Sanborn air compressors have been around for a while, changing ownership quite regularly during this course. This article will aim to provide you with all the necessary information about Sanborn air compressors, who makes them, contact information and where to source replacement parts!
Table of Contents
Sanborn Air Compressor Information
What Do We Know About Sanborn Air Compressors?
A while before 2008, Sanborn was known as Black Max air compressors before being purchased by Coleman Powermate. Since then, they, along with Coleman Powermate, are now owned and made by a company called MAT holdings who, on their about page, state this:
“World-class domestic manufacturing facilities allow MAT Industries to offer high-quality air compressors, air tools, and accessories to retailers under brands such as … Sanborn® as well as private label. Our air compressors are sold through retailers including major home centers, hardware co-ops, independents, and farm and fleet stores around the US. “
They also claim to be made proudly in the USA, but then… assembled from parts globally. I take that to mean that the low-end versions of Sanborn compressors are imported from offshore and something is done to them here to allow them to claim that they are “made in America”. I stand to be corrected if I am not correct on that.
Who Makes Sanborn Air Compressors?
Sanborn used to make their own and very popular Black Max compressor range in their factory in Springfield, Minnesota. Since 1994 the company Coleman Powermate bought Sanborn and the Black Max air compressor name.
The Sanborn / Black Max compressor range isn’t actually sold anymore. Spareparts and second-hand units can still be bought online with adequate research. Since 2008, when Coleman Powermate filed for bankruptcy, MAT Industries now produces the Coleman Powermate range.
Sanborn Air Compressor Parts
The problem with Sanborn air compressors as I see it is that they are aimed at the small workshop/homeowner market. Typical for that market segment is often a limited supply of after-sale compressor parts, at least, those that are unique to the Sanborn model. Valve plates, pump gaskets, pistons, and cranks come to mind.
Like other manufacturers, however, a lot of the external parts can be sourced elsewhere as they are pretty much across-industry standards. Things like pressure switches, unloader valves, PRV’s, regulators, and the like.
This means that someone unfamiliar with fixing compressors that are looking for unique Sanborn compressor parts may have a problem finding them. Here is an Sanborn regulator manifold kit readily available on Amazon.
- Fits air compressor parts: 84A150, 104200, 104A200-22, 112A300, 143A400, 400A30H, 34A50, 34B50
- Fits air compressor manifold parts: P0502010, CP0502010
- Regulator parts for older belt driven units
- Parts: 64BL100, 64BL150, 89BL200, P0302013, P3001113, P0502013, P0502513
Last update on 2024-03-26 at 22:08 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
Sanborn Air Compressor Contact
Is that you? Is your Sanborn compressor down and do you need parts that are not available off-brand? Want to try and get some help from MAT holdings about your Sanborn air compressor?
Call them at: (847) 821-9630. During business hours – this reaches their office in Illinois.
You might also try emailing: info@matholdingsinc.com.
Another great option is contacting powermate or visiting their website for help!
Powermate
800 Hinesburg Road
South Burlington
Vermont 05403 USA
W:Powermate.com
T: 1-888-440-5170
If Fix My Compressor can be of any help to you and your Sanborn query, please leave a question below and someone will get back to you.
My compressor won’t start without help. If I’m not standing there it will blow the breaker. I believe it’s the unloader valve. Where can I get one or a suitable replacement
looking for cylinder head bolt torque spec ? sandborn model #la3706056
MY DAD AND I HAVE AN OLD SANBORN MODEL 500A60 HE BOUGHT NEW. IT IS NOW HAVING A PROBLEM BULDING PRESSURE. EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS GREAT BUT IT WILL RUN FOREVER AND ONLY GET UP TO AROUND 40PSI. WHAT WOULD CAUSE THIS?
I am looking for replacement compressor for Sanborn B500BPL60V. Still runs. First 5 min or so, it’s fine. The it gets SUPER noisy. This is a single stage compressor. Is a twin stage available that will be close to direct replacement?
I have a Sanborn Model #M104CG5-20
Serial # M2950032. It had not run for about 25 years. I did what I needed to do to the motor to get it running again. When I got it all done, up and running, I noticed that there was an air line coming from around the compressor and the regulator area. it went around the pull start side of the Briggs & Stratton 5 HP motor. I’m guessing that it fastened somewhere in the linkage, the throttle control on the back of the Briggs. But I have no idea where it fastened. There is a picture of the actual part that is available new. That is the part that I have hook to the end of the airline. I just have no idea where it attaches to the throttle control to do anything Any help would be appreciated. I don’t want to blow something up because a throttle regulator was not properly installed. Thanks again. A schematic would be super.
I have a 1985 Sanborn compressor model number 500B60H and serial number F2420264. I am looking for a head gasket set and unable to find one. I hope you can help or guide me in the right direction. Thanks
sanborn 22gal model B109BLR300-22, no air where do I get repair kit
I have a Sanborn model v89a150-22. Trying to find how to match up some parts. I need a wrist pin both sets of rings and probably new springs in the “flappers” it does not have valves just a small metal disk supported by a spring. Any help would be appreciated
I have a Sanborn 3/4hp model m75a. I need a pressure regulator that screws into the top of the unit. do you know if this part is available?
Sanborn model 104B200-14LA . Compressor run good, air tank fills to 120ish; issue: air will not transfer from tank to hose via the pressure control knob. Pressure Control knob/assembly parts numbered 68-74 does not seem to be operating, or, could it be the Pressure Switch (part #77). If either or both need replacing, are the parts available? Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide.
Good morning, I have what I believe to be a Sanborn model 53-22-80V, it’s probably as old as I am (1980s). I am trying to track down a rebuild kit and any sort of manual. I have unsuccessfully found anything pertaining to this model number so far
Hi Rachel. Did you try contacting the folks you get to when you follow this link?
I have a Sanborn B09J500-20 compressor needing a knob assembly 092-0011. It is a discontinued part. Does anyone know of a substitute part that could fix it?
Cydi. Since it does appear as though the knob is discontinued, and the regulator is part of a manifold which, too, is no longer available, your best bet may be to acquire a small, general purpose regulator and install it just upstream from the coupler into which your coupler is connected. Then, disregard the one in the manifold. Thoughts?
That’s what my thought was too. Thanks for confirming.
It sure would be more convenient if there still were parts available!😕
I have the same problem. Did a different regulator solve
this issue? If so, could you tell me what and where I can get one? Thanks
Jeff
I just got an old 5 hp 80 gal 2 stage sanborn from a neighbor it runs very good but does not build enough pressure to stop running. Builds pressure to 125 lbs . When I turn it off ther is no air leaks.
Curtis, hi. Your post was moved here as it more closely relates to this make than were it was originally posted.
That it runs well is very positive. That its an old Sanbord also could speak very well of its longevity and the quality of the original manufacture.
A compressor that runs and won’t build pressure past a certain point points to a pump issue, possibly a gasket leak, possibly a valve, or even a pump piston seal. Please have a look at the page linked here, and also, if you add a comment, what is the model number of the Sanborn compressor you have? Thanks.
I have a Sanborn Black Max model B07F350-13 compressor and the on/off switch is broken. It looks like its part of the manifold assembly and not a separate part. Does anyone know where to get a replacement? Thanks
David, the photos I’ve found of this model don’t show an ON/OFF switch. Would you please take a photo of the compressor, including where the ON/OFF, switch is, and upload it as a comment in this thread? Thanks.
Mine doesn’t either have a power switch
Because I followed the instructions you shared. Took off the intake filter and seemed as though air was pumping out. It then said check the intake valve? And intake plate? Was this not what I was supposed to do? I’m completely green at this! Is this the wrong peice
If air is coming out of the intake port on the compressor, that surely is an indication that the valve in the pump head is not shutting tightly, or is broken, and air is simply being pulled in on the piston cycle and then blown right back out of the intake.
It’s hard to see from the photos. Does the flapper valve sit tight against the plate when at rest? If it’s warped by heat then leakage can occur.
I’m also wondering about the “missing” plate. Typically the valve plate will have two flappers when there are two ports in the plate, one to control the intake, and one to control the pressure side, so that as the compressor cycles, while air is being drawn in, the other plate is pushed against the pressure port, and the reverse when the reverse movement of the piston takes place.
I still would like to know the model number of your compressor to determine if there is a source for a pump kit to answer some of my questions.
I’m not at home so I can check plate tonight. The model is m89bc200? If you find any info on it please let me know! I can’t seem to find much
That model number doesn’t seem to be valid. Please provide a photo or two, front and side at least, of the compressor, and please double check the model number. When did you acquire it too, please. Thanks.
We just bought a house a month ago and this was left behind. Guessing this is the reason they left it, regardless, I’d still like to give it a go and see if I can get er working.
Here is the model number and few shots.
Go to this page and ask them. I suspect the kit shown will work for your compressor, but you need to check.
What kit is it that I want? Besides the regulator kit, what else can I do as you mentioned that this won’t solve my problem?
Should I be looking at a new compressor instead?
Hi Colin. If the valve is allowing air to escape out the intake port while the compressor is running, typically that means a pump rebuild kit which includes valve plate(s) and gaskets. I don’t know why you would consider a regulator repair, as the regulator only regulates air going downstream to the air line and has nothing to do with air build by the pump.
New compressor? Always an option if repairing the old becomes onerous or too expensive.
Because my regulator valve broke off
Okay. Know that the regulator might be a general purpose one ($12 or so on line). If I could see the plumbing, I could tell you for sure.
What do you mean by plumbing?
There is a cover over the plumbing through which the regulator knob is attached. Since I cannot see behind that cover, I don’t know if the regulator is integral or simply plumbed in. If the latter, it’s a reasonably easy fix. If it’s a proprietary regulator in a manifold, that makes it much more difficult.
I’ll send picture tonight
Hello
I have a 30 gallon Sanborn. I currently went to use it and it seemed to take a long time to fill. I looked at psi and it was only at 80. It doesn’t seem like it will fill more than that. I turned the regulator to the right and it snapped off! Do you think it was a faulty regulator that caused the problem? Or could it be worse?
Sorry Colin, it’s not likely the regulator. You’ll want to replace the regulator of course, as that’s the way you control the pressure in the air line to your air tools. That regulator has nothing to do with the pressure your compressor builds, or in your case, doesn’t build. Check this page on this site out, and then add a comment here if you haven’t nailed in down yet.
How can I tell if my valve plate is compromised?
Colin, thanks for uploading the photos with your question. The initial response would be… to be sure, you’ll have to disassemble the pump and take a look, but that, you’ve already done.
At first glance the plate doesn’t look too bad, but I’m wondering about the scratches. Was that an attempt to remove scale, crud etc.?
What were the symptoms of the compressor failure that made you tear down the pump in the first place. Please add a comment to this thread with a bit more info, including the model number of your Sanborn compressor. Thanks.
Where can a guy find the torque specs for the head bolts and the valves on an older cast iron Sanborn compressor ?
Hi Chris. I suspect if you follow this link, and input your zip code, you’ll find a local service center that could help. Coleman Powermate are connected with / make Sanborn air compressors. You’ll need your model number.
I have a old Sanborn Black Max air compressor that was given to me. Unfortunately the motor wont continuously turn the flywheel without the motor over heating and tripping the motor reset. The motor will run forever with the belt removed but it bogs down when the belt is on. I’ve already replaced both capacitors and the switch but I have the same issue. The flywheel will turn by hand with the belt off and there is plenty of oil in the crankcase. Any help you can provide is appreciated.
It suggests that something is backloading the motor past the point of operation. If the caps are good as you say, then the next logical impediment will be in the pump, maybe a pump valve. If it’s a two cylinder compressor, check the intake valve on the second cylinder. Let us know, K?
Thank you for the advice. After pulling one cylinder and then the other cleaning everything up and realizing that was not the problem I pulled the motor itself. Disassembled and cleaned the motor only to find out the compressor can be wired for low or high voltage. I looked at the pictures of the wire placements prior to the motor disassembly and at that point realized is was wired for high voltage. I reworded the compressor for low voltage and it had no issue running I wasn’t getting air out of the hose but after checking a few things the regulator and filter need replaced.
I recently acquired a large Sanborn upright 80 gallon compressor. I will attach a picture of the label for identification purposes. The previous owner just had it wired to an on/off switch. When it got up to the pressure he wanted, he just shut it off. I have plumbed in a pressure switch and a magnetic starter for the 5hp motor on the compressor. When the compressor gets up to the cut out pressure (175 psi) it cuts off but immediately tries to start again, cuts off, tries again, and then trips the breaker in the shop breaker box. This is a 30 amp circuit. The motor is a 24.4 amp motor. I can’t figure out why it’s trying to restart when it reaches the cut out pressure and why it is tripping the breaker. I’m assuming if I can fix the first problem, the second will go away. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Dale, I’m not an electrician, so really cannot offer any valuable advice. I hope that another reader can help, though I fear the issue may need the expertise of a professional.
Coleman Black Max Powermate. Replaced check valve per symptoms.Still tripping circuit breaker upon restarting when air reaches cut in pressure.
Post moved to the Sanborn page, as Black Max and Powermate are part of this organization.
If the compressor starts and runs with no obvious problems with the tank empty, and the fill time is close to the optimal time experienced over the use of the compressor, you’ll want to check the start capacitor. See how on the page about that on this site. Let us know if that was the issue, please?
I have a sanborn 60 gallon 5 hp compressor, when I go to turn it on it sparks from the pressure switch and makes a buzzing noise, wont turn on. power is good at fuse box, the outlet, and pressure switch, the reset button does nothing , please help me, and where could I go to servicing, I live in orland park il. 60462
It sure sounds like the pressure switch is shot. They aren’t that expensive, and changing them out is not a huge job, yet if you are not comfortable with doing maintenance work and working with 240 volt AC power, good that you don’t do it yourself.
If you google “air compressor repair orland park il. 60462” as I just did, you will find folks that fix them in your area. Good luck.
Hello, I have a Sanborn 240v 60 gallon compressor. When I ran it last I blew the head gasket when compressor shut down. My first thought was unloader. Would this make sense?
Dan, I moved the question to the Sanborn page.
No, I don’t believe that the issue is the unloader. It’s shut while the compressor is running, and when the compressor shuts off, the unloader opens to vent air so there doesn’t seem to be a correlation.
Not knowing if it’s a temperature issues, how old the compressor is, how long it’s running at one time, makes it hard to be specific at all.
If by the head gasket you mean the gasket that seals the pump head on, check that the bolts are tight, and if the compressor has run long and hard, heat warping could be an issue. good luck.
I have a Sanborn BlackMax air compressor model number: BO7FL350-20. The Pressure regulator popped off and now air leaks out. I tried to find a regulator repair kit. No luck. What are my options? Thank you for helping.
denlgable@gmail.com
If yours is the one with a cover over the regulator and gauges, what do you see when you remove the cover? Is it a small regulator? If so, replace it. They are under $20. If not, please add a photo of that portion of your compressor (with the cover off) and one picture of that whole side of the compressor as a comment to this thread. Thanks.
I have an older 5hp 60gal Sanborn compressor that when running blows a little bit of air out of a weep hole underneath the cylinder head.
It pumps up fine and doesn’t burn any oil but why is it blowing a little bit of air out of that hole?
If you look at the attached picture it is the little hole underneath the main exhaust tube.
Should I be concerned about this or is it normal?
If you seeing a little oil out of that hole, my suspicion is that you’re getting more oil past the piston seal than normal, and it’s venting out this, what I believe is, a soft start vent.
Problem? Depends on how much oil, if it’s interfering with normal starting of the compressor. One thing sure, you’ll be wanting to do a pump service one day, maybe not soon, but one day. Might want to check and see if there is a kit available.
It looks like a standard MAT 165 pump and when I look up the price for a rebuild kit it’s as much as just buying a whole new pump! It’s building pressure fine, just pumps a little bit of air out of that hole as it’s pumping and I guess there’s some oil with it. I just happen to be checking for leaks and noticed little puffs of air coming out of that weep hole.
I think inside that hole is a valve that opens when the pump stops to vent air. Oil may have gummed it up. Check your oil levels in the sump and if the compressor stays pumping OK, press on. Also, you’re probably getting oil into the air stream and tank as well. Make sure you’re draining the tank regularly.
Can you suggest an easy fix like possibly spraying gum out or something into that hole?
Would it be accessible coming through the top of the piston if I remove the cylinder head?
When I look at a parts breakdown I don’t see a valve there.
Spraying something into the hole? No, I wouldn’t.
If there is no valve on the inside, then that hole is “leaking” all the time the compressor is running. I also “leaks” when the compressor is stopped, venting air over the piston, I suspect. The tank check valve keeps the tank air in the tank, so after the air over the piston is gone, no more air should come out of that hole when the compressor is stopped. That you are noticing it now is simply because of the oil.
The issue as I see it is that your piston ring(s) is worn to the point that enough oil is getting by, that it’s leaking out that hole. Opening the pump to access the hole will accomplish nothing really. Sure, you can clean the “crud” and stop the wicking out the hole, for a while. But then, if it’s oil coming up from the sump that’s coming out, it will just begin again.
If you open the pump you may need a rebuild kit anyway, in the event that any gaskets in the pump head are damaged by the disassembly. So, maybe don’t?
Do you think I can get away with just buying a ring kit and gaskets or might it be a waste of time not replacing the bearings and getting the crank and everything cut?
I can buy a new cheap harbor freight pump with warranty for $125 and just buying the rings and gaskets are going to be well over $70!
I’m debating if it’s even worth it to try to rebuild this.
Dave, that’s always the issue. We buy mass-produced, low cost, low purchase price compressors to save money up front, and there IS ALWAYS a price for that at the other end when they begin to fail. It’s buy an industrial compressor with a parts a support network for a lot more money, or buy a cheap one with the expectation that if any major part fails it’s junk. For many of the low cost compressors, they are consumables. When they break, throw them out. If I need a compressor for daily use to make money, I’ll always acquire an industrial type with a local service department. That’s the choice we have.
I have a Sanborn air compressor model # 500A60 serial #820682 single stage 220 volt.
My question is how do you add oil to this unit.. I see a drain plug at the base of the pump, but no fill tube.
Cannot find a photo of the compressor so I have really no idea at this point. In order to get some assistance, please upload a photo of the pump from all sides if you would. Thanks.
I have a fairly new 60 gallon upright model (just over 2yr old). When the motor switches on, it only hums, maybe makes a turn or two, then shuts off by tripping the breaker switch. The motor will run without the belt attached, but under any kind of load, does the above. The compressor unit itself does turn as it should. I did get the tank to build pressure by loosening the belt considerably, but obviously can’t run it like that. Guessing the motor is shot?
Might be the motor Chuck, but maybe more likely the capacitor is causing the issue, as long as the unloader valve is working.
See the pages here that refer to the capacitor and unloader for more specific info:
http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/
willyr, thank you for your reply.
I have a spare capacitor that I can try. I’ll do that some time this week and reply back on my findings.
Hi
I have an old compressor pump that looks like a b5900. The small piston rings match from using the b5900 part number. The problem is the low pressure piston. All b5900 ring sets are too big. Someone said it might be a b5000 pump but all the pictures I send or measurements I supply are not good enough. Everyone wants a part number. No one is capable of pulling a b5000 ring set and checking the specs. Do you have a decent supplier that may help?
Thanks
Sorry I do not, though I hope another visitor does. What I can tell you is that likely the rings are standard, and if you’ve measured the old accurately, if you Google replacement piston rings suppliers and then use the measurements you’ve got I would be surprised if you cannot find a match. I don’t believe any of the compressor “manufacturers” make their own.
Well Zachary, I see the photos, thanks. Just not quite sure what the question is? Would you be kind enough to provide a bit more information, including the model number of your Sanborn compressor?
I also note the broken fitting, but not sure how the two images fit together?
I just recently acquired a Sanborn air compressor. How can I find out how old the compressor is? Dan
No model number? No identification of any sort on it? Try taking a photo from each side and uploading it here. Someone will help in time, I expect.
To the Author, I came looking for information on a Magna force, Sanborn compressor. I/e what the duty cycle is, parts for the cut on/off switch, parts of the electric relay/main power supply, even a manual would be great, ect… I didn’t find the information I am after. However I wanted to say I appreciate this website, and mostly I appreciate your patience when answering questions. As a novice air compressor repair person my self. Many of the questions people ask you, and allot of the answers given by you. Are given in the article you’ve just written, I can’t be the only one that sees that. Or how you have the patience to answer someone’s question, that was just explained in an article. Or that they haven’t educated them selves, in the smallest degree, about something they are trying to save money doing.
This is what I inherited when I came back, from active duty, after leaving my compressor and brother alone. It’s Pretty scary, and is just wired straight to the breaker. He said he did it because he thought it wasn’t turning on and off like it should. Grrrrr…….lol…. If you have any suggestions or information on this compressor, I would truly appreciate it. A possible solution, I’m thinking is using a second compressor to relay the on/off/on. I have a 50 gallon auxillary tank that I can plumb everything into. The second compressor is on a separate breaker and is a 60 gallon, it has the same on/off/on factory settings as the sandborn. However, that doesn’t fix my problem with the little metal tube that releases pressure off the head/piston at end of a cycle. At the end of the tube is a Schrader valve, that would be depressed when the compressor kicks off after filling. I do use a great deal of air volume at times, sand blasting. So that much volume is warranted when need.
Label plate——-
Magna force by sandborn
Model number: g500BPL44V
Motor HP: ?
Tank W. p. 140
Voltage: 230
Phase: ?
Tank/Gal: 44
Max ??? W. P./Factory setting:
120/90/120
Serial number: 80315288
——-_——-
Motor——
Magnetek, century AC motor
Part 8- 176792 -24
FR: p56
Type:CP
HP: SPL
Volts: 208-230
Rpm: 3450
Hz: 60
Ph: 1 sf
Time: Cont
Serial: BM1-121