Any of you folks ever heard of a company called Grainger?Are you looking for some industrial pneumatic products? Are you looking for Speedaire air compressors?
Grainger distributes almost everything related to industrial applications in their nation-wide stores and in their massive on-line presence.
The air compressor brand Speedaire is Grainger’s own, though they also sell many other compressor brands as well, though only the Speedaire air compressor is the brand they have manufactured for their own distribution and sold to other distribution companies to offer.
The smallest Speedaire compressor we have found is a .9 HP, 120 volt tire compressor putting out 115 PSI at a massive flow of 1.7 CFM. The largest electric air compressor in the Speedaire air compressor family that we could find is the 10 HP, two stage (2 cylinder pumps) unit delivering about 34 CFM at maximum pressure and shown in the image below.
Unfortunately, no where on their specifications for this model does it show what the maximum pressure output is. We expect it to be in the 150 PSI range, but cannot say for certain.
That’s a nice range of electric air compressors, suggesting that Grainger has a Speedaire for the home and garage, mid-sized workshops, and even some large manufacturing plants using a goodly amount of compressed air.
What about Speedaire support?
Grainger has been in the Speedaire air compressor business for more than 30 years. Since they sell compressors under their brand, but manufactured by diverse companies over the years, getting part supplies for older Speedaire compressors might be tough.
The first thing you want to do is copy the model number from your Speedaire compressor and call Grainger’s spare parts support line which is currently at 1-800-472-4643. They have a pretty good support group and will be able to tell you quite quickly if you can get parts for your Speedaire air compressor from them. Oh, and you may have to listen to an ad when you first call. That sucks!
For older Speedaire compressors you may find, since Campbell Hausfeld made so many compressors for so many companies over the years, that your older Speedaire has spares available from Campbell Hausfeld. Call them at their current parts information line 1-800-543-6400 and ask, and you will need your compressor model number too.
Another source for older Speedaire air compressor parts is on-line forums etc. You’ll still need your compressor model number. Type “parts sources for Speedaire compressor xxxxxxx (x’s are your model number)” into your search browser and you be able to connect with older Speedaire parts from the search returns.
Grainger has been around a long time. They wouldn’t be in business today if they didn’t offer reasonable products at reasonable prices. Over the years, however, we feel that the quality of equipment has diminished since so much of the outsourcing is done in foreign lands, locations that cannot delivery the quality that was inherent with goods made in North America.
If you are considering a Grainger Speedaire air compressor purchase, do your homework. Ask the questions you should ask when you buy any big ticket item, questions such as:
- longest warranty available on the Speedaire compressor
- who fixes it under and out of warranty
- supply of spare parts
- turn around time of repairs under warranty
Are there replacement tanks for aircompressors. I have a Speedaire 5Z587D aircompressor,and it has developed a pin hole.
I need parts for a Speedaire Dayton 1Z420 compressor. Any ideas?
I have a 4B232B. With pump number 4B246A. It was set up to run a low pressure boiler system. Can I convert it to a standard style air compressor for garage use? The piping doesn’t look like my other speed aire, this unit only has a single line coming from the head to the tank. My other compressor has a second smaller hose going to the shut off. Any help would be appreciated.
The smaller line going to the shut off was likely the unloader. If the compressor works pumping air into a tank, using the air, and the compressor starts again at low pressure cut in, you’re good to go. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to install an unloader valve I expect.
I have a speedaire 3z322. I need a tank check valve. Any idea where or who to talk too?
If you google “parts for a Speedaire 3Z322” or “tank check valve for Speedaire 3Z322” you will find sources as I just did. Or, remove yours, measure the specs, and use any that are similar. There is nothing unique about that check valve that I can see. I don’t know where in the world you are, so you’ll want to find local sources I’m sure. Good luck.
I recently picked up a Speedaire 2z495 with a 1.5 hp motor. It came with some parts that Im pretty sure were either removed put in the wrong place. I have two questions:
1. The pressure switch lacks a fitting to connect to the check valve or pump. There is one pipe that goes from the pump (2z499) to the tank via a check valve and that’s it. Every other compressor Ive worked on has had another pipe to decompress the pump’s piston chamber. Is this normal for this compressor? If not. how would a 2nd pipe connect without going thru the pressure switch?
2. Can you tell me what the pictured fitting is and what is its purpose? (It is spring loaded underneath)
Thanks for your help and for the site in general.
Looks like unloader exhaust vent
I’m in need of a connecting rod for a Speedaire pump # 2Z498B. All indications this part no longer available by manufacturer or Grainger. Any idea if there is any substitute parts?
I have a model 39GC06 comp, gen, weld combo engine drive. My question is when it’s running in high idle for welding the air pressure release will pop and not reset. I’ve replace the valve but it still does this. Is there a fix or some adjustment that can be made to correct the issue or is it designed to do this? Thanks.
Understanding correctly; you are meaning the unloader lever and valve stem “release” will pop and not reset; which I would describe as unloader “chatter”.
In the event you are referring to “safety” pressure relief device; particularly on a “gas” driven pump if working pressures are altered at or exceeding maximum recommended operating pressure; in that case you may have a either have defective pressure relief valve which is generally fixed or in rare instances adjustable however the “safety” relief should be rated for maximum relief pressure not more than 10% over nominal system maximum operating pressure or 10% more then manufacturers maximum pump operating pressure specification! This is also not actually uncommon if the routine normal operation is outdoor in northern climate conditions were dirt, condensation, or system residue may occur from lack of routine drainage, or inspection.
You have misadjusted unloader, or preliminary differential adjustment. If the differential is over torqued at any time the check ball or primarily the seat may be damaged. This will cause air bypass the manual unloader stem on the “upper” range/pressure. With unit drained first back-off the outer range/unloader screw assembly fully, in turn this relieves all pressure on differential check ball and seat. You can also inspect the outer unloader plunger and spring assembly! Next perform preliminary differential adjustment by backing out the inner differential assembly, visually inspect check ball and seat for any noticeable damage or debris. The preliminary differential adjustment I generally use is screw inner (large nut) “differential assembly” is screwed in by “two finger” tight to zero lash. Technical terms “zero lash” meaning the differential check ball is fully seated when the differential screw is bottomed, and correctly seated. The two finger tight preloads check ball till it is fully seated. Once the differential screw is bottomed and preloaded with simple two finger light pressure; I generally turn the differential screw assembly an additional 15 degrees “maximum”, then hold and secure differential locknut. Next screw unloader valve & lever assembly in about 4- 5 turns once the threads have started and bring the outer range locknut down “snug”. If you can count four threads exposed above the outer range locknut you should be close. At this point start compressor and using only outer range adjustment while monitoring pressure I gradually advance range screw in 1/8 turn increments followed by brief pause (dependent on tank reservoir size and air displacement) till the desired nominal operating pressure is achieved. If the unloader sound like a machine gun popping rapidly; tighten “differential screw” an additional 15 degrees, hold and secure differential assembly”.
One last thought trying to visualize unloader plumbing in conjunction with combined accessory functions, and in some cases not every compressor pump design have full function head unloaders. If it does in your equipment; theoretically if your utilizing welder in high idle; the compressor circuit control pneumatic should be in hold (unload bypass) position! In that aspect I would first insure to isolate one mode at a time to insure your fault is not caused by bleed back pressure from plumbing at throttle control.
Key note: Always follow “Manufacturers Original Design Specification and Recommendations, and remember in most instances commercial equipment as such requires “Annual” Inspection. and or Certification required by law!
Alex, I’ve added a photo obtained at grainger.com of this compressor – generator – welder for folks that haven’t seen one. I hadn’t.
I am sorry too that I have no knowledge of engine driven generators. My thoughts are that the device that’s releasing is the throttle / unloader valve, and that it’s supposed to allow the motor to throttle down when air is not required, and presumably, when power is not needed for welding, so I’d focus on the unloader throttle valve itself as perhaps being the issue.
Anyone else have any info for Alex? Thanks.
i have a dayton dual speed aire compressor and one motor turns on and the other dont . What can be the problem? Who can fix this for me? please help im in new haven connecticut
Cathy, while the term “dual speed” means a motor operating at two different speeds depending on demand makes some sense, I don’t know, and cannot find, a Speedaire compressor that has two motors for one pump. If it has two pumps, each driven by a motor, that kind of makes sense, but isn’t anything I have seen. How about, in a comment, adding a couple of photos of it (click the camera icon to upload photos), along with the Speedaire model number if you can? Thanks.
I have a Speedaire I’m looking for parts for with no luck so far. Model 1-937. Sn R30015335.
Like yourself I guess Jim, we were unable to find any info on the Model 1-937 from Speedaire. Given that we have no idea what this compressor looks like, can you please add a comment telling us what parts you are looking for, and upload a few photos of the beast so that, perhaps, we might help you find the compressor parts you need?
Here are some pictures I found a date on the tank tag that said 1968 if that helps any.
Thanks. So what parts are you looking for?
Oh yeah sorry. I think right now a rebuild kit if possible. I didn’t get to dig into it or even try it yet. I was told it ran but only built 40 psi. Just trying to do some research till I dig into it.
Any sign of a model number on the pump, not the tank or on the compressor, just on the pump?
I was told today that is probably not the original pump. The only information I seen is the serial number and there are casting numbers on some parts. the cylinders have NR-14-6A on both of them
I cleaned the unit up today and the only numbers on the pump it’s self is a serial number and something casting part number
Googling the part numbers suggests that the pump may have been made by Champion Compressors. That or pull the pump apart and try to find the various rebuilt parts using the old as templates for sizes.
Speedaire 5Z403A 2 is the model I was trying to find a rebuild kit for the compressor pump, with no luck any help would be greatly appreciated.
I bought a speedaire 3Z395 1 1/2 hp . It doesn’t have a check valve or unloader . The pressure switch doesn’t have any unloader mechanism either . It pumps up to ~100 psi and shuts off but won’t restart because of the pressure on the head . Were these actually made like this ?
Barry, I can find no information on a Speedaire 3Z395, not even a photo, so I’ve no idea what the pump / unloader / pressure switch setup looks like. Would you please, as a comment here, add a photo of the compressor from both sides and if there is a cover over the pump and motor, another photo with the cover removed? Otherwise, I cannot help, though maybe there is someone out there with the Speedaire 3Z395 that can offer advice. Thanks.
Here’s the tag .
Barry
Thanks for taking the time to send in the pics, Barry. It sure helps to see the compressor folks are asking about.
Were Speedaire 3Z395 air compressors made like this… questionable, but I don’t know for sure. Maybe another owner of one can comment.
It sure appears that there is no unloader nor tank check valve. Without an unloader or a tank check valve to hold the air in the tank, it is doubtful that the compressor would restart under tank load without dumping the air over the piston.
You see the 6 bolts on the valve plate? What is the bolt to the right of them. That may be… just may be, a cold start valve which emulates the unloader, and if it is and it’s plugged, then that might account for the compressor unloading. If it is, then, I don’t see how the air stays in the tank, unless the fitting that the pump line to the tank connects to in the tank is a check valve. Can you remove that line and the fitting to check? If you try, dump the air first, for sure and I’d be surprised if you didn’t find a check valve as part of that whole fitting.
Here’s some pics .
Thanks , Barry
Any idea what the indicator is for full? I got one of these from my dad. I grew up with it, but have never been responsible for maintenece
I have a Speedaire compressor model 5f237a serial number 668733. Need a tank check valve for it.
The part is probably no longer available but is there a suitable replacement for it.
The top is a compression thread 5/8 inch OD. The threads into the tank are 3/4 OD.
It has a 3/8 ID hole in the side for connection to the unloaded valve on the switch.
Can send picture if it would help.
Hi Eric. Can we assume you’ve contacted the closes Grainger industrial distribution outlet? Speedaire is their brand and if they cannot help I’d be surprised.
Second, I just Google parts for a Speedaire 5f237a air compressor, and according to one of the sites I landed on, they apparently have parts for this model.
Can you check and let us know?
Oh, and we moved your post to the Speedaire page.
I have a Speedaire Model number 5Z639A 7.5HP Serial number 112995L-798329. I need to know how much oil goes in it and any other helpful tips to maintain it.
Thanks!!
Jason, I found one site that said that this compressor sump would hold 2 quarts… but I have been unable to verify that. Perhaps the page linked here might help?
If the pump doesn’t have sight glass; generally you can simply pull out one of the lowest point bolts on the crankshaft end cover and refill till oil begins to leak from the removed bolt hole. This insures splash lubrication is reaching crankshaft journal , bearing cover support bearings.
I have no clue how to post a new thread.
I have a Speedaire Air Compressor built in 1976. Model # 1Z991D. Seems to work well. Pumped up to 100 lbs today after sitting for quite some time. Need to sell. Not sure of details of compressor. Size of tank or motor. Hooked to 220V. Would like ballpark value to sell it in Tucson metro area.
Anybody know?
Liz, you’ve posted it just fine. Only thing is, you didn’t include any pictures and that will make it difficult for folks, for sure.
I am looking for repair service in my area for a Speedaire 80 gal two stage air compressor. I’m in Soda Springs, Idaho
Carla, please contact your local Grainger office for help with this. They should know local repair stops for you.
I have a 4B243A motor setup (3 HP, 14.1 scfm at 40 psi max 40 psi). It has a Dayton 9R730 motor and a VT470401 compressor pump (which i’m unsure if they are original to the 4B243A setup). I have a 5Z364A 60 gallon tank (rated 200 psi).
I acquired this setup when i purchased a new shop; was left behind by a previous owner. What i’m wondering is; with a tank rated for 200 psi; a compressor pump rated for 135 psi; and a 3 HP 3 phase motor; could i just swap the pressure switch out to something closer to 135 psi and have no issues? If so; are any of the genetic pressure switches suitable? Current there is a Furnas CW207571AV (on 30 off 40 psi) pressure switch on there. Which again; im unsure if this is original to the model number.
Your suggestion is fine. Replace the pressure switch with one with that gives you cut out at 135 PSI and cut in around 90 or so. As long as all components in the system can handle the 135 PSI, then you should be fine.
I have a speed air 5Z689A 2 stage compressor and often through the day the PRV on top of one of the cylinders will pop open for a split second just as the motors stop. Also you can sit and watch the pulley and motor rotate slightly on the same stage as the PRV, after the motor has stopped, as if the piston is moving on its own.
Thoughts?
Only that a PRV burp is an indicator of air flow being blocked a bit, and that may be pointing to a bad valve.
We have two (isolated) 1WD61 Speedaire (champion) compressors. We have observed small issues on both units as follows:
Unit 1: Operates normally except that air bleeds from pressure switch during the first 30 seconds of the cycle. The bleed stops during the second half of the cycle and the unloader valve releases air as intended post-cycle. There is no continuous air bleed between cycles. Is this likely a failed unloader valve or a dirty check valve?
Unit 2: Cycles on and builds pressure normally at first filling. However under low usage the unit cycles on every minute with a short (6 second) cycle. This continues to happen at these intervals. I assume the pressure switch is activating too early (low end) and needs to be replaced. Does that sound reasonable?
Thanks.
Regarding unit 1, I would suspect that the unloader valve itself is the culprit, as, when the compressor is running, the pressure switch should have tripped it to off, and no air should be existing it then. It may need a cleaning, is all. If that doesn’t resolve it, I would change the unloader.
Unit 2, whether air from the tank is used quickly or slowly, the pressure switch should not trip to ON until the cut in pressure level is reached, and then it should trip to OFF when the cut out tank pressure is reached. That it cycles in 6 second increments suggests a weak spring, points burnt, diaphragm leaking or all of them, an a replacement switch should resolve this.
I have a wheelbarrow model 1vn93 that runs great but only pumps up to between 20-30psi and no more. Any ideas?
If the pressure in the compressor tank will only rise to a certain level, and that’s below the normal unload pressure level where the motor throttles down, then the issue is most likely the pump itself.
While this page (http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-will-not-stop/) is oriented to electrically driven compressor pumps, the message is the same for gasoline driven pumps exhibiting your symptoms.
– intake valve failing
– pressure valve failing
– blown gasket inside pump
– tank check valve is impeding flow
– compressor leaks somewhere at the same rate that air is pumping into the tank
Not knowing how long you’ve had this Speedaire 1VN93, nor when or if you’ve had a pump rebuild, I suspect it’s time now. Good luck.
I also have a Speedaire 1VN93 wheelbarrow compressor and my problem is when the tank reaches shut off psi the engine goes into idle mode but as soon as there is a demand for more pressure the engine stalls. I bought this compressor used and when I got it it had a second unloader valve toggle lever on one of the tanks. It was damaged so I eliminated it. Could this be my problem or is it a sign of something else? Thanx
The typical cause is a failing throttle unloader which isn’t reacting to the pressure demand to rev up the motor. A shop visit or replacement throttle unloader may be necessary if you cannot identify how that one on the compressor is failing.
We have a Speedaire Model 4B219, now discontinued, that blows the pressure relief valve every time the motor is about to kick off after reaching the specified pressure. The valve blows and the motor kicks back on. I have to manually shut the valve, but it will continue happening all day long if I do that. I have managed to make it work in the past by playing with the outlet pressure adjustment knob, but that is no longer working. They no longer make the pressure switch for this model to my knowledge. Do I need to replace it with an alternative or should I be looking at something else? Thanks..
Travis, I’ve moved your question to the Speedaire page. I’m a bit puzzled by the fact that you refer to the PRV blowing off when the compressor cuts out, and then later talk about them no longer making the pressure switch? Is the PRV on this model not part of the regulator manifold, and not located anywhere near the pressure switch? If the compressor is cutting out at the correct pressure setting, and the PRV is cracking open at that point, then the PRV is likely the problem. Either it’s become contaminated with compressor oil and cracks at two low a pressure, or the internal spring, if it has one, has weakened over time. You know the pressure at which this Speedaire model normally stops. Acquire a new PRV with a cracking pressure about 15 PSI higher than that and you should be fine. If it’s not the PRV you are speaking about, please clarify.
I have a Speedair 5Z405D powered by 10hp lesson motor. Sometimes it runs ok but majority of the time it makes a grunting type noise followed by tripping the wall circuit breaker after the motor pulls near 200 amps. Motor and pump spin by hand unloaded fine. We have replaced all the capacitors, same issue. Any advise on how to check pump assembly for a restriction/high resistance? Anyone come across a similar issue?
Nick, that’s a tough one. The electrical charts suggest your motor should be pulling about 70 amps on start. Looks like you’ve checked all you can. In logical sequence if you are getting a good power supply to the motor circuit, there are no loose connections, the start panel connections are secure, the caps are good, then it’s pretty much got to be the motor itself is failing, or as you point out, a mechanical load issue caused by the pump. That the pump turns easily by hand with no load is good since when the compressor starts that’s the condition the motor is seeing too, right? No load. As long as the sheaves turn easily, the belt is aligned, the motor should start since there is virtually no load at that time. That points back to the motor for me. Still, if you are handy, tear down the pump and have a look.
Hello I have 1960 Speedaire air compressor I need a off and on switch and aluminum tubing and belt and also parts manual where I find these part’s at or what options do i have can I up date the part’s?.
Ruban, I’ve moved your question to the Speedaire page. If you haven’t done so, please check with Grainger about parts for your compressor. You will need to find the model number on the info plate to give to them, along with the serial number. Regarding non-OEM parts, sure, you can substitute any parts that work the same way. If you search for pressure switches, for example, find those that look like the existing one, and as long as the plumbing fits, and the voltage and pressure settings are the same, you can use it. The same for the other parts, including the belts. Please read about the various compressor parts on the pages of this site, as how to replace them with non-OEM is part of some of them.
I have a Speedaire 3z531 compressed air dryer. Any idea how old it is and what it might be worth assuming it still works?
The unit is 1/3 horse power with rated capacity 35 SCFM @ 100 psig & 100F. New, they were $1,000 or so and current pricing suggests $250-$350 depending on condition and if it runs at all. We suggest you call Grainger at (1-800-472-4643) to determine when they were first sold.
I have an older Speedaire that stopped working. I loosened the belt and the motor runs freely, but I can barely turn the pump flywheel by hand. The single phase pump part # is 2Z498. Is it rebuild-able and if so where can I get instructions and parts for a model this old?
If you Google compressor pump 2Z498 as we just did, pump repair part sources will appear. Most common rebuild parts for the 2Z498 are readily available.
i have upright 60gl speedaire air comp. i know i need valve plate assembly, one of the thin pieces of metal broke off and comp will not build up much pressure.
numbers i found plate has a t00113
number under dipstick vt470401
other side of pump vto403
bought this new back in 1997
any help thanks
If your Speedaire is a model vt470401, then if you simply Google parts for a vt470401 as we just did, you will find that this pump is made by Campbell Hausfeld, and many parts, including the valve plate, are still available.
Hi-
I’m looking for a pressure switch for a Speedaire 3Z355 compressor. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Scott, we are delighted to post this for you in the hope that a kind Speedaire 3Z355 owner can respond. We cannot find an image on line for your compressor, nor can we find any details about the pressure switch, so we cannot recommend an alternate. If you could post again here, and add a couple of photos of the existing switch, maybe we could find a replacement.
I have a Speedaire compressor m. 2yj61, it. Keeps backfiring and won’t start.
Niko, just the other day a motorcycle went by our office, and as they throttled down, a series of backfires could be heard. They were very loud. What the problem with your wheelbarrow compressor sounds like to be is the timing is off, and you have raw gas getting into the exhaust system and igniting there, as opposed to firing inside the cylinder. This is more an auto mechanic type problem than a problem with the air compressor itself. We are not mechanics, so will have to rely on another visitor with a similar wheelbarrow type air compressor to provide a solution specific response.
I have a Grainger Speedaire Compressor and it’s been Tripping the Breaker after they first fill of “Air” into the Tank. I’ve Installed a New 15hp Motor and the problem is Still There. Im Going Back to Check some of the theories on this Page. I’ll Keep You Informed.
Sure enough, Robert. Do check your unloader valve as part of your investigation, won’t you?
I have a 4 gal speedaire pancake compressor. Grainger model # 1vw40. I’m getting 120v into the pressure switch but zero volts on the “motor” side of the switch? I’m assuming the pressure switch is bad?? Can you help me locate a pressure switch?
Thanks,
Todd
Use this link to search for one where you are, Todd.
Thanks Willy. I found an old C-H compressor with a bad motor and was able to salvage the pressure switch off of it. Got the speedaire running last night. Thanks again for your insight.
I have an older Speedier 3Z420 – it builds pressure to about 22psi then slows down and stops. I changed the oil and plugged it directly into an outlet. any ideas??
Hi there Ken. If the power supply to the compressor is good, then it’s likely still a power related issue. We think that you may be having a capacitor problem. The caps aid in starting the compressor motor and, in some cases, are used by the compressor while the motor is running. The failure of these devices could lead to the compressor symptom you describe. Please see the page on this site about compressor capacitors and how to check them.
I want to overhaul the pump on an old Speedaire 3Z745A-2. The pump is marked R158C-2 and has two breathers; one from the crankcase to the atmosphere via what looks like an oil dipstick tube, the other from the crankcase to the cylinder head via 1/4″ tubing. I have been unable to find a parts list for this pump. I will need rings, gasket set and reed valves. With respect to the valves, why would I need to replace the plates, assuming they are undamaged? Any advice/assistance you can provide would be very much appreciated.
We couldn’t locate any specifications for this Speedaire 3Z745A-2 compressor. We don’t know how old it is, or were able to see an image to help with information. We hope that another visitor can provide more information about a parts supply. As to the valves themselves, metal fatigue will eventually weaken and allow the valves to break. When will this happen? Probably as soon as you reassemble the pump for testing! (We hope not, but that might happen) If you have torn the pump down for a rebuild, it makes sense to us to replace wear elements, gaskets, seals and the valve plates, just to ensure that an older part doesn’t fail shortly after you rebuild, and then you have to tear down the pump again. Folks do make their own gaskets and valve plates for older compressors. Some of the pages on this site address this.
I have a speedaire HD 095 RAD Upright single faze. With a 2 hp motor.
The start up is good but as it builds pressure it starts to bind at 35psi and wants to stop, so I turn it off before it trips the breaker.
It is hard wired no ext. cord.
We could not find any information about a Speedaire compressor HD 095 Gary. However, the symptoms your air compressor is exhibiting suggest that you may have a run capacitor failing. We suggest you test both motor capacitors. See the page on this site about how to do that.