Bostitch air compressors is also in the business of hand tools. Why sell air compressors?
I believe that Bostitch focuses on the hand tool business, including a broad range of air tools, and they offer Bostitch air compressors to augment the sale of air tools. If you are in the market for an air tool and need an air compressor to run it, why not get a compressor from the same brand? Makes a one stop stop if you have issues with either the air tools or the compressor.
Ever wonder about how the name Bostitch came about? How about the Boston Wire Stitcher Company. Over the years the name was contracted to Bostitch.
The thing is Bostitch, like so many other brands of air compressors, are not made by Bostitch. They are private-labeled for them with the Bostitch markings, and sold through the Bostitch outlets.
That they don’t make them makes the supply of spare parts, and the knowledge to specify what spare part is needed, as suspect. The Bostitch air compressors are sold through all the big box stores North America wide. Ever seen any spare parts for the Bostitch compressor pump or electric motor at any of these outlets? Not likely.
Lots of used Bostitch air compressors can be found on all on-line auction sites.
Bostitch air compressors parts and service
But if you need parts or service, where do you go?
You go here: https://servicenet.bostitch.com/
It is interesting to note that this service outlet supports Bostitch, Porter Cable, Black & Decker and DeWalt compressors and tools. Makes you think they are all connected, doesn’t it. Well they are. It seems all are part of the Black & Decker organization.
In any case, you have an issue with a Bostitch compressor you, so far, cannot solve. Post your question as a comment below. Maybe we can help, or certainly, other Bostitch air compressor users may be able to.
Make sure you include your model number, and a photo too, if you would.
Do you own and use a Bostitch air compressor? Please have a look at the questions posted, and if you can offer a suggestion, add a comment.
Other pages on this site to do with Bostitch compressors include:
I am having trouble with a bostitch unloader valve Amazon.com: Bostitch OEM AB-9614054 replacement air compressor unloader valve CAP2000P-OF : Tools & Home Improvement
The valve does not close during operation – neither during pump running or pump stopping.
When the pump is stopped there is no check valve leak (no hiss)
When the pump is running, the valve does not close and continues to vent to atmosphere
The leak comes through the tiny vent on the side of the unloader valve
The unloader valve pin on the top is always retracted. I do not know under what condition the pin extends; on testing with a toothpick I am able to push from inside the valve and the pin extends about 1-2 mm.
I presume the pin extends under sufficient air pressure from the unloading hose, but there is no logical way this could happen if the valve is already venting to atmosphere.
It appears that the spring inside is a compression spring, so it will always “push” the unloader pin into retraction (open position)
The end result is that the tank builds pressure very slowly. When I plug the vent hole on the unloader valve with a finger, pressure builds up very quickly and effectively.
The air compressor is otherwise a normal 8L set up with an oilless piston. I checked all the fittings and check valve and pressure switch; all working fine except for the unloader valve attached to the pressure switch.
Comparing with other pressure switches, some use a brass one, which is a Schneider Electric Square D type: Square D by Schneider Electric 9049A56 Pressure Switch, Release Valve: Air Compressor Accessories: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
I’m not sure what’s going on because I ordered a new Bostitch unloader valve and the new one is exactly the same as the old one – do I have two defective units or are they both working the way they should?
TLDR the unloader valve is leaking only when the pump is running. It seems to be stuck open. The new one is also behaving the same way and I do not know if this is normal behaviour.
Hi FixmyCompressor,
I have a problem with a 8L home compressor that is a typical set up.
Small 8L tank, 1.5HP oilless piston
Piston pumps into tank through check valve and also has connection to unloader valve at pressure switch
I have isolated the problem to a leaking unloader valve. The style is the Bostitch black molded plastic one: AB-9614054
The unloader valve is leaking only when the compressor is running. When the compressor is stopped, the unloader valve does not leak. The check valve has been cleaned and is not leaking through the unloader tube.
I have also looked at the pressure switch diaphragm; there are no holes in it.
On inspection, the unloader valve has a brass pin on the top that is usually retracted. When pushing inside the valve mechanism; the pin comes out, held in by a spring. Letting go allows the pin to retract back. When I ordered a new one from bostitch, I found the mechanism is exactly the same. So I’m not sure what’s wrong with the valve.
Comparing with other unloader valves such as the Schneider Electric Square D (Square D by Schneider Electric 9049A56 Pressure Switch, Release Valve: Air Compressor Accessories: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement), these other valves have pins protruded in the resting position, as opposed to the behaviour of the Bostitch one.
On inspection of the pressure switch, the interaction between the unloader valve pin versus the underside of the pressure switch itself is a bit hard to understand, considering the bostitch pin is retracted normally. It makes sense when the pin is protruded normally as with the Schneider Electric unloaders.
Switch hits pressure -> mechanism flips inside switch and depresses pin -> unloader valve opens -> vents head pressure to atmosphere
Switch falls below cut-in -> mechanism flips inside switch and releases pin to be free to extend -> unloader valve closes -> builds tank pressure, fed into tank past check valve
I am at my wits end
TLDR – Bostitch unloader valve behaves differently to other unloader valves and is not able to close during active phase of the pump/filling. Does not leak during inactive phase of the pump.
Hi. I have a 5-year old lightly used Bostitch BTFP02012 air compressor that developed a leak in the vicinity of the outlet tube a few weeks ago. It appeared the hose could have been the culprit because it had a small bit of dry surface cracking and when I pressed the hose up or down the ‘hissing’ would stop. Maybe it was just superficial, but I replaced that with a piece of new 1/4″ 300PSI rated air hose and screw type hose clamps.
After replacing the hose I tested and filled to 150 psi and it held air with no hissing and no loss of pressure for two days. But then when I used it, I found that when it drops to 120 psi it now only fills a little bit – to maybe 122 psi – and then shuts off.
Before, when it dropped to 120 it would fill to 150. So now, with any kind use, it pretty much cycles continuously at about120 psi. BUT, it did fill to 150 psi right after I replaced the hose, and it still does fill to 150 if I depressurize the tank. It wasn’t doing this before my repair, so I think I probably bumped or loosened or jiggled something while working on the hose, but I don’t see anything out of place.
It wasn’t doing this before my repair. Any idea what I might have done? Thanks!
The the one symptom followed another after the first was corrected doesn’t mean for sure that they are connected.
It now shuts off a 123 PSI. The key is, it shuts off, but is it shutting off at the pressure switch, or is it shutting off for another reason? You’ll want to use a meter on the motor side of the pressure switch to see if power is still flowing to the motor after the compressor shuts off. If it’s not, it’s likely the pressure switch.
Please check and advise.
Thanks for the reply! FYI, I got by with filling the tires and blowing out a couple things with the compressor as it was, but it will of course need to be fixed before doing any kind of project with it. I’m a casual user of this tool and apologize for not thanking you for your time sooner. I’ll report in and keep you posted on how things come along when I finally do get to fixing this thing. Thanks again!
You are welcome. Add a comment to this thread when you’ve done the checks.
Hi I have a Bostitch pancake compressor having trouble with the pressure builds pressure at first but drops when useing it Like example when useing a blower right when I Press the lever on the blower it drops to 30 psi and also if I’m nailing really fast doest keep up nails sticking out if I nail slow it’s ok Theres no leaks At all and don’t think it’s the pressure switch because it turns off and on when refilling the tank just needed some tips on what you think
Hi John. Saw your other post, just left this one up. Sometimes we aren’t actually in front of the computer all the time :-).
Anyway, the symptoms sound very much like a regulator problem. If the regulator cannot flow enough air from the tank at the selected pressure, and the downstream air hose wants air to flow to the air tool, that very rapidly depletes the air in the line, and the pressure drops as the regulator blocks flow from the tank.
I believe your compressor is a COMP 6.0G 150PSI UMC Model ID # BTFP02012 and if you go to the Bostitch site following this link you can find out, and once you know if it’s a Type 1 or Type 2 of this model, you can also ask support about regulator issues and repair.
Not sure you received my initial question so here’s text to go with photos I sent. The pressure switch on my Bostitch CWC200ST disintegrated so I purchased a look alike one from Amazon. It’s a 4 port 80/120 cheapie. After installing it, when I started up it ran good, shut off at 120. But then all the fittings on the pressure switch started leaking air (badly). I started tightening but still leaking like crazy, around threads. Used dope of course. I’m afraid to tighten too much because it’s an aluminum casting. I pulled the check valve and cleaned that. I can’t figure out what’s going on. I’m mechanically able but compressor dumb. Hope you can help!
I saw the earlier post but could not relate it to any earlier one, Robert.
If the compressor stops, and air is bleeding out of fittings on the pressure switch… where is the air coming from? The only place on the compressor that has stored compressed air when the compressor is not running is the air tank. How can that air be bleeding up and out of the pressure switch? It HAS to be a leaking check valve. There is no other place the air can be coming from. If you cleaned the check valve and that didn’t stop the leaks, then it’s time to replace it, as far as I’m concerned. Good luck.
What about where the pressure switch is connected to the tank? There’s a short line going from the tank into the pressure switch. Isn’t that where it senses the pressure in the tank?
Good thought, but no, Robert. The “pipe” from the tank to the pressure switch has to be fully open so the pressure switch can “read” the pressure in the tank. If there are a host of leaks in the fittings in the switch, I suppose that could be the issue.
The “cheapie” switch may have a fitting issue, but normally it’s where the line connects to the fitting in the switch, not normally the threads of the fitting.
Are you saying that even after pulling the fittings, doping them, and reinserting them, there’s air leaking from the threads? Did you use a “soap test”? Thanks.
Yes and yes to your questions. I feel like I’m making some basic mistake here but I don’t know what it is. I think I’m going to get a new switch and check valve and give it all another try. I’ll keep you posted!
Is there be a mismatch between fittings and threads, then? A metric thread can accept most of an NPT male, but the threads will not seal properly. Possible? That or just a crappy threading of the boss holes in the compressor.
Anyway, thanks for the update
Good luck.
I think you’re right, I probably have a thread mismatch situation. It’s really all that makes sense. Trouble is the problem is difficult to solve, and I’m not sure there’s anywhere to get metric threaded fittings around. Even the flare fittings are metric. I may have to retire this unit.
Before your do, a Google search will show many sources of metric fittings. Might be cost advantageous to chase them down rather than buy a new compressor?
Bostitch pancake compressor just started this. Comes up to pressure then releases air somewhere then the compressor cycles back on.
Can you help
Be good to know where the air is coming / leaking out. In all cases like this I suggest the first thing to do is dump all the air, remove the pipe from the pump head where it connects to the tank, and make sure that the tank check valve is working. If it is not, air will leak out of the tank every time the compressor stops.
Have a Bostitch6 gal pancake compressor when you plug it in to receptacle nothing happens. Is there a reset switch or a fuse that would keep pump from running
Likely, but there could be other reasons. Please have a look at this link, and do the checks noted on the page. Add a comment if you’re still stuck when you’re done.
My neighbor gave me his old Stanley Bostitch “The Builders Series” compressor. I cannot find any model # markings anywhere. With some internet digging I believe it is a CWW150 model. I got the 1.5hp electric motor running and am now working on the pump. Again, the pump has no info anywhere on it. I am concerned because it needs an air intake filter and I have no idea which one to get. I have included a pic of what I have of the air intake filter. At wits end. Any info would be great. Thanks.
Tony, your post was moved to the Bostitch page and, in the transition, the image of your intake filter was lost. Sorry, please upload another.
As to which air intake filter to get, measure the port size, and make sure that whichever make or model of compressor intake filter you acquire has an intake opening at least as big as that intake port, preferably a little bigger, and I expect you’ll be good to go.
My bostitch pancake compressor would not shut off at 150 psi as it should and blows the safety valve.
I replaced the pressure switch and it continued to do the same thing.
The cutout /cut in is 150/120.
I tested the new switch and it would not open at 150 psi.(it states on the switch the cutout is 150). I felt i had a defective switch and got a new one. Same thing.
The compressor will not cut out at 150 with any of the 3 switches that were on it.
If i pull either of the two wires off of the switch the compressor will stop. I am befuddled. What else could it be on such a simple system?
Here are some pictures.
Tim, I was working on the theory that your compressor had a larger, multi-wire, pressure switch, as opposed to one that simply closes and opens a circuit as the pressure changes in the tank. As you point out these are basic compressors with basic controls.
The symptoms of the compressor problem all continue to point to the pressure switch being the issue. And, two separate suppliers off Amazon were likely selling the same sourced pressure switches meaning that if it was a bad batch, both new ones could have been from that same source.
Do you know anyone that has a CAP 2000 that’s working? If so, “borrow” the pressure switch from that one and see what happens with it on your compressor. If the pipeline is full of failing pressure switches from the same off-shore factory, buying a new one may not even solve the problem if it comes from the same batch.
I agree, it HAS to be the pressure switch.. The two I got from Amazon looked different but,…. I am going get the factory part and see how that works.
I will let you know.
Thanks
TIm
Hi Tim. I moved your post to the Bostitch compressor page (after I fixed the commenting issue – it seems to work OK now).
The Bostitch is not shutting off at 150 PSI like it should. I get that. What I don’t know and need to is at what pressure the PRV cracks open? Just over 150 PSI, at 170 PSI, what?
I ask as none of the components on this compressor are of really high precision quality. It is possible that a compressor with a 150 PSI cut out might show 155 PSI on the gauge before it shuts off, for example. It may not be a pressure switch issue, but a gauge that’s off a bit, which is typical for one that costs about $1.00 to make and is sold for under $10.00 new.
The same applies to the pressure relief valve. It may be correctly set to crack open at 170 PSI for example, but the gauge may be showing it cracking at 166 PSI or something like that.
So please, at what gauge pressure is the PRV on this Bostitch air compressor cracking open?
The safety valve blows at around 172 according to the gauge. the adjustable “out” pressure reads within a pound or two of the main gauge AFTER i adjust it to its highest setting.
Darn, I was hoping that the PRV was cracking at 155 PSI or so, which is within the margin of error of cheap gauges. By pulling the wire off you are effectively emulating the switch, and cutting power to the motor, and it stops. That makes sense.
The problem was created as I understand it when one day the pressure in the tank blew through the normal cut out until the PRV cracked at 172 PSI so you acquired a new switch. The original pressure switch had failed requiring you to buy a new switch with the same pressure settings and voltage range and install it. Right so far?
Please double check the terminals in the new switch to see if, by chance, you’ve got black or white wires inadvertently wired to the wrong terminal. There should be one each from the power cord attached to the line / power side of the switch, and one of each from the motor attached to the the motor or load side of the switch. Make sure the ground wire is firmly attached to the ground terminal too, will you?
Wired correctly? Then are all new switches from the same source. I can only surmise that you’re into a bad batch of switches, unless… and this is a stretch, there is something in the nipple from the tank to the pressure switch that is stopping the switch from “seeing” the tank pressure.
First, you were right so far..
Both wires on the terminals of the switch are black. I have followed both and they are hooked up according to the pictorials on parts suppliers web site. I switched the wires on your suggestion, no go. Good idea well worth a try tho.
Ground, nice and tight.
The switches are both from Amazon, but from different sellers.
Checked the pressure getting to the switch a few days ago. Getting a bunch of pressure.
I am stumped.
.
I have a Bostitch 6gal air tank when it gets to 150psi it releases the air down to a 100psi and keeps running what do I do to fix it?
Please tell me from where the air is being released, Russell. Is it the PRV, for example? Where?
I have Bostitch 150 psi 6 gallon oil less air compressor. When I turn on the compressor the tank fills and the regulator registers the air pressure. When I connect the tool I want to use to the discharge connector directly and pull the trigger air will come out of the tool itself. When I connect the tool to the end of the air hose and pull the trigger you can hear the air die out almost immediately.
I am hoping that you can confirm whether I need the entire manifold regulator assembly that i found before i buy it since its about half the cost of a new air compressor. I appreciate your help and I think this website blog was very helpful.
Kyle, when you insert the connector on the air tool directly into the discharge coupling, you say you have air. Does the tool run? Can you determine if it is running correctly? If so, and when you plug the same tool connector into the coupler on the air line, and you lose pressure, that points either to a connector / coupler mis-match on the air line, or, something is plugging to the hose. If the air tool dies when plugged directly into the discharge coupler on the compressor, then that suggests that the regulator is failing.
I have a new bostich compressor that keeps running, the out psi is stops at 90 and the other about 80 but keeps running and neither gauge goes up?
Make sure the tank drain is shut. Make sure there are no leaks. Have a look at this page: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-will-not-build-pressure/
All else fails, if it’s new, take it back and ask for one that works.
The image shows a Bostitch Textor twin cylinder air compressor model HHG-12.
I have one of these and would like to know firstly about lubrication of the compressor and where to get more information so I can restore and maintain it properly. `
Is it possible that your compressor is a Bostitch Textron compressor? We did see one listing on line for this model, same image in fact, but do not have any further information except that the cut in is supposed to be 115 PSI and off at 150 PSI.
As to maintaining it, drain the tank. Examine the liquid for rust and particles, which may suggest a weakened tank wall. We cannot see from the image if this compressor has an oil sump, oil fill port or dipstick. If it does not, you don’t need to be concerned about adding oil. Clean off the compressor, including carefully cleaning air intake to the motor and any cooling fins on the pump. Remove and clean the intake filter. Start it up, let it run up to 30 PSI and shut it down. Listen and look for air leaks. Drain the tank again. Start and run up to 40 PSI. Repeat, this time pulling and pushing on the PRV. Use a soft rubber mallet and tap firmly – but not hard – all over the tank watching for easily indented areas which would suggest a weakened tank wall. Any tank weldments need to be paid special attention to. You cannot be sure of the safety of any old compressor tank without a hydraulic pressure test of the tank. Be aware of that. All good. Run up the tank pressure in increments to be ensure no leaks develop. Eventually you’ll get to cut out pressure. Make sure the compressor stops there. Then open the tank drain and drop the pressure back to cut in to make sure the pressure switch works properly. Examine the gauges as they do fail over time. Keep it clean, don’t over use it, and if it is oil lubed, change the oil and keep the sump full to the sight glass or dip stick level.
I have a Bostitch Model CAP60PB-OF COMPRESSOR THAT stopped sending air to the hose.
It shows pressure in the tank but I need to push very hard on the regulator cap to get it to pass air thru to the hose. The locking ring threads are ok but should the exterior cap also have threads that allow it to turn in to reduce the pressure and engage the diaphragm?
I need to press the cap down real hard to get air out of the hose.
Howdy Ralph. It sure sounds like a regulator malfunction to us. Consider having a look at this page for some more information. http://fix-my-compressor.com/only-a-short-burst-of-air/ and this one too: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressed-air-will-not-come-out-of-the-air-hose/.
I have a bostitch cap1580wb that is giving me a headache. The initial problem was that air would continue to drain from the unload valve while the pressure switch was set to auto. It would not stop releasing pressure. Then when the pressure got low enough the motor would try to start again but then fail and trip a breaker. I have replaced the pressure switch but have now found a new problem. The replacement switch had a lower cut off psi which I did not think would be a problem but as I have found now the compressor just keeps running. Since this is an older machine I have not been able to find any information on how to resolve this issue. Please help before I loose my noodle.
Interesting, when we check and see what type of compressor you have, the Bostitch part number you provided returns a gasoline powered air compressor as shown below?
Regardless, the original compressor problem was likely caused by a leaking tank check valve.
When you say the current problem is a lower cut off PSI yet the compressor keeps running? A lower PSI setting on the pressure switch should mean that the compressor turns off faster. If the pressure in the tank never gets to the cut out pressure setting however, that does not sound like a pressure switch problem, rather, it suggests you have a pump problem. Likely a valve or gasket failure, or both.