For years it was assumed that Ingersoll Rand air compressors were built for the industrial market. And they certainly were. We are not sure when IR made the move into, shall we say, smaller, more consumer oriented compressors, but they are in this market too, with a vengeance.
On this page we would like to focus on the smaller, reciprocating Ingersoll Rand air compressors. Yet, with the comment section, we invite questions from folks using any of their models.
If you are an IR air compressor user, and you see a question or comment that you can help out with, leave your thoughts as a comment there, if you would. Of course, only comments and questions about Ingersoll Rand air compressors can be added to this page.
We are focusing on Ingersoll Rand air compressors, like the bad boy shown in this next photo. Sweet machine, hmmm?
Ingersoll Rand air compressors are available from industrial supply houses, yet nowadays are available from a string of retail sources like the Home Depot, Tractor Supply, Northern Tool and a host of on line suppliers.
We would like to think that their move to a more consumer oriented product did not mean that they cheapened the quality of their historically quality oriented and reliable compressors.
At least, when you buy an IR air compressor, you can talk to the manufacturer should you have a problem. In North America technical support for the Ingersoll Rand brand of compressors is available from:
North America
800-E Beaty Street
Davidson, NC 28036
USA
+1-704-655-4000
Ingersoll Rand Tool Helpline: 1-800-866-5457
If you are looking for help from the Ingersoll Rand compressor-owning community, consider posting a comment or question below.
I have a (just over 2 year old) IR 2340 that is leaking from the side of the tank body. Tried tightening with the largest wrench I had, but it will not budge. Any way to seal the leak with epoxy or JB weld? Or am I just screwed and need to get a new one?Also after searching for 30 min I cannot find a parts page that will tell me what this nut/outlet is called…
I have an 80 gal 7.5 hp ingersoll rand air compressor which seems to keep killing pressure switches 3rd one in 2 months. It also has a starter on it. Compressor is used daily. What could be causing this.
I have an Ingersoll Rand T30 with a single phase lesson dual capacitor 5 hp motor. Lately when the compressor reaches pressure and shuts off, it does so with a clunk or a bang. Sometimes it staggers and rumbles before shutting off. It sounds violent and scary. Any ideas?
I have ingersoll rand up6-15c-150 The current problem is that the breaker continues to trip overlord. The compressor works and initially stops at 150 psi normally. The valve always opens at first, giving off some white smoke. And the voltage gradually increases at 125 psi. For the motor, 49 AMP is the normal value, and if the OVERLOAD relay exceeds 45-60 AMP 130, the trip is over 60 AMP already. Currently, it has been replaced with an inlet valve kit.
Screw compressor is difficult because it is the first time. Please advise.
I have a Ingersoll-Rand T10 single stage air compressor with a aluminum pump . It’s got 3 gaskets on the head , what kind of material are they, I have to make the gaskets
I have a IR 2475 7.5hp. .It was originally 3phase. Moved to new location and had to change motor and starter to single phase 240. everything working and running fine for several months as single phase THEN as unit is operating rpms start to drop to the point the belt starts to squeal. I start the compressor in the morning and it will run fine for several minutes and then the rpms will start to drop. This is intermittent. Sometimes it works fine for 2-3 weeks then the trouble comes back. I have replaced the start and run capacitors a few times. I found one time a troubleshooting guide that said it was the pressure switch but have not replace it. Any ideas? Thank you,Carey
I have a Ingersoll Rand 750 cfm, kind of all I can get from what’s not painted over. It will start up and run, build and supply air. My question is, when I get it started, I’m supposed to release the circuit bypass button. Soon as I release the button it dies. But as long as I stand and hold the button in, it will run all day.
(Question moved to IR page…)
I have an ‘elderly’ Ingersoll Rand compressor with a Condor Pressure Switch MDR2
It functions well for me, but I am not sure if the Unloader Valve or the Tank Check Valve are operating as they should.
My concern is that – while the compressor is running, mostly there is also a strong blast of air coming from the vent of the Unloader Valve.
The Max & Min pressure switch Off/On are working fine, and the ‘blast’ from the UV stops when the motor switches off.
Is this normal, or is a valve sticking?
(It does seem to take longer to reach max pressure than I imagine it should.
I have dismantled the Unloader Valve and cannot see any obvious problem.)
How to remove a crank shaft from an Ingersol Rand 2475 type 30. I need to do a major overall. Please respond.
my INGERSOLL RAND air compressor is tripping on ” SECOND STAGE OVER RATIO”
What is it exactly ? and how to resolve it ?
50hp screw compressor. losing a gal of oil every 3rd day with no visible signs of a leak. Anyone have any idea what is causing this?? Low oil sends hi temp warning an shuts compressor off..
I have a Ingersoll Rand SS3R2-GM and yesterday I heard a loud pop and noticed the gauge cover had cracked and was blown off.
Fluid started coming out of the gauge.
Would this suggest a faulty gauge or pressure switch?
I don’t want to start replacing the gauge if something else is causing the failure.
Also, as the specific gauge model is pricey to me at $70, are the other IR gauges compatible? Thanks.
I’m looking for a water cooled after cooler for a horizontal T30 compressor from early 1960’s
I have a TS4N5 IR compress that won’t cut off at the set psi and is lifting the PSV, I bought a new pressure switch and switched them out however it’s still pressuring up until the PSV lifts. It may just be a faulty switch since I tried shutting it off on the switch and it didn’t stop running and I had to throw the breaker. Is this common? Could it be something not telling the switch to shut off? the gauge is showing pressure so I can’t see there being a plug before the switch. What parts would I need to replace/repair this? Anything is helpful, thanks!
I R 2 cylinder two stage 80 gallon reciprocating air compressor. Air pressure backing up into cylinder causing pump to lock up.. When I bleed the pressure from the holding tank pump spins.
I have a 80 gallon IR two cylinder two stage reciprocating air compressor. Pressure backs up into the cylinder and Lock’s up pump.when i bleed the pressure from the tank the pump is fine. I believe that the problem is the check valve but where is it.
(Post moved to the I.R. page – moderator)
I have an IR UP6-7.5 rotary screw compressor that will not restart automatically after the pressure has drop to the restart point. from empty I push manual start button and everything is ok till it hits 150 psi the it shuts down,like it should but you can run it dry and will never restart unless I hit the manual restart again.I have already replaced the pressure switch, and have tried operating in both the continues run mode, & the auto stop /start mode. can anyone help
I want CMC service tool with license to communicate PC with BCM or OUI or ucm could you help me?
I have a 5 HP 60 gallon compressor (IR SS) that runs good in the fact that it starts and stops when it should but my problem is that it losses pressure at the tool right after the motor/pump shuts off. This lasts for about 5-8 seconds. This is no big deal when using grinders or similar tools but when using a paint gun or my plasma cutter it becomes an issue. Does anyone know what may be causing this?
I have an Ingersoll Rand 5 horse single stage 60 gallon compressor. I bought it new and it worked awesome. I could hold a blow gun wide open and it would still pump up and shut off.
I use it in my pole barn and it doesn’t get used to all that much.
After approximately 15 or 20 refills over the course of about a year-and-a-half, It just started running and running and running and running and not shutting off. The gauge on the tank has a lot of trouble getting past a hundred pounds, but the gauge in the line will go up to 110 ( it’s max) pretty easy.
As the tank is building from a very low pressure, the gauge in the line is always about 10 or 15 pounds higher than the gauge on the tank as its building. For kicks I let it run for about 15 minutes and it still wouldn’t shut off. In the past it would only take about 3 minutes.
I have an ingersoll rand 7100e15v. It started out as tank pressure bleeding out of the unloader valve on the pressure switch. We have replaced pressure switch with a new one, that didn’t work. I contacted Ingersoll rand and they told me that the heads need to be rebuilt. So that was about a $500 kit with the same results. The problem is the pistons have no relief holes, there is no unloader piston in the first stage head and there is no tank check valve installed, and this is the way it came from the factory. This compressor has ran great for many years until about 2 weeks ago. Now it will cycle on, build pressure, cut off but it trips the breaker when trying to restart due to the fact it has tank pressure on top of the pistons. This is a real head scratcher. If anyone has any insight. It is much appreciated. And I apologize if this isn’t in the right catagory.
I have an Ingersoll Rand T30. Recently it started kicking the breaker after running for about 5-10 seconds. I was testing it with the write up on this site when one of the capacitors blew. Was it a bad capacitor, or do I have a bad motor? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Michael
I have an Ingersoll Rand compressor with 1 port p/switch, the compressor starts up and stops ok but won’t start again when the pressure drops. I have tested the continuity across the connections when the pressure drops and can see its made but compressor won’t start until I press start but again can someone help, thanks
Hello all. I found this site via google, and it appears to be a wonderful site for information about old (and new) compressors. Thank you for that 🙂
I have recently aquired a very old Ingersoll Rand Type 30 253 with serial number 98724.
Does anyone here have any information about this compressor pleaes? Would be very nice to know when it was made, amongst other things.
Is synthetic oil, e.g. Ingersoll Rand XL-300, any good on this compressor? any alternatives that works well?
I am thankful for any replies. Thanks.
Cheers, Martin
Hi I have just started working on a 1946 type 30 model 242 I purchased earlier this year
I think it is all original even the electric motor is a 3 hp British Thompson Huston repulsion which I have had overhauled can anyone tell me where to obtain spares in the UK as there is a part missing from the centre of the crankcase cover I do not know what this does so I suppose I need a manual or some literature so I can read up on it
I have an Ingersoll Rand model SSR-XP7.5 rotary screw compressor which refuses to shut off at the high pressure point set.
I’m suspicious of the two way solenoid as it seem to want to slip entirely out of its housing. I’m assuming it should remain in the housing rather than move up and down. When it slips all the way down the compressor runs but makes no air, when I manually push it up the compressor makes air. Its the green component in the attached photo. Easy component to replace but would be a relief to know its the actual root of the problem.
Thanks,
AT
On our Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor there is an Alarm condition Power Module Test 7 and mentioned on display. Any ideas why?
I have a IR 400 VHP with a cummins diesel, starts good the when I push the service air button ,it runs up builds 200 psi, but nothing out any of the ball valves, I drained the water off og the seperator and out of the air cooler still nothing, whats up? please
Hello,
I own an IR 60 gallon C2340 compressor.. Recently it hasn’t been shutting off at times.. blows the PRV.. Even switching the switch on the compressor unit itself doesn’t work. I have to shut off breaker.. I believe that the contacts are burnt and sticking.. When the power is off I have to pull them back manually… Is there another possibility that I should look at?? Can you buy just the contacts or do I have to buy the whole pressure switch assembly??
So I have a two stage 1973 Ford Rotunda 3 phase 10 hp compressor manufactured by Ingersol Rand. Because it is 3 phase I have to power it with my 12kw 15 surge Onan 4 cyl diesel generator that’s probably a few years older than the compressor. I got the unloader working properly to remove head pressure on both heads. There is no tank check valve but the location of cylinder output pipe to tank means that unloader doesn’t drain tank when open. There is some kind of relief valve on the primary cylinder output manifold. It has a lever and when you pull it the manifold unloads but again no tank unloading. I cleaned this up and oiled it too, but it only seems to unload manifold pressure when you pull the lever. I need this pressure relieved as well as the 2 cylinder head pressure which is taken care of by the unloader valve on the pressure cutout switch. If the manifold pressure is not relieved as well the generator can’t handle the startup when cycling cut in is 90psi cut out is 145. I put a tee in the manifold with this pressure relief back on top and a 1/4 tube out the side. This relieves startup pressure on the manifold and allows the generator to start the motor when cycling. The tube is open all the time and compressed air comes out the whole time when running until cut out. It does not drain from the tank. The CFM is so high in this compressor it hardly makes a difference, but I would like to know if this valve isn’t working as it should? It is more than a relief I think as it has a lever rather than a pin with pull ring. I am considering a solenoid on the 1/4 tube tied through the second set of contacts in the pressure cutout switch so it will work just like the unloader (and at the same time) but for manifold pressure rather than head pressure. I don’t really think it is necessary though… What is this valve? It seems like it should relieve manifold pressure when the compressor stops turning…. Thanks in advance!
Can anybody help me? My Ingersoll Rand IR400 air compressor has a problem.
It seems every thing is ok but when I open the release valve there is no air. Does anybody have any solution?
Hello – what an awesome site! I have limited knowledge on electrical things, but here goes. I have an Ingersoll Rand 2475N5 compressor – 230V.
It’s rated to 28 Amps, and we have it hard wired to a 40 amp breaker. I double checked the connections and the wires and connections seem good.
It’s been running fine since I got it about 6 months ago. It just recently stopped working.
When I turn it on, it will start to turn over (maybe even several times), and then it will trip the breaker. It’s like it wants to start, and then it stops. We also tried turning it on while holding the air drain open at the top of the motor to help relieve air pressure. Would this possibly suggest the Start Capacitors? There are 2 start capacitors and 1 run capacitor. Both look fine, but one could be bad.