For years it was assumed that Ingersoll Rand air compressors were built for the industrial market. And they certainly were. We are not sure when IR made the move into, shall we say, smaller, more consumer oriented compressors, but they are in this market too, with a vengeance.
On this page we would like to focus on the smaller, reciprocating Ingersoll Rand air compressors. Yet, with the comment section, we invite questions from folks using any of their models.
If you are an IR air compressor user, and you see a question or comment that you can help out with, leave your thoughts as a comment there, if you would. Of course, only comments and questions about Ingersoll Rand air compressors can be added to this page.
We are focusing on Ingersoll Rand air compressors, like the bad boy shown in this next photo. Sweet machine, hmmm?
Ingersoll Rand air compressors are available from industrial supply houses, yet nowadays are available from a string of retail sources like the Home Depot, Tractor Supply, Northern Tool and a host of on line suppliers.
We would like to think that their move to a more consumer oriented product did not mean that they cheapened the quality of their historically quality oriented and reliable compressors.
At least, when you buy an IR air compressor, you can talk to the manufacturer should you have a problem. In North America technical support for the Ingersoll Rand brand of compressors is available from:
800-E Beaty Street
Davidson, NC 28036
Ingersoll Rand Tool Helpline: 1-800-866-5457
If you are looking for help from the Ingersoll Rand compressor-owning community, consider posting a comment or question below.
I have a SS-5E compressor from my late brother. It is probably 5 years old. When I started using it after it ran for 15 or 20 minutes it started knocking and got really hot. I changed the oil in it and was better for a little while and then started the same thing. The odd thing is after knocking you can turn it off until it cools and it works fine again until it heats up and knocks again. I have a auto repair business and normally in a car engine once a motor knocks it either locks up or continues to knock. Is this repairable or do I need another compressor? Thanks
SSR 75 Horsepower Screw Has an Intellisys control system what we have is no relief at end of cut off of 105 psi tank has no blow-off on the valve there’s constant 120 volts to the valve on tank holding valve shut and the pressure in the separator tank is blocked coming out. If you disconnect the solenoid coil from the valve it relieves the air out til it goes into pumping mode again and if you disconnect it and connect it back on with the on and off mode with the compressor that’s air on air off at 105 psi it works fine. The valve gets 120 volts on terminals 19 and 20 on the board but it stays on all the time not cutting on and off any suggestions. Thank You JW maintenance
i have a mod.# ss3 i have never been able to remove the oil drain plug im afraid it will break any sugestions on oil chang
Hello, I have a ingersoll rand up6-25 screw compressor. It will not unload head pressure so it does not restart after the auto shut down, it smokes the belt. I have replaced all filters, the belt and tensioner. I have also replaced the intake valve and both the blowdown and load solenoids. It starts and builds pressure fine. It only does this after the auto restart. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Sounds like the relief valve is not relieving or blowing down after building pressure something in the program if it’s controlled by a computer. or if analog pressure switch is not cutting out. after reaching max air line pressure the separator tank has to relieve or blow of the access air and then it will run if not I see it will lock up as you said jam the belt drive because the srews are locked up.
I have an ingersoll rand t30 air compressor with a single phase weg 00518os1ccd184t electric motor on it. I ordered a new motor start capacitor and when I moved the air compressor to my house the wires running from the 3 capacitors disconnected from each capacitor and the wires going to the pressure kill switch. I haven’t been able to find out any wiring diagrams or pictures that’ll help me wire it back up so any help would be appreciated.
Hi Cameron. I don’t do wiring myself. I am happy to post this to allow someone familiar with this to add a comment. Thanks for the photos. They’ll help, I’m sure.
Good afternoon, I am Thomas, I have a Model # 242-5N serial #30T 666286 Ingersoll Rand compressor. I believe the one or all three of the capacitors looking at them from left to right: 1) Packard PSMJ 710-850 MFD, 2) unknown 3) PMJ 708 708-850 MFD. I would like to know the correct information for all three capacitors please. Photo attached.
Thomas, a couple of folks have commented on your posting on another venue.
Mikey M suggests it looks like a 708 – 850 Micro Farads.
Ross F. says it’s a 708-850 round capacitor, available from Grainger.com. Good luck.
Thomas. My apologies for taking this long to upload your photos. They are below. The reason was I’ve been working with software folks in order to attempt to correct the upload problem on this site, with no luck so far.
Happy to post this for you, Thomas. Please, did you actually add a photo? None arrived. Thank you.
Part #24081648 for Ingersoll Rand Combination Cooler leaking. Can if be fixed or do I have to replace the part?
I surmise that it’s a coolant leak from the radiator / heat exchanger? I also see it’s $1,000+ to replace. It were mine, I’d call in an air conditioning (auto or industrial) technician to see if they can locate and solder the leak.
That’s, of course, if the compressor is not under warranty. If it is, call IR.
does anybody know where to get parts for an ingersol TS4N5? I want to take the head off and decarbonize the valves etc but don’t wanna start that until I have new gaskets in case I rip one taking it apart.
Hey Dennis, that’s a valid concern. Like yourself, I was not able to find a after market source of the specific gaskets for your 5 HP Two-Stage Electric Driven Reciprocating piston Air compressor. What others have done is to acquire a sheet of high heat gasket material from an industrial source, or an auto parts outlet, and use the old gaskets as a pattern to cut out your replacement gaskets.
Others have used liquid gaskets with some success, others not so much.
You did contact IR’s service department, yes?
Anyone else have advice for Dennis?
We have a 14hp (kohler engine) gas powered compressor (2475) with a starting issue. If you remove the belt to the pump the engine will start and run perfectly. Once you reinstall the belt, it refuses to start. I have changed the unloader valve and replaced the starter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Info on motor removal on a Ingersoll Rand up6. Do you have to remove dryer to get motor out?
I have a (just over 2 year old) IR 2340 that is leaking from the side of the tank body. Tried tightening with the largest wrench I had, but it will not budge. Any way to seal the leak with epoxy or JB weld? Or am I just screwed and need to get a new one?Also after searching for 30 min I cannot find a parts page that will tell me what this nut/outlet is called…
That appears to be a reducing bushing, and as such, will have threads that thread into the boss on the tank. I’d remove the smaller fitting first (with tank empty of air) and use a monkey wrench with a bar to remove the reducing bushing from the tank boss. Put liquid sealant on the threads, thread back into the boss securely, and then reinstall the small fitting.
It may be that the bushing is sealed with paint too, and if so, you may need to heat it to get it removed.
I have an 80 gal 7.5 hp ingersoll rand air compressor which seems to keep killing pressure switches 3rd one in 2 months. It also has a starter on it. Compressor is used daily. What could be causing this.
I have an Ingersoll Rand T30 with a single phase lesson dual capacitor 5 hp motor. Lately when the compressor reaches pressure and shuts off, it does so with a clunk or a bang. Sometimes it staggers and rumbles before shutting off. It sounds violent and scary. Any ideas?
I have ingersoll rand up6-15c-150 The current problem is that the breaker continues to trip overlord. The compressor works and initially stops at 150 psi normally. The valve always opens at first, giving off some white smoke. And the voltage gradually increases at 125 psi. For the motor, 49 AMP is the normal value, and if the OVERLOAD relay exceeds 45-60 AMP 130, the trip is over 60 AMP already. Currently, it has been replaced with an inlet valve kit.
Screw compressor is difficult because it is the first time. Please advise.
Sounds like you have a bad motor check the tag on the motor if you’re getting to max amps on it then it’s going. is it 240 or 440 3 phase I see thats its 3 phase in the picture?
I have a Ingersoll-Rand T10 single stage air compressor with a aluminum pump . It’s got 3 gaskets on the head , what kind of material are they, I have to make the gaskets
Near as I can tell they are made from high heat resistant, non-asbestos, gasketing material. Googling just that will find suppliers, Elton.
I have a IR 2475 7.5hp. .It was originally 3phase. Moved to new location and had to change motor and starter to single phase 240. everything working and running fine for several months as single phase THEN as unit is operating rpms start to drop to the point the belt starts to squeal. I start the compressor in the morning and it will run fine for several minutes and then the rpms will start to drop. This is intermittent. Sometimes it works fine for 2-3 weeks then the trouble comes back. I have replaced the start and run capacitors a few times. I found one time a troubleshooting guide that said it was the pressure switch but have not replace it. Any ideas? Thank you,Carey
I have a Ingersoll Rand 750 cfm, kind of all I can get from what’s not painted over. It will start up and run, build and supply air. My question is, when I get it started, I’m supposed to release the circuit bypass button. Soon as I release the button it dies. But as long as I stand and hold the button in, it will run all day.
(Question moved to IR page…)
Ed, can you post a pic or two of your unit control panel?
If there’s a “press for service air” button, does it have any effect?
When it quits (on releasing the bypass), is it a clean cut-off, or does it slow and die out?
I have an ‘elderly’ Ingersoll Rand compressor with a Condor Pressure Switch MDR2
It functions well for me, but I am not sure if the Unloader Valve or the Tank Check Valve are operating as they should.
My concern is that – while the compressor is running, mostly there is also a strong blast of air coming from the vent of the Unloader Valve.
The Max & Min pressure switch Off/On are working fine, and the ‘blast’ from the UV stops when the motor switches off.
Is this normal, or is a valve sticking?
(It does seem to take longer to reach max pressure than I imagine it should.
I have dismantled the Unloader Valve and cannot see any obvious problem.)
Hi Owen. Could be that the valve is sticking. Could also be that the tank check valve isn’t working and air flowing into the tank is coming back out and out the unloader valve which is open when the compressor is running.
Dump all the air, remove and clean the tank check valve, or replace, and check again. Let us know please. Please also see:
-compressor tank check valve is failing
– how to test your compressor tank check valve,
both of which are linked from this troubleshooting page on this site.
How to remove a crank shaft from an Ingersol Rand 2475 type 30. I need to do a major overall. Please respond.
Happy to post this for you Carl, and I hope someone that’s done this will provide some info.
my INGERSOLL RAND air compressor is tripping on ” SECOND STAGE OVER RATIO”
What is it exactly ? and how to resolve it ?
50hp screw compressor. losing a gal of oil every 3rd day with no visible signs of a leak. Anyone have any idea what is causing this?? Low oil sends hi temp warning an shuts compressor off..
Yes, change the oil air separator filter in the tank all the oil is going out into the main airline anyone getting oil out of the airlines? That’s where it’s going. Also change the little oil filter on the system. It will look like a large car oil filter but change the tank seperator.
I have a Ingersoll Rand SS3R2-GM and yesterday I heard a loud pop and noticed the gauge cover had cracked and was blown off.
Fluid started coming out of the gauge.
Would this suggest a faulty gauge or pressure switch?
I don’t want to start replacing the gauge if something else is causing the failure.
Also, as the specific gauge model is pricey to me at $70, are the other IR gauges compatible? Thanks.
Tim, I uploaded a photo of the compressor in question, and moved the post to the Ingersoll Rand compressor page.
Has the compressor been stopping at the normal cut out pressure before this with no problem? What was the pressure at which the gauge cover had cracked, and what “fluid” was coming out… oil, water?
If the compressor is out of warranty, no need to use an OEM gauge if you find them too expensive. Any industrial air gauge with the same pressure range and mount will work.
I’m looking for a water cooled after cooler for a horizontal T30 compressor from early 1960’s
I have one of these if your interested its a A42 aftercooler from horizontal duplex type 30 compressor
I have a TS4N5 IR compress that won’t cut off at the set psi and is lifting the PSV, I bought a new pressure switch and switched them out however it’s still pressuring up until the PSV lifts. It may just be a faulty switch since I tried shutting it off on the switch and it didn’t stop running and I had to throw the breaker. Is this common? Could it be something not telling the switch to shut off? the gauge is showing pressure so I can’t see there being a plug before the switch. What parts would I need to replace/repair this? Anything is helpful, thanks!
If the pressure in the tank is bypassing the cut off pressure setting on the switch, meaning that power is still flowing through the switch even though the pressure should have tripped it to off, and there is nothing blocking the tank pressure getting to the switch, then it’s almost certain that the switch is the problem. Please double check the pressure settings, and ensure that the supply side terminals and the motor / load side terminals are wired correctly. If they are, then it’s likely time to change the switch again.
I R 2 cylinder two stage 80 gallon reciprocating air compressor. Air pressure backing up into cylinder causing pump to lock up.. When I bleed the pressure from the holding tank pump spins.
That sounds a bit like the air isn’t getting from cylinder one into cylinder two, and that means a blockage of some sort if so. I would suspect the intake valve on cylinder two to be an issue if this were my compressor.
Then why with the compressor off holding tank empty i use an alternate air source to fill the tank and at about30psi.
I can no longer turn the pulley wheel on the pump by hand. Actually i cant turn it at all until i bleed the air back out of thetank
David, I’m not entirely sure what you mean by “compressor off holding tank empty”. If the compressor tank has a charge of air, then the air in the tank is pushing back against any more air entering from the pump cylinders. This may exert pressure on the pistons in the cylinders preventing them from moving until the load is removed. It sure sounds like an back-pressure caused lock up to me, and removing the air pressure from the system frees up the movement.
80gallon holding tank. No pressure in tank. I turn on air compressor it starts up fine. Pressure regulator set at150 psi when the gauge that reads tank pressure reaches about30 psi the pump locks up. Meaning that the pressure in the tank is putting back pressure on the pump not allowing it to spin.what could cause that
OK, the air comes from the first cylinder to the second, yes? If there is a block in the intake or pressure valve of the second cylinder, the pump will lock up. If the second cylinder valves are good, then the only other thing that might cause this symptom is a failed tank check valve which, when experiencing 30 PSI back pressure from the tank, refuses to open further, and stops the air from the second cylinder. The pump will lock up.
I cannot think of anything else in the circuit that would cause a pump lock up at 30 PSI tank pressure, and relief of the pressure unlocks the pump.
I have a 80 gallon IR two cylinder two stage reciprocating air compressor. Pressure backs up into the cylinder and Lock’s up pump.when i bleed the pressure from the tank the pump is fine. I believe that the problem is the check valve but where is it.
(Post moved to the I.R. page – moderator)
Their 80 gallon compressor has a number of configurations for the 2 cylinder / 2 stage unit. Wish you’d included a model number, as I can’t do any real research without that, Dave.
Typically though, the tank check valve is part of the fitting where the air line from the 2nd stage enters the tank. Take a look and let us know, OK?
Thank you I will be removing the air line from cylinder into tank this afternoon.I will let you no how everything works out
I have an IR UP6-7.5 rotary screw compressor that will not restart automatically after the pressure has drop to the restart point. from empty I push manual start button and everything is ok till it hits 150 psi the it shuts down,like it should but you can run it dry and will never restart unless I hit the manual restart again.I have already replaced the pressure switch, and have tried operating in both the continues run mode, & the auto stop /start mode. can anyone help
I want CMC service tool with license to communicate PC with BCM or OUI or ucm could you help me?
No, I sure can’t. I expect someone out there can, so happy to post this for you. Watch for replies. Good luck.
I have a 5 HP 60 gallon compressor (IR SS) that runs good in the fact that it starts and stops when it should but my problem is that it losses pressure at the tool right after the motor/pump shuts off. This lasts for about 5-8 seconds. This is no big deal when using grinders or similar tools but when using a paint gun or my plasma cutter it becomes an issue. Does anyone know what may be causing this?
I have an Ingersoll Rand 5 horse single stage 60 gallon compressor. I bought it new and it worked awesome. I could hold a blow gun wide open and it would still pump up and shut off.
I use it in my pole barn and it doesn’t get used to all that much.
After approximately 15 or 20 refills over the course of about a year-and-a-half, It just started running and running and running and running and not shutting off. The gauge on the tank has a lot of trouble getting past a hundred pounds, but the gauge in the line will go up to 110 ( it’s max) pretty easy.
As the tank is building from a very low pressure, the gauge in the line is always about 10 or 15 pounds higher than the gauge on the tank as its building. For kicks I let it run for about 15 minutes and it still wouldn’t shut off. In the past it would only take about 3 minutes.
That the regulator gauge displays 15 PSI over the tank gauge suggests to me that one of the two is not registering the correct pressure. Consider swapping them and see what happens to the display. If the disparity reverses, it’s time to replace the gauges. As to running and running and not building pressure, please see: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-will-not-build-pressure/ .
I have an ingersoll rand 7100e15v. It started out as tank pressure bleeding out of the unloader valve on the pressure switch. We have replaced pressure switch with a new one, that didn’t work. I contacted Ingersoll rand and they told me that the heads need to be rebuilt. So that was about a $500 kit with the same results. The problem is the pistons have no relief holes, there is no unloader piston in the first stage head and there is no tank check valve installed, and this is the way it came from the factory. This compressor has ran great for many years until about 2 weeks ago. Now it will cycle on, build pressure, cut off but it trips the breaker when trying to restart due to the fact it has tank pressure on top of the pistons. This is a real head scratcher. If anyone has any insight. It is much appreciated. And I apologize if this isn’t in the right catagory.
Also, I forgot to mention that this particular model does not have the optional centrifugal unloader components. I am attaching some photos.
another view of the compressor
another view of the compressor
I have an Ingersoll Rand T30. Recently it started kicking the breaker after running for about 5-10 seconds. I was testing it with the write up on this site when one of the capacitors blew. Was it a bad capacitor, or do I have a bad motor? Any suggestions?
Don’t know how testing a cap should cause the cap to blow. I would hope it was the cap. Easier and cheaper to replace that than a motor on your T-30.
I have an Ingersoll Rand compressor with 1 port p/switch, the compressor starts up and stops ok but won’t start again when the pressure drops. I have tested the continuity across the connections when the pressure drops and can see its made but compressor won’t start until I press start but again can someone help, thanks
Gareth, when the compressor reaches cut out and stops, can you determine if the unloader valve is working? Please let us know.
Hello all. I found this site via google, and it appears to be a wonderful site for information about old (and new) compressors. Thank you for that 🙂
I have recently aquired a very old Ingersoll Rand Type 30 253 with serial number 98724.
Does anyone here have any information about this compressor pleaes? Would be very nice to know when it was made, amongst other things.
Is synthetic oil, e.g. Ingersoll Rand XL-300, any good on this compressor? any alternatives that works well?
I am thankful for any replies. Thanks.
Hi I have just started working on a 1946 type 30 model 242 I purchased earlier this year
I think it is all original even the electric motor is a 3 hp British Thompson Huston repulsion which I have had overhauled can anyone tell me where to obtain spares in the UK as there is a part missing from the centre of the crankcase cover I do not know what this does so I suppose I need a manual or some literature so I can read up on it
I have an Ingersoll Rand model SSR-XP7.5 rotary screw compressor which refuses to shut off at the high pressure point set.
I’m suspicious of the two way solenoid as it seem to want to slip entirely out of its housing. I’m assuming it should remain in the housing rather than move up and down. When it slips all the way down the compressor runs but makes no air, when I manually push it up the compressor makes air. Its the green component in the attached photo. Easy component to replace but would be a relief to know its the actual root of the problem.
On our Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor there is an Alarm condition Power Module Test 7 and mentioned on display. Any ideas why?
I have a IR 400 VHP with a cummins diesel, starts good the when I push the service air button ,it runs up builds 200 psi, but nothing out any of the ball valves, I drained the water off og the seperator and out of the air cooler still nothing, whats up? please
We are happy to post this for you in the Ingersoll Rand section, in the hopes that a visitor with experience with your compressor can comment. None of use use your model of compressor, so we hesitate to guess.
I own an IR 60 gallon C2340 compressor.. Recently it hasn’t been shutting off at times.. blows the PRV.. Even switching the switch on the compressor unit itself doesn’t work. I have to shut off breaker.. I believe that the contacts are burnt and sticking.. When the power is off I have to pull them back manually… Is there another possibility that I should look at?? Can you buy just the contacts or do I have to buy the whole pressure switch assembly??
Good questions, Brad. We think, too, that the pressure switch is at fault. The points may have just worn out, or there may be some arcing, indication, perhaps an electrical short of some kind in the power circuit. We are not seeing any parts supply or information on line about the C2340 IR compressor, so cannot comment on the source for parts.
So I have a two stage 1973 Ford Rotunda 3 phase 10 hp compressor manufactured by Ingersol Rand. Because it is 3 phase I have to power it with my 12kw 15 surge Onan 4 cyl diesel generator that’s probably a few years older than the compressor. I got the unloader working properly to remove head pressure on both heads. There is no tank check valve but the location of cylinder output pipe to tank means that unloader doesn’t drain tank when open. There is some kind of relief valve on the primary cylinder output manifold. It has a lever and when you pull it the manifold unloads but again no tank unloading. I cleaned this up and oiled it too, but it only seems to unload manifold pressure when you pull the lever. I need this pressure relieved as well as the 2 cylinder head pressure which is taken care of by the unloader valve on the pressure cutout switch. If the manifold pressure is not relieved as well the generator can’t handle the startup when cycling cut in is 90psi cut out is 145. I put a tee in the manifold with this pressure relief back on top and a 1/4 tube out the side. This relieves startup pressure on the manifold and allows the generator to start the motor when cycling. The tube is open all the time and compressed air comes out the whole time when running until cut out. It does not drain from the tank. The CFM is so high in this compressor it hardly makes a difference, but I would like to know if this valve isn’t working as it should? It is more than a relief I think as it has a lever rather than a pin with pull ring. I am considering a solenoid on the 1/4 tube tied through the second set of contacts in the pressure cutout switch so it will work just like the unloader (and at the same time) but for manifold pressure rather than head pressure. I don’t really think it is necessary though… What is this valve? It seems like it should relieve manifold pressure when the compressor stops turning…. Thanks in advance!
I know that this picture doesn’t show what I am talking about. This is the sellers photo on Craigslist. I will try to take a pic tomorrow of the valve. You can see the tank fill pie and the head to head tube and tube down to unloader though… The relief I am talking about is on the manifold rear of right hand cylinder.
Can anybody help me? My Ingersoll Rand IR400 air compressor has a problem.
It seems every thing is ok but when I open the release valve there is no air. Does anybody have any solution?
Hello – what an awesome site! I have limited knowledge on electrical things, but here goes. I have an Ingersoll Rand 2475N5 compressor – 230V.
It’s rated to 28 Amps, and we have it hard wired to a 40 amp breaker. I double checked the connections and the wires and connections seem good.
It’s been running fine since I got it about 6 months ago. It just recently stopped working.
When I turn it on, it will start to turn over (maybe even several times), and then it will trip the breaker. It’s like it wants to start, and then it stops. We also tried turning it on while holding the air drain open at the top of the motor to help relieve air pressure. Would this possibly suggest the Start Capacitors? There are 2 start capacitors and 1 run capacitor. Both look fine, but one could be bad.
Thanks for your kind comment, Ryan. We have uploaded an image of what the internet says is your air compressor, to make it easier for folks to know what we are talking about. As to what is wrong, you need to do all the checks posted here: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-trips-the-breaker-on-restart/ . When done, add a comment with your findings if you still need help.
We have a IR 7.5 HP 2 stage compressor model 2475. Has been working great until the pop off/relief valve started making a chattering noise and then making a popping noise. Took of the LP head and check the valves on the plate everything looked good then I took off the HP head and found the inlet valve on the plate was broke completely off and twisted and was hung up in port hole. Replaced the plate and all new valves and Gasket and “O” ring. Compressor worked for about one week fine.
The relief valve on the Low Pressure started the same thing. HP and LP head was real hot. Let cool and found the same thing had happened again with the valves on HP head.
Can you explain to me what is happening to cause this. Does the check valve have anything to do with this..Would appreciate your assistance.. OH, the top of the HP piston has small digs on it where the valve broke loose and hit on it along also on the top of the HP plate. Would these small digs effect the piston and cause this to happen? Thanks for your help.
Bryan, this is beyond my scope from afar. I’ll post this for you in the hope that another IR user can help.