What do Husky air compressors and Home Depot stores have in common?
The answer is that Husky air compressors are the house brand name for Home Depot’s own air compressor line.
That isn’t to say that you cannot buy other brands of air compressors at Home Depot. But if it’s a Husky air compressor you are looking at, it’s built by a compressor manufacturer, or many compressor manufacturer’s, and they brand the compressor with the Husky name and logo.
During 2015 Home Depot was offering about 15 different models of Husky air compressors, from smaller portable units up to a 7.5 HP x 80 gallon two stage air compressor.
Of course, the Home Depot Husky brand extends into many hardware related products, like air and hand tools, for example. These are not manufactured by Home Depot either, but are commercially produced and branded Husky.
Who Makes Husky Air Compressors?
We spent quite a bit of time researching this issue. Some on line sources point to Campbell Hausfeld as the manufacturer of Husky air compressors. Other sources point to the Chinese company Ningbo Huasheng Air Compressors Co. There is likely truth in both claims, as it seems that some Campbell Hausfeld air compressors (and for that matter, many other well known air compressor brands) are made by Chinese manufacturers.
The issue with who makes the Husky brand of air compressors is one of reputation (quality wise) and the source for spare parts. After all, it’s only a matter of time before your Husky air compressor (or any air compressor for that matter) fails. When it does, who fixes it and where do you get parts?
The logical first source is the Home Depot store where you bought the compressor. Ask them if they have a preferred repair shop if they fix air compressors under warranty, rather than just trashing them. That repair depot is a good source for parts, as many of the parts are interchangeable from other brands, since so many different brands are made by the same company or companies.
The Home Depot website, if you follow the links at the bottom of the page, will eventually get you to a phone number you can call. Good luck with that.
Or, you can post your Husky compressor question or parts needs here. Make sure you include your model number and any other details about the condition of your compressor to allow others to help you. Only posts about Husky air compressors will be shown at the bottom of this page.
Hello,
I bought a Husky c303H from home depot a couple months back. it seemed to be working well up until a couple of weeks ago. it hasn’t maintained its compression and will not hold pressure at even 70psi. it constantly stays on.
It will eventually build up to 100psi, but that is when nothing is being used.
Please help
Thanks
Doesn’t this compressor have a cut out pressure setting of 175PSI? Are you saying that it’s running and running and never gets to that level? Are you using an extension cord or power bar? If not, I think something’s not right with it, and since it has a 2 year warranty, I’d take it back for a replacement.
I have a 26 gallon air compressor by husky and now when I get ready to use it the compressor will run until it get about 49 lbs then cut off and I have to kill the power for about 3 to 6 mins before it will come back on and run for a another 15 lbs..what do you think is wrong?
From the sound of it Danny, it could be a number of things.
Do you have the compressor attached to a too long extension cord? Try running it without any extension cord.
Or, is the compressor running and running and taking an inordinate amount of time to get to the 49 PSI? If so, that could be a pump issue.
Another cause could be that the motor run capacitor has some issues.
I have a Husky 29 gallon air compressor that I bought used a few years ago for my shop. Sorry, I don’t have the model number. I believe its a 5.1 H. Its used 1-2 times monthly for 20 min or so each time typically. A few months ago I plugged it in and turned on the switch but nothing happened. I moved it out from the wall and in the process bumped it against the wall. It fired up and ran to max pressure. The next two times I tried to use it, it wouldn’t start until I jerked the whole unit back and forth hard a few times. The last time, it took longer to start and the motor speed waivered up and down the whole time until it reached maxed pressure. What part does that sound like that’s going bad?
If you can handle a multimeter, the next time you go to start it, probe the wire on the motor side of the pressure switch. If you find that, with the tank empty of air, that power is not on the motor side of the switch, my guess is that the pressure switch is going bad. Eliminate that as a cause first would you, then comment here if the problem persists.
Where can I find a replacement inlet tube for a Husky 8 gal portable compressor, model TA 2530B. The parts breakout identifies is a kit K ( with fittings, compression gaskets, and fin).
Sorry, but I expect you are out of luck getting OEM parts for the Husky 8 gal portable compressor, model TA 2530B. Home Depot does not, to my knowledge, stock any internal parts for any of their compressors. The actual manufacturer of the compressor may change from year to year, so knowing who make your TA2530B is almost impossible to determine. If the part you refer to is the line from the pump head to the tank, may I suggest you remove the old, take it to an industrial plumbing supply house where, I expect, they can duplicate it in copper tubing and standard parts.
Thanks! I’ve looked about everywhere and the part just doesn’t seem to exist. Can it be replaced with a braided flex hose or does it have to be copper or aluminum tubing?
Randy, they typically use a metal pipe as the pump generates a lot of heat and plastics or similar might melt. If you take the old one to a good plumbing wholesaler, I expect they’ll be able to put one together for you with the same fittings to fit the compressor. Failing that, using copper tube and compression fittings from a good hardware store you can probably make one yourself. Copper works best for a DIY in my opinion.
Hi, I have a 60 gallon Husky, model VH631400AJ that Ive had for several years. It’s an 07 model that I bought used in 2012. It works grat for what I need but the other night it suddenly got louder. I was running an air grinded for a while amd the comoressor cycled 6 or 7 times in 35 minutes or so, then the next time it cycled the sound was much louder and “rattley” if that makes sense. It still builds pressure fine, and doesn’t take any longer to it, but doesn’t sound normal. I’m thinking I may have overheated it? I changed the oil and checked it over fur anything loose but didn’t find anything. Any thoughts?
I think that you have a pump gasket leaking, and that, in time, your pressure rebuild rate will take longer and longer until the tank pressure never reaches cut out.
i have an 80 gallon husky, fr-y56 hz 5hp and ive had the comapsitors replaced and now it still keeps blowing pressure switches ?
What does blowing the pressure switches mean, Ryan? Is it an electrical fault, as in the points are burning out, or is it pressure related, as in the switch diaphragm is rupturing?
I have a Husky H1826F purchased at Home Depot. About 18 Months ago I replaced the pressure regulator part # 9051148. The compressor developed an air leak at the regulator and I found the rubber o-ring had failed. Is a replacement 0-ring available and where can I get one? No results from internet search.
Sorry, it’s doubtful that Husky has parts available for the regulator. You can, if you are handy, integrate a general purpose regulator into the manifold. They’re fairly inexpensive. You’d likely need to get a couple of fittings too.
Hello have a 50 gallon husky it builds pressure fine but will not cut in when pressure drops and some times i have to turn on off switch a few times for the motor to start the motor will just barely turn a few times and then will start. Could this be a capacitor or a pressure switch problem?
Terry, could be either, but also could be a non-functioning unloader valve. Please confirm that the unloader is working, will you?
Yes sir,I have a Husky 26gal 1.5hp red tank standup compressor model 585-819
Serial #001281 manufactured on 7/09.
It will run and build pressure no problem. It just keeps stopping and tripping the thermal reset switch on the unit. I’ve used the same plug and no extensions with this unit. Nothing changed except trying to get it to fill up one one cycle. It can trip the switch and I pull the shutoff lever. Push the button back in then turn it back on. Just that fast and those steps. It’ll run for a bit then do it again.
It will run for about 15-20psi other times it will go 30-50psi before tripping
Any help would be very appreciated thank you
Bill, see the page on testing the compressor motor capacitors, and test yours. The symptoms suggest a failing capacitor.
I have a husky h1506fwh. replaced regulator. there is air coming out of a small hole in black block that electrical chords go through and tank lead hooks into. I am barely getting any air from the connection where regulator screws in. Also the line to the tank seems to be getting hot..
When is air coming from the black box (I assume pressure switch), when the compressor is running or when it’s stopped, or both? The line to the tank is getting really hot because, I suspect, your compressor is running too long and not able to shut off to cool.
I have a Husky Model #VT631403AJ 135 PSI max compressor with a VT470000KB pump. It’s been running fine for many years but then couldn’t build pressure to more than 60 PSI. Thinking it was bad valves I installed a new valve plate. Still won’t build pressure above 60 psi. There is good suction at the intake port. I think the piston rings are OK because there is virtually no air coming out of the oil fill port. My next test will be to disconnect the pump discharge line to determine if there is sufficient air flow out of the pump. Any other suggestions on what to check/test?
Is it stopping at 60 PSI, or continues running, but the gauge reading reaches and stays at 60 PSI? What is the normal cut in pressure level? Is the tank pressure dropping below that normal cut in before the compressor starts?
Looking for parts in Kansas City areato repair my unit Model WL660501AJ
On line if your best option then, Richard. If you Google “parts for Husky compressor WL660501AJ” as I just did, you will find sources that will ship to you.
I have a Husky H1512FWK 12 gal air compressor.
I am looking for carbon brushes for the motor.
made 05/2007, still worked great up until there motor stopped working. Brushes are nubs and not making contact anymore.
MasterToolRepair.com carries replacement brushes. See if they can help.
I have a Husky WL650703AJ unit that has worked fine in a home garage shop for a number of years. Now it shuts down at about 50psi. It’s set for max pressure. Sounds fine when running, just trips (internal overload?) and dies. Power off, wait a minute and she powers back up. And repeats.
I can’t find a manual to troubleshoot for issues. Any help appreciated.
That it tries to restart after a spell suggests that it’s a power problem. If nothing has changed on the power supply, as in you’ve moved it and are using the compressor powered from a new plug, you might want to check the motor capacitor(s) to ensure they are working. There’s a page about how to do that on this site.
I have a husky air compressor model#41214 won’t stop keep pumping till PRV release I need help pls
I moved your question to the Husky forum page, Tai. Typically, if the air compressor runs and runs, and pressure exceeds the normal cut out pressure until the PRV cracks open to vent over pressure, it will be the compressor pressure switch that is at fault. I could not find either parts for this compressor or an exploded diagram to identify what switch your compressor has. You’ll need to pull the cover, find the pressure switch (usually threaded into the tank on these smaller air compressors), and with the tank empty, pull the switch and use it as a guide to find a replacement. Start with Googling compressor pressure switch and you’ll find a bunch.
Thank you very much I’ll try that
Does the pump motor for the Husky WL651004AJ air compressor use a filter?
Kathy, if you are referring to the pump intake filter, a common part of many air compressors, the schematics I’ve seen for the Husky WL651004AJ do not show one. The motor does not have a filter to my knowledge.
HD1004TK compressor died, heart attack, motor smoked, …………………
Is it worth chasing another motor or junking the think?
Can’t be certain, but I’d guess that buying the motor would cost more than the whole compressor. If you decide to junk it, keep all but the motor. Some of the parts may be usable as replacements for parts that will fail on the next compressor.
My Husky Pro model VT631505AJ is leaking oil from the pump oil reservoir. No oil is coming out of the drain, it appears to be coming out under the pump (VT480000AV). Does this mean the pump needs replacement?
Might, but it might also mean that the oil sump bolts have loosened, or a gasket is leaking. Can you get at the bolts to try to tighten them to see if that may be the cause?
have a small husky air compressor model # Y1010. need a new air hose but when googled it, all I could find were references that no parts were available for this model. are the air hoses universal?
I take it you are referring to the air hose that goes to the air tools? Yes, they are universal in that if you Google air hose (if yours is a coil hose include that) you will find many sources, as you will at any larger hardware or big box store. The issue will be, into what are you plugging the air hose on the compressor? It is typically what I call a discharge coupler. It will be necessary to ensure that your new hose has a “mating” connector… or, remove the connector from the old hose and install it on the new.
I have a Husky 26 gallon 1.7 HP compressor model # WL660900AJ(AGM01). While it was being used the valve blew out of the bottom of the tank. I replaced the valve but now the engine is making a clacking/knocking sound when running and it will not fill passed 79 pounds. It also feels very hot when it is running. Is there something I can do to fix this problem?
If the tank drain valve, since it blew out of the tank, may have been leaking all the time, that would mean that your air compressor has run much longer than normal to try and fill the tank. That may have damaged the pump. If you cannot isolate the knocking noise to determine the source, you may have to open the pump head and have a look at the condition of the valves, replace any gaskets if you do, and may have to disassemble the piston to inspect it and the cylinder walls.
I have a Husky 6 gallon portable air compressor, model H1506F. The compressor will not turn on. It has a rocker switch with a bulb in it that glows when it’s switched to the on position. The bulb glows, yet it will not start. No sound, grinding or anything.
I appreciate your feed back.
Well, that the light goes on at the ON/OFF switch indicates power is getting that far. I’d use a multi-meter and check – with the tank empty of air – to see if power is getting past the ON/OFF switch. Then I’d check the motor side of the pressure switch to see if power is getting that far. Power should be flowing to the pressure switch, and with the tank empty, should also be flowing through the pressure switch to the motor circuit. Let us know what you found with those checks, and we’ll press on. Thanks.
Sounds like the carbon brushes are worn in the electric motor. That is what happened to mine.
Now I am looking for brushes to replace and get it running again.
I have a Husky model 417 270 that will eventually fill to capacity but it keeps turning off and on several times all the way to full pressure. When empty it will run for a minute or two and then cuts off. Subsequent runs are about 5-15 seconds long until it fills up. Any ideas? When I said it cuts off after a minute or two I meant it cuts off then goes into the off and on cycle of 5-15 second bursts. This can go on for nearly an hour until it fills up.
The part number appears also to be for a Powermate air compressor, Carl. Interesting. Are you using an extension cord? If so, try without it. If no change, it may be that the motor itself is worn out, unfortunately, it would appear as though the motor and pump assembly are obsolete.
I have a Husky 33 Gallon Model C331H and I’ve replaced the Piston setup twice. I have no issues with that because we run it a lot.
I would like to fix instead of replace the regulator. Is there a specific part number that I can look up to find which kit to purchase?
Thanks
The entire regulator manifold is available for under $60 on line. I doubt if you will find a repair kit – with delivery expense – much under $20, if you can find one at all. I could not. You can just replace the regulator itself. That may involve a bit of creating plumbing on your part.
My Husky 20-gallon portable Air Compressor,
Model # F2S20VWD, Type oil free, 150 psi, 1.5 HP,
is about three years old, has been in my shop and working well until today.
I went outside and heard a loud combination of hum and whistling and tracked it to the shop.Opened the door and the unit was indeed making the noise. The air intake filter was laying on the floor, along with some fragments of metal from it. It had separated from the fastener leaving the fastener in place and secure. The removable cap and the foam filter were intact and in place.The housing is metal. Where do I go from here to fix it?
Not quite sure by the meaning of your question, Jerry? Obvious to us is to replace the intake filter with one that threads into the intake port on the pump.
This may be a repeat, sorry if that is the case.
The air intake filter had apparently been blown out and away from the threaded connector. The air intake filter was on the floor, the threaded connector was still in the intake port. The motor was still running and emitting the sounds (as described in my first post), and I turned it off. Since this is an ‘intake’, I am perplexed by the appearance that it was blown off, yet the torn metal and the threaded end remaining in the port make it clear to me that it was blown off. I am certain that nothing external struck a blow to it. I am going to attach a pic and hope that it succeeds this time.
Same answer as before “Obvious to us is to replace the intake filter with one that threads into the intake port on the pump.” Whether you believe that something external struck a blow to the filter housing, that’s exactly what it looks like to me. If the intake valve has failed, and air was exiting the intake port, it would in no way be strong enough to “blow” the filter housing apart.
I recently inherited a 2-stage Husky 7.5HP (Peak) 80 gallon compressor that was lightly used for a few months three years ago then disconnected and stored in a dry shed. The placard with the model info is partially scraped off and all that is visible is H7. Two questions: 1) is the model shown anywhere else on the unit? 2) The pressure switch and gauge were damaged when something in the shed fell on it. Would any Condor pressure switch for a similar Husky compressor do, or is it critical that I figure out the model?
TIA, Pete
As to the model number, no, typically it’s on the information plate or decal. I find no reference to an H7 model number as it pertains to a Husky compressor. As long as you know the normal cut in and cut out pressure setting of the original compressor, and if the footprint works, and the voltage is the same, you can use any brand of pressure switch you wish. Just make sure that the parameters are within 5 PSI of the original, won’t you?
Husky HF1506FWH – motor runs but is not filling the air tank; compressor unit now ‘walks’ across the floor. Proper hoses are in place and valves are closed. Situation developed recently after running perfectly for the past several years. What might be the cause.
Well Jack, “walking across the floor” certainly suggests that something has become unbalanced. All compressor parts have been checked regarding mounting being tight, have they? Sometimes this is caused by a motor mount being loose, or a belt way out of alignment. the model number you have provided is not recognized on any internet search engine I have used, so I wonder if, perhaps, there’s an error in the number?
I have a ~ 4 year old Husky 2 gal compressor that stopped allowing air to flow to the tool on the end of the compression hose. The unit compresses fine and when you remove and re-attach the hose a few times the tool will work once or twice but then stop allowing compressed air through. Is there a simple way to diagnose or fix a problem like this? Could there just be a blockage in the hose and thus I just need a new hose?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Hello Cary. Yup, your compressor problem is not unique and answers can be found here: //fix-my-compressor.com/only-a-short-burst-of-air/ , and here: //fix-my-compressor.com/compressed-air-will-not-come-out-of-the-air-hose/ .
Hello, I have a Husky 4 gallon pancake electric air compressor that just suddenly stopped working. I’ve had it about ten years and its been a good machine for household use.
There’s no pressure in the tank. I’ve used a multimeter for continuity to test a functioning on/off switch (it works) and the pressure cut off switch (current flows through pressure switch). No reset button.
I tested one of the little plastic covered fusey looking things attached with zip-ties to the motor coils and had continuity, the other is hard to get to with probes but looks just like the first.
Both motors will turn easily by hand, and I can watch the piston arms go up and down. I don’t see a capacitor anywhere and there is no hum or buzz when I try to turn it on with on/off switch while unit is plugged in directly to functioning wall socket.
Now what?
Nice diagnostic work, Tom. The little fusey things you refer to are probably capacitors and / or thermal cut outs, but not seeing them, or knowing the model number of this compressor, makes dialing into the issue a bit more difficult. If power is flowing through every circuit to the motor, then it’s likely the motor itself that has failed.
The housing mounts that hold the hand/casing (over the motor) to the rest of the compressor broke off while it was running and as a result, knocked all of the fan blades off of the motor.
I can probably fix the housing but need a new fan blade to presumably keep the motor cool. Any suggestions on where to find a new one?
Husky Model HHD2NK
Thx.
When i Google “cooling fans for Husky compressors” I find a number of sources. As long as you get a fan with the same shaft size and the same O.D., I expect any brand would work.
I have a 60gallon 3.7hp oil compressor that builds pressure to about 100 psi , then begins squealing, the fan cut out and we get a burnt rubber smell coming from the motor. Model number 1000793964
Don’t know about cylinders? INS.CL:F ?? if that means anything.
Any fix/help appreciated.
The fan is typically on the same motor shaft that runs the pump. If the fan stops then, it suggests that the compressor motor cannot rotate, and that would cause a belt burn among other things. Also suggests that there is a pump issue. A single cylinder air compressor or multi-cylinder or provide the model number of this compressor.
Husky Model C331H Leaking around tank bung. See pic! Help!
Keith, sorry, no photo that I can see. If the leak is from a threaded plug in the tank, empty the tank pressure to zero with the compressor off and remove the bung, clean the threads, use pipe dope, and reinstall. If it’s not that simple, please comment.
I have a Husky 516-051. I am looking to replace the pressure switch , but it is completely different than most I see, just a small screw in type with two wires on the end. It also does not have a head pressure release “unloadeder valve” Does anyone know how the pressures gets released on this type of unit?
Hi Brad. If you google parts for a Husky 516-051 you will find some sources for the pressure switch as I just did. In terms of the unloader, I suspect that the line or a fitting in the line from the pump to the tank will have a small hole in it, that will allow air to bleed all the time the compressor is running, and then, when the compressor stops, that hole will allow air over the piston to vent to atmosphere. If you take the cover off and look at the head of the pump you probably will see the hole I refer to.
Thanks I will check it out.
My Husky 26 gallon compressor runs for a little while then shuts off and the reset button keeps tripping. I reset it and it runs a bit then trips before filling the tank.
If you are not using an extension cord, and no other appliances are taking power from the air compressor supply circuit, I suspect either a capacitor failing or the thermal cut out is getting too warm, too quickly.
I have an older Husky 32 gal. upright. It would not build up pressure over 35 lbs. I replaced the the valve kit and I have lots of intake pressure and exit pressure but the gauges stay on “0”. When I release the pressure valve some air comes out. The comp keeps running when it is on without showing signs of filling up. Can someone help please. Thank you. I did install the valve kit properly..
The problem with “lots” of pressure is that it’s subjective. Lots may not be enough. If you can, swap the regulator and tank gauges to ensure that it’s not a gauge malfunction that’s the issue. Good that you replaced the valves. I believe that you’ve installed the valve kit properly… so, that means that it’s possibly the piston seal that isn’t sealing. If this is a oil lubed compressor, are you getting air coming out of the oil fill tube? If so, that’s a pretty good sign that the piston seal’s gone.
I have a Husky 5 HP air compressor model number VT631502AJ. The oil level got too low and, to make a long story short, the piston bearing fused to the crankshaft. I’ve got new pistons, bearings and crankshaft on order. The big question is, how do I get the pistons and the crankshaft out of the pump housing? The piston rod (the shaft that attaches the piston to the crankshaft) is a solid piece of metal.
Oh my. Sorry, I have no idea. Perhaps another visitor can comment on getting the fused parts out of the VT631502AFJ Bryan.
Hi,
I have an old husky air scout compressor , model 41004. The chuck won’t stay in the quick release connector that is hooked into the side of the compressor. I’ve taken out all the screws that I can find to take the cover off to get to the nut on the connector. What else do I need to do to get on?! Thanks. Ameatur here, but trying to learn.
I have an 80 gal 4.7 hp 3 piston Husky air compressor. and i noticed it was running for longer than usual a couple days ago. when i inspected it, the center piston was extremely hot. And now when i turn it on it will only fill up to 90-100 psi, and will continuously run without building up more pressure, as well as the center piston is still overheating. Any ideas as to what it could be?
Not an unusual problem, Chetley. There is a page on this site: //fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-will-not-build-pressure/ that specifically addresses this compressor problem. That the one cylinder is getting far hotter than the others would suggest a valve issue inside.
My air scout (41004) does not shut down at max pressure. It keeps running until release valve pops. Pressure switch problem? Can this part be found /replaced? Thanks.
Dave, yup, it sounds like the pressure switch is pooched. To find it, follow the power cord where it enters the compressor. The first thing that power cord will be connected to will be either the ON/OFF switch if it’s separate in this little Air Scout 41004, or the pressure switch. Yes, you will probably have to remove the compressor cover to check this out. I suspect, but don’t know as I haven’t pulled the lid off of one of these, that it’s what I call a “mini” pressure switch, one that is attached to or inserted into the tank. If you have a multi-meter and can do so safely, after you’ve found the switch, with the tank full of air pressure past the normal cut out, see if power is still crossing the switch. If it is, it will most likely be a pressure switch failure.
Thanks. Very helpful answer. Any chance the switch part is available from any source? It’s a low cost compressor and just might be disposable at this point. But I’ve got a lot of handy use from the thing and would gladly repair it if I can get the part. Thanks again.
The pressure switch is likely available from a number of sources. The first thing to do, of course, is to test it as I referred to in my last response. If it has failed, pull the switch, have a good close look at it, and away you go on Google searching for compressor pressure switches, pressure switch for Air Scout 41004 and so on. Find one that looks like yours, and away you go.
I have a husky air compressor 4 gallon LP202100. Today it decided to stop building pressure. I took it apart to find that one of the piston head has broken off. Where can I find just the replacement part for 2 piston heads (figured I might as well replace them both)?
Well, like you we guess, you turned to Google to help? Unfortunately, when we did, your model LP202100 is not recognized as a Husky compressor. We suggest, since many of the Husky compressors were made by Campbell Hausfeld, that you visit chpower.com and see if they can help.
Hello my husky 4 gallon compressor starts fine then when it fills up it stops but doesn’t start any more why ?
Please have a look at this Roger – //fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-wont-re-start-when-air-is-used/ .
If that doesn’t resolve your compressor issue, please add a comment.
I have a Husky 5h.p. oil free air compressor.
Within the last couple of days the air pressure only will build up to 100psi. It keeps running, however will not increase.
I took off the shrouding to check it out.
I spun the crankshaft and it appears that there is no compression on the piston. I’m not sure if that is normal. I’m ready to explore taking the cylinder head off to inspect the valves. I may be jumping the gun so I thought I would ask before i regret doing that.
Randy
Pretty much all covered in detail on the pages about air compressors that run but don’t build pressure, Randy. Is air being pulled into the intake? Is there strong pressure air flowing out the pump to the line to the tank? These are things you need to check, though we suspect that you probably will have to tear down the Husky compressor.
Check with Jacks small engine for your parts could be your filler tube maybe busted that’s the reason it won’t fill to capacity, causing the compressor to continue to run and over heat.
I have an older Husky Vertizontal air compressor that seems to be acting up. The compressor would not fill to more than 75 pounds last week and now it won’t go past 50 lbs PSI. Also when the motor is running it sounds like it is struggling and has a burning smell to it. Any help would be appreciated.
Please have a look at : //fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-will-not-build-pressure/, and //fix-my-compressor.com/when-an-air-compressor-runs-and-runs/.
Assuming this problem is new, and the compressor worked fine in the same location and same power supply as before, they obviously something has changed on the compressor. From what you have written, we suspect it may be a capacitor that’s weakening and will ultimately fail. Then your air compressor won’t start at all.
Please have a look at the page about how to test your capacitor on this site, and post a comment with your findings if you would.
I have a husky 3.7hp 60 gal air compressor. Sometimes I leave the compressor on when leave for a few hours because it doesn’t cycle on much when not in use. When I came home the compressor was almost empty, the thermal reset button was popped and the unit will not turn on. Everything was dead cold but I still unplugged it and waited 10 min to reset the breaker. The breaker will not reset. It’s stuck out and frozen. I can turn the pulleys by hand pretty easy and got the unit to fire once for about half a second before stopping. Then nothing. I’m going to use my multimeter to check amperage to switches and capacitors in the morning but i thought I’d see if I could get any help here first.
It seems likely that your air compressor ran for a long time in your absence. Long enough to exceed the duty cycle, overheat the motor, and perhaps even fry the thermal cut out, if that’s what you are referring to as the breaker. If the breaker you refer to is in the panel, my, that’s a whole new issue. It is also likely that your run capacitor has been damaged by the heat too, if your compressor has two caps, or if only one, the start/run capacitor may have gone. If it were a mechanical issue in the pump, you likely would not be able to turn the pump sheave by hand. Good luck with the fix, and keep us posted if you would.
If it ran longer than normal then wouldn’t the switch that makes the motor turn on to fill the tank back up be broken? There would have to be multiple parts broken to keep the motor running long enough to break the thermal switch. It should only run long enough to fill the tank, and that shouldn’t be long if the unit wasn’t being used. Also that doesn’t explain the tank being almost empty, but not fully. If the air line exploded or there was a leak somewhere else then the tank would be completely empty, not just almost empty. I think I’m going to save myself a lot of headache and aggravation by just replacing the motor and pressure switch with an American made unit with a warranty. Trying to fix Chinese crap is pointless.
We suspect you’ve got a pump problem that, when the compressor motor runs, doesn’t allow an efficient fill of the compressor tank, and the motor runs much longer than it is designed too. We also suspect that your tank check valve is leaking a bit. Good luck with you switch out.
Husky air compressor 2004 don’t no were the wires go on plastic connector motor on top motor on bottom 4 prong and the plug in wire (to wall) top on bottom black or white on left or right side wl606800AJ..Thanks for the help,Mick
A bit hard to understand your posting, Mick. If you are seeking information on how to wire up the pressure switch, there are a number of pages on this site that already offer that information.
I am looking to repair a Husky 41004 portable air compressor that I can’t get to run. I have verified the power is good to the outside of the motor casing and it also appears to be good through the windings coming out of the casing. Would there be anything that I could fix myself or even a replacement motor that I could purchase?
Can you confirm all things checked as per: //fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-will-not-start/ ?
Hi
We have a husky 60 gallon 3.2 hp compressor,model vh631400aj.Oil is leaking from the top & is all over the tank.Also smells like burnt oil
Any solution would be appreciated.
Thanx
John
Be better if we knew what you meant by “the top” John. There is a pump cap on top of the pump and if oil is leaking from around its gasket, it may only need tightening the screws/bolts on the top of the pump to prevent oil from emerging. The compressor pump may get too hot to touch when running, and if oil is leaking down onto that, then that may be the source of the “burnt oil” smell. Tighten the pump head, remove all oil from the surface of the compressor, and test further.
I have a husky model # 516-015 and after checking every thing else it has come down to the thermal shut off in the motor, my question is what is the part number or the specs and where can i get it?
If the thermal cut out switch is actually in the motor, check with a nearby electric motor repair shop. We expect that replacing failed thermal cut outs would be something they would do regularly. We can find no Husky compressor with a model number 516-015.
I have a discontinued Husky, 2Gal compressor Model HHD2NK. In great shape accept for the broken cooling fan (plastic). Lost the manual but I do not believe it had a parts breakdown anyway. With no PN for the fan, my internet search for this part is very limited, so I’m looking for the part and for a parts drw that may help me in the future.
I have a husky 30 gallon compressor model vt631505aj 120v/15amp 2hp compressor when started it draws about 10amp and when it gets close to the cutoff pressure of 125 it is drawing close to 20amps and when i cuts off it trips the breaker on a 20amp circuit. there is not other load on this circuit when this happens. Do you have any suggestions on what to might be wrong and what I can do to try and fix it
Assuming no extension cord or power bar is in the power circuit, one of the first things we would check is the run capacitor. It could be a mechanical valve issue, either pressure valve in the pump or tank check valve preventing flow and adding load to the motor circuit, yet it does sound like a motor issue. Check the cap, would you? See how on this site.
I have a husky model 516-051 air compressor it won’t build pressure past 30 psi keeps running can not hear any leaks. This compressor has barely been used I’m not sure what to look for
//fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-will-not-build-pressure/
Have a 26 Gallon, 1.7 HP Husky, model WL660900AJ. It will only fill to about 60 or 70 psi and then cut off. Even draining the tank will not get it to kick back on. Turning the power switch from on to off and then back to on does nothing. Seems to need some time to cool down, or whatever, and it will go again but only by turning the power switch on. Any ideas?
Dave, we guess the question is, when the compressor stops, is power still flowing through the pressure switch to the motor circuit? If so, then it is likely a motor related issue, and that might be the capacitor. Make sure you are not using an extension cord, will you. If you use your multi-meter to check power across the switch, and you find that even when the tank pressure has not reached cut out, and the compressor stops, and the pressure switch has tripped to off to stop power, then it’s likely the switch that’s causing the problem.
hello . I have a husky compressor 26 gallon model VLH 1582609 ,417 270 . I have it for few years ,yesterday smoke come out from motor and start smelling how much will cost me a new motor and where I can buy it
Your motor may need work, or it may need rebuilding. We cannot tell from your post. Sometimes a failing start capacitor will off gas, and then the compressor will not start. Check your cap first. If it, or they, are good, then it’s off the motor rebuild shop or motor replacement shop for you. Neither will be available at a big box store. You need to investigate local electric motor shops. Cost? A new motor may be more than the cost of the compressor. A replacement capacitor may be $30 or so depending on its rating. We cannot help you with specifics as not all compressors of the same model necessarily have the same parts. You might inquire to Husky as well.
Hello, I am in need of the compressor motor brushes for my Husky H1504ST2 Portable Oil-Free Direct-Drive Electric Air Compressor, and the long screws that bolt the motor and brushing housing head together. I can not find any part numbers for the parts I am in need of any where and home depot can not help me at all. Thank you and have a bless day, Kenny
We’re not surprised Home Depot cannot help. You really need to visit an electric motor repair shop for parts like this. It would help to know the motor model number, HP and voltage too when you call the shop. That info should be on an information plate on the motor, or perhaps inside the junction box where the motor is wired. If you cannot find it, take the motor with you to the shop.
I have 3 yr old husky 1.5hp, 3gal. Time before last used , it started to idle up and down and had a minor burn smell. Today held compression than started smoking for 30 seconds, kept pressure in tank, kept running but stopped adding compressed air . What can cause that and is it worth trying to fix.? (At least i was able to fill lawn mower tires)🤔
Sounds like a motor problem Joe. Possibly the capacitor has failed (melted down) or it could be the windings. Assuming you have a clean power supply, consider checking the capacitor first.
My Husky from HOME DEPOT is 4 years old. Hardly ever used it, but now that I need to she won’t start. It’s a 60 gallon, it’s plugged in less than 12 inches from the socket, tank is empty, plug is good. It’s getting power, because it turns over 2-3 times then does nothing. I took the cover off, bit don’t know what it all is. What sounds like the issue is?
Thank u Jim
Jim, what happens when the compressor turns over 2-3 times and stops? Do you have to wait for a while to try it again, and then the same thing happens? Do you have to push the reset button, for example? If either of these are the scenario, then please check the capacitor. //fix-my-compressor.com/is-the-compressor-start-capacitor-working/
hi,,i have a husky 26 gallon 417270 compressor,,recently purchased power switch and all wires are disconnected need help to hook all wiring back,thanks.
The compressor pressure switch should have two small screws with the ground sign etched below them on the end of the switch. That’s where the two ground wires, the one from the power supply and the one from the motor are connected.
Then, look closely at the terminals inside the switch. They should be labeled motor or load, and power supply or power, something like that. The two other wires from a 120 volt motor are attached one each to each motor side terminal in the switch, and the power supply two wires are attached, one each, to the power side terminals of the switch. If you put the white wire at the top terminal for the power supply, attach the white wire from the motor to the top terminal on the motor side. If you attach the black wire to the top terminal to the supply side of the switch then put the black wire from the motor to the top terminal on the motor side of the switch. That’s how we would do it if this were our compressor.
I have a husky 17 gallon , neither gauge is moving off of zero no matter how long it run’s for, replaced prv and air comes out but still not reading.
You likely need to review what’s here: //fix-my-compressor.com/when-an-air-compressor-runs-and-runs/. After doing so, please update your findings with a comment here.
I was given a Husky HHD2NK, that the plastic cover broke when my friend went to pick it up and all the wires to the power switch came unplugged. I can not find a wiring diagram that shows in which order they go on the switch. There are red, white and black wires that come from the circuit board
Hope this helps: http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/SPST-rocker-switch-wiring.php . We are not electricians, and though we have no problem working on our own compressors, we cannot provide electrical advice ourselves.
We see a couple of images when we search for the Husky HHD2NK air compressor. One shows the power supply going to the circuit board. We are not sure which is your version. Please start a new thread and upload a couple of images of the compressor with the plastic shroud off.
I have a Husky model 136424 HPA1581909.01 19 gal. Q series compressor. The drive belt to the piston has lost all its ribs and just slips. I ordered a belt. Watching online videos of how to change the belt, I must remove the piston arm from the fly wheel.
There is a 7/32 hex recess in the center.I am assuming it is the bolt although it does not look like a bolt head. It looks like a flat washer with a hex recess. I cannot get it loose. I put a 2 ft length of pipe on the hex wrench and it still won’t budge.
Does anyone know how to do this?? Is it possible it is reverse thread??
We have not disassembled this unit ourselves. We hope there is a user of the Husky 136424 that has done this and can comment. We doubt that the thread is reverse. We wonder if there is a hex bolt on the side of the piston arm, as opposed to in the middle of it where the flywheel shaft is?
No such luck. No set screw either. I tried my impact screw driver with a hex mounted socket and it won’t budge
I have been looking for a piston for my husky compressor. the part # is 0480103. It seems that you can only buy the whole pump assembly, $230+, all I need is the piston and would not wish to buy a whole new pump. Does anyone know of a comparable piston that I could use?
My 6800 watt generator won’t seem to run my compressor. Ran it fine a couple times then it started bogging. Brought the compressor home and plugged it in to the wall and it run fines.
I need it at the desert. It is an older generator and am thinking of buying a new one with a designated 120 20 amp twist lock and using a pig tail on that circuit.
Not sure how many startup amps I need. Thank you!
Hmmm. This site is to do with air compressors themselves, not with whatever power source is involved with getting power to the compressor motor. However, in the hope that someone out there is electrically qualified to advise you on a generator for your Husky air compressor, we will allow this post on your behalf. Good luck.
The Husky model 4610A is identical to the California Air Tools 4610A. Similar models are sold under the GMC brand. California Air Tools has a much wider range of compressors.
I don’t know who the manufacture is.
Thanks for the tip, Jack. We all appreciate it.
I have had a Husky air compressor for a few years. Starts fine initially. Usually restarts, too. But sometimes it won’t restart but hums and trips the breaker. Will restart after after draining the tank or using enough air to drop the pressure significantly. Sounds like the unloader problem described on this site?
So I open up the cover and I don’t see an bleeder tube from check valve to unloader, and no connector at the check valve or transfer tube for one. Can and should I safely add one?
The parts list shows this basic compressor must be getting built with a few variations for cost savings. My compressor is item #835-522, VLH1583009.01, manual # 200-2669 rev B. The multi-page parts manual has one set of parts and it shows a bleeder connected from a check valve 031-0071 to a pressure switch 034-0192. But the parts supplement shows that for my manual # it changed to valve 031-0072 to switch 034-0172 and a bleeder tube and elbow is no longer used. I checked my switch label and it happens (luckily?) to be the original 034-0192 and I think I see the unloader connection at the bottom but with nothing connected.
So, I am thinking I could order the original check valve, elbow, and bleeder tube and connect it to the existing switch. Anything wrong with that? Or add a T to the transfer tube to connect bleeder? Husky also changed the motor part numbers and I don’t know if that could make a difference, though I could not find the part number on my motor.
Thanks so much for any suggestions!
If we surmise correctly, once you pull the shroud and get the compressor going, you will (might?) find a hole in the line to the tank, or perhaps a small hole in the top of the piston… somewhere under there, that bleeds air continuously all the time the compressor is running. If that is the case, that hole is now the unloader valve. Cheaper than adding a device, hmmmm? If you find the hole and it is bleeding air WHILE the compressor is running, no, you do not need to add another unloader. We would then suspect that you’ve got a power supply issue, and if you are not using an extension cord and are plugging your Husky compressor directly into the socket, we would check the start capacitor, as it may be weak.
Thanks willyr. I have looked and couldn’t find a small hole since I’ve seen it referred to in the articles, but I will look again. MIght have to take it apart to look all around. I plug straight into a the wall outlet with a 20A circuit and 20A wall outlet.
Is there a good way to release any air if it is trapped in the piston after it happens to test the restart? Maybe loosening up the transfer tube to see if air rushes out? Or will I then end up creating a leak because it may not seal back up when tightened? Or power off and rotate the motor by hand to a different position to see if it is as easy as when the compressor is empty? Leary of putting my hand around the pump or hose to feel for air release. Seems that would be asking for far worse problems (at least they opened a hospital right down the road recently), but would the air be enough that taping some yarn around there would show me where to look for a hole?
Where might the start capacitor be and how large? Not listed in the parts manual so I’d have to find the part number from somewhere. I have looked without removing the motor and haven’t seen anything obvious (to me).
Your compressor must have an unloader method. As to the caps, please see those pages on this site that explains what they are and where they are. It is possible that a small, fractional HP motor may not have a cap. If you want to emulate the unloader valve, simply open the tank drain and drain the tank to zero PSI.
Thought I would give an update in case someone else hits the same problem. The compressor did not have an unloader mechanism. Additionally, the check valve was bad.
After the compressor filled and then failed to restart I loosened the transfer tube from pump to tank a little. Air leaked out and also continued leaking out until the pressure dropped to about 80 PSI. Obviously, the check valve is bad, but I also figure if there was a hole anywhere to act as unloader it would have released that air. Also, without bleeding that air manually the pump pulley could not be turned by hand easily due to the pressure, but when pressure is released it was a breeze.
So I ordered and installed parts per the original build of the model instead of the cost reduce BOM listed in the supplement that it was sort of built to. Check valve with bleeder hole, elbow, bleeder tube, and pressure switch. I did not need the pressure switch because I got lucky that it got built with the original switch P/N instead of cost reduced one, so it already had an unloader even though it wasn’t connected, and it turns out it works.
Just $30 of parts to get my $200 bargain (compressor + tools) working the way it should. Restarted all 10 times whereas used to be 50/50. Time will tell.
Wish I had investigated it on this site 7 years ago when I bought it. It always had problems. If anyone else needs P/N because theirs is similar:
Problem P/N Replace with
031-0072 031-0071 check valve
064-0056 add elbow to check valve for bleeder
145-0324 add bleeder to pressure switch
034-0172 034-0192 pressure switch with unloader
So, i bought a used 30-40lb Husky.
Since I first used it the issue is that the compressor initially fills ok (less pressure than it should be…50-70lbs i.e. using a sand blaster attachment, it did not have enough pressure to remove mortar).
Then, after the PSI drops the compressor does not refill unless I release ALL the air, unplug it, turn it off, wait a minute and turn it back on. It simply does not maintain its PSI, and is turning out to be nearly useless for my purposes. suggestions would be a gift me.
David, hello. We’ve moved your question to the Husky Compressor information page.
We are not sure what you mean by 30-40 lb Husky. Would that be gallons of tank size?
If you Google your Husky compressor model number, you may find the specifications for it. A compressor that only fills the tank to 50-70 PSI is not working properly. We think that typically you should be getting 120-150 PSI into the tank before the pressure switch cuts the power to stop the compressor motor.
Does your compressor stop at 50-70 PSI, or does the tank pressure plateau there, and even though the air compressor runs on, the pressure will not build?
As to the not restarting issue, please have a look at the compressor unloader page to understand what this device is, and what it does on your compressor. From the compressor symptoms we think it may be that your Husky compressor unloader valve may not be working.
I have a Husky 60 gallon 7 hp compressor that builds up to 35 psi then the motor cycles on and off. If I keep the air bled before reaching 35 psi it runs fine but once it hits 35 psi you can see in the motor it engaging and disengaging. Do you have any ideas. Thanks
Well, Brian, normally your cut in would be in the 100 PSI range and cut out may be 130 PSI or so.. not quite sure what the actual specs are, so the only time the air pressure in the tank would fall below 35 PSI is when you have drained the tank down that far. Draining the tank often is good.
You say you can see the motor engaging and disengaging at 35 PSI. If by that you mean you can see the motor power on and off, that would suggest that the power supply to the motor circuit is intermittent, which could point to an issue with the pressure switch if the points are worn to the point that they don’t stay connected. It could also point to a capacitor problem. So, check both of these (see the pages on this site about how) and then post a comment here with your findings, if you would.