There was a retail store chain in North America which some of you may have heard of known as SEARS. (There may still be some Sears outlets around, but they are few and far between any more.)
Sears is a department store selling all kinds of products from all kinds of manufacturers. They also have products manufactured with their own brand name for sale in their own stores and online. Craftsman compressors is one of those products.
The Craftsman brand is the name of their broad range of tools and workshop accessories as well, but on this page, we’re only concerned about the Craftsman compressors.
Over the many years the Craftsman /Sears compressor brand has been available, the actual air compressors have been made for Sears by a range of manufacturers. Therefore, a model number available in 2014 may not have been made by the same company with that same model number available in earlier years. Or, there are so many model numbers, it’s hard to find specific information about that one.
To make it a bit easier to try to find solutions to your Craftsman compressors problem, we’ll add pages with information relating to specific Craftsman models and link them below.
As well as the specific pages listed which address issues relating to Craftsman and Sears compressor, you can ask your own by using the form below. If you do post a question, please include at least one photo of your compressor. More if you want to focus on the problem area.
Please only post questions and comments about Craftsman / Sears air compressors on this page if you would be so kind. General questions can be posted elsewhere on this site.
i have a craftsman 919.175260 compressor that will pump up to around 40 lbs and then starts struggling to go further..i have replaced the pressure switch and check valve. any help would be great
Assuming no mechanical issues binding the pump, consider checking the motor capacitors. There is a page about how to do this linked from the troubleshooting page on this site.
I have a craftsman professional 25 gal 175 psi model:919.167783. After fumbling with the intake and discharge lines and having to replace the aluminum line with a high pressure/heat freight truck plastic line, I found the pressure switch to be leaking at the port where it connects to the copper check valve. Ultimately, I changed out the pressure switch and check valve for brand new parts, but still cannot get the tank to build pressure… Read more »
Your post was moved to the Craftsman page, David. If I understand correctly, you are exasperated by the fact that, with pressure in the tank, air continues to leak from the pressure switch regardless of what you’ve done to remedy that… yes? If so, then a simple solution may be to check that the tank check valve, the device with the sole purpose of keeping air in the tank and stopping that air from flowing… Read more »
It leaks air continually, from start and after I shut it off. The check valve and pressure switch are both brand new. The check valve SEEMS to cover the openings on the stem in closed position and the spring retracts and exposes the holes when depressed. I don’t know how to test the pressure switch diaphragm. But I suspect it to be in good shape. Both parts were purchased within the last week.
Hi David… let me ask something. If air is leaking from the compressor when the compressor is off, where is that air coming from? It has to be the tank, yes? If it’s the tank, and air is leaking on the compressor, not out of the air line coupler, then it has to be flowing back upstream past the tank check valve. If it is doing that, the tank check valve must be letting that… Read more »
I suppose that’s the only thing it could be. It’s just a new part and the valve’s venting at the base seems to be covered in the closed position and uncovered in the open position, but maybe there’s a small leak that is imperceptible by me.
Thank you for your time.
Right, the unloader is closed when the compressor is running, and open when the compressor is stopped. The bulk of the air loss then will be when the compressor is stopped, if the tank check valve is leaking.
Craftsman compressor 921.153101, starts and stops then starts and stops,etc., etc. Will not stay running long enough to even put any air in tank. Appreciate any assistance. BTW, in checking the pressure switch, the “contacts” still touch even when the motor stops, so guessing probably not a switch problem. thanks
Good the switch contacts are touching when there is a call for air, Mike. Can you meter it to be sure that there is current flowing?
If so, when the compressor stops, is there power flowing across the switch then? If so, the problem is likely capacitor or motor related. Please advise.
I have craftsman #919.165230 and after a days work my compressor loses air in tank and I cannot seem to find out where the air is leaking from
Richard, that’s a classic symptom of a failing tank check valve. Dump all the air with the compressor off, pull the fitting where the line from the pump enters the tank, and there you’ll find the tank check valve. Clean it or replace it and that should likely solve the problem.
I have a craftsman 1.5hp 2 gal compressor and it reaches 25 psi and will not increase although the pump is still running, I have stripped the pump apart all gaskets and reed valves are ok. the piston compression rings are fine. I have air pulling in at the intake and I cannot block the flow on the output, I have found the unloader vavle loose at the regulator. as this is my first regulator… Read more »
Please add a comment with a photo of the unloader valve at the regulator. I’m afraid I don’t know of any unloader valves on regulators, only on pressure switches.
Sorry, it is on the pressure switch not the regulator! my error, I tightened it up and it now reaches full pressure. Once the pressure drops and the switch engages the motor hums and doesn’t come on (heats up). I know this is one of the capacitors and I am going to guess the start cap. both caps on the motor are 15Uf so I am unsure which one is what and am wondering should… Read more »
Hello again, Jack.
If the caps are OEM equipment, then they are correct. I’d only be concerned about them being the same if somewhere along the line they were changed out and an error might have been made.
See the page on checking the caps, and check both. Let us know what you found if you would.
before moving onto the caps I replaced the pressure switch, it charges to full pressure still and again doesnt start when the tank has 120psi.
when I undid and redid the unloader tube from the top of the check valve the compressor can start again. This implies that there is air above the piston but it should have a brand new unloader valve inside the switch? am I on the right lines?
If air is trapped over the piston Jak, then that may be adding too much load. You replaced the pressure switch. The unloader tube runs from the tank check valve fitting over to the unloader? If so, when the pressure switch trips to off, the unloader should open, and any air in that line, and in the line up to the piston, should vent. If that’s not happening, then there’s an issue with the line… Read more »
it vents, you hear the big hiss but it doesnt seem to vent it all and like you said the motor then has too much load?
what can i do about that if its had a new pressure switch and unloader valve
If you hear a hiss, Jak, then the unloader valve is open to vent. Unless, for some reason, the unloader is closing again (doubtful if the compressor is off which means the switch has tripped), then it pretty much has to be a weak start cap, unless there’s an actual motor issue.
Time to check the cap, I think.
OK so tested the caps, they are wired in parallel, each one is 15Uf so and read 29.8MFD so within the 5%.
now I am really confused?
So am I. If there are two capacitors on an AC motor, I don’t believe they are installed parallel. One will be start, the other run I expect. Test them separately if you would to see if both are really OK.
So I took a picture, each cap is joined together and and then plugged into the motor and the motor only has 2 cables coming from it
Jak, I know you are in the UK, and voltages etc. are a bit different there. I can only relate to my north american experience, and limited electrical background. The thing is, if the unloader stays open, and the caps are good, then it’s got to be the motor, yes? That means a motor test shop I’m afraid.
that was my deduction, electrically my knowledge is quite good as im an electrician its the compressor bit thats getting me.
I deducted that it must be the motor but now I am requestioning the unloader valve, if it stays open why do i have air above the piston?
could it be the check valve?
If the unloader valve is open, then unless a gasket or something has shifted in the pump head (unlikely) then there should not be air over the piston. Even if the tank check valve is leaking, that air would bleed out the unloader valve as well.
If air is trapped over the piston and the compressor is off, then the unloader valve must be closed too.
I have a 60 gallon Craftsman Professional that I bought new in 2010. I hadn’t used it much but my kids did. It locked up due to low oil level. I bought a new pump on the ‘bay and didn’t notice that the inlet was on the wrong side. All the other dimensions were the same. I kinda procrastinated and couldn’t return the pump. Just being honest! Can I turn the head around to make… Read more »
Please, in a comment, add a photo of the old and new pump and the compressor base, and on one of them identify please what you mean by “the inlet is on the wrong side”. Also, since we aren’t quite sure by what the “standard $99 special is, please provide the model number of the pump. In easy terms, as long as you can connect everything, even if it means “creative plumbing” there is no… Read more »
Can you tell me where I can get a piston rod for my 6hp twin valve oil less compressor?
If you google “pump parts for xxxxxx Craftsman air compressor (where the x’s are your compressor model number) does nothing show up?
It says the part is no longer available. What are my options if I have to replace the whole pump?
If parts are no longer available, and many after-market suppliers supply the same parts to various other compressor brands since many are made by the same original factory and private labelled, your choices are find a used one to cannibalize it, have a local machine shop make you one, or buy a new pump. Sorry.
How does the on off switch assembly go back together on a model number 919.155613 model
I posted a question regarding a stubborn check valve that I cannot remove. Does anyone have any suggestions about buying a new check valve of the same specs that I could add on between the existing check valve and the cylinder head? I have the tools for pipe bending, flaring, etc., so it would not be a problem to do that.
I have a 919-16523 5.5 hp 26 gallon compressor that comes on then shuts off b4 it builds up any pressure. Would it be the run capasator causing this problem?
Could be. Sounds like an electrical issue. Before checking the caps though, track the power from source to motor and make sure all the connections are tight. If so, then yup, check the capacitor and that info can be found here: https://fix-my-compressor.com/is-the-compressor-start-capacitor-working/
I have an older Craftsman compressor model #15658 with a stuck check valve. I have tried WD40, tried heating it, and even used a 2ft cheater pipe on an 18″ breakover and it will not bulge. Any ideas how to get it out. The valve will not close allowing the tank to bleed out through it. The unloader valve is good, every thing works good for its age.
I posted a question about a Craftsman compressor problem on the Crastman section over a month ago, but have gotten no replies. The ones before and after me were responded to, but mine seems to have gotten overlooked. I really need to get this thing up and running because I need a second compressor but cannot afford to buy another one. Thanks.
Larry, your follow up post was moved here. Sometimes a question doesn’t get answered as there is nothing further that visitors can suggest. You’ve tried heating where the check valve enters the tank to loosen the threads with no luck. You’ve tried a breaker bar to increase torque to remove the valve with no luck. Short of trying to rig up an impact wrench to break the thread lock if that would even work, I… Read more »
I have an 07 Sears 929.167244 compressor with a dead motor, all switches good, 120v gets to motor, brushes look near new, 30ampfuse good on motor. Cannot get anywhere looking up the devilbiss D30106 motor # or ECM motor #E02645-10. Is my compressor trash for no motor replacement available?
Michael, unless there is an in-line burnt fuse inside the motor cover that you haven’t found then I’d be of the opinion that the motor is toast too. However, don’t know why you don’t just Google replacement compressor motor of the same HP, voltage and shaft size. No rule that I know of says you have to use an OEM motor on a compressor pump.
Willyr: Thanks for the reply, the motor is thru bolted to the cast pump casting and drives a cogged belt to the pump. Only the mfg replacement would fit and I’ve come up emply on finding that. A complete pump!motor assy is available for $196 , the whole compressor was $178. Guess I’ll round file this one and get a new one. Thank for the reply
I bought a pallet of 41 with that exact part number at auction if interested my email is pdmotley1967@yahoo.com
Hi, I have a 919.165610 and when I power it on the centrifugal switch is clicking constantly, it still builds pressure albeit slowly. Any help you could offer would be much appreciated
I have Craftsman compressor 25 gal. Model 919.727321 serial #2116048444. For last couple of year compressor usually tripping breakers at cut in pressure. I open it an discover that plastic cover/box for capacitor is broken in few places including holding bolts opening that make it very loose and vibraitin. I suspect that this may be reason for problems. On the box is yellow sticker with numbers KCR49TN2312CX. I can’t find this part anyware. Mayby somebody… Read more »
Check to make sure that the compressor unloader / bleeder valve is operating properly. If it really is a capacitor that’s failing, some tips on finding a new one can be found here: http://fix-my-compressor.com/finding-a-new-compressor-capacitor/
Did you ever find the plastic box cover? I’ve got the same issue
HI, Appreciate your site and any help. I thought my only problem was a leaky regulator. I have a Craftsman single stage 919.167770. They don’t make the exact regulator anymore and the replacement is very similar looking but the airflow is just the opposite of the original so I had to take the plug out of one side and place in the other in order to install the gauge so I could read it properly.… Read more »
Hi John. Are you saying that the air compressor runs past the normal cut out pressure, and keeps running until the PRV cracks open to vent overpressure? Whether or not the air regulator is set for low pressure or high, that has absolutely no bearing on when the air compressor starts and stops. The function is performed by the pressure switch. If the compressor is not stopping at the normal cut out pressure level, and… Read more »
Got a quick question- I bought a replacement pressure regulator for my craftsman model 919.167244 air compressor. Can I just replace the valve/knob assembly- looks like it just screws in or should I change the pipe and all the gauges/relief valve too- seems easier if I can just change the valve
Not knowing why you need to replace the regulator I don’t know if it is the only problem. I see no need to change the other components if they are working. If the new regulator parts don’t fit the old regulator house, then just replace the whole regulator with the new.
I have a craftsman 26 gallon air compressor just changed the valve pressure switch it turns on to 125 then it just off and when the air drops it doesn’t kick in again I have to unplug the Compressor for a few minutes I plug it back and it works for a few seconds and it dies again
Is this a new issue, Maurice, since you changed the pressure switch, or did you change the pressure switch to try and fix this Craftsman compressor issue? Can you add a comment here with the model number of the compressor, and if it is plugged into a wall socket or if you are using an extension cord or power bar?
Hi I have a 7 year old Craftsman 26 gallon 1.6 HP 160 PSI Air Compressor, The compressor works fine but loses about 40 PSI of pressure a day. I tried using the soap test but cannot find a leak anywhere. I thought it is was the drain plug but that is fine. We noticed the problem when the pump which is set to auto started turning on several times per day. Where could this… Read more »
If you did the soap test of all connections and found nothing, my thought is that it is likely the tank check valve is not seating properly, and letting a small outflow of air from the tank to the unloader valve – which is open when the compressor is off – and that’s depleting the air. Try soaping the unloader valve with the compressor off and see if you get bubbles. If so, drain the… Read more »
Thank you! Now I just need to find where those parts are I am a newbie.
Bob, you don’t say which parts. If the unloader, and it’s part of the pressure switch, you’ll probably have to replace the switch. Simply Google compressor pressure switches and pick one that looks like, and has the same specs as, yours. If the tank check valve, same deal. Google compressor tank check valve and pick one that has the same appearance and same thread as yours.
Thanks again for all your help! I replaced the check valve but it did not fix the problem. The unloader valve is part of the pressure switch but that is the one part sears no longer makes. I spray all around that pressure switch with the cover on and see or hear no leaks. How exactly is air escaping the tank? I would hate to spend $60 (if I can find the switch) and have… Read more »
If you look for a pressure switch that mounts the same, has the same unloader, same voltage, same pressure range, then it will work. You don’t need an OEM switch. Where is the unloader valve on this pressure switch, on the side? Please use a 1 part dish soap to 10 part waters, fill the tank, and coat / immerse the unloader valve with the soap solution. Are you sure there is no air bleeding… Read more »
I did the soap test of the entire system could not find any leaks. Here are some pictures of the pressure switch. I don’t see an unloader valve.
It looks like your pressure switch has an internal unloader, and the line from the tank pressure feed is plugged into the bottom of it. Being very careful since there’s live power in there, let the compressor fill and cut out, take the cover off the switch, and see if you can feel or hear any air leaking.
Thanks again I will check that out. I also did buy a new pressure switch but when I received it, it had 4 ports mine also has 4 but they are arranged differently. They don’t show you pictures of the back of the pressure switch so how do you buy the correct one?
As long as you can connect the new pressure switch to the line or pipe from the tank, and it can “see” the pressure in the tank through that line, and you can connect the other accessories in any of the ports or plug an open one, and if it’s rated the same and connects the unloader the same, you’re good. If in doubt, take a photo of the switch from each side and the… Read more »
After changing the check Valve the unloader valve and now the pressure switch I finally found the leak. The leak is coming from the tool pressure turn knob. I pulled it off and air was coming from the valve. Do I need to change the tool knob valve? Sorry I do not know the correct terminology for these parts. The leak is so small and because it is under the knob it passed the soap… Read more »
A slow leak from a pressure regulator usually means that there is a diaphragm or seal leak inside. Can it be fixed? Maybe, if you can find parts, though since a general purpose 1/8″ regulator sells normally for under $20, finding parts may cost you more. So yes, if this were mine, I’d change the regulator. Make sure if you do you install the new one with the arrow on the regulator pointing to the… Read more »
Thanks I found the complete regulator assembly on amazon for $40 so I just bought that. Thanks for you help I hope this finally solves my problem.
Ok just replaced the regulator yesterday, checked this morning and no loss of pressure finally! Willyr thank you so much for all your help!
Happy that you’re compressor problem is solved. Thanks for visiting my site!
I’m at a lose, I have a craftsman 25 gallon 1.8 hp. Originally the unit was kicking the breaker at around 120 psi. Tore down the pump and discovered a gasket missing and debree in piston and intake. Cleaned everything from new oil, all new gaskets and new reed valves. Test ran the compressor and same thing happen at 100psi. Again tore into the head and found this gasket broke in same area. This time… Read more »
Brian, this compressor issue suggests to me that your valve plate has a problem with the high pressure side. When the tank pressure rises to a certain point, the high pressure valve may not be letting more air into the tank. This would cause a rapid rise in pressure inside the pump, and may lead to just the type of gasket failure you refer to. Consider replacing the valve plate. Another think just occurred to… Read more »
Thanks, in the future what kind of compressor do you recommend for home use?
Also do you have an email?
You are welcome. Picking a compressor is pretty much covered here: http://fix-my-compressor.com/how-to-buy-an-air-compressor/. If you wish to contact me, please do so via the contact page. Thanks.
I have a craftsman air compressor twin piston. Recently it would start running rough around 80psi to the point of dimming the lights and tripping the breaker after it continuesly ran. The top of the head would be very hot to the touch. I took the compressor apart and discovered the gasket around one of the reed valves to be missing. I replaced 4 reed valves,all gaskets and new oil. Once all new parts were… Read more »
Please see the page on this site about checking your compressor motor capacitors. That’s where I would start.
I have a craftsman twin cyl Mod. 919166330which will not build any pressure. I replaced the check valve and the valve plates. Where else do I look?
I would have thought that this page answers that, Bill? http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-will-not-build-pressure/
I’m sorry but none of my unit manuals identify a down loader valve. Only the check
valve and the safety valve are identified. Disconnecting the pressure relief tube tells there is pressure from the pump but none in the tank. The check valve is new.
Any ideas?
I an not able to identify what you mean by pressure relief tube? Are you speaking of the tube from the pump to the tank? If so, how are you monitoring that pressure? Are you able to stop the outflow by putting a gloved finger over the port? I, too, do not know what you mean by a down loader valve. If you are referring to what I know as an unloader valve, that component… Read more »
Yes, it does about 5lbs. The pressure relief tube runs from the check valve to the the switch and unloader valve. If I disconnect the tube from pump to check valve I can stop the discharge from the pump with my thumb. The discharge does seem small but I have nothing to compare. This is a large compressor and I would expect more. Do you think I have a pump issue??
Yes. I would suspect that a pump kit is in order, and include in that the piston rings if, when it is running, air is venting out of the oil fill tube… assuming this model has one. I am unable to determine that.
I have a Craftsman Model 919.165110 compressor. Put in a new capacitor ( thought that was the problem)..runs for 3 seconds then trips the breaker…any idea’s??
If it runs for only 3 seconds, and it’s not the start cap, I’d wonder about the overall power supply? Can you tell us how you are getting power to the compressor, the amperage of the circuit, and what’s all on the same circuit that is feeding the compressor?
I have a Craftsman portable air compressor, Model #921153101. It will build up pressure rather quickly until it reaches about 90-100 psi, at which point, it trickles (1-2 psi per minute) up to over 100 psi. It never reaches the 125 psi cut-out, and the compressor smells like it is getting too hot so I end up manually shutting it off in fear of it over-heating. Any ideas on what this could be, or, is… Read more »
First, make sure of the power supply with no extension cores being used. Then it probably would be a good thing to check that the tank check valve is working, and then next, check the capacitors, Brian. If all is good with them, it may be necessary to tear down the pump and install a valve plate and gasket kit, as the next thing I would check is the valves.
I have a Craftsman air compressor model # 919.167812 that I am having problems with the pressure switch. I have installed 2 and every time the cut switch/ unloader when the compressor reaches the cutoff pressure the motor shuts down and the unloader starts spewing until it reaches the cut on pressure the motor comes on and it stops spewing. If you turn the switch to the off position and the unloader starts spewing until… Read more »
I suspect you don’t have a pressure switch issue Randy, but a leaking tank check valve. Please see the pages on this site about how they work together with the unloader to better understand why I say this.
I have checked the tank check valve that on my compressor mounts in front of the pressure switch. When you pull it, it releases air and will quit when released.
Randy, what you are referring to, I believe, is your compressor PRV. That is not the tank check valve. Please read the pages on this site about tank check valves and how they interact with the unloader valve attached to the pressure switch.
Willy you were absolutely correct pulled the valve and cleaned it. The compressor is working properly again. Thanks for the help.
Glad to have helped.
In my 60 gallon, 3.1HP twin cylinder oil lubricated 150 psi compressor, the motor has failed. It was working just fine and now won’t start. Taking off the panel on the motor itself, I can measure 240VAC inside the motor which turns off when I switch off the on/off switch on the pressure switch. The only circuit that is inside the motor that could be keeping it off is the thermal shutdown cutoff. That button… Read more »
The thermal reset or cut out switch is just that, a switch. If you probe both sides with your meter you can tell if the switch is passing. If it is not, given that the motor is cold through none use, the thermal cut out could have failed. If it is passing power however, I would be inclined to actually test the motor cap, not just see if they “look good”. Make sure you check… Read more »
Hi – I have a three year old craftsman 33 gallon vertical compressor model 921.165720. rated to 165 psi. Problem started last year and Sears will not service the unit for some reason – at least my local one wouldn’t. From what i could find last year and still holding true this year, the unit runs to about 80 psi and shuts off. They only way to get it back on and continue is to… Read more »
Just wondering if you are using an extension cord or not, Scott? Try plugging the compressor into a circuit with nothing else on it, preferably a 20 amp breaker or fuse. Does that make any difference. From what you have written I suspect either a failing run capacitor which would cause the motor to run hot, and go off on thermal. That it is going off on thermal cut out isn’t a bad thing, and… Read more »
Thanks for the reply. The compressor is plugged in directly to outlet – no extension cord – and this is the only outlet on the circuit breaker (know for sure as I installed it to support Christmas lights). Problem is it take 30 mins or so of plug, unplug, plug, etc to get it filled once, Do that over 3 zones for a sprinkler and what should be a nice quick winterizing takes 4 hours… Read more »
I’m still guessing the start cap.
Hi, I have an older 6 gal. Sears model: 919.165281 oil-less pancake, it has no un-loader valve on the (mechanically controlled / electrical contact) pressure switch (AC-0747) 110 on – 135 off. From what I have read in the forums here, it is not necessary, since it is small. However, it seems apparent to me that I should be able to replace the mechanically controlled contact pressure switch with an electrical one (e.g. VA811502PF or… Read more »
Even though this is a small air compressor, we’d be willing to bet there is an unloader of sorts. If you pull the shroud and look at the line from the small compressor pump to the tank, can you spot a small hole? That’s the unloader. When the compressor stops, this small hole bleeds all the air out from over the piston. That it also bleeds air while the compressor is running, wasting air and… Read more »
I have a craftsman 26 gal oil free direct drive air compressor model #921.64710. it builds pressure up to about 80ish (pretty consistent) and then cuts out. if I let it sit for awhile and turn it back on it will continue to build air and finally reach it max PSI of 150 but does not cut back on after pressure drops from use. I attempted to test the capacitors and if I did so… Read more »
That you checked to see if power is still passing the switch or not when the compressor cuts out suggests that the problem is NOT the pressure switch. That brings us to why it’s cutting out at all? If it’s not the switch, then it’s got to do with the power supply to the motor, or the motor itself. What we don’t know is if there is a compromised power supply. The use of a… Read more »
I have a craftsman compressor, 20 gal, 220 volt with 2 piston pump.the loader valve on the regulator was always leaking causing the compressor to kick on and off. I replaced the regulator and the new one leaked. Found the tank check valve was faulty , I repaired that and now when the compressor is running it sounds like it’s missing a beat every so often. can you tell why? Thanks AL.
Al, like to help, but really we cannot hear what you mean by missing a beat. Hopefully someone our there is experiencing the same Craftsman compressor problem and can offer a solution. Good luck.
I have a craftsman 80 gal. Compressor runs but will not go past 50lbs sounds like I’m hearing air coming from some where but not sure what to check. Thanks in advance for your help
These compressor issues are covered on a number of pages on this site, Tommy…
… to show just a few.
Please have a look, do the checks, and add a comment here with your findings if you still need help.
I have a Sears compressor model 106.153780 it’s a pretty old compressor. The issue is, when the compressor reaches 70psi the compressor pump seems burdened then the motor bogs down. I quickly shut off the breaker to avoid and damage.
So far I’ve checked:
Pump oil – full
Check valve – Ok (air goes to from pump to tank and not vice versa)
Flappers – seem ok and operating
Any other ideas?
Good that you’ve checked the things on your Craftsman compressor that you have. Assuming a good power supply, no intake filter blocked, the pump sheave turns relatively easy, the next check would be the start / run capacitor. Some have one cap, some compressors have two. Check ’em all.
Ok, so I’ve gotten the first issue fixed. It was the check valve. I filed the ring impression out of the valve and extended the spring adding more tension to the valve. I replaced the electrical cord adding a new plug and replaced the brittle cord from the motor to the switch. The compressor now runs and shuts off normally however it shuts off at 60 psi. When in use it kicks on and off… Read more »
Good on you for the work on your compressor, Dan. Okay, next question… when the compressor shuts off at 60 PSI, is there power on the motor side of the pressure switch? You’ll need a meter to check… carefully please. If there is power on the motor side of the switch and the compressor is off, then the switch is likely OK, and that points to the motor as being the problem. What did you… Read more »
Hi, I have a Craftsman Model # 919165220 20 gallon single stage. It seems to run and fill up fine but occasionally will give a loud high pitched squeal while running. I’ve noticed it’s more likely to do it after the tank has been completely emptied and the pressure passes 30psi as it refills. I’ve tried to pinpoint it with a mechanics stethoscope with no luck. I’ve ruled out any loose fasteners or fittings. The… Read more »
First off, yup, a gasket leak or valve plate flutter might cause the noise. However, if the compressor is working fine otherwise, and the noise is not too intrusive, eventually what’s causing the sound may ultimately give up the ghost, and then you are into compressor repair. Since you cannot see sound, pulling the pump apart to check may not be productive. However, if there are other symptoms, it does sound (pun intended) that your… Read more »
Thanks, The noise is very loud. Not bearable for long. I’m going to open it up and see what the valve plate looks like. A new plate isn’t too much. I’m not getting the feeling like it’s a bearing. I sprayed some lube on the crank joints with no effect. In my experience as an auto mechanic, a shot of lube will temporarily quiet a noisy bearing enough to make a diagnosis. This just seems… Read more »
I have a Craftsman 3 gallon 1 hp air compressor bought in 2007. Just used it this morning and went to turn it on again and only heard a clicking sound from the switch box, I believe it is called the pressure switch. I release the pressure after every use. Can I repair this myself or bring it to Sears for repair? If it is worth it.
Bob, sure you can fix it yourself if you are handy. Is it worth it? Depends on the repair cost versus new, we guess. If you see this page it will offer some further guidance: http://fix-my-compressor.com/clicking-air-compressor/
I have a craftsman 919-164180 that starts but stops immediately i took it apart and put it back together and it turned on twice then started acting up again. I had the stop/start capacitors checked and they tested good although one was kinda warm. Any thoughts?
When the compressor stops, is the pressure switch still passing power to the motor circuit? In other words, it is not the pressure switch tripping off prematurely that is shutting the compressor down, even though the tank pressure is not yet at cut out?
I have a crafstman model 919137670 compressor. The compressor is not automatically restarting. The intial start will fill the tank to 120 PSI. Regardless of the device that I use once the PSI drops below the recommended PSI for that device the compressor will take about 5-10 minutes before it restarts. I have already replaced the air compressor check valve model # A19718 due to the motor not restarting once the PSI drops below the… Read more »
We believe that the answer to your compressor problem can be found here: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-wont-re-start-when-air-is-used/ , and: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-trips-the-breaker-when-the-pressure-drops/ .
Hi, I have a Craftsman Twin Tank air compressor. When I turn it out, the pressure can only build up to 40 psi, it doesn’t go any further. Can you please guide me how to fix it? Thanks.
Sure Chris. It’s pretty much all covered here: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-will-not-build-pressure/.
Thank you Willy!
Can anyone help me with my 6 hp 30 gal 120v Craftsman oil-less single cylinder compressor?
Every time I use it, the surge protector I had it hooked up too would always trip every time the compressor would reach cut out pressure. When I plug the compressor directly to the wall socket without the surge protector, the circuit breaker would trip once compressor hits cut out pressure also. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
We suspect you’ve got a faulty pressure switch, that somehow is shorting out when the compressor reaches the cut out pressure setting and the pressure switch tries to switch the power supply to the compressor motor off.
Actually i just took out my compressor out of storage, plugged it to a wall socket, turned it on, and checked to see if it would repeat the problem. i have not yet changed anything on the compressor yet. as of right now, the compressor did not even reach cut out pressure. the cut out pressure for my switch is set to 135psi, my compressor stopped working and tripped the circuit breaker at 90psi. im… Read more »
What could cause this to happen? I am at a loss
There are a number of reasons, Juwan. Please look at the troubleshooting pages on this site that have to do with air compressors tripping breakers, blowing fuses, etc. After doing so, comment with what you have checked, if you will.
I have a craftsman compressor model919.167240 it continualy goes on and off . the switch seems to fine. while looking at it while pressure is building, the switch does not dissengage but the motor will stop. then it will start again. different amounts of time but it constantly does this. Anyone have any ideas?
When it stops, how long is it before it starts again? Good that you checked to see if the pressure switch was tripping on and off. If it’s not, then that points to, perhaps, the motor overheating a bit and going off on thermal cut out. Overheating could be caused by using it too long at one time, an insufficient power supply (too long or too small extension cored) or perhaps a capacitor failing.
I have a Craftsman twin cylinder compressor model 106.152581 that lately has been spitting oil out of what I believe to be a breather hole in the bearing cap. This cap is on the same side of the compressor that has the pulley. From my own online research it looks like it could be the cylinder rings. These rings are no longer available on the Sears Parts Direct website. My question is could the problem… Read more »
We are not quite sure how air would be blowing oil out the cap. A check on line shows that this bearing cap has a bearing gasket and an oil seal. If either were damaged that might account for the oil leak. These parts are available on line. We would replace these first and see if the problem was resolved before considering tearing down the pump to check the piston rings.
I have a good one for you… I have an old Craftsman 2 cylinder compressor. At least 40 years old. It originally had a 1hp motor (according to the sticker). It used to have intermittent issues with restarting (centrifugal switch wouldn’t unload) and it would pop the breaker occasionally. Recently it got worse. I have: 1. Rewired with new 12 gauge cord. 2. Replaced the pressure switch (including unloader valve). 3. Replaced the belt. 4.… Read more »
Hi Dave. Lots of work refurbishing the compressor. Sorry that you are still having a problem. We doubt that it’s the check valve at fault, however, it never hurts to do a quick check. See a guide on this site. If you had not changed the motor (presumably with new capacitors) we would think that a failing capacitor might be at fault. It might be the power supply. If the problem is a new one,… Read more »
Very informative, interesting, and practical for diagnosing and repairing air compressors. I have a free 15 gal 3 hp Craftsman compressor that is not working and would really like to get going and use for years to come. We live in a throw away society these days and will only get more pronounced with time. I love to be able to service and repair used/older equipment and know that some sweat equity , patience, and… Read more »
i have a craftsman 919.167241 it builds up to about 40-45 lbs of pressure and keeps running but wont build any more pressure . i have to shut it off manually but it holds pressure with out leaking down. where should i start looking for the problem?
Hi there. The reasons are pretty much covered here: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-will-not-build-pressure/ .
Maybe you could add a comment telling us what you found when you did the checks?
First of all – Fantastic WEB site! I’m in the middle of my first compressor repair on my Craftsman 20 gallon. Pretty sure, based on all the articles, my check valve is leaking, since my unloader valve is leaking air now after shutdown. Its been a very slow leak for months, as my compressor (normally left on overnight) would suddenly start up for no reason and fill the tank back up. My check valve is… Read more »
Mike, thanks for your kind words. To remove the check valve, first use the PRV or tank drain to void ALL air from the system. Remove the two lines. Use an appropriate sized wrench on the wrench flats (no, not normally channel locks – we prefer sized wrenches or next best a good combination wrench) to turn the fitting out of the tank. The check part of the valve is typically a ball or flap… Read more »
Hello, I have a craftsman 30 gal. air compressor item number 919.167310. It never reaches the cut out pressure and shuts off. It reaches 80 p.s.i. and, though it is still running, the pressure will not rise above 80 p.s.i. I have no leaks, the tube to the check valve get significantly hot (maybe that’s normal given where the other end connects on the motor/piston). Can you give me any ideas what may be wrong?… Read more »
Charles, we think you will find that you have a pump problem. This compressor has what we call a mini-pump, pulls air in through a hole in the top of the cylinder we believe, and that your compressor runs on but won’t build past 80 PSI suggests the problem is valve, seals or gaskets. These topics are covered in detail on the pages of this site. Please have a look.
I have an old 919152940 that wont build pressure in the tank. The regulator dial will build to just shy of 20 psi but the tank pressure never moves. Any suggestions?
Your 919.152940 shows 20 PSI on the gauge and the tank gauge shows zero? OK, the regulator gauge may only be displaying the pressure setting it’s been dialed to. The tank gauge should show a pressure level, and if it isn’t, then we would suspect that the gauge itself is pooched. Pull the plug, dump all tank air, and then pull and replace the tank gauge or, if they are the same size and thread… Read more »
My Sears Craftsman compressor is about 4 and a half years old, model 921.153101. After operating it for a short time, I lose pressure to the hose. The gauges show compression but if I remove the hose there is no quick release of air. If I push the hose back into the quick connect, pressure returns to the hose but only briefly. Any ideas as to what the problem is???
We were not able to find a photo of your 1 HP or 1.5 HP compressor on a 3 gallon tank in order to see the regulator set up. Regardless, the symptom you write about, losing air flow to the hose, are ably covered on this page on this site: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressed-air-will-not-come-out-of-the-air-hose/ .
If you would have a look at this page and relate it to your compressor, we suspect you’ll resolve this Craftsman air compressor problem.
I ran my Craftsman 4 gallon air compressor 1 HP, without oil for about 15 minutes. Now when I turn it on it just hums for about 4 seconds and then shuts down. Did I cook the cylinder and should I junk the machine? It was almost new. Mike N
It’s hard to give a specific answer without more details, Mike. You don’t indicate your model number so we don’t have any idea what Craftsman compressor you are referring to. If you can access the motor shaft by removing any shroud, and can check the drive, see if you can rotate the pump sheave, if there is one, by hand. What you are trying to determine is if the overheating your compressor probably underwent has… Read more »
I have an old Sears air compressor, 1hp 12 gallon tank model 919.176311. I got from my uncle after he passed, and it worked fine for the past few years, but the other day I went to use it and the motor was just clicking, after a while I tried it again and it will start up like it supposed to but in about 20 seconds it trips the circuit breaker. Its a 20 amp… Read more »
We think you might have nailed it. If we were working on this Craftsman (Sears) air compressor we would certainly check the motor capacitors. If you haven’t found it, there’s a page on this site with how.
I am trying to rewire an older craftsman 220v compressor 106.174841. The motor has only two lines and I don’t see a ground screw on the pressure switch. How do I connect the 3 wires from the plug to a motor with two wires via a switch with 4 terminals?
Thank you for your help
While we have no problem tearing down and rewiring our own compressors, we are not certified electricians, and cannot provide electrical advice. We are happy to post this in the hope that someone that is an electrician will provide the information for you.
I figured I wouldn’t be able to get far. Thank you for reviewing my question and getting back to me
Stay tuned. I expect someone with electrical experience will provide advice.
Hello, I have Craftsman compressor model #919.167783. For a while it was struggling to reach the 150psi cut-off. I opened it up and found that the pair of cyl sleeves were badly worn and my rings had taken a set. I ordered repair kits K-0648 & K-0650 to replace these parts. After installation I found that my compressor would build pressure up to ~30PSI and then sit there, not increase. With compressor off there was… Read more »
Chad, you’ve done a bunch of work on your 919.167783. Good on your for doing that. Your diagnosis and work could have resolved the Craftsman issue. Certainly, if you found badly worn sleeves and rings, and valves needed replacing that’s all good. A couple of things occur to us. First off, you don’t mention gaskets. A worn gasket, or a crimped-on-installation gasket can produce the issue of no leaks, everything appearing to work, yet the… Read more »
compressor fan kit KK-5018 shot out of the compressor in pieces in December of 2014, we replaced it in January 2015 and one week ago it did the same thing. Can you please advise as to why this would be occurring?
April, from what we’ve seen, when the fan is installed the bolt threads in so that it tightens as the fan turns. It’s certainly not normal that it flies out, and very much not normal that it flies out in pieces.
The in pieces suggests that the fan housing is impacting something under the shroud. Can you ensure that this is not happening?
Anyone else had this problem. Sorry, I don’t know the compressor model number.
I had the same problem one day and noticed the fan blades, which are hard plastic had been decimated to nothing but some pieces. I just figured in that the unit was 15-18 years old or more that it had gotten brittle. Nothing was rubbing on them, from cover or anything else that I saw. Need to install new one to keep cool…
So the pressure switch on my Sears compressor 919.195411 is shot. Often won’t shut off and the pressure release valve has to come on. So of course Sears doesn’t make the part anymore and they have no alternate. My options are to buy one they sell for the latest model, but it doesn’t have an unloader valve on it. Is it possible to just add another unloader valve to the side of the tank check… Read more »
If it were us, we would simply acquire a new, non-OEM pressure switch with the same configuration as the old. Many of the pressure switches used on smaller DIY air compressors available in the U.S. and Canada are made by the same couple of companies in China, and are simply marketed under different brand names. If your compressor is still under warranty – then, of course – see the vendor for replacement parts. If not,… Read more »
Good advice. It is not under warranty. I did a google search for similar pressure switches, but can’t find anything close for an off-brand replacement other than the Condor one I mentioned. If you know of any other sites etc to look at that would be helpful. Thanks in advance!
Condor is a good make. If you’ve got access to that one, not much point in looking we would think.
919.195410 >> This compressor gets to 140 psi and cuts off and I can run the regulator to 90 psi for my IR impact gun and the gun gets air BUT it will not back a lug off my 1/2 ton truck. This Gun has 600ft lbs and is more than enough to rip a lug off this truck. I actually bought a second gun identical to mine and tried it and the same thing… Read more »
Difficult to be certain, but from what you’ve written, I would suspect that the regulator itself is the problem. Sometimes the regulator innards get wonky and restrict the flow of air through it. That being the case, though you see 90 PSI on the regulator gauge, the flow to the tool is so slow that the air tool cannot generate the power it should. If you are handy, tee off the discharge line before the… Read more »
919.195410 >>>I replaced the whole regulator with aftermarket one. I even tried 100 psi this time and still will not back off a lug nut .. I thought it might be the 2 1/2 in extension but I cant get a DEEP impact socket to fit cause the walls are to thick to fit the lug nut. Im using MCGuard lug nuts. I bought a Dewalt dcf889B 400ft lbs cordless impact just now. I hope… Read more »
If the air tool has the strength, if the flow to the air tool is correct, and if the pressure of the air to the air tool is correct, then your lug nut should come off. If it’s not, something is out of line. I still suggest that you tee off before the regulator and use full pressure… or, is there any chance there is a blockage in the line preventing adequate air flow to… Read more »
I think your onto something. I ordered a new goodyear 3/8 hose and Ive been reading that most shops use straight pressure on impact guns. I will try to hook the new hose up to the line before the regulator BUT at this time we got 15 inches of snow so I’m going to wait till spring to further my attempts to get this impact to work. My compressor goes to around 145psi ish so… Read more »
We’re all hoping… already… for warmer weather Ed. Good luck with the effort, and we expect this site will be here when you’re ready to update. Cheers!
Hey Willy . Was 60 degrees today so I decided to continue the compressor fix. I did what you said. I took off the regulator completely. I bought a new goodyear 3/8 hose and hooked that directly to the tank. I then tried to take off lug nut and again no go. BUT we both had the right idea. Heres what was wrong . I was using a 4 inch extension on the gun. I… Read more »
Ed, so glad it worked out. Good on you. And a very Merry Christmas to you and yours.