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The Publishers
919.167600 looses 40psi +/- pressure per day. Otherwise the compressor works as expected. Original owner. Have been a little derelict in doing maintenance but do not subject it to heavy usage, air for silversmithing torches and winterizing irrigation and pool systems.
Have used soapy water several times on ALL joints. No evidence of leaks! Followed advice about check valve but found no check valve as identified in manual. Have attached photos of the supposed site of check valve and of the ending of the black tube to what I am guessing is a check valve. (I cannot find any info about alternate check valves for this unit) I, after poking around, removed the ‘thing’ from the body of the controller (see exit pipe just above). I took the thing apart, cleaned up what looked like ‘dirt’ with no beneficial result.
Refills for paper filter? Attached photos seem to have disappeared?
Help!
Addendum to above: found a reference to UNLOADER VALVE with a picture that looks like what I have instead of the check valve. I took that off and tried to ‘clean’ it up but without any benefit. There is only a spring loaded pin that can be pushed in. Does not seem likely to do anything, and it didn’t. Mystified.
How can I purchase a pressuremate 034-0197 pressure switch 4 port for a air compressor
11 gallon 3 1/2 hp brand Black Max Coleman powermate model: B 1135
Thank-you for providing such a great site! I’m dealing with an odd issue with my Makita MAC700 compressor and I’m curious if you’ve seen this before.
The compressor comes up to pressure fine, and cuts out at 125 psi. However, without fail, it cuts in again after dropping only 2-3 psi.
I’ve tried adjusting the switch, and while I can reliably change the cut out pressure, it always cuts in after the same 2-3 lb drop.
I suspect I need to replace the pressure switch, but figured I’d first post here in case you can provide some insight into exactly what would cause this.
Thanks!
I seeking help locating a replacement tool pressure regulator valve for my Central Pneumatic 3-gal Pancake compressor (item 61615). The manifold is still good but the tool pressure control broke off. Any possible replacements?
I’m looking for a part for a Trades Pro compressor model 835533
I’ve recently acquired a portable twin-stack compressor that requires a certain degree of restoration but I cannot find one bit of literature for the make and model of this unit… It is an E-Z FIT Model: NC2022H, 2 HP, 7.4 CFM, 150 PSI, 4 GAL. I know that i will need a new intake filter for sure but there’s no telling what other parts I may need. I just need some help as to where I could find parts for this particular make/model.
Hello I recently got a emglo (now known as jenny) gas powered (I believe 5hp Wisconsin) and Im only getting short bursts (maybe 2 seconds) of air! There is a gauge right off of the tank and on that I’m reading about 150 PSI.. there was a second regulator but was leaking and not in good shape.. my question is is the second regulator a must it had the valve to show the amount of air wanted for the tool being used I’m guessing! I have my line Hooked directly to the 1st coupler and gauge! I will enclose photos thanks for any information you May give me in the future! This website is awesome!! Where have you guys been all my life!! I’m a Masonry contractor I also do concrete new installation and demo work as well as stone cutting and stone masonry!! I own several compressors and. Boy I sure could needed you’re awesome website and knowledge several times.. in the photos I send you the Smallest one is the one I’m questioning about!!!
I have a porter cable pancake compressor and the regulator is adjusted to 120 psi. When a blow gun or tire fitting is used there is good pressure for maybe 3 seconds then goes to zero. If you wait 5 seconds then the pressure builds back up and you can blow for 3 seconds. then repeat.
Jim, that’s typically the actions of a failing regulator. If, when you start using air with say, 100 PSI in the tank, the pressure gauge reading should blip a bit, then show a steady decline as air is used and the compressor can’t keep up. If the output drops to very low or zero pressure in a few seconds, the regulator itself is likely blocking the flow.
My compressor will not turn on I put a new pressure switch they have electricity to the switch and to the motor but it will not start no air intake
Make and model of compressor please. Is there a reset switch (usually red) on the motor? If so, push it in firmly. I am assuming that it was the same voltage pressure switch as the original and that it’s wired in correctly given that there is power flowing to the motor. Does this motor have a capacitor or two on it?
My 125PSI 21gal standup compressor will not pressure past 90PSI and will not automatically shut off but I’m guessing that is because it’s not pressuring all the way. I have checked the oil level and it is correct. The unit is only a little over a year old and is not dirty. Help…;.
Terry Orndorff
Terry. Not knowing the make and model makes distant diagnosis very difficult. Off the cuff I’d say you’ve probably got a valve failure or gasket failure in the pump head, assuming your pump has these devices. No way I can tell. If you look at the pages about common problems for compressors founc on this site (linked from the nav bar and home page), the issue you ask about has pages of ideas of things to check.
I’m desperate to figure out the make/model of my compressor so I can figure out the right amount of oil to put into it.
There are only a few markings (compressor was my neighbor’s growing up in the 90’s, he gave it to my dad, my dad gave it to me)
Half of me wants to toss it and get a newer one, but it’s a beautiful old compressor, so if I can keep it going, it seems fun.
Attached are pictures of any/all markings I could find.
Here’s what I found:
3314-k (on the air intake)
S-501 (on the fly wheel side of the air compressor pump)
AB 117 (on the fly wheel)
If for some reason you decide to toss the old girl aim for the back of my truck!! 😆🤣🤣
Hey there, did you ever manage to find anything out about this? I just acquired one a couple days ago and am in the much the same situation you are.
I have a 8 gallon Kobalt portable air compressor and the manifold broke right at the quick disconnect/connect and I am having a hell of a time find were to order the part or find the part. I can find a picture of the part but I can’t were to get it at.
As my granddad always said improvise… But honestly 30 or 40 years ago things were built to last and if something was to break it usually could be fixed!! Today’s tools and equipment are made not to last and you unfortunately have to replace the entire unit!! This is absolutely done so the consumer suffers. And the manufacturers make out ten fold!! They basically enjoy screwing the little guys but lie to your face saying that they’re items are built to last and they apologize for your inconvenience!! Blah blah blah!! Best of luck man! If anyone can tell ya how to fix it it’s the people of this awesome website!
Jeff!!
Steve, if you cannot find the complete manifold, you’re pretty much out of luck, and you’ll join the crowd of users of lower cost compressors with limited parts supply.
If you browse “replacement regulator manifold for small air compressor” you’ll find a bunch. If one of them isn’t close to yours, you may be into making your own using brass fittings commonly available from decent plumbing supply houses.
What you end up with may look odd, but building your own to duplicated the flow paths of the existing manifold will work, and then, you’ll always be able to get spares for it, though it’s doubtful that a brass fitting would crack and break like a cast part does. Good luck.
I added a comment to the “Does My Compressor Need a New Pressure Switch” page earlier this morning and received an email earlier this afternoon stating that my comment was approved. Unfortunately, my comment hasn’t appeared on the website yet – in fact, the last posted message on that particular page is from November 11, 2020. I’ve also added “www.fix-my-compressor.com/feed/” to my RSS feeder and have received no updates. I’m new to this site and am wondering is this common or am I not looking in the right place for responses to my question/comment?
Hi Garry. I don’t know why you are having trouble seeing it. I went to the page, and my response is there under your original comment. If you find the original, you click on the “see replies” link at the bottom of yours.
As to the feed… since the feed is automatically generated by the site when a change takes place, I have no idea why your reader isn’t getting notified. Sorry.
For replies to a comment you made, the system should send you the email saying when it’s approved, and in that email is typically a link to your comment and the response.
http://fix-my-compressor.com/does-my-compressor-need-a-new-pressure-switch/
The comment prior to yours on this page is dated November 9 2020, and was replied to on the 10th. It’s people who manage the comments on this site, and they aren’t always available to respond as quickly as all would like.
Hello, again I forgot to add a picture of my Mastercraft Canadian Tire Store Air Compressor. The black object between the two gauges is the pressure regulator, It’s in a Manifold. It does not reduce the pressure. Can this be fixed?
Paul. I have removed your other post.
The photo is small, but it helps. Thanks. Both gauges appear to be registering the same pressure. Is this correct?
Is this problem new, or is this a new compressor and the problem has been there since you powered it up?
Please look under the plate with the gauges, regulator knob and outlet couplers. Which side is the tank gauge, and which side is the regulator gauge, when looking at your photo?
It’s a compressor that I’ve taken out of a 4 years storage. If memory serves me right the tank air is on the left. As the manifold is feed from the left. The model number is 058-7949-6, Mastercraft.
If both gauges are showing the same tank pressure, and you rotate the knob, and the regulator gauge does not change, it suggests that the regulator has failed.
You did push down or pull up on the regulator knob to ensure that it’s engaged with the shaft inside of the regulator housing?
Mmm push Down or Pull up ! No I did not do that….i just screwed it down…or up..! I will check that. So you pull or push on th knob..they all work like that ? Even the one made in China ? After reading up on mastercraft compressors. I found out they are made in China.
Some, but not all regulators, have a “lock” function whereby the operator either pulls up on a locking ring, pulls up on the knob, or the reverse. I don’t know if this regulator does.
I believe you’ll find though that it’s bunged up with sitting in storage. You may need to pull it apart to check the internals.
After READING…the manual…yes I know read the manual. This regulator does not need to be push or pulled. I took it apart CAREFULLY. This is what I noticed. The white plastic pressure plate does not have a straight spigot/ needle it’s bent. Therefore it cannot push down on bottom mecanism. Presently no air pressure on either quick connection, After the regulator both quick connect are feed by regulator. I removed the bottom mecanisme, spring and rubber plug. I get pressure on the quick connections….so is there a place for the guts of a regulator.
Hey Paul. Good on you for tearing it down and finding the problem.
As to parts, essentially, no. The Mastercraft distributor sells almost no after market parts for their compressors. You might use your browser to search for “manifold regulator parts” and get lucky where you are, but all I was able to find is replacement manifolds.
Other options… buy brass fittings to cobble up your own manifold and replace the one there. In the new one you could add a general purpose regulator which are available and fairly low cost.
Or, use your browser to find all the air compressor manifolds that you can, and drill down to determine if one of them might fit in the space you’ve got.
The compressed air doesn’t care what if flows through. If you can plumb a manifold off the tank, and air gets to the pressure switch, to the regulator, and to the couplers, whatever manifold you make or use will work. It might be ugly… but then, who cares?
Thanks for the info. I will keep surfing. Presently i have it setup with no regulator. I removed the needle valve so all I get os tank pressure. I will setup a regulator on the line coming out of the compressor for now. Until I can fix ôr replace the manifold.
Or…. put a plug in the manifold where the regulator was, remove the couplers, and put an in-line regulator off the tank feed, plug the couplers one into each, and you now have two air supplies on which you can dial different pressures. About a $30 or so fix.
Cheers, and a pleasure chatting with you.
That’s one option I did not think of. thanks.
Central pneumatic 2.5hp 125psi 21gal air compressor keeps blowing house circuit breaker. When turned on the compressor sputters about 5 times and then will blow the house circuit. It is plugged in directly to outlet and have run it 2 or 3 times before with no issue. Compressor is out of warranty but only used 2 times. Please help!
If the location of use hasn’t changed, and the power supply hasn’t changed, then the symptoms suggest an over-draw of current when the compressor is starting, Micheal. This might be corroborated by emptying the air completely out of the tank, and then starting the compressor again. If the compressor start cap is only starting to fail, the compressor may start and run.
Regardless, I believe the symptom is likely a failing capacitor, and you’ll want to check it. See the page on this site about how to do that.
Hello,
I have a Craftsman Air Compressor 9191752501. The pressure switch 58J5 went bad and can’t find a replacement
Richard, I’m sure an off brand pressure switch will work. I cannot find a photo of the existing one, however. Please add a comment with a few photos, one from the side, one from the bottom, one from the top, and one with the cover removed. We should be able to find you a replacement. Thanks.
I have a craftsman air compressor model no 919.152830 can’t find cillander parts sears says they are deleted are there eny comp parts
Hard to say for sure, Dave, as we don’t know what parts. Maybe you could take some photos of the parts you need, and upload them in a comment replying to this thread?
I have a DeVelbliss model PRFB5020VP-1 and the discharge line from the head of the compressor to the air tank valve snapped. I have been trying in vane to find a way to fix it after paying $150 for it. I ordered nylon pneumatic easy push hose and connections, but I have been unable to find the brass fittings for the head and where it connects to the pressure valve on the top of the tank. Do you have any suggestions on where I might find these or a work around so I can get this compressor up and working?
You can try: https://www.dvsystems.com/ whom are still selling and servicing Devilbiss compressors. By the way, they are now owned by Gardner Denver. Success? If not, take the entire assembly, including the fittings at both ends, and visit a high end industrial plumbing supply house or auto parts store, and they’ll likely be able to craft one to fit. Let us know, K?
I have a Craftsman air compressor Model No. 919.152813 that utilizes an A.O. Smith AC motor S# K56A28B23 that starts up but under pressure stalls the motor resulting in a humming sound.
It build to about 25 psi before the motor bogs down and stalls.
I have the compressor plugged into 220v 4 prong outlet on it’s own circuit with a 30amp breaker. I’m using a 3ft dry cord from home depot with the neutral wire capped off. I have replaced the pressure switch/unloader valve, the check valve, and both valve plate assemblies. I checked both capacitors and visual they don’t seem to be bad. Can anyone help me out?
Hi Hunter. Looking at the caps for obvious problems like leaking or blown cover is good. However, a cap can be bad and not show it, either. You don’t say that you’ve actually tested the caps, and I believe you need to do so. There’s a page about how on this site. Please check them and advise the results. Thanks.
Thank you for the quick answer! Excuse my ignorance but what do you mean “The caps” or “Blown cover”? I’m new to air compressor repair so instead of making learning by mistake I thought I would give your site a try!
The caps are the capacitors. They need to be tested. See how on this site. In terms of “blown cover”, sometimes when caps fail, they overheat, and expand, and there develops a bulge in the covering. Good luck.
Thank you! So both caps are functioning correctly. I tested them on one of cheap multimeters using just the ohm setting and my multimeter that has the ability to test capacitance. Everything is aligned with the two caps specs. Now what do I do?
Hello again. All of the checks you’ve done have, essentially, indicated that the problem is being caused by the electric motor itself, or, that you’ve got a mechanical malfunction in the pump, leading to an increasing motor load that stops the motor.
Would you be kind enough to upload a couple of photos of the compressor? Front, back, and if you can get any cover off that would be good.
Hello willyr. I REALLY appreciate you taking the time to help me solve this issue with my compressor. I uploaded a couple pics that you requested and a pic of the cylinder sleeve and piston ring. Please let me know if you need anymore pics.
Hunter. Thanks for the photos. I can now see that your Craftsman air compressor Model No. 919.152813 has two cylinders. That I didn’t know.to your earlier posting, you replacefd the valve plates. Did, in so doing, see if there is a valve where the line from cylinder one enters the head on cylinder two, and is that valve too OK?
willyr. You’re welcome. I went ahead and replaced both valve plate assy. which included cylinder 1 and 2. The valve plate included the plate with preinstalled valves and o-rings. The old valve plate assy. looked discolored or burnt and I wanted to replace both of them just to be on the safe side. I removed the tube outlet the ran from cylinder 1 and 2 but all that was there was the nut and the o-ring. No valve to be found. The tube just enters into a cavity in the cylinder head on both cylinders.
Well OK then. All mechanical parts being good, no binding when operating, no valve blockages… then it’s pretty much got to be the motor, hmmmm? Good luck.
hi can you please help .have not got a clue what make hoping some one will know .my problem is the motor stalls at 3 bar the actual compressor jams ..let some air out and it’s possible to restart ..
Alan, lots of good tips on what you are looking for already exist. Start by following the appropriate links from this page: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/ Thanks.
thanks for the quick reply ..my problem don’t seem to be here but for the cost i will try a new check valve as the tank builds pressure quickly and holds pressure and i am trying to avoid a head strip down lol
My money’s on 1) valve failing 2) mechanical binding 3) maybe check valve, but I don’t think so.
My Husky compressor will turn on and charge up to 150 psi. Once I start to use it and get it down to 90 psi my compressor will not recharge the air it needs to keep going. What do you think is going on? I’ve had to deplete it completely and then restart the compressor for it to fill back up again.
http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-wont-re-start-when-air-is-used/
Hi.. .I have a 60 gallon Kobalt compressor that is having problems…
Pressure switch and unloader valve are new.
Symptoms:
It starts fine and although gauge does not read pressure in the tank, it seems to be building some.
When it reach 20 you can feel the pump starts to work harder and when it gets to 30 PSI, the motor cant push it anymore and the velt stars to slip…
When turning it off… all the ir is being bleed through the unloader valve until everything is empty.
Would you think a faulty check valve could be the problem?
Hi Emmanuel. Yes indeed, the first thing to do is empty all air, remove the tank check valve, clean it so it works properly or replace it, then test the compressor again. Add a comment here with results if you get the chance. Thanks.
Hello, I’m a uni student and need some guidance for my grad project. Is it possible to use a compressor or pump to pull carbon dioxide gas from an incinerator (after cooling process) and then inject that gas it into a tank? Any help is welcome, thank you!
While your application is well beyond my skill set, a compressor is simply a pump. If the intake of the compressor is pulling CO2 instead of free air, the compressor doesn’t care. It will pull in gas and compress it into the tank. How you ensure that you only pull in CO2, and in enough volume for the compressor is up to how you plumb the installation.
Please do add a comment as the project unfolds. I, and others visiting this site, would be interested in updates. Good luck.
I have an old MF Master Elite Compressor. I’m in search of 2 tiny screws that secure the pressure gauge cover to the gauge itself or a completely new gauge. Also, the brass valve (see photo) leaks when I shut off the compressor. I don’t know what it is and was hoping someone could identify it – and possibly know where to get a new one.
Thank you,
David Latch
This is/was a MasterCraft compressor. Not sure if it was available anywhere in the U.S., but certainly available in Canada via the retail outlet Canadian Tire.
While appearing to be a better quality than their products are today, this was still a fairly low cost compressor. Given that, and given that there aren’t parts available for it that I know of, finding two screws for a gauge might be impossible. If not impossible, will most likely cost more than the gauge is worth.
Use your browser to search for “air compressor pressure gauges” and you’ll find lots, of varying qualities and prices. Buy the most expensive or least, knowing that in time all will wear out.
This might be a dumb question but I cannot find any information about this online. My replacement capacitors are slightly smaller than the originals which cause them to be a little loose under the cover housing. If the caps vibrate and the 2 spade connectors touch the metal cover housing, can I be electrocuted? My spade connectors are not covered. Are they suppose to have a protective cover or something?
Not so dumb. Safety first! It were me I would sure isolate the spade connectors so that they cannot touch anything they aren’t supposed to. Yup, even if the compressor is off, if touching the cap housing, the capacitor can deliver a jolt. Shouldn’t be an issue with the smaller cap as long as the specs are similar to the original, in terms of function, but you sure do want to make sure no bare electrical anything can touch metal or anything else it’s not supposed to touch.
I just purchased and installed a 034 Sanborn pressure switch on my compressor. When I turn the switch to the off position, the unloader valve stays open and leaks all of the pressure out of the tank. Is there an adjustment for this?
Consider where the air is coming from when the unloader leaks. As you point out, it’s the tank. What’s supposed to keep the air in the tank when the unloader is open? The tank check valve. I suspect yours is leaking or has failed.
I picked up an old air compressor pump, tank and motor last night. Pump is a Buckeye ball bearing model v20-6c serial 6266. im looking for any info i can get on this pump. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks, mike
BRA7180V (7.5HP/80 gallon/175psi) air compressor. What is the little lever on the backside of the pressure switch box? I just picked up the air compressor and had my electrician hook everything up. It works great but I’m puzzled about the little lever on the back of the pressure switch box. It can be moved to the vertical or horizontal position–but I’m hesitant to mess with it. I do notice the pressure switch shuts off at 150psi and I believe mine is rated to 175psi. Any guidance since I don’t have a manual?
Please take a photo of the side and back of the pressure switch where the “switch” is and upload them in a comment here, if you would. Thanks.
Does my twin cylinder oil free Pro Air II 6 hp 60 gal. made by DeVilbis need regular lubing? It’s in a soundproof box, but starting to get louder. Cant get to it unless I dismantle the box, so am asking for specific places it might need lubricant. What oil is recommended for that?
Thanks!
There are so many models of this air compressor out there that we cannot determine which is yours. Please remove the cover from the pump, and add a comment with a photo from each side of the pump.
I have a Sullivan d1850 air compressor while using it it suddenly lost air pressure and the motor revved up freely
I have a 2003 Porter-Cable consumer compressor (model CPF234005-2). The regulator adjustment seems to have frozen, at around 50 psi and I cannot change it to get air gun pressures. The tank gets to full pressure. As it happened, my 18 ga nailer also failed, so I purchased a combo kit. The regulator seems to be part and parcel of the manifold, and a replacement seems to be over $100. Is there a cheaper and safe way to rig a regulator, gauge and outlet so I can use this as a spare compressor?
Many Thanks
David
Possibly if you can remove just the regulator. Seeing the manifold and where the regulator is in it would certainly help.
Or, use off-the-shelf brass fittings from a good plumbing supply shop… adapters, connectors, tees etc. to rebuild the manifold from scratch. Start at where the air exits the tank, and build out from there. It’ll likely look like heck, but if you emulate what’s there, it’s work. The compressed air doesn’t care!
When I fill the Compresser with air. I take the hose off the coupler. All the air comes out of the coupler. What is wrong. How do I fix this.. The Compresser is A, Central Pneumatic. Oil Air Compresser. 8 gallon 2 HP 125 PSI. Please…
Well hi there Carol. Your question has prompted a new page on this site, so thanks for taking the time to post. I hope this page helps you fix your compressor.