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The Publishers
I have a craftsman air compressor model no 919.152830 can’t find cillander parts sears says they are deleted are there eny comp parts
Hard to say for sure, Dave, as we don’t know what parts. Maybe you could take some photos of the parts you need, and upload them in a comment replying to this thread?
I have a DeVelbliss model PRFB5020VP-1 and the discharge line from the head of the compressor to the air tank valve snapped. I have been trying in vane to find a way to fix it after paying $150 for it. I ordered nylon pneumatic easy push hose and connections, but I have been unable to find the brass fittings for the head and where it connects to the pressure valve on the top of the tank. Do you have any suggestions on where I might find these or a work around so I can get this compressor up and working?
You can try: https://www.dvsystems.com/ whom are still selling and servicing Devilbiss compressors. By the way, they are now owned by Gardner Denver. Success? If not, take the entire assembly, including the fittings at both ends, and visit a high end industrial plumbing supply house or auto parts store, and they’ll likely be able to craft one to fit. Let us know, K?
I have a Craftsman air compressor Model No. 919.152813 that utilizes an A.O. Smith AC motor S# K56A28B23 that starts up but under pressure stalls the motor resulting in a humming sound.
It build to about 25 psi before the motor bogs down and stalls.
I have the compressor plugged into 220v 4 prong outlet on it’s own circuit with a 30amp breaker. I’m using a 3ft dry cord from home depot with the neutral wire capped off. I have replaced the pressure switch/unloader valve, the check valve, and both valve plate assemblies. I checked both capacitors and visual they don’t seem to be bad. Can anyone help me out?
Hi Hunter. Looking at the caps for obvious problems like leaking or blown cover is good. However, a cap can be bad and not show it, either. You don’t say that you’ve actually tested the caps, and I believe you need to do so. There’s a page about how on this site. Please check them and advise the results. Thanks.
Thank you for the quick answer! Excuse my ignorance but what do you mean “The caps” or “Blown cover”? I’m new to air compressor repair so instead of making learning by mistake I thought I would give your site a try!
The caps are the capacitors. They need to be tested. See how on this site. In terms of “blown cover”, sometimes when caps fail, they overheat, and expand, and there develops a bulge in the covering. Good luck.
Thank you! So both caps are functioning correctly. I tested them on one of cheap multimeters using just the ohm setting and my multimeter that has the ability to test capacitance. Everything is aligned with the two caps specs. Now what do I do?
Hello again. All of the checks you’ve done have, essentially, indicated that the problem is being caused by the electric motor itself, or, that you’ve got a mechanical malfunction in the pump, leading to an increasing motor load that stops the motor.
Would you be kind enough to upload a couple of photos of the compressor? Front, back, and if you can get any cover off that would be good.
Hello willyr. I REALLY appreciate you taking the time to help me solve this issue with my compressor. I uploaded a couple pics that you requested and a pic of the cylinder sleeve and piston ring. Please let me know if you need anymore pics.
Hunter. Thanks for the photos. I can now see that your Craftsman air compressor Model No. 919.152813 has two cylinders. That I didn’t know.to your earlier posting, you replacefd the valve plates. Did, in so doing, see if there is a valve where the line from cylinder one enters the head on cylinder two, and is that valve too OK?
willyr. You’re welcome. I went ahead and replaced both valve plate assy. which included cylinder 1 and 2. The valve plate included the plate with preinstalled valves and o-rings. The old valve plate assy. looked discolored or burnt and I wanted to replace both of them just to be on the safe side. I removed the tube outlet the ran from cylinder 1 and 2 but all that was there was the nut and the o-ring. No valve to be found. The tube just enters into a cavity in the cylinder head on both cylinders.
Well OK then. All mechanical parts being good, no binding when operating, no valve blockages… then it’s pretty much got to be the motor, hmmmm? Good luck.
hi can you please help .have not got a clue what make hoping some one will know .my problem is the motor stalls at 3 bar the actual compressor jams ..let some air out and it’s possible to restart ..
Alan, lots of good tips on what you are looking for already exist. Start by following the appropriate links from this page: https://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/ Thanks.
thanks for the quick reply ..my problem don’t seem to be here but for the cost i will try a new check valve as the tank builds pressure quickly and holds pressure and i am trying to avoid a head strip down lol
My money’s on 1) valve failing 2) mechanical binding 3) maybe check valve, but I don’t think so.
My Husky compressor will turn on and charge up to 150 psi. Once I start to use it and get it down to 90 psi my compressor will not recharge the air it needs to keep going. What do you think is going on? I’ve had to deplete it completely and then restart the compressor for it to fill back up again.
https://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-wont-re-start-when-air-is-used/
Hi.. .I have a 60 gallon Kobalt compressor that is having problems…
Pressure switch and unloader valve are new.
Symptoms:
It starts fine and although gauge does not read pressure in the tank, it seems to be building some.
When it reach 20 you can feel the pump starts to work harder and when it gets to 30 PSI, the motor cant push it anymore and the velt stars to slip…
When turning it off… all the ir is being bleed through the unloader valve until everything is empty.
Would you think a faulty check valve could be the problem?
Hi Emmanuel. Yes indeed, the first thing to do is empty all air, remove the tank check valve, clean it so it works properly or replace it, then test the compressor again. Add a comment here with results if you get the chance. Thanks.
Hello, I’m a uni student and need some guidance for my grad project. Is it possible to use a compressor or pump to pull carbon dioxide gas from an incinerator (after cooling process) and then inject that gas it into a tank? Any help is welcome, thank you!
While your application is well beyond my skill set, a compressor is simply a pump. If the intake of the compressor is pulling CO2 instead of free air, the compressor doesn’t care. It will pull in gas and compress it into the tank. How you ensure that you only pull in CO2, and in enough volume for the compressor is up to how you plumb the installation.
Please do add a comment as the project unfolds. I, and others visiting this site, would be interested in updates. Good luck.
I have an old MF Master Elite Compressor. I’m in search of 2 tiny screws that secure the pressure gauge cover to the gauge itself or a completely new gauge. Also, the brass valve (see photo) leaks when I shut off the compressor. I don’t know what it is and was hoping someone could identify it – and possibly know where to get a new one.
Thank you,
David Latch
This is/was a MasterCraft compressor. Not sure if it was available anywhere in the U.S., but certainly available in Canada via the retail outlet Canadian Tire.
While appearing to be a better quality than their products are today, this was still a fairly low cost compressor. Given that, and given that there aren’t parts available for it that I know of, finding two screws for a gauge might be impossible. If not impossible, will most likely cost more than the gauge is worth.
Use your browser to search for “air compressor pressure gauges” and you’ll find lots, of varying qualities and prices. Buy the most expensive or least, knowing that in time all will wear out.
This might be a dumb question but I cannot find any information about this online. My replacement capacitors are slightly smaller than the originals which cause them to be a little loose under the cover housing. If the caps vibrate and the 2 spade connectors touch the metal cover housing, can I be electrocuted? My spade connectors are not covered. Are they suppose to have a protective cover or something?
Not so dumb. Safety first! It were me I would sure isolate the spade connectors so that they cannot touch anything they aren’t supposed to. Yup, even if the compressor is off, if touching the cap housing, the capacitor can deliver a jolt. Shouldn’t be an issue with the smaller cap as long as the specs are similar to the original, in terms of function, but you sure do want to make sure no bare electrical anything can touch metal or anything else it’s not supposed to touch.
I just purchased and installed a 034 Sanborn pressure switch on my compressor. When I turn the switch to the off position, the unloader valve stays open and leaks all of the pressure out of the tank. Is there an adjustment for this?
Consider where the air is coming from when the unloader leaks. As you point out, it’s the tank. What’s supposed to keep the air in the tank when the unloader is open? The tank check valve. I suspect yours is leaking or has failed.
I picked up an old air compressor pump, tank and motor last night. Pump is a Buckeye ball bearing model v20-6c serial 6266. im looking for any info i can get on this pump. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks, mike
BRA7180V (7.5HP/80 gallon/175psi) air compressor. What is the little lever on the backside of the pressure switch box? I just picked up the air compressor and had my electrician hook everything up. It works great but I’m puzzled about the little lever on the back of the pressure switch box. It can be moved to the vertical or horizontal position–but I’m hesitant to mess with it. I do notice the pressure switch shuts off at 150psi and I believe mine is rated to 175psi. Any guidance since I don’t have a manual?
Please take a photo of the side and back of the pressure switch where the “switch” is and upload them in a comment here, if you would. Thanks.
Does my twin cylinder oil free Pro Air II 6 hp 60 gal. made by DeVilbis need regular lubing? It’s in a soundproof box, but starting to get louder. Cant get to it unless I dismantle the box, so am asking for specific places it might need lubricant. What oil is recommended for that?
Thanks!
There are so many models of this air compressor out there that we cannot determine which is yours. Please remove the cover from the pump, and add a comment with a photo from each side of the pump.
I have a Sullivan d1850 air compressor while using it it suddenly lost air pressure and the motor revved up freely
I have a 2003 Porter-Cable consumer compressor (model CPF234005-2). The regulator adjustment seems to have frozen, at around 50 psi and I cannot change it to get air gun pressures. The tank gets to full pressure. As it happened, my 18 ga nailer also failed, so I purchased a combo kit. The regulator seems to be part and parcel of the manifold, and a replacement seems to be over $100. Is there a cheaper and safe way to rig a regulator, gauge and outlet so I can use this as a spare compressor?
Many Thanks
David
Possibly if you can remove just the regulator. Seeing the manifold and where the regulator is in it would certainly help.
Or, use off-the-shelf brass fittings from a good plumbing supply shop… adapters, connectors, tees etc. to rebuild the manifold from scratch. Start at where the air exits the tank, and build out from there. It’ll likely look like heck, but if you emulate what’s there, it’s work. The compressed air doesn’t care!
When I fill the Compresser with air. I take the hose off the coupler. All the air comes out of the coupler. What is wrong. How do I fix this.. The Compresser is A, Central Pneumatic. Oil Air Compresser. 8 gallon 2 HP 125 PSI. Please…
Well hi there Carol. Your question has prompted a new page on this site, so thanks for taking the time to post. I hope this page helps you fix your compressor.