shop in Florida in 85% humidity with a temp of 90+ outside with only a door to open and a single fan while I fight this belt. I saw it suggested to put the belt behind the pully they drives the piston (piston arm removed of course) then put it over the drive pully on the motor and feed it on the larger pully grub the bottom while keeping it on the drive pully. This model has a bracket between the crank shaft pully and the motor that acts as a guide to the piston and is only about 1/4 or so if the back of the crank shaft pully. So there is no room to do it that way. And there are no videos online showing how to install this belt. I manage to fight it almost on then with what should be the last half a turn off the crank shaft pully it pulls it off the drive pully. The ribs cause it to feed off the drive pully since it’s at an angle and no amount of strength will force it to stay on. I’m too the point in going to wind up pulling out my Glock and dumping a few mags into this thing its got me so frustrated and irritated. And whatever genuise designed this thing somehow forgot that when you have a belt you need a way to change it. So there was no thought given to adding an adjustment screw so you can loosen it to remove the old belt and put on the new one then tighten it to tension the belt. That would have made entirely to much sense. I thought maybe the belt was the wrong size, but I talked to the vice president of the company that manufactured them when I ordered it and he is the one that looked up the part number since it was a discontinued model and actually put my order together. And I heard him doing all the referencing and cross checking in the background while I was on the line waiting for him to put my order together so I could pay for it.
Is there a special tool for this? I mean I seriously to the point of taking my frustration out by destroying this thing! They’re simply has to be a better way.
I have a Compair 76 mobile screw compressor. I’ve replaced the internal coupling rubber/flange which had split in half – new coupling installed, this time, cracked the actual metal plate and started shredding the rubber coupling! No engineer seems to know the solution so I’m hoping someone out there knows what’s wrong – Compair useless, emailed several times but not reply – any advice please – thanks, Sue (a stressed out wife lol) I do have a video of the compressor and the racket it makes with this fault….
My Porter Cable C2002 type 9 compressor continues to run up to 120psi and never won’t shut off. It never reaches the 150psi design tank pressure.
Hello, I have been searching all over internet and emailing companies about this compressor I have. It says devilbliss but has Kellogg cast in it, not sure if they worked together. 2 cylinders, same size, 2 belts and the motor is 2 no patent dares back to 1916. I can’t even find a photo of anything that looks like it. I think it may have been dark green but not sure.
Looks like a real jewel. Happy to post in the even others can see the photos and proffer advice. You have, of course, tried to contact DeVilbiss?
Yes, I guess they are called dev air? And they weren’t much help. Actually none at all lol.
Trying to optimize my setup and could use some input I use a compressor that feeds air to a nitrogen generator which is used for scientific instruments(gas chromatograph). The inlet pressure of the nitrogen generator is 90 psi. The compressor and nitrogen generator are on 24/7. Currently the compressor kicks on every couple of hours and runs for 30 seconds or a minute. When this happens I get slight pressure blips on the instruments.
I have a 2 hp California air tools 10020c compressor it has a 10 gallon tank. I just bought a 20 gallon auxiliary tank. My thought was the extra storage capacity would help stabilize line pressure. I have the compressor in the basement and have copper tubing running from basement up the side of the building into the room with the instruments a distance of around 75 feet.
The questions I have is should the aux tank be in the basement with the compressor or in the room with the instruments? Does it make any differance?
Also wondering if the air line going from basement to outside and back inside will be an issue. In the pacific northwest where temp is pretty moderate but does get below freezing on occasion.
Hey Dustin. Thinking about your issue, and recognizing that adding storage capacity will reduce the “bump” of pressure changes in the system, it may not be enough to resolve the issue if pressure is critical. I’m wondering, are you using a quality, precision regulator in the circuit. A precision regulator has very little in the way of “bump” when exerting pressure control, and that may resolve the issue satisfactorily. Thoughts?
Thanks for the response. Right now I just have the regulator on the compressor and each instrument has a built in regulator. Im thinking I will try to add a between the compressor and generator and another on between the generator and the instruments. Any recommendations on a quality precision regulator. Currently using brass swagelok fittings and switches and the copper are chromatography grade.
I would agree with the regulator upgrade as a test. Perhaps acquire one to see the net effect. As to brands, there are many, and you’ll want to do some browsing to find the most convenient location for you to acquire one that meets your specifications. Looks for the brands that have the least pressure drop or increase as the pump spike occur.
I have a Fiac Miami 3hp compressor vx304
It tries to start but trips the safety switch after a few minutes.
When its trying to start I rotate the fan blade but it doesn’t work.
Thank you.
While this page isn’t specifically about the issue you describe Tadhg, it will help: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-trips-the-breaker-on-restart/
There are a number of issues that could cause this compressor problem, and we need some details to try and help. For example, does the compressor always start OK when the pressure reaches the cut in setting? And, does the compressor tank get to the same pressure each time before it cuts out?
It generaly does it from cold start but not always, it hadn’t done it for a long time.
Once it has ran for awhile and then needs to restart it may cut out.
Not much to go on.
Howdy. Did you get a chance to read the page shown in the previous response? Did you test the capacitor, for example?
Can you help me determine if this model has a 2 stage Quincy pump?
It’s labeled BINKS LOW BOY, with a Dayton 6K418A motor.
Would you know the model ID and the CFM specs?
Thank you for any reply
I can’t tell from the photo. How many cylinder/pistons are there, and are they the same size?
What is the HP of the motor. Typically you’ll get 3.5-5 CFM at 90 PSI per HP.
I don’t know the model number, but another visitor might.
Thank you. I sent the photo to Quincy customer service and they identified it as a Quincy QR210 pump. The motor is a 1 hp Dayton model 6K418A; no other identification than BINKS LOW BOY. The party selling it is far from my location, and I was hoping for a model ID to identify the tank size and specs to make sure it would fit my needs before I commit to making a long trip to take a further look at it.
Here is one more. No model id in the template. Under model # it says made in USA 1023589057 Type kl Fr ls r56 0 or q
Do you know tank size, CFM specs? Quincy pump?
Thanks for any any assistance.
Eagle max air. C5160v1.
Compressor seemed to Struggle and whine when it was filling up. Last year I replaced all the gaskets on the heads, seemed to run just fine. I use it primarily for cabinet spraying. all of a sudden it just stopped.. Landlord used it, so I’m not sure what happened when it did. I replaced the motor… nothing. Wont even make a sound. Doesn’t even try to turn on. Any suggestions ?? Tank is empty, the valves were all clean, oil change done, belt looks fine.
Zack, have you had a chance to trace the power from the source, through the switch, to the motor caps? If not, please do so. Replacing the motor was an expensive step. When you did that, did the new motor come with new capacitors?
The new motor did come with ne capacitors.
OK Zack. Once you’ve traced the power to be sure it gets to the caps, then the next step is to test the capacitors. Based on what you’ve written, unless you’ve changed the power supply to the compressor, the symptoms point to a weak or failed start cap. Good luck, and please let us know what you found.
Was also the pressure switch. Big problem is eagle does not deal parts to Canada as of 2018. Replaced motor. Replaced pressure switch, started right up. Adjusted the belt and so far so good. Thanks for the advice everyone.
So glad you got it working, Zack. Just FYI, many of the parts you refer to need not be OEM, as the compressor manufacturers buy them too, meaning that you can find them on the open market. As long as you know the specs of the part, Google that, and you’ll pretty much always find parts. Good luck.
Yup. No problems there. Everything’s been easily swapped with other manufactured parts.