What do Husky air compressors and Home Depot stores have in common?
The answer is that Husky air compressors are the house brand name for Home Depot’s own air compressor line.
That isn’t to say that you cannot buy other brands of air compressors at Home Depot. But if it’s a Husky air compressor you are looking at, it’s built by a compressor manufacturer, or many compressor manufacturer’s, and they brand the compressor with the Husky name and logo.
During 2015 Home Depot was offering about 15 different models of Husky air compressors, from smaller portable units up to a 7.5 HP x 80 gallon two stage air compressor.
Of course, the Home Depot Husky brand extends into many hardware related products, like air and hand tools, for example. These are not manufactured by Home Depot either, but are commercially produced and branded Husky.
Who Makes Husky Air Compressors?
We spent quite a bit of time researching this issue. Some on line sources point to Campbell Hausfeld as the manufacturer of Husky air compressors. Other sources point to the Chinese company Ningbo Huasheng Air Compressors Co. There is likely truth in both claims, as it seems that some Campbell Hausfeld air compressors (and for that matter, many other well known air compressor brands) are made by Chinese manufacturers.
The issue with who makes the Husky brand of air compressors is one of reputation (quality wise) and the source for spare parts. After all, it’s only a matter of time before your Husky air compressor (or any air compressor for that matter) fails. When it does, who fixes it and where do you get parts?
The logical first source is the Home Depot store where you bought the compressor. Ask them if they have a preferred repair shop if they fix air compressors under warranty, rather than just trashing them. That repair depot is a good source for parts, as many of the parts are interchangeable from other brands, since so many different brands are made by the same company or companies.
The Home Depot website will eventually get you to a phone number you can call. Good luck with that.
Or, you can post your Husky compressor question or parts needs here. Make sure you include your model number and any other details about the condition of your compressor to allow others to help you.
If you have a particular area on the compressor, make sure you add a photo of the compressor, and then a closeup or two about where the problem is. This will sure help.
Thanks. We look forward to providing assistance, both us and the visitors to this site.
Issues about problems with Husky compressors sent in before:
Does anyone know where I can get a manual and wire schematic for husky y6020wk 25 gallon air compressor
I have a husky model y6020 wk air compressor looking for pump motor
I have a husky 947265 20 gal compressor. It turns on runs slow then turns off. If I wait a few seconds and turn on again it does the same thing. Any suggestions?
Have a 4 gal husky H1504ST2 compressor needs brushes on motor not able to find them any suggestions,?
You are Spot On and they make it hard to find parts . I have a 516-051 that is wore out . I need a cheap piston sleeve kit with gasket’s ! Do I need to replace the rod bearing or well it be ok
I have a Husky 7.5 gal compressor. It simply quit working. I went home from work on a Wednesday for a holiday. I returned on Monday and it simply wouldn’t work. It is getting power but doing nothing. As far as I can tell there is no reset button. Any suggetstions?
I have a Husky 32 gallon 5.5 hp peak, 1.7 hp running 150 psi max model WL660800AJ with compressor WL390100AJ. The compressor motor is bad. The parts are discontinued. I would like to mount another comparable compressor but cannot seem to find any comparable compressor or anything close. Any recommendations.
I have a 20 gallon Husky upright model #947265, manufactured 7-2014. Compressor continues to run fine and fill to 150 psi. Problem is when I adjust regulator, the knob feels like it “jumps a thread” and dumps tool pressure. Tank pressure stays fine. Now will not achieve output pressure of more than 40 psi before it behaves this way. Is there a solution other than replacing the regulator?
I have a Husy H1820F 20 ga compressor. It was working fine, then there was a radical change in noise, and it would not make air pressure. Motor is working, and piston seal is intact, thought I don’t know how well it is sealing. I can feel air pressure at the outlet when I turn on the compressor, but still no air pressure.
Any idea on what I should replace? Video attached.
Sorry. No video came through.
A “raidcal change in noise” suggests a gasket failure or a valve broken/failed if the noise is coming from the pump. Before you take the pump top off to check the valves, and since doing so may destroy any gaskets in there, first check to see that you can get a valve and gasket kit for this model. If the price isn’t prohibitive, I suggest that you acquire the kit and install the valve/gaskets.
Here it is, finally. Only the motor is making noise.
(To see the video, click this link for a video dowload. – Moderator)
Where can I buy the start and run caps for F3S33VWD Husky 33 gallon 516-051 at a good price and quick receive.
I have a almost new 60 gal. C602H compressor. My problem is I can’t get the flywheel tight enough on the pump shaft. there is no keyway or set screw or anything to lock the flywheel to the shaft other than the washer and bolt that threads into the end of the shaft. Locktite won’t hold it. it only takes 5 minutes for the flywheel to spin the bolt off and the wheel to come flying off. What is the magic trick to get the flywheel tight?
Odd that. I’d have thought that when the motor ran the torque on the flywheel would cause it to rotate so that the bolt holding it on would be tightened rather than loosened. Any chance the motor is running the wrong way??
Nope the flywheel has an arrow on it showing counter clockwise and that’s the way it’s turning.
Darn. I did a bit of a search and found this: Air Compressor at Master Tool Repair … Flywheel Bolt torque specs: 225-250 IN / LBS. (source: mastertoolrepair.com/) If you have access to a torque wrench, maybe it’s just a case of not torquing the bolt enough?
Flywheel rubbing on piston is that something that could be fixed or needs to be replaced.
Husky 30 gal. 175psi 1.7hp compressor. Model #C303H
Gilbert… has it been like this since you acquired it? If not, how did this come about? Was the compressor dropped or similar accident? You’d have to identify how this came about to determine if fixing it was viable, or, to replace it. Parts for this compressor are available and can be found by browsing for “parts for a Husky C303H”.
Wasn’t dropped and it didn’t run for hours normal use. It began to make a noise didn’t think much about it until it got louder till it became too loud. It’s a little bit over 2 years old going on three. If I turn it on motor still works and it does crank. Been browsing online a new pump it’s a little pricey for $200 more I could buy a new compressor
First, I agree with you regarding the price of parts on these “lower cost” compressors. Next, I cannot understand how the sheave could intersect the piston like that, unless belt issues are causing massive side-loading. Regardless, the original question is can it be fixed… answer, yes. Worth fixing? Debatable. Maybe buy the new one of the same make and model, and keep the old one for spare parts which will, eventually, need to be addresses as the newer compressor wears out over the year(s). Good luck.
Thanks had a feeling that was the out come.
My Husky 60 gallon compressor started blowing air out the pressure switch. Not taking the time to figure out what was what, I replaced it and the same thing occurred when I cranked it up again. Found out that it needed the check valve replaced. The problem since then has been that. After replacing the check valve that problem was solved but now I have a new one. The temperature that the plastic hose going to the unloader valve reaches causes the hose to rupture before it comes anywhere close to the cutoff point. I had picked up the check valve at Graingers and decided there must be something wrong with it and since it was not all that expensive, I decided to order one online, which cost a little more. When started up it appeared that it was going to be OK but when it reached 135 lbs it ruptured the line again. It was set to go off at 150. It is a Condor unit. I can’t imagine why I had not had this problem before. I had gotten this compressor fairly new but used nearly 20 years ago and it has served me well. I’ve got some paint work ahead of me and I need to get this resolved. I’d be please to find an answer. Thanks.
Yes, air out of the pressure switch unloader area is a symptom of a failing tank check valve. Glad you picked up on that.
If the tube from the pump head to the tank is melting enough that it will blow open under pressure, the heat source is typically from a pump that’s running too long. A pump that’s running too long is often caused by leaking valves or gaskets. However, if the pressure level of the tank exceeds the normal cut out pressure, that’s pointing to the pressure switch as being a probably cause.
What is the normal cut out pressure of your compressor please?
My neighbor has a Husky 3gallon, 1hp, oil lubricated, Model 395-226. It starts/runs very slow at first, then ramps to full speed, but when it does, it blows oil out of the oil fill cap air vents… what is the problem?
Don, I suspect that the issue is too much oil. Have them check it, and then let us know. Second guess would be the cylinder seals, but first, check the oil, as that could the be the cause of both issues. Then you’ll want to check the capacitor on the motor, but lets take one thing at a time.
The oil was too high to begin with but it blew out beyond the sight glass fill level. We refilled to the appropriate level in the sight glass, restarted and it started blowing out the oil again. It appears it won’t ramp to full speed unless we release all tank air pressure. We never got above 50 psi. I will check your other suggestions tomorrow. Thank you.
It might be the start cap as well, then. Please see the following, and you are certainly welcome.
I have a 27 gallon Husky C271H and I am having difficulty finding a replacement piston compression ring. Hoping you can point me in the right direction.
You can buy off brands that will fit… but you need to measure the existing ring closely to be sure the specs are the same, and, if the cylinder sleeve is damaged, a new piston ring won’t solve that issue.
For example, use the dimensions of the ring for a search, something like this: Piston Ring 73.02 x 2.38 mm (2.875 x 0.094 in) … or whatever the dimensions of your ring is. The compressor companies typically don’t make their own, they buy them from ring manufacturers.
Looking for switch assembly for a Husky 8 gal. Air Compressor 150 PSI model 0300816 sn# 2432017
J. R. what switch, On/Off or pressure? Thanks.
It doesn’t surprise me that there’s no OEM supplier for the On/Off switch for the compressor. The switch itself is worth pennies, and is available from many sources on line.
Under the cowling there’s typically 1 wire going into the switch and another coming out. All you need to do is measure the switch dimensions (button itself and mounting size) and go on line and browse for On/Off switch for small compressor. You will find many. Pick one that fits. You will probably find one that’s identical to the one on the compressor. Make sure the switch is rated for 110 volts, and away you go. Good luck.
Not that easy. Have looked all over the internet.
Take a couple of pictures of it and add them to this thread in a comment and we’ll see if we can help.
I have a Husky 60 Gallon Air Compressor – Model C602H. Air Compressor appears new – returned item I bought wholesale.
Motor will not start. No hum, no anything. I checked power to Switch – Good. I checked power at switch after turning on – Good. Checked power at motor housing – Good. Power on both legs is 125v.
Pulled Capacitors. Running capacitor read 49 uf – rated 50. Starting capacitor read 311 uf – rated 243-292.
Not sure what to try next. Seems power is getting to the motor, but not sure what is causing it to not even try to turn on. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Can you see if there is a fuse inside the casing or wiring box in the motor, plese Gerry?
Not that I can easily see. Im thinking my next step is probably going to have to be to remove the motor and disassemble and look for broken wires or something else more obvious. Maybe then ill see a fuse.
If the caps are OK, and power is getting through them to the motor, and there is no sound at all from the motor, then it’s pretty much got to be something blocking power to the motor windings (fuse) or the motor is pooched. Thanks for the comeback. Please keep us posted.
There is a red button on left side of motor. It’s a breaker. Push it very firmly and you’ll feel it click, resetting itself. If no click it wasn’t tripped. If you don’t push it hard enough it won’t reset.
I HAVE A F3S33VWD 33 Gallon Air compressor. It runs fine but trips the thermal fuse in the motor. I can’t seem to find. Replacement fuse for the motor or find specs on the motor to replace the fuse with after market parts. I’ve already replaced both capacitors and the fuse looks like its been hit before, I bought the compressor second hand but all else works just fine. Is the something else that could be wrong or a place I can get specs on the motor.
Jvega, are you sure it’s the fuse? Where are you using the compressor? What’s the fuse/breaker for the circuit you’ve plugged it into. What else, if anything, is pulling power from the same circuit when the compressor is running, please?
I have used a 30 amp and 20 amp breaker isolated circuit, and started it everywhere from outside near the garage, to in the basement but the results are the same. When it shuts off prematurely it stays off until the thermal fuse clicks over. You can hear it click. Then you can turn it on again. Unless there is something causing the fuse to heat. I literally was able to keep it running by just blowing air on the fuse as it was running. Any ideas as to what could cause the over heating or replacement fuse, or fuse specs.
Well then, it’s either the thermal switch that’s failed, or the motor, when running under load, is overheating, indicating a problem with the motor iself. A replacement switch might be the least expensive test. I know, you said finding the switch is the issue. Please check the motor plate again to see if there is a manufacturer name on the motor. If so, that’s who’ll tell you where to buy the replacement, or, what the specifications are for that motor so you can source an off-brand switch.
I have an Husky H150PL compressor that won’t build pressure above 25 psi. Any suggestions?
Hey Mark. Yup, a few suggestions about why your Husky H150PL compressor runs but won’t build pressure. If you are sure there is no leak anywhere, and there is no obvious place for air to be exiting (intake port for example) assuming you can find it under the cover.
If no air leaking out, then it’s usually either the valves in the pump, gaskets leaking (blowing open at 25PSI in this compressor case) or a piston seal. I did a quick check and parts are available. You’ll have to tear down the pump to see what’s what, and if so, make sure you use the full kit and replace all wear elements. There’s lots more info here on this page.
I have a Husky 8 gallon air compressor. Had it for about 5 months and use it only occasionally. I recently have an issue where when I turn the compressor on using the on/off switch, it sounds like the compressor pumps maybe 4 or 5 times then stops pumping and makes a humming sound…like the compressor got stuck? It will humm for 5 to 10 seconds before it trips the surge protector I have on the outlet.
I attached pictures of the compressor and the model number. I am not very mechanical and would welcome anyone’s thoughts/help.
Thanks in advance.
Paul, try this page about compressors that hum instead of starting.
Thanks for getting back. I couldn’t get the above link to work. But I did scroll down the page a little bit and saw another comment similar to mine. I followed the link below there and read the article you guys posted.
I emptied the tank completely and plugged the compressor into one of the 20 amp circuits in my garage and it is now working fine. Seems it likes the 20 amp circuit. Thanks again for the time you put into this site and for sharing your knowledge and experiences in a constructive and informative way. I am new to woodworking and still learning about my tools. There are a lot of sites out there where folks seem to like to talk down to beginners rather than help them learn. You guys are awesome and I appreciate your help.
You are very welcome. We all appreciate positive comments every now and again. Your positive comment is added to our home page!
I’m looking for carbon brushes for a Husky Compressor 30 gas QuietSeries (Q30), model # 835 522 (VLH1583009.01) any idea where I can find them.
Do you have the old brushes?If so, and you browse for “buy carbon brushes for compressor motor” you might find a comparable set. I don’t believe that the compressor folks make their own, nor do they make the motors. If there is a motor plate, does it identify the make of motor? If so, that’s your source.
Bought a husky 20 gal oil free air compressor. Model number c201h. Serial number 1315101T3130726
Have had it about two years and have only used it 4 times. Went to use it again and it started smoking.
What could be the possible problems and how can it be fixed?
Howdy. How long was it running before it start smoking and from where did the smoke originate? The motor may have been runninng, but do you know if the pump was running, as it, did the compressor build any pressure in the tank? Are you using an extension cord to power it? Please add a comment with this info. Thanks.
Was running for 5 minutes and wasn’t using an extension cord. It looked like the smoke was coming from the motor. It did build up pressure..
Enda. I am going to guess that the compressor has had, in it spast, some hard use. There are a number of items causing smoke on a compressor. They included motor belt is burning, the motor itself is burnt out, or there is a mechanical issue preventing the motor from turning. I have spent some time trying to find out what parts are available.There are a few. I’ve added this link to one supplier of parts for this make and model. Please contact them to ask if they have the motor assembly for sale.
I have a husky 8 gallon 135 psi it turns on then the motor struggles and then stops it still hums from being on but I am trying to figure out why it goes then stops
Howdy Chris. Could be a bunch of things. Why not visit this page on this site, and see if what’s here described the issue more fully? If not, please add a comment. Cheers.
I have a Husky Air Scout model #41214 will not restart under pressure
Him Tim. Good timing. I was just working on the site and saw your comment come in. This link takes you to a page on this site that talks about resolving just this issue.
If that doesn’t do it, please tell us what you found and that it still won’t start in a comment, okay?
Can’t find an unloaded valve. This is a picture of the pressure switch on this compressor.
Hi Tim. No photo showed up. Please try to take one of the pump with the cover removed and post it. I suspect that this Scout may not have a traditional unloader, but don’t have a manual and can’t find a photo on one with the cover off.
If you drain all the air, will it start then?
I have a Husky 32 Gallon WL660800AJ and the last several times that I turned it on, there is this burnt smell. The most recent time I turned it on, it would reach about 50 psi, it started to have this burnt smell similar to the last several times that I have turned it on, then the motor started to struggle (fluctuate up and down while running) to the point where it sounded like it was going to shut off, but it didn’t because I quickly turned it off. As soon as I turned it off, smoke started coming out at the back of the top black plastic shroud. I have not opened the shroud to inspect it, but does anyone know what the exact cause may be?
A couple of things come to mind, Tom. The first is have you moved the compressor and are using an extension cord? If so, don’t, unless it’s sized correctly for the current and distance from the outlet.
Next, were you using it for extended periods of time before this issue began; more than regulator use?
The burnt smell sometimes happens when a run capacitor is overheated and is starting to burn out. You can check your capacitors and to do that, info on capacitors issues is here.
The motor brushes (if this compressor motor has them) could be worn too far down. See your manual and parts list there to see if there is reference to brushes on the motor of this make.
The motor windings might be developing a short.
See what you find and let us now, okay?
Thanks, I will check several of the items you’ve mentioned. And to some of your comments, 1) No, I am not using an extension cord and I understand gauge size may not be sized properly if an extension cord is used. 2) I did open open up the plastic shroud and discovered brittle gasket and what appears to be crack lines on the metal valve gasket. But I have replaced both of these gaskets and the burnt smell seems to be there still, but the motor appears to run a lot better, but I didn’t let the tank fill to high pressure (beyond 50psi) because of the burnt smell. I will continue to do more troubleshooting.
Thanks for the update. Folks will be appreciative of an update when you have new info, as would a photo or two of the issue.
I have the 20gal C201H, It runs and runs longer then it should creating alot of heat. It does “slowly” build pressure to max. I usually will run it several times 5min each to get it all the way up to pressure. Seems to have a lot of air coming from the area where the air tube enters pump but only when on and building pressure. The fill time is crazy long. It got so hot it blew the fill tube o ring. What could cause this?
Michael, I put your two posts together.
The longer a compressor runs before cut out, the more heat will be generated. If it runs too long it will overheat and ultimately burn out the motor. Why is your compressor running so long? There are some tips further down on this page as to things to check: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-will-not-stop/.
Your comment about “a lot of air coming from the area where the air tube enters pump” puzzles me. Are you speaking about the line from the top of the pump head that runs down into the tank? If so, where on that line, where it goes into the pump head? Is the fitting tight? Air shouldn’t be coming out there.
Another thought… is the intake filter near there, and could it be air coming out of the intake filter if so?
Please provide a bit more info and/or a photo of where the leak is. Thanks.
Disregard the air… its the pump.
Could the piston seal or a gasket in the pump cause the pressure building problem? Just very slow at building pressure but it does build pressure and does cut off when it should.
A common result of a failed valve in the pump is air coming back out of the intake filter.
And yes, a slow build could be pump seal wear or it could be a damaged gasket in the head of the pump between the high and low pressure sides of the head. Only way to tell is to pull the cap off the pump head, but then, you’ll want a rebuild kit with gasket on hand if you do, as the tear down may, itself, damage any gaskets.
Thank You for your help, any idea where I can find a kit? I can find the O-ring and gasket but the the sleeve or ring for the pump piston is discontinued. Replacement pump unit discontinued
Michael, I just browsed for “rebuild kit for Husky C201H” and found lots of parts available. I suspect you’ll have no problem doing the same. Of course, you’ll want to relate the cost of parts and time to fix against the fact that a new one of these at H.D. is currently selling for $219. Good luck.
My 150 max psi Husky compressor won’t turn off. It will get to 165 psi,
then the safety release valve pops up, releases pressure to 100 psi while continuing
to run. Any thoughts? Model #WL651004AJ 5hp 17 gal.
Hello John. From the symptoms you describe I’d figure that the pressure switch has failed. If the tank pressure bypasses the cut out until the PRV cracks open, that’s usually the case. If this were my compressor I’d be replacing the pressure switch. Teh switch is available on the after market.
By the way, I believe this is a 1.5 HP compressor.
I own a Husky 1.7 HP 26 Gal air compressor (model WL660900AJLAGM01). I bought it new at Home Depot back in 2006. I have steadily used it over the years. I need to replace the belt and have no idea on how to do it is there any directions on this?
Hello Torry. Good news. If you haven’t found it yet, the belt is available in the after market for $15-$23 or so, depending on where you buy it. I believe also you’ll find that the compressor was made by Campbell Hausfeld.
Having said that, here’s a video I found that pretty clearly explains the process. Good luck, and let us know how it turned out, will you?
Good morning Gentlemen,
I have a Husky Oil-Free Air Compressor F3S33VWD, 516051.It was running till about 55 lbs and then continuously running . I have replaced the piston kit and the valve plate. Now it fills to 55 lbs and instead of running , it shuts off. What do you kids fancy is my next move ?
Assuming, but not knowing as I don’t have it open in front of me, that this compressor motor has a capacitor, please check and see if it’s not burnt out.
Thank you for your time.
I tested both “start” and “run” with a multimeter on OHMs , they both charge and discharge. I can not really test them because my meter does not measure microfarads. Does this running to 50 lbs and nothing more happen with a faulty capacitor?
The issue with a faulty cap is that it could cause the motor to work harder, it overheats, and the compressor goes off on thermal cut out.
Ill order and replace. I will let you know.
Sure. As with all of these smaller air compressors, you’ll want to weigh the cost of trying to maintain them against the cost of a replacement. It seems that many sellers of branded air compressors treat their lower cost models as “throw aways”, not intending for them to be fixed at all. Good luck.
I have gotten the new pressure switch and new capacitors. I am pretty sure that my capacitors are still good with the testing I can do, but I did get new ones. My new pressure switch cuts in at 120 and out at 150. Not in stead of cutting off at 50, Its runs till about 140 and then the relief valve pops. What do you fancy ?
Thank you –Bill
Hi Bill P where did you get your caps for 23.00. For both?
Hi Bill. I couldn’t find it. Do you know what the “normal” cut out of this model Husky is? If it’s normally 150 PSI, and the PRV didn’t crack open before, then it’s either a dirty PRV, or it’s failed.
If 150 PSI is the correct cut out, then dump all the air, and throw the PRV into boiling water or thinner. Let it dry thoroughly. Cycle it a few times by pulling and pushing on the end ring. Then reinstall. If that doesn’t do it, replace the PRV.
Well, I bought it used for $65, So far I have put in $42 on new plate, piston and cylinder about to put in another $23 into caps, after that all that is left is the pressure switch. Even if that is bad as well, I am at $138 . That is half the cost of brand new in the same size.
I have a Husky 516051 33 gallon compressor. I have purchased two pistons and they are both wrong is there a part number for the correct piston for this model
Same here still looking for the pistons
I too bought a new piston kit that said it was for this model but it did not fit the rotating crank. I ended up taking the piston head off the new one and putting it on my old piston body. It still did not solve my problem of pumping to 55 lbs and shutting down .
I bought the correct piston put all in and the compressor still builds up nice but it cuts off in like Three minutes then I have to wait then it will cut on again. Is there a temp switch or something on this thing ughhh
It is possible that the new piston rings need breaking in if the piston is sized correctly.
If the rings are really tight, then they are adding load, and that overheats the motor, and then the motor cuts off on thermal cut out so it doesn’t get damaged. Try emptying all the air from the tank and let the motor drive the pump with less load (air pressure in the tank adds load to the drive and motor) and that may aid in wearing in the piston without overheating the motor.
Shane, there are a host of sites that offer the manual. Simply Google manual for a Husky 516051 and you’ll find them, though I suspect they may not be free.
When I Googled piston kit for a Husky 516051 air compressor, I did find a source. That source says it’s the kit for that compressor. I don’t know where you acquired the incorrect pistons, so I don’t know if this is the same source.
I have a 26 gallons husky air compressor that I am trying to order a part for. My model number is WL650702AJ and i need the vertical store tube. Please help Thanks
Hello Tye. I’m having a bit of a problem understanding what you mean by “vertical store tube”. Here’s a company that has some parts, perhaps you can find your part there? If not, please add a comment with a photo of the compressor part you are trying to replace, would you?
I have a Husky C801H air compressor and recently it will run non stop and only build up to about 30psi after several minutes. It sounds and seems to run fine but will not build pressure so it just runs non stop. Is the pump shot?
Could be, Kelly. Perhaps not entirely shot, but it certainly is possible that either the gasket in the pump head has let go or the flapper valves are compromised. That’s the two likely issues. It will mean a pump rebuild kit if so, and you should be able to see the issue when you pull the pump top off.
Before you do, check the oil fill vent when the compressor is running to see if lots of air is coming out of the vent. If so, that’s suggesting that the piston seal is worn to the point that more air is blowing by it into the oil sump than can get into the tank.
Please advise what you found. Thanks.
I have a twin tank 4 gal husky with 150 psi. It’s about 7 yrs old. I was running my pneumatic tool today and it just stopped working. The light works on the switch, so its not power. All the pressure immediately dropped and it won’t run. Any ideas?
First thing to check Phil is if power is getting to the motor side of the switch and that power is flowing to the motor when the switch is open.
If so, then you’ll want to look for any fuses in the line near the motor to be sure, if there is one, that it hasn’t blown.
Next, if power is getting all the way to the motor, and there’s no sound or motion from the motor with the power on and the tank empty of air, then see if there is a reset on the motor. Push the reset, and check power on both sides. If power isn’t getting through, it could the reset that’s gone.
Please add a comment with what you found. Thanks.
I have a 3 gal 125 psi single stage Husky and I think the model # is 395226. In the user guide, towards the end is a chart showing which tools should and should not be used with this unit. Paint sprayers are not recommended and I am guessing this would require continuous use extending beyond the 30 min runtime. If running time is the issue, my question is:
Can a blasting gun be used with this compressor?
I want to start sandblasting a variety of surfaces like glass and ceramics. I am looking to buy a small cabinet with a syphon set up from Harbor Freight which requires an air compressor. I would only be doing small pieces and would never run it continuously for 30 minutes, more like 10-15 at the very most, so could I use this compressor for sandblasting projects? TIA!
You can certainly use a sandblasting gun with the compressor as you will generate enough pressure to do so. Unfortunately, you will not be happy with the result as this compressor will not generate enough air fast enough to use the gun for more than a few moments before the demand for more air will cycle the compressor on.
Yes, you are right, you will quickly exceed the duty cycle for the compressor if there is one.
What sandblasting equipment are you contemplating using? If you can find the brand you might be able to contact them and ask them for the recommended compressor HP for the unit. I would think it will be in the 5+ HP range.
Thank you WillyR!
I am looking for the rubber/plastic gasket ring that seals the piston in the cylinder. mine is worn down on what was the bottom side and it no longer compresses air.
All I can find is that the pump is no longer available. I just need the seal on the compressor piston.
Joe, do you have the old seal? If so, can you get the dimensions from it? If so, if you use your browser to search for replacement piston seals, you will find that there are a number of companies out there that make seals. The air compressor companies don’t, therefore, they are buying their seals from someone, and I expect a decent distributor of those products can help you find a replacement of the same size. Good luck, and please let us know how it worked out.
I do not have the old seal as it broke apart while removing it from the piston. It was stuck in the groove.
Gosh, that’s an issue for sure. I can’t find a lot of info on this model. What’s the motor HP? Can you please add a photo of the whole air compressor? Also, it may come down to you measuring the groove, and the space if any between piston and cylinder, and guestimating which one.
Given that Viton “O” rings for small piston compressors are available on line for a couple of bucks, you might luck into one that fits.
Joe, your question has been moved to the general Husky compressor page. As to getting an answer, there’s a gazillion and one models of Husky air compressors, and not knowing which model yours is will make it virtually impossible for anyone to help.
Or, measure the old ring (thickness – diameter etc.) and simply Google “replacement piston ring for xxxxxx model Husky compressor”. These rings are likely not made by the folks that build the compressors for Husky, and I’d be surprised if you couldn’t find a non-OEM replacement on line. Good luck.
I have a the Husky C201H, 175 PSI Air compressor and I’m having problems with the discharge tube popping out at the horizontal [air] compressor version of this machine, blowing out about every 3-6 months after replacing the O-rings. Is there a modification I can use to remedy this ongoing problem? a correct sized fitting, a nipple to fit this portion of the compressor or something?
Hi Eddie. We haven’t had a ton of comments about this problem with the Husky C201H. How long have you had this in use, and did you acquire it new? I ask because I’m curious to know if the fill time has increased? If so, you may be generating a lot of heat and that may affect the connection. Also, on your version, what’s the tube made of, please?
yeah, I bought the air compressor new, from Home Depot, it’s the Husky 175 psi, 20 Gallon air compressor. I’ve actually had the compressor for two years and in those two years we’ve replaced the o-ring (from compressor head) between 3-6 months, at a time. The performance of this compressor is I deal for what I use it for, mostly inflating employees car tires. The exact compressor is at this link.
I’ve went to Home Depot to try and see if we can by parts but nope, I asked if I can change the fittings for compression fittings, not o-ring and they claimed husky may have custom sized fittings the store(s) don’t carry. I bought a kit from erplacement parts, turns out the fitting are female only with proper threads to fit the compressor (fittings and discharge tube).The fittings are female compression nuts, but in order for such to be installed we need a male [nipple] fitting with threads on both ends in order for our compressor to work properly and permanently.
Have you determined the thread size? Both NPT and Metric brass nipples are available on line, and at decent plumbing shops.
I have the same issue and have been trying to find a permanent remedy for months. I have a compression fitting in the mail I’m hoping will fit. Seems like a pretty common thing.
So tried measuring the threads of the outlet tube discharge coupler and came up with about M14x1.5 and I found one company that makes compression fittings that size. I also bought some copper tubing and bent it with a cheap pipe bender, nothing fancy. I messed with it and got it working, btw I broke my outlet tube tries to jerry rig something up to fix quickly. The oring melted and the tube popped out just as began spraying top coat on my car so I daisy chained a few large worm drive clamps around the outlet tube and compressor, which actually held up well while I painted, but is not a long term solution to say the least. Then after trying RTV, JB Weld, and flaring the outlet tube inside of the pump, eventually the tube snapped. I don’t think the threads are really M14x1.5 although it almost fits and with some extra thick pipe tape I’m pretty much there. I think the threads must be an irregular NPT, maybe a proprietary size? Just like the drain plug is not the common thread that you find on most compressor’s drain. You might want to youtube how a compression fitting works before you try this, I pinched the sleeve on one of them but i had another 3/8 sleeve laying around to replace it. The fittings are about $10 each found on amazon or ebay made by dynapex. Ordered from amazon $5 shipping even with prime, shipped from Reno to California.
Hello, I have a Husky C303H Compressor and it appears that one of the motor mounts has busted or came loose and the motor is vibrating. Is there any way to fix it? Thank you
Not having this compressor in front of me, I can’t answer. Can you please add a comment with a couple of photos of the motor and mounts? With that info, someone should be able to help.
Husky paint sprayer has been working great, we are half way through house painting. Always well cleaned after use, and paint is thinned and strained before using. Today the gun will suck up air from the compressor and the air only is continually leaking out, will not suck up any paint.
Taken apart and cleaned several times and same result. Total waste of a day! Looking on Amazon for new sprayers unless someone on here can suggest a part, or what we are doing wrong…
I own a Husky 1.7 HP 26 Gal air compressor (model WL660900AJLAGM01). I bought it new at Home Depot back in 2006. I have steadily used it over the years.
In the last few years it seems to have gotten louder and louder when it refills the tank.
Then, I guess in the last month or so, I could start to smell an odor in the air when it was refilling the tank, like a burning odor. Today, I was using it, and it tried to refill the tank, and the motor started to turn slower and slower, and the tank pressure would only build up to about 60psi, and then the compressor just quit running altogether
I checked the breaker, and there were no tripped breakers, and all the connections were good. It has never slowed down and stopped running before, and I dont know if there is some kind of reset button anywhere for this model or not. I dont know if it is even worth repairing. I doubt that you can even get parts for it anymore.
I just went out into the garage, about 11:30pm and hours later, and plugged it in, and it started to run much to my surprise. It filled the tank back up and shut off at about 143 psi, and the top end was pretty hot.
Being that it slowed down and shut off early on me earlier today, I thought that it was shot and ready for replacement.
Now I am not so sure. It takes a good amount of time to fill the tank up, as it just started at about 50 psi and went all the way up to 143psi, and that took about 10 minutes of constant running where it got hotter and hotter. Your thoughts on this please.
Allen, your post was moved to the Husky compressor section.
Reviewing your comments suggests a few things about your compressor. When a compressor gets louder it often means that there’s a gasket that’s allowed an opening for air to vent, or, a valve is failing. That it takes 10 minutes for the compressor to get to 143 PSI suggests that either of those two are the issue, and then, when the compressor runs so long, either the motor goes off on thermal cut out, or the motor gets damaged.
A valve, a gasket and/or the capacitor would be the issues I think. Fix or replace? Your call based on the cost of a new, comparable compressor (though new ones will not be the same quality as those made in 2006 typically) versus the aggro of disassembly, parts review, capacitor checking, and then trying to find parts for a compressor 14 years old at least. Good luck with the project.
Hey there, I’m having a little problem with getting replacement parts for my Husky TA-2530B. I saw that in another comment you said that this certain model uses generic parts, I was wondering if you can help me source some of them for these parts:
Gasket Head (manual part #: 35.034A)
Valve Assembly (manual part#: 11-004)
Pin (diameter 3x6mm)
Valve, Reed, inlet (manual part#: 34-001B)
Gasket, Cylinder upper Piston (manual part#: 35.035B)
Unfortunately, you will continue to have little success getting parts. Generic parts are not typically those of the pump and power train, as most of those are specific to the make and model. You can make flapper valves from shim stock, you can make gaskets from high-heat automotive gasket material, but getting them “off the shelf” remains a pipe dream. Sorry.
Husky HL540200. Why can I not find the Sight Glass oil plug for it? I at least need the flat plastic gasket. Everywhere I look it says “NLA”, No Longer Available.
Allan, typically that means that the cost of buying and stocking parts would render their price higher than clients would be willing to pay, particularly when many compressors on the market are inexpensive imports, with many made by the same foreign manufacturer.
If you have the old sight glass what I suggest is you measure the threads, or, measure the hole into which the threads turn, to determine the size. Google “replace compressor oil site glass” and you will find a bunch. Pick the one with the same thread size. If you prefer just to replace the gasket, visit an auto parts store and buy a sheet of gasket material that is oil resistant, and cut out your own. That’ll work too. Good luck.
I have a Husky 33 gal 1.7HP. 165psi. When I first turn it on it runs fine. However when on for about 3 minutes, psi is at about 100 ” on tank ” I start hearing a ” screatching” sound. When I look into the louvered area where the small fan is, I see sparks!!! Can someone please advise me what’s going on with it?? Everything is ok as far as the tank building pressure!! Just the sparks scares me. Please help!! Ty
Well, I’m guessing you’ve got a motor problem. I believe the fan you refer to is on the motor shaft, and the sparks are coming from the motor vent, yes? If so, I’m guessing your compressor motor is in need of service. Anyone else?
I opened the plastic cover and noticed the sparks coming from the brushes. Wherebthe brushes meet the spinning portion.
A replacement brush kit might be the issue. If they are badly worn, that could cause it.
My Husky oil-free compressor C303H needs to replace the brush kits However when I got the carbon brush parts, the brush holders are missing. Can you tell where I could order them? Thanks for your urgent reply.
Does Googling electric motor brush mounts help?
I own a husky 8 gallon oil free air compressor, hot dog style, model 0300813A.
bought it online as a return. looks like the pressure switch were replaced or played with before
It wont turn on at all, if I bypass, shorting the pressure switch it will start and build pressure normally, thinking that the pressure switch went bad, I just bought a new one, installed it , same result.no power,
my reasoning behind is,,,, switch should remain close, passing current until it reaches threshold cut off current but when I measure the terminals these are open??? am I missing something here?
any help appreciated,
ok, I did a voltage test to my air compressor on/off switch, pressure switch and getting voltage to 1 brush and 1 not but when testing them together ( touching the wires of each brush together with a tester I have voltage and does anybody know who the motor manufacturer is for husky brand air compressors I have the model c201h?
I have the same model c201h and it needs new brushes and having a hard time finding them. The commutator was black. Took it apart and sanded down. Make sure you wrap sand paper around to sand evenly. I put it back together but still sparks a little using the old brushes till it quits. I’ve done this three times.
The commutator is fine on mine after sanding after each time.
Now I am looking for brushes that measure 7mmx10mmx25mm. If your commutator is black yours is probably the same thing. Use a screw driver to pry off the small fan blade and then remove the clip. Take out the two screws pull off the top. Be careful not to lose the ring washer inside. Always unplug first. I removed the whole motor before removing motor parts. Hope this helps
You can try carbonbrush.com to find replacement brushes
Sorry but a multi-meter does not tell you where to put the probes to check for electricity flow so i am asking you how do you check flow to the motor.
Bob, you need to get some local assistance. We are not providing information on the use of diagnostic tools for any application, including air compressors. Sorry. You may be in luck and someone else will comment on the thread.
I have a 2016 husky 8 gallons oil free compressor and recently the compressor would run, excede the psi limit and not stop until I had to unplug it because the safety pressure would engage and release all the air and the motor wouldn’t shut off now I tried to open it to check it and broke the on/off switch I checked online but can’t find parts anywhere model # is 0300813A
Hello hector, any chance you take a pic of the pressure switch connections? thanks
Hector try ereplacement.com , fix.com, grainger.com and I have seen on/off power switches at home depot .
Here is a link to the manual. Scroll to the parts page and see that 17 is the switch assembly and 29 is the pressure switch. You’ll need to replace the pressure switch based on your compressor symptoms. Husky has a service number to try: 1-888-43-HUSKY. If that doesn’t help, google switch assembly and then pressure switch for the make and model and that will typically turn up suppliers.
Thank you so much I’ll give them a call tomorrow
I have a husky 20 gal 175 psi. manuf. 2016 having trouble diagnosing the problem will not turn on.
What have you checked, please Bob? Did you check out the troubleshooting page on this site for links to that issue?
Model is c201h.
Yes, i am checking to troubleshoot but somethings do not explain how to do with a multimeter for instance checking to see if power is getting to motor.
Try tapping on the pressure switch, bottom of plastics opposite air filter by left side of handle, they used an 1/8″ id feeder hose to pressure switch could be clogged or pinched.
Hey Bob… the place to learn about your multi-meter is from the manual that came with yours. While I’d love to help, and if I were your next door neighbor I’d pop over to do so, I can’t help you out on this site if you can’t do the checks suggested. In fact, it might be safer for you if you didn’t try. Electricity can be dangerous. Please be careful.
Hello, I have a Husky 395-226 3gallon 1HP compressor. It’s now discontinued and Huskey customer support was of no help. The compressor runs initially and builds pressure properly. After the pressure drops, it does not come back up. Sometime, the compressor does not properly start from 0 psi level. It builds pressure to 20 psi with a very struggling motor and again cuts off. So far, I have cleaned the piston head, changed both capacitors and the problem persist. There is no oil leak and there is enough oil. I plan to change the oil today.
Please check the pressure switch to ensure that the unloader valve is operating. See the page on unloader valves on this site if you aren’t sure. If the part is working, then the next thing to check would be the motor capacitor but since you’ve checked them. Next check is, when the compressor shuts off, how hot is the motor? If it’s too hot to touch, that’s one thing, but if it isn’t, then it could be the thermal cut out shutting the motor off prematurely. If there is no mechanical binding in the power train, then it may be the motor itself.
If you haven’t got one, here’s a link to the manual for the 395-226.
I have a husky air compressor model Wl660800AJ, the motor is bad and the parts are no longer available. I would like to convert it to another brand pump and motor. The old one has a displacement of 9.9 com and 150 psi max. More info 120v/15A/60HZ/1PH. The original pump # is WL390100AJ. Looking for a suitable conversion if you could make a suggestion, thanks.
Hi Chris. I moved your post to the Husky compressor page.
If I understand correctly, you simply want to reuse the tank and controls, but not the motor or pump. If so, pick any pump you want with any motor that suits that. The tank won’t care, nor will the controls.
The existing pressure switch and pressure relief valve will ensure that the system isn’t over pressurized if you acquire a larger pump with higher pressure output, assuming both of these components are working correctly. Is there another complication you may not have mentioned?
I have this Husky compressor 516-051 (F3S33VWD). In the morning (cold) it runs until about 125 psi then cuts off, before the 150 psi pressure cutoff. I have to unplug it then wait a few minutes. Then it runs until about 100 psi. Again unplug, and so on, each time it comes back on it runs to a lower pressure. In a short period I can’t get about 50 psi before it shuts off and I have to unplug for several minutes. What’s going on (presumably a thermal protection?) and how do I fix it?
It does sound as though your compressor is cutting out on thermal safety. That means your motor is overheating, and the issues causing that are varied. They are also discussed on a number of pages linked from the troubleshooting page. Please have a look, check the parts that the pages refer to, and if there is still an issue, please add a comment to this thread. Thanks.
Didn’t find any other info on overheating on this website, and no part called out in any diagram (probably the thermal switch is included in the motor assembly). But I removed the shroud and added an external DC fan and that keeps it cool enough to run now.
Hi, We have a Husky C602h compressor, I can not view the oil level in the site glass for some time, additionally it appears that the gasket to the fill cap became messed up, I used a rubber o ring I had that appeared to fit and oil doesn’t leak nearly as bad. My issue is that 2 days ago, it began making much louder noise and upon inspection, air was coming from beneath the head cover in the pump. Beneath the metal tube, a pic is included. The tank was still filling at s good rate up to 150 psi, but wouldn’t shut off, I suppose in part due to the air coming from below the cover.
I haven’t seen a cut-away of this pump yet, but guessed that there is a bad gasket. I also wonder if I either didn’t fill it up with enough oil, or too much since I couldn’t see the level via the site glass.
Can you diagnose my issue and can I order parts to replace the gasket if that will solve the issue. As well as the site glass. And where to source the parts. I can replace this unit for $500.00 but would rather not have this expense. The unit is used for a few minutes in the early am, then for approximately 2 hours non-stop mid day. We have another freaky 60 gallon unit, but need both to handle our volume at that time.
Thanks, sorry this is so lengthy.
I have the Husky 30 gallon due to the fact I live in a apartment with small garage. I also have now the 20 gallon husky compressor. Neither one is sufficient to paint a Automotive. However can I join the two to work together. My next option is to waist a load of money on a gas powered compressor. I hope to connect the two I purchased from home depo under the info they list regarding HVLP use that is very misleading.
Hope this helps, Scott: http://fix-my-compressor.com/i-need-more-air/
No unfortunately that has nothing to do with my situation the amount of air to the tool is sufficient. However the quantity is not. The 30 gallon begins to replace the air which puts a hold on my tools. It could cause a catastrophe while painting a automobile. I am trying to avoid this by combining both my Husky 30 SCFM 40 psi 6.8 and 90 psi 5.1 . So I have connect them to one T both go to the each side with a one way brass ball check on each side and shut off at top. The out going air has filters for oil and water also air pressure chk. Both the 20 and thirty gallon are rated for 175 psi. The 30 kicks in at 110 psi I believe. I’m sure the 20 is not far behind. I think this will give me a higher SCFM rating and the ability to complete at least one coat before they refill.
Don’t use check valves, you don’t need them and they choke the air way too much. As long as the regulators are set at the same psi they won’t back flow and leak air. Trust me, I had the same issue and tried check valves and it was unusable. I took them on and messed with regulators until I found out they just need to be set at the same psi. This website says use check valves but they massively choke your air supply. Use 1/4npt 3/8 body fittings or at least high flow. 1/4npt fittings
The thing is, the air from the first running compressor will flow out the unloader valve of the one that’s not running. That’s why there are check valves. However, experimentation is good, and if Colin’s suggestions works, more power to him.
Maybe we’re talking about different setups but I connected my two compressors after their own regulators with a 3/8″ T fitting and then after about 25 ft of hose into two filters and then another 25 ft of hose to my a final filter, gun regulator and spray gun. One compressor is a craftsman 30 gallon(approx) and a husky 20 gallon. My gun requires 13cfm and those two compressors only combine for about 10cfm. I really needed a third compressor because I often had to wait for the compressor to catch up and I had to keep a very close eye on the gun regulator because when the pressure drops you’re going to get a run in the paint. Two compressors made a world of difference though. Also I was going to throw another water separator at the gun but I couldnt get good air pressure so be careful about adding to many things on your air line but you’ll need at least one “on the wall” filter/water seperator and one final on the gun filter. A lot of water comes out of these air compressors and it’ll ruin your paint job. In my experience it does not flow out of the unloader valve as long as the compressors regulators are set to the same pressure. If I have to hooked and turn the pressure up, air will leak out the other compressors regulators or unloader valve until you turn that regulator up. I sort of found this out on accident after realizing my check valves were choking my air too much. Maybe if you have really powerful air compressors a check valve isn’t going to hurt it too bad but if you’re already daisy chaining underpowered compressors, check valves aren’t the way to go. Also I have a regulator on one of my filters and that will also leak air unless I turn it up to same pressure as the regulators on the two compressors. So when all there’s are the same, no air leaking and no check valves. Thanks
Sure. One thing. It were me, the compressor outputs would be joined before the regulator, requiring then, only one regulator to control downstream air. That would remove some flow restriction.
Then, of course, you’d need a check valve, which wouldn’t be a problem if they were sized sufficiently.
You say you need a third compressor. Wouldn’t it be more economical in the long run to acquire a single compressor big enough for the job? Good luck, regardless.
Hey Scott. Thanks for the update.
Far as I can tell from your description you’ve got the setup for joining two compressors together just fine. Each isolated from the other, each cycling on an off as their respective tank pressures drop to cut in, both cutting out when their respective cut out pressures are reached.
Are both compressors set to come on at similar cut in pressure levels, and the regulator output pressure for the HVLP set at least 5 PSI below the lowest cut in pressure? As long as both compressors together can deliver more air than the HVLP is using, then you shouldn’t have to stop spraying because a compressor kicks on. The regulator is supposed to cushion the downstream air flow from rapid air pressure changes.
What’s missing information wise as far as I can see is the flow and pressure requirements of your HVLP?
Also, you’ve got a bunch of products in line to the HVLP gun, and each of those is affecting the volume of air that gets delivered to the spray gun.
Bottom line is, though, if you’ve got lots of CFM coming from the two compressors, and the HVLP is getting the flow it needs, I would begin to suspect the regulator may be having an issue.
I have a 30 gallon vertical husky air compressor.It starts & runs but never gets over 30 pounds of pressure and runs continuously.Any ideas?
Yeah, mine did to and upon a tear down inspection I found that the rubber piston o ring was torn. My 2007 Q30 series 30 gallon compressors piston ring is just a rubber oring, not sure if it’s a special type or not but I’m trying to find a replacement part/parts now.
Sure. Go here on this site:
Scroll down to the section about pressure and flow problems, and follow the link about compressors that don’t build pressure.
Let us know what you found on your compressor if you would.
My Husky air compressor will not turn on, it seems the on/off switch is broken. How can this be fixed?
Just have a look at this page, John: http://fix-my-compressor.com/broken-compressor-on-off-switch/
I have the 80 gallon 3 cylinder compressor and was wondering if I can or should reduce the cut out pressure from 155PSI down to 140 PSI. I have no need of higher pressures and it makes sense it would be easier on the motor at a lower pressure. It comes factory set at 155.
Hi Chris. You certainly can do so if your pressure switch is an adjustable kind.
If this were my compressor, I wouldn’t, however. Why? It’s built to the standards you received it at, and, you knock the pressure down to the air-using application with the air regulator, not the pressure switch. A higher charge of air will last longer, then the compressor won’t run as often, and you would be using it as it was designed to be used.
My advise is always run the air tools at their absolute minimum operating pressure that does the job and that you can dial them down to. That will do more for compressor life, and tool life, and energy savings than messing with adjusting the pressure switch.
Can you tell me where I might find a model number on my Husky Pro air compressor? It is a 2 stage, 80 gallon, 7HP stationary.
Could be a TF2912. But then, that depends on how old it is. Be good if you would let us know that, and also, add a couple of photos of the compressor when you add a comment, if you would. Thanks.
I have a Husky WL660800AJ and the motor never cuts off…..is my problem more likely the pressure switch or the exhaust tube?
I have this same compressor and the same problem. My gauge never gets above 20 PSI and I have let it run for longer than a half hour before shutting it off. I cannot seem to find a manual anywhere. Just wondering if you might have any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I’d say, based on what you’ve written, that your compressor pump needs a pump rebuild kit.
With the air compressor running, does the air pressure in the tank never reach the normal cut out pressure, or does the pressure rise past the normal pressure stopping point and keep rising, please Vicki?
Where do i find rebuild kits for these cheap pumps? There has to be a genaric standard bore / piston kit for these slip in pistons….just wondering if u could point me in the right direction.
…Wish i had a metal mill ‘n lathe in the shop..i would just make my own
Browsing “pump rebuild kits for husky air compressors” found a few sites that offered them. But then, you’ll need to know the model number of the pump (or compressor model) to find one that suits.
Yeah, there was a time when we’d build everything we needed to rebuild stuff, but then, the price dropped from $1,000’s to a couple of hundred, and the cost of making them outstripped the cost of the units new.
I have a Husky 20 gal. Compressor. Replaced a stuck (open) pressure relief valve . Then replaced the pressure switch that cuts off power to the motor when pressure builds to the ”cutoff” poiint. I have not been able to determine the cutoff pressure level setting in the operator manual.
Now the motor generates pressure (seemingly) past the cutoff threshold until the pressure relief valve is tripped. (about 170 psi) and continues to run, releasing air thru the PRV. How can I determine the cutoff setting or test if my pressure switch is good?
When you replaced the pressure switch, what were the switch settings on the new one? If the pressure switch is not reacting at the pressure reached in the tank, then the pressure switch is suspect. If the settings were higher on the high pressure side, that could be why.
Is it an adjustable switch?
If the PRV is letting go at 175 PSI, 150 PSI would be a safe pressure for the compressor and tank based on the fact that the PRV that came with the compressor cracks at 175 PSI.
Knowing the model number of the compressor would help determining the normal operating parameters.
I have a Husky Ta-2530b Air compressor that needs a few parts replaced but I’m having a hard time finding a source for parts for this model. any ideas where to look?
That model compressor seems similar to other brands and models. The issue really is, what parts are you looking for? Many of the parts on this compressor are generic, and as long as the replacement does the same job, fits the compressor, you can use them. Please provide details about what you are looking for, will you?
I have a 20 gallon vertical husky compressor
I think the regulator is broke. When the compressor fills up to tank pressure of 150 the tool pressure reads 150 too. If I try to turn the tool pressure down to anything below 150 air comes out the valve And the tool pressure stays at 150. Not sure what I need to fix it.
A regulator vents air to lower downstream air pressure when the regulator is dialed down.
If the air vents when the regulator is dialed down, that suggests it’s working… therefore, can you swap gauges to make sure the gauge works? Dump the air first though.
If the gauges are fine, the easiest (lowest cost and aggravation) may be to replace the regulator.
To clarify on my comment about the regulator.
When I try to dial the pressure down yes the air comes out, but the pressure does not drop for the tool. The tank and tool pressure remains at 150.
So, if that’s the case, where is the air coming from, or rather, where is the air coming out of?
There is a hole behind the regulator Handel that lets the air out when normally adjusting the air pressure of the tool down. The tank holds 150 psi, and I normal set the tools around 100. When I turned the compressor on today the thing kept running and wouldn’t shut off. The tank read 150, and the tool read 100 with air comming out the hole behind the regulator Handel. The compressure should have shut off when the tool pressure reached 100 ( that’s where it’s always set to) I turned the Handel to increase the tool pressure above 100, and the air kept comming out. The air didn’t stop comming out said hole till the tool pressure was at 150. Same as the tank.
Rob, the regulator, if that’s what we are talking about, does not turn on or turn off the compressor. That job is handled by the pressure switch.
If the compressor has a normal cut out of 1509 PSI, changing the setting on the regulator will not change that. The regulator’s job is to lower the pressure so the air tool gets the optimal pressure for it to work at. Usually that’s in the 75-90 PSI range, but that depends on the tool.
So if you think that turning the handle of the regulator turns the compressor on and off, nope, it doesn’t.
If you turn the regulator handle to adjust the pressure down, that’s lowering the pressure to the air tool. If adjusting the handle doesn’t do that, if the regulator stays at 150 PSI, then either the regulator is not being adjusted the right way or it’s not working.
Your not understanding me whatsoever. Never mind I will fix it my self without a lecture about how a compressor works. No thank you
Sure, and sorry I didn’t understand what you meant. Good luck.
I have a Husky 8 gallon, 125 psi, 1.5 hp compressor. It was running fine but suddenly stopped blowing air completely. It’s not pumping air into the tank. What should I check to see if it can’t be fixed? I’ve checked the hose connection but don’t know what to check nest. Any suggestions?
Jerry, please visit the troubleshooting page and have a look at the pages that apply to this issue. Add a comment if the answer isn’t there, won’t you?
I have a Husky h1820f that needs a rebuild kit for the compressor; including o ring, revalue kit gaskets & air filter. I can’t find where to get these parts. When I called Husky customer service, they couldn’t find the model of that compressor (9415349). They gave me the telephone number of New air. I called them and I had to leave a message. My compressor was made in China. Can you assist me.
That number appears to be the pump / motor assembly for an air compressor that was made for Fini, FNA, Kobalt, Lefoo, Lefoo & WuxiHX, Rockworth air compressor brands. So, same compressor, same factory, branded for seven different “makes” of compressor. This trend of fewer and fewer manufacturers, almost or all located off shore, seems to be continuing.
Unfortunately, there does not appear to be any source for after market parts for this pump / motor assembly which currently sells on line for about $160. So, buy the whole assembly, tear the old one down and try to source individual parts from various sources, make some of your own or junk the compressor and either buy a more industrially oriented compressor that has a parts supply for the future, or reconcile yourself to the fact that cheap compressors appear to be meant to be thrown away, and buy another of that ilk and steel yourself to, in time, throw that one away too, as they do break. Sorry.
I have a husky h1506 fwh compressor which doesn’t turn off at 135psi and the pressure relief valve blows open. I replaced the pressure switch and still having same issue. Only two wires lead to the switch and tried to connect both ways with no luck any other recommendations
Tom, your question has been moved to the Husky compressor page.
I couldn’t locate the specs for the H1506. What is the normal cut off pressure for this compressor? I am guessing that it’s 135 PSI as per your question, but am not sure.
At what pressure is the PRV cracking open?
I did see some sources for the pressure switch on line, but couldn’t tell if, when you ordered yours, if the switch came with a spec sheet telling you the cut in and cut off settings for that switch?
The bottom line is, if power is flowing through the switch to the motor circuit and the pressure in the tank exceeds the normal cut out pressure for that switch, then the switch has to be the problem. You may have acquired a bum one, then.
Hello. I have a 3 year old c331h compressor that stopped working again. It gets very little use, so I don’t want to pay to have it fixed again. I took the cover off and found that the flywheel and the control arm (piston) are rubbing together and have seized up. Is this a known problem? If so, is it generally a flywheel issue or a control arm replacement issue? Flywheel appears to be spinning straight when the control arm is disconnected. Thanks in advance for any information.
Hello. I have a HUSKY air compressor and we are in search of some parts. Model #VT631400AJ, Serial #L5/17/2000-00406 capacity of 60 gallons. Its for an air pressure switch CW207579AV and for an air pressure relief valve
Hi Alex. While I suspect you can find an OEM version of the switch, there is nothing unique about it, and if you Google compressor pressure switches and compare them with yours, you’ll find one quickly enough. As to the PRV, also the same. Google compressor pressure relief valve and pick one with the same cracking point of yours.
so they don’t necessarily have to be husky brand in order to work? and if not any recommendations as to where to find/order these parts from. We have tried various Home Depots nearby already and none have seem to have them
Northern Tool Co. Carries what you need
Unless the compressor is under warranty, buy the parts where you can, since that won’t negate any guarantee. If you Google the specific parts you are looking for you’ll find many sources. Since I don’t know where you are or what suppliers you have available, on line is your best bet.
Hello, I have a 2-1/2 year old Husky #C201H. 20 gallon compressor. While using it to fill air in my tire one day it started to stall then smoke from the top. I managed to shut it off and the next day was able to turn it back on but it stalled after about 3-5 seconds, and now won’t start at all. Very light use and no longer under warranty. Any idea what could be the problem?
Can you provide a bit more clarification of what you mean by “smoke from the top”? Also, when it restarted the next day, did it start easily? Did it build any pressure? And when you say it stalled, what did you mean… that the motor was running but the pump wasn’t pumping… what exactly? Thanks.
Smoke from the vents (motor area). The next day it started when I pressed the switch but only for a few seconds and then shut off so no time for pressure to build. Not sure if the pump was pumping because the cover was still on. Now it won’t even start.
Sounds like a brush or shorted wiring issue on the motor, John. If power is getting to the motor from the pressure switch, and power is flowing through the capacitor to the motor, my money is on the motor as being the problem. That could be an expensive fix.
John, I have exactly the same model compressor and had exactly the same problem after 2yrs 5 months. I turned it off as soon as it started smoking. I took the cover off of the motor and turned it on momentarily as I observed a small flame coming out of the area where the top brush contacts the armature of the motor. I have tried without luck to find who manufactures this motor (part # E108560) and have been unable to find carbon brushes that match. The best I have been able find are replacement motor/pump assemblies on Ebay that sell for about $100. If anyone has better information on where I can find brushes I would be interested. Thanks.
On further research I found that the Husky C201H is manufactured by MAT Industries. I called their customer service department and they connected me with the parts department. They confirmed that they manufactured the motor/pump assembly but do not sell the carbon brushes separately. They ONLY sell the motor/pump assembly as a complete unit and the price is $175 before shipping. Better prices on ebay.
When I turn my compressor it builds up the pressure an when it goes down to cut on point it will not come on what is my problem
Howdy Charlie. Not an unusual problem unless there’s something really weird with your compressor. Not knowing the make and model makes it difficult to be specific, but I can tell you if you read this page there will be things that you can check to help isolate the problem. When you’ve done that, please add a comment and let us know what you found, K?
I have a Husky C302H that started to spray a fine oil coat around a plastic line that goes into the tank. Does something need tightened?
There shouldn’t be any oil blowing out of “the plastic line that goes into the tank” as far as I know. However, I cannot determine what the line is you refer to. Please add a couple of photos in a comment showing the location where the oil is coming out, and where the line is plumbed from. Thanks.
It may be the metal line. I have not had chance to fill up the crankcase and run it after I wiped it down yet.
I will let u know
What information will Husky or Home depot need to look up the warranty of my compressor? I can’t find my receipt. The compressor is only 1-2 yrs old & it’s not working. Who would I need to contact?
They’ll want the model number, Mel. At 1-2 years old, I’d be surprised if it’s still under warranty, but since I don’t know the model I cannot check. How is it not working, please… rather, what’s not happening when you switch it on?
What is the life time for a 8 gallon air compressor?
How long is a piece of string, Israel? 🙂 Thing is, are you using it all day every day, or once every 3-4 months. Not knowing your usage patterns makes it impossible to guess. If you are using it according to its manual, then the life of the warranty, and maybe another year or two… again, depending on the use.
So I found a video and I found this inline breaker. When it gets hot it cuts the compressor off. Only gets up to 90psi. I can’t find a replacement breaker. This is a husky 516-051. Thought about Straight wiring it.
I suspect that the problem isn’t the breaker / fuse, but the fact that the motor is laboring and overheating. Could be pump related, could be motor capacitor related. Best to check those as a motor that cuts out on heat related overload won’t last long if the core issue isn’t fixed, and it’s hard wired without the breaker / fuse.
Y have model y6020-wk it build air up to 40 pounds don’t go higher in that.
Pablo, go here: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/ and scroll down to the section about compressors that don’t start / don’t stop. The things to check are already noted on those pages. If you still need help, ask a specific question about what you found when you did the checks referred to there.
I have a Husky 10 gallon air compressor that leaks oil from under the motor housing whenever the motor is running ?
Hello did you get the problem with the oil leak from under the motor fixed i have the same problem with a 10 galon one aswell
George, please add a comment with a couple of photos of where the oil is leaking from. There’s no oil in the motor, could be leakage from a burnt capacitor, but I suspect the oil is leaking from the oil sump, assuming this is an oil lubed air compressor. What’s the make and model number please?
I have the same problem i pulled apart the compressor and the oil seems to be coming trough the bearing on the shaft between the motor and the oil sump. Should this be a sealed bearing ?
If oil is leaking from a bearing, then either the bearing is gone or the seal is gone. I don’t know which as I haven’t torn this one down.
When on it seems to be getting louder so is there a way to check or change oil? If it even takes oil
Unfortunately, your photos (thanks for those) didn’t show the Husky compressor model number, so I can’t reference that. From the look of it however, the whole pump is shrouded in plastic, yes? If so, and there is no obvious oil fill port, no available oil sight glass or dipstick, odds are good that’s if factory lubed for life. The model number would tell us for sure, I expect.
As to it getting louder, while until the pump is torn down to check and be sure, this issue is often related to a failed or failing valve or gasket in the pump head. If that’s the case, it’s time for a pump rebuild kit. If you choose to do that, you’ll start by sourcing the rebuild kit by Googling “parts for xxxxx” where is the the Husky name and model number of your compressor.
I am trying to get the cowling off my Husky i.8 20 gal upright. I have removed the screws and labels but it will not release so I can get to the pressure regulator which will not switch off.
Please provide, as a comment here, a picture of the compressor taken from two sides so we can see if someone can help.
Thank you my father in law came by and showed me the two bolts I had missed. All is working correctly now. Thanks again.
I have a 15 yeat old 2 hp 135 psi husky. It’s never compressed more than 50 lbs, but I have only ever used for pumping up tires. Now I have a nail gun, and guess what – not enough pressure. It pumps nicely to 50 psi and then cuts off, until it gets to about 20 lbs, then usually kicks back on, but sometimes I have to unplug for 10 minutes and then it will pump to 50 lbs. Are their “hidden” adjustments on this unit somewhere to increase psi or Is this a pressure switch problem? Will most any pressure switch work?
Thanks in advance?
If the compressor is supposed to cut out at 135 PSI, and it only gets to 20 PSI and then cuts out, it’s likely a motor issue, not necessarily a pressure switch issue. You’ll want to check the motor capacitor(s) to see if they are the problem.
I have a Husky C201H Air Compressor, Outlet tube has got so hot it melted the O-ring. Try Auto AC O-ring with no luck, Outlet tube keeps blowing out. Anyone if buying tubing and flaring each end would work better. Also any way of adjusting tank PSI?
!!UPDATE!! Outlet tube blowing out.: After trying several different o-rings / high temps etc with no luck.. I used a brake line flairing tool to flair the end of the tube. I mentioned it below but did not give it a good work out until these past two weeks. used daily for 2 hours at a time running a hvlp paint gun.. NO BLOW OUT! ..very happy.
First time I went looking for replacement O-rings, I immediately ran into a “replacement part for defective manufacturer part”. It was a heat-resistant flexible hose with the proper fittings attached – and it was less than $14.00 !!! Idiot I am, I didnt bookmark it. I have spent at least 3 hours trying to find it again. If anyone comes across it, I’d be much obliged if you replied to this comment with the website!
Phil, it sounds as tough your compressor may be running a lot longer to get to the cut out pressure setting than it used to. Is it? If so, you need to work on the pump too, and that will allow it to pump to cut out without overheating.
Any chance you could provide me with more details about the repairs.
Pretty hard without knowing what the actual issue is. The troubleshooting pages on this site offer guidance on a host of problems relating to why air compressor run too long. Rather than retyping them all here, perhaps have a read of those pages and then come back with a specific issue? As it pertains to the outlet tube, if you determine the the connection sizes a good plumbing supply shop (not a big box store) could fabricate one for you out of soft copper, complete with compression or flare fittings, or you could try doing so yourself.
I have the same problem. I tried high temperature o-rings and it still melts and blows out of the fitting………… mine blows out sometimes not running long and before reaching 100psi so it’s not the cutout pressure setting.
After trying several different O-rings, I finally put a brass compression sleeve and nut (from the plumbing aisle). Be sure to use a good three wraps of teflon tape on the male end coming out of the pump. This will prevent the vibration of the motor from loosening the nut.. Works 1000 times better now.
Stevan I have been having the same problem. I’m a novice at this. Tried a bunch of different o rings but to no luck. DO you mind posting picture or a link to the parts that you used to help with your fix. Thanks for any help
That’s probably what I’m gonna end up doing. (getting a brass compression sleeve.) I used a brake line flaring tool and flared the end more. Holds a little better but I haven’t gave it a good run yet.
Regarding the “I have a Husky C201H Air Compressor, Outlet tube has got so hot it melted the O-ring, Aaron”, aside from this important issue, is the compressor running fine otherwise? And at what pressure is it blowing the line out of the fitting?
You note that your compressor isn’t running all that long, and it’s blowing the fitting out before the pressure gets to 100 PSI, but how long is it taking for that tank pressure to be achieved? Longer than it was, same time frame… which?
You see, compressing air generates lots of heat. The components on the compressor are designed (at least in theory) to withstand the heat generated when everything is working fine. But if the compressor has, for example, a valve problem in the pump that affects the speed with which air is generated into the tank, then the compressor will run much longer than is “normal” for that model, and the head of the pump overheats, the fitting gets very, very hot, and the tube blows out.
I still believe that the problem may not be the design, rather, a failure has occurred in the pump that is forcing it to run longer and longer to build pressure, and that’s where the overheating is coming from… a problem in the pump and will need to be addressed.
Or, it could be just a design flaw. That being the case, you’ll want to remove fittings top and bottom and replace them with those that will handle a metal tube like soft copper. Thoughts?
I have a 33 gallon model number 516-051 , I have replaced the pressure regulator switch and power switch. The problem is it will not shut off when it reaches 150 lbs. It will go up to 165 lbs. and the pressure release valve will blow or pop. Please help if you can. Thank you in advance
I take it 150 PSI is the normal cut out? If the pressure bypasses that and ultimately the PRV lets go, then it pretty much has to be the switch. Things to check are that it’s wired correctly, and if the cut in and cut out settings are the same. Just because you may have acquired the same switch doesn’t necessarily mean that the settings are the same. If the switch wiring is correct, can you adjust the cut out setting the switch you acquired?
I have a #e2s20vwd and it does not cut off at the 150 psi and the prv lets go. It’s been running great for a long time. How do I chect the cut in and cut out settings. What could have changed? Was fine this morning and then prv lets go?
Does anyone know if a tool is available that would let me use my 3 gallon Husky air compressor (model L13HPD) as a power washer? I realize it woudln’t be real powerful but might be enough for my needs.
I have a Husky Q26, model #153-0148, portable compressor and the piston ring has gone bad. Where can I find a replacement part? The number I am finding on the piston is, 048-0103 REV-A.
I just call husky, they always send me whatever it is that’s needed.
Many OEM parts supply for Husky compressors appear to be in either short supply or not available. You might try these folks: https://tricitytoolparts.com
Failing that, can you get accurate measurements off the old ring? If so, it’s a good possibility that if you Google the piston ring dimensions you’ll find an off-brand ring that will suit. Good luck.
my Husky model C201H Portable Oil-Free Direct-Drive Electric Air Compressor wont turn on. I checked the cord and switch and they are good
It helps when folks can see the compressor being asked about, so I’ve uploaded an image of the C201H.
When you say your ON/OFF switch is good, you used a meter? With the tank empty, the power should be flowing past the ON/OFF switch, to the pressure switch. Please check on the motor side of the pressure switch to ensure that power is getting past that pressure switch, and let us know. Then we’ll press on. Thanks.
My Husky compressor is maybe a year old and I don’t use it much but it has always worked well when I needed it. The other day I plugged it in to an extension cord (yea, I know better) and it came on but ran like it was struggling to stay on and almost died then kicked back up a little and started to die again before I shut it off with the on/off switch. Now it will not come back on. There is no “click” in the switch. it moves freely between on/off. Is the switch some sort of a circuit breaker? If so how do I reset it? It is a model 947265. I have let it sit in the off position, and the on position. Plugged and unplugged. tried multiple outlets that I Know work and nothing. I’m sure it was too much of a draw when I used the extension cord but could it have burned out the switch?
Hi Joseph. Yes indeed, the pressure switch is a “circuit breaker” albeit a manual one. With the tank empty, cover off the pressure switch, and with a volt meter of some sort, can you check to see if there is power on the plug side and also power on the motor side of the pressure switch? If not, my assumption would be that the pressure switch has failed. Give us an update please.
my 8 gallon compressor wont build up pressure its brand new. I tried replacing the flow valve and that did not help either just took it out of the box and home depot refuses to do anything about it i tried emailing them and the email keeps on bouncing back suggestions would be a great help, thanks
If it’s new and you have the receipt, take it back to the store for a replacement or refund. What’s the model number?
So, it’s running, but no pressure builds in the tank, is that correct? What is the “flow valve” you replaced? I don’t understand that part name. Dennis, questions are responded to on the site for all to see, I don’t email individuals with answers, as the problem your compressor is having may be shared by other persons with the same make and model. Please provide more info as a comment here.
they refused to take it back or exchange
I have a 33 gallon, 1.7 hp 150 psi, upright Husky air compressor (model# 516-051, 15, 120 V, 15A)
When I turn it on, it runs for a little bit, and then is cuts off. If I turn the power switch off and on, it still won’t come on. However, if I turn it off and wait for at least 40 seconds, it will come on again for a short time. I can repeat this until I have reached 150 psi. The tank will hold the pressure for weeks. Any thoughts on what might be wrong with it? What part do I need to replace? The on/off switch, the pressure switch, the capacitor? Any help is appreciated.
Peter, pop on over to this page: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/ and read the pages about air compressors that have the issue yours does. When done, either they will have helped you identify the issue, or, please add a comment telling us what you found when you did the checks referred to there.
Husky y6020 wk now barely pumps to 80 psi. Where could I get it repaired?
Depends on what’s wrong with it and where you are, Leslie. Rumor has it that these pumps were built for Home Depot by Campbell Hausfeld, so you could check with them: chpower.com . There are some parts for this pump available on line if you choose to delve into repair yourself. You might want to look at the compressor troubleshooting pages on this site for some of the reasons why an air compressor can run but not build pressure for some guidance too.
I have a Husky Compressor model # C301H. I have air coming from a black “L” under the pressure regulator, the “L” is attached to the tank with a plastic hose. The pressure regulator is brand new. I replaced it thinking that would solve my problem, but it didnt.
Larry, leaking when the compressor is running, or when it’s off? If it’s leaking when it’s running that could point to a regulator diaphragm failure. However, since yours is new, please check to be sure that the arrow on the body of the regulator is pointing towards the coupling where you plug in the tool air line. If that’s good, then dump all the air with the compressor off, and double check that the tank check isn’t leaking.
I’m trying to find a belt for my husky air compressor can anyone help me the part number is Ac-0815-dayco 62-1161
The logical step would be to contact Dayco, but after you’ve looked at this page of there’s: https://www.daycoaftermarket.com/en/product-category/industrial/drive-rite/
Have a look at the images and click on the one that has the same profile (V-belt – no teeth on the inside I suspect). Measure the length of your old belt, the width, how deep it is, and give them a call. I’m sure they can get you a replacement.
Hi I’ve got a 33 gallon m#516-051 when plugged in I seem to get no response when turned on how can I diagnose the problem?
Sure. I couldn’t find the model number at Husky compressors Colten so please confirm that this is a Husky air compressor. Maybe upload a photo. In any case, go here for tips on diagnosing this problem, and then add a comment with what you found, will you?
i have a Husky C303H compressor.
it would run up to a pressure, different each time,
and i noticed that as the pressure decreased, the unit would not kick back on to build the pressure back up in the tank.
I bought a new pressure switch, but this was not the problem.
The issue is with the thermal protection (cut out) switch.
I found it ( Thermtrol SM7AM030A5).
I pulled it out as far as i could, without disconnecting it, and tried cooling it with a stream of air, and the motor started.
The question is, it this a write off? or can get a replacement part?
John, buying a replacement thermal switch is tricky if you don’t know the settings of your own. I would suspect that many if not all Husky compressor motors have a similar thermal cut out, and therefore, acquiring one from another model might do it. You have asked Husky for help? Another source would be an electric motor rebuild shop, one of which would be near where you are I would expect. Please let us know the outcome of your search.
Does anyone know what oil to use for an 80gal husky compressor?
An 80 gallon compressor refers to the tank size and has nothing to do with what pump your compressor has. A model number, in particular if the model is still available, would certainly help. Please give us more information to identify which model of Husky you have, and that should lead to identifying what oil.
Sorry, I thought that compressor oil would be rather generic. The model is HS78 1004AJ
Well, it seems Husky hasn’t heard of a model HS78 1004AJ, nor is there any presence for this model on the internet that I can find. I asked about the model as when possible I try to check the specs to be sure about advice. Since I cannot find any, then all I can surmise is that you use Compressor Lubricating Oil (not automotive oil) which is fairly generic and available at any compressor sales outlet.
I have a Husky C801H Air Compressor that needs a new motor and there seems to no replacement from Husky. Where can I get a new motor to install
Do you have the old motor? If not, the info I’ve found shows that the original had a 5 HP motor. Therefore, assuming you have the motor sheave, you can spec any motor that 230 Volt that has the same shaft size as the original motor sheave. However, not knowing the RPM of the original means you could either over-speed the pump, or under drive it, meaning that the original air delivery promised of 16.1 CFM at 40 PSI and 14 CFM at 90 PSI may not be achievable, and, if the pump is driven too fast, damage can result. I did find one on Ebay. You might contact the seller and ask if they could provide more info about the unit they have for sale. They say it’s new. I used the search string “Buy Husky 5-HP 80-Gallon 3-Cylinder Single-Stage Air Compressor” to find what info I could.If you drill down a few pages you’ll find a review, and even more info, and some of those folks might be able to answer your questions.
I have a husky 25 gal 5.2 hp model no. D29626 with a date code of 10-13-03 home Depot does not recognize that part # I need the belt for the motor the belt manufacturer is Carlisle part no. 62-1161
Like yourself Todd, I can’t find any info on that belt. However, you can certainly contact Carlisle if you have not done so, and tell their customer support that you have a belt from them on a Husky compressor, and the part number. I think you’ll find that the model number of the belt is Husky’s, not Carlisles, though I do expect that Carlisle should be able to help. Contact info is:
2601 West Battlefield Road
Springfield, MO 65807
Belt Customer Service USA: 866-773-2926
Belt Customer Service Canada: 866-797-2358
Let us know if it works out for you, will you?
Thanks for the information, I think I may have found the correct belt on Amazon. I should get it in a few days, if not I will try contacting Timken belts. Thanks again.
I have a Husky (Model No. 395-226) 1 HP, 3-gallon compressor with 50% duty cycle.
Manual spec’s state:
Cut-in Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 PSI
Cut-out Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 PSI
SCFM @ 90 PSI. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.4
It’s been babied (occasional tire inflations and clean up),
I now have use of a rivet gun which spec’s are:
Average air consumption 4.5 CFM @ 90 PSI
Working pressure (psi) 90-120
Noticing that the CFM of the rivet gun is twice that of the compressor, I read:
…and wondering if adding my dad’s old 5-gallon tank will allow me to safely use the gun with my compressor.
Yup, it will help. Will it provide enough CFM to do the job… good question. A rivet gun will fire, then wait until the trigger is pulled again. If you don’t pull the trigger too often, there may not be a need to add a tank. As long as the pressure to the gun is above the minimum operating pressure, the rivet gun will fire. Use it, watch the tank gauge, and if the pressure doesn’t drop too far, fire it again. It may be a trade off for speed against enough air, but if you are not in a hurry, I expect that you’ll be OK with the one tank. Let me know, will you?
Unfortunately the speed trade off was counter productive. I suppose I could’ve rigged up the extra tank but luckily I found a 15 Gallon Porter Cable at Goodwill.
Thanks for the update, Bill.
I have a Husky model 947265 that will not stop filling. I’ve replaced the pressure switch and it still keeps filling to the point were the safety valve blows.
What are some other possible causes for this problem
If it’s a new switch, double check the wiring, please. If power continues to flow to the motor circuit when the tank pressure reaches the correct shut off point (make sure you know what the pressure settings of the replacement switch are) and the pressure switch does not cut the power, then either it’s still a faulty switch or the wiring is wrong.
Wiring is correct, settings are correct. So the only possible solution is the new switch is bad?
Unfortunately, yes. Try emptying the tank, pulling the switch cover, firing up the compressor, and watching inside the switch to see if there is any movement when the tank pressure reaches near the cut out pressure. I don’t know your compressor model and haven’t seen the switch, so I’m hoping that you can do this. If the pressure bypasses the cut out pressure by more than 10 PSI, and do let it run that far, then it’s pretty much got to be the switch.
I have a Husky 6 Gal 135 PSI H1506F air compressor. It has just started acting up. It will not go past 25 psi, even though the motor is running and running. Not sure what to do. Any help is appreciated.
Maybe you could have a look at this page and then add a comment with what you found?
I have a 60 gal. Husky air compressor with a 7 HP motor. It is a single stage 220 v set up. The motor has died. Other than purchasing a new compressor, would it be feasible to replace the motor & if so, what would you recommend.
Tom, there are scads of motor suppliers. Google compressor motor xx HP and you’ll find many. Just make sure the shaft diameter is comparable, the HP is the same or larger, the voltage is comparable, and you can actually mount it to your compressor. You can, if the price suggests it’s feasible, replace the compressor, but since I can’t compare it’s cost to that of the new motor you’ll want, you’ll need to decide that for yourself.
I have a 80 gallon huskey air compressor and it came with a 4 horse power motor which burned out….I am looking for another motor just the same….does anyone know where I can find one….can’t seem to find one on the net……
Jose, I’m a bit puzzled by your comment. Are you saying you cannot find one branded Husky? I was able to find a number of 4 HP electric motors on line. As long as you can mount the motor on the compressor, and the RPM of the new is the same as the old (or you adjust the sheaves appropriately) and you have the correct power supply, I don’t see the issue?
I have a Husky 835 522 (VLH1583009.01), 30 gallon oil-less compressor. It builds to about 80 PSI, then continues to run but no longer builds pressure. I believe I found the problem, being a bad compression ring on the piston. However, the Husky recommended parts places show that this part is no longer available (discontinued / obsolete). Neither the ring on its own nor the entire piston is available. Is there another model I can search that would be the same part? Or how else could I fix this?
Hi Matt, what a pain, huh? Go through tearing down the pump, finding the worn part, and now no source. All I can say is if there is enough of the old ring to measure O.D., I.D., ring thickness, ring shape (look at the edge to see if there is anything unusual, and then Google “replacement piston ring xxxx diameter, you will find many non OEM sources. Good luck.