Kobalt air compressors are the house brand of the Lowes of big box store fame.
Made for Lowes, the Kobalt line of air compressors is powered by electric motors and come in portable and fixed styles. The range of motors is from 1.5 HP up to 5 HP.
These motors power a range of Kobalt compressors, small 3 gallon tanked units with a 1.5 HP motor up to the 5 HP vertical fixed style with an 80 gallon tank.
We would categorize the Kobalt line of air compressors as mid-use. By this we mean that we would have no problem acquiring a Kobalt compressor for our home workshop or garage. We might even purchase a Kobalt compressor for our work, assuming that our use of compressed air was incremental, and not used continuously. If we were looking for a compressor to do work for us 8 hours a day, five days a week, we probably would not buy the Kobalt air compressors range.
Here’s why. After sales service.
Who Makes Kobalt Air Compressors ?
Like all department stores or big box stores, the stores do not make their own house brand products. They outsource, and that source will change from time to time.
At any point you might buy a Kobalt air compressor made by YY Company, and it may be possible to get the same model air compressor made by ZZ Company. Where do you get parts? Who do you talk to about service?
Your air compressor will eventually break down. When, not if, it does, who looks after you?
That’s why we would tend to steer clear of any big box store house brand air compressor if we needed one for production purposes. We would always go to an industrial compressor distributor, one that has the expertise and the parts to get us back up and running when the need occurred.
Having said all that, for light use, no worries. Buy the cheapest Kobalt air compressor that does the job – that means has the air flow you need for your air tools – and when it breaks, by and large you’ll toss it out and buy another.
Do you have a Kobalt air compressor? Care to share your thoughts on them? If so, please provide the model number too so that others can read how you feel about your Kobalt.
I have a Kobalt Air Compressor Model# VLK1582609 1 1/2 HP Motor with 26 gallon Tank and 155 psig max pressure. Looking for the 3 prong reed air intake valve as one of the prongs broke on mine. Does anyone have one or can they fabricate one?
Like yourself, I’ve found that this model of Kobalt compressor is out of stock, with no parts available anywhere.
I wasn’t able to find a photo of the intake valve plate you refer to. I do know that some folks have had success of using the old one as a template to fabricate a new one. They report using the blade from a decent quality paint scraper as the material, or, some purchase shim stock or spring steel for that purpose.
If anyone has done this successfully, please add a comment here for Daniel’s benefit. Thanks.
Thank you, I will try a paint scrapper. Dan
When gettin the scraper, try to get one with the blade thickness similar to the valve plate. Also, when cutting the scraper, I believe that if it is clamped to a thing board, cutting the metal becomes a bit easier with a thin metal cutting blade.
I have a Kobalt 3 gallon 2.6 cfm 90psi model #0200382 trying to fing a piston ring for it. not sure how to put it on the piston the top of the piston does not have a bolt to remove it. may need to buy a piston with one installed. Cannot find any parts for it under the kobalt model # . the piston rod says Huaning not much help
I just bought an 80 gallon two stage Kobalt compressor model xc802000. While unloading from my pickup the compressor fell on the head assembly cover and I broke and bent a few heat sink fins and broke out the area that the air filter screws into. Can the cover be replaced? Can this be repaired?
Oh, bad luck, Larry. I’ve uploaded a photo from Lowes to let folks see what we’re talking about.
I don’t believe that the bending of the heat sink fins, particularly if they can be carefully straightened, is a bid issue. If they are cast, that’s a problem, though if they bent and didn’t break, presumably they can be straighted. It would depend on how much damage, I expect.
When you say it ” broke out the area that the air filter screws into”, are you saying that the threaded port is broken, and a new or replacement filter wouldn’t thread in? Please respond with a comment, and if you could upload a photo of the damaged area with your response, it would sure help.
Do you know where I can get a 60 gallon replacement Tank for a model K7060HFY?
Jamie, what are the specs on this Kobalt compressor. We can find no information about a K7060HFY compressor at all. Perhaps you might, when you provide the specs as a reply here, add a photo of your compressor and another of the tank too?
I’m curious, did the tank you wish to replace rust out?
Yes the tank rusted out. Model K7060HFY item number 134819. That the Kobalt compressor info. 60 gallon ASME tank, 3.5 HP 135 max PSI, 7HP peak, 230 single phase 16amps. I can send a picture of tank if you need that. Yesterday when filling it blew a hole out the bottom. It had been in my barn for the last 10 years.
Sure good that you’re changing it out then, Jamie. That’s one dangerous situation. Here’s the thing, as long as you can attach the pump to the the tank, and plumb the pressure switch to read the tank pressure, you can use any tank you want. Replacement tanks are expensive, for sure. Fortunately, as compared to the cost of a new compressor with a 3.5 HP motor and pump, the tank becomes proportionally less expensive.
When I browse for replacement 60 gallon compressor tanks I see money.
You should too, and compare them to yours. One source for a new tank, and a source that can probably add the mount you need is this one.
Good luck, and please let us know how it turned out, would you?
where can you get a motor for a 80 gallon 2 stage Kobalt compressor
Anthony. It depends where you are. Local industrial stores may have them, electrical motor rebuild shops, or even on line. Doesn’t matter what make of motor you use as long as it fits the footprint on the compressor and the RPM, voltage and shaft dimension is the same.
I have an 8 gallon Kobalt “hot dog” air compressor that the quick connector broke off inside the cowling. Any idea how to replace or if it can be replaced?
Same unit, same thing happened to mine. Were you able to get it fixed? Or ? Hubs is taking mine apart now.
KLA1683066 30 gallon kobalt. The compressor build pressure very slow seems like it take 10 mins plus to get to max pressure will not keep up with spray guns or tools. Any ideas on the issue?
You would have to remove the cowling, and if the remainder is not accessible, then the use of a broken bolt extractor would be used to remove the remainder.
Thank you fro your reply. It appears to be one piece unit that connects to the tank and tool pressure gauges and it looks like the threaded portion broke off or is completely stripped out.
Hi: I have a Kobalt air compressor model# VLK 1582609 99007 26 gal. 175 psi. I noticed lately that it was not reaching max. pressure and know it is only getting up to about 120psi and sounds like it is struggling. I opened up the cover and noticed it looks like the piston ring is deformed or splitting. Do you think this could be the problem? Do you or anyone else know if this part is still available? Thanks
If the piston ring is malformed, that would suggest that the pump head has been run to the point where it’s been overheated at some time. Sure, a bad pump seal could cause the issue. If you Google “spare parts for Kobalt VLK 1582609 air compressor”, you may find sources. Otherwise, measure the dimensions of the piston ring, and source it by Googling “replacement piston rings” and locate one with the same dimensions. The low-end compressor suppliers do not make their own rings.
Assessment above appears to correct. I bought a Kobalt 5 gal a/c a few years back, model 0320541,and can not find replacement parts online (check valve, airfilter). Lowes tell me I have to go into the store to order the parts.
Thanks for that Chris. A couple of things. One, it will most likely be hard to find anyone in a Lowes store that knows anything about their compressors and the parts you mention can be ordered as after market. They don’t have to be Kobalt brand.
On my 8 gal. Compressor model# 0300841 manifold broke need replacement. Cheap metal. I need a replacement
Please add a comment with a couple of photos of the manifold in question.
Have the same air compressor model & looking for a replacement manifold/regulator. Any idea where I can find one? Nothing on the internet.
Michael, I’m not sure to what model Kobalt you are referring. Please add a comment with your model number and/or a couple of photos of the compressor from each side. Thanks.
I have a Kobalt model # K7580V2 that I bought used. I have a question about the motor reset switch. One of the wires has come loose on the back of the switch. Would someone please advise me on the proper wiring of this switch?
Thank you
This post moved to the Kobalt page.
Here’s some info that may help. Good luck.
I’m trying to find a Kobalt Air Compressor model# 0332041, replacement regulator.
Kobalt part#- WCFATY.04.05.
The nomenclature on the compressor is 20 gal, 1.8 HP, 150 max psi.
The attachment is the exploded view of the parts page and the part is #30.
I’ve contacted Kobalt, Sears, Lowes, and 3 online parts links with no success.
Thank you in advance for your assistance.
Joshua, I’ve moved your comment to the Kobalt compressor page. If you scroll down this page you will dozens of posts about just this situation, with some tips and suggestions.
You will not likely find a replacement regulator for this manifold. You may find a repair kit for it, and there are companies on the net that offer parts for Kobalt compressor manifolds, and I suggest you contact them about getting a repair kit for yours. Or, rebuild the manifold using standard brass fittings and use a readily available and low cost general purpose regulator in place of this piece of junk.
I have had my compressor 215902 for more then ten years and have had no problems until about 6 months ago. It runs and holds air but when I try to air something up it doesn’t work it will not let any air out and I have tried everything I could think of
If it’s the same hose, and the same coupler out of the compressor, and you are sure that there isn’t something blocking the hose or either coupler / connector, then I would suggest that the regulator may have failed shut. Try adjusting the regulator down to zero and back up to the pressure you want. Any change?
I had a piston and the fan break on the pump for my Kobalt 0300841. Is there anywhere I can order parts for this model?
Contact them here: https://www.kobalttools.com/contact-us . It doesn’t look good for parts. Is there another number besides 0300841?
i have an older 60 stand up Kobalt compressor. I bought it used worked good for a couple of years now air is leaking out of what appears to be an oil breather. What is my problem? Any idea.
Hi Chuck. If by “breather” you mean the intake filter, then this page addresses that: https://fix-my-compressor.com/air-coming-out-the-intake-filter/
If it’s not that, please add a comment with an update, and if you can, a photo of the compressor area where the leak is. Thanks.
Kobalt air compressor 20 gallon model number 0332041 replacement part tool pressure regulator, 3 year old, need to find a replacement tool pressure regulator WCFATY.04.05, have searched google and web, no luck, any help greatly appreciated..
Tucson AZ
I can’t see under the cover, but I expect when you remove it you’ll find a cast manifold with all of the ports machined in. This process makes the manufacture and assembly of these components less costly, but as often happens with companies that make products for the low-end market, the cost of trying to fix it becomes solely the buyer.
Having said that, uncover the regulator manifold and upload a photo of it if you will. I suspect you’ll be replacing the whole manifold by building one out of brass fittings – all of which should be available from a decent plumbing or compressed air supplier.
Photos attached
Sorry, no photos arrived. I am checking as it appears as though the upload button has a glitch. Will advise when corrected. Sorry about that, software upgrade.
Matt, it appears as though the software is now working again should you get this and care to add photos.
Well said about “after sale service”, Unfortunately it’s true, It’s like buying lawn mowers and string trimmers from Lowe’s or Home Depot, Few if any parts are available at the stores, except for MAYBE air filters and blades. That’s something I miss about Sears. They had their own service department and I could order just about any replacement part on-line.
I have a Kobalt 0300841 8-Gallon Portable Electric Horizontal Air Compressor.
The machine does not shut off when it reaches pressure so I assume t needs to have the pressure pressure switch replaced.
When I removed the two screws holding the cover, the top only comes up an inch or so.
I don’t want to force it and make my problem worse.
Am I missing another screw or something?
Where can I get an exploded view of the unit so I can see how to proceed?
Great! The parts description and numbers weren’t part of the jpg. The pressure switch that I was referring to is mounted under the motor and looks like mounted to the tank.
I’ve tried to accumulate your many posts and put them in one. If I’ve erred, I apologize.
Please add another comment with a couple of photos of the pressure switch. Thanks.
Is this the switch I need to get to?
That is the pressure switch. Does the compressor run until the PRV cracks open every time?
Yes, it runs until it pops it’s cork!
Well, it sure sounds like a failed pressure switch. If you Google Kobalt compressor pressure switches you’ll find a bunch of sources.
I noticed that if I light hold the PRV the tank motor stops right before tank pressure reaches the reaches the red line. So is it the pressure switch or the PRV?
Alex, when you “lightly hold the PRV” am I to understand that you are pushing in on the piston on the end, and preventing the PRV from opening, and when you do that, the tank pressure builds to … what pressure, please? The red line means nothing to me since I cannot see your compressor.
If you tell me at what pressure the compressor kicks off when you hold the PRV, I should be able to determine if the issue is the switch or the PRV, but right now, I cannot. Please provide a bit more info. Thanks.
Sure looks like the same thing. Thanks for your help. (Cool interference pattern from monitor too.)
Sure does. Good luck.
Just some feedback on Lowes Kobalt.
The pressure switch that I got had the right specs but the thread size was too big.
I have the part number I need from the owners manual and on the part itself ( different numbers ) but it seems these pressure switch numbers are nowhere to be found on the internet,
I’m not sure, the part may be proprietary to Kobalt.
I have called the Lowes Kobalt customer service department repeatedly at different times of the day. The recording says they are sorry, busy, virus, etc and to call back later. Then it hangs up on you!
I called corporate customer service and after a short hold, IT hung up on me.
I hear from store employees that there is a new head honcho at corporate.
He could be stream lining me out of being a Lowes customer.
Many of the in store items that other store didn’t have are being discontinued there too.
Can anyone please help, i was draining our 80 gallon compressor and the piece that screws on the screw came off and now i cannot find it. Where would i get another one like this to replace it?
Google “replacement compressor tank drain” and acquire a complete one. You’ll have a time getting the old one out, I’d expect.
Yes two wires that come out of bottom of motor on a 26gallon quiet tech compressor ones power cord and other don’t know
When you say one of them is the power cord, does that cord have two wires in it? Please add a couple of photos, Cody. It’s hard to visualize as we cannot see your compressor.
Both tires are bad on my air compressor. How do I change them?
Don’t know what model of Kobalt you have, so cannot check at this time. Please add a comment with the model number of your compressor, and a photo of the whole compressor and another of the wheels. Thanks.
I just bought a Kobalt QUIET TECH 26-Gallon Single Stage Portable Electric Vertical Air Compressor. Got it home, turned it on, nice and quiet, built up to the max 150psi in about 5 minutes. Then using air tools pressure dropped well below the 120psi kick in pressure, but the motor never came on again. Went back to Lowes, got another one, and it did exactly the same thing. The manager at Lowes asked me if I laid it down to transport, which I did, But I don’t see how that would have an effect with a non-oiled compressor which is brand new with no water in the tank.
It may have attempted to start once, but that was it. Maybe pointing to the bad unloader valve symptoms I’ve seen discussed?
Any ideas????
Update:
I just observed the unloader valve while the motor would not run and tank pressure at about 75psi. The pin was all the way up, and pushing on it did nothing. Released all air from tank, turned switch on, and it’s running once again. While building pressure the unloader pin is now down (extended) and it I push on it air is released.
The page about unloader valves, click here for it, explains how the unloader valve works with the pressure switch.
From what you are saying, yours is working backwards. It’s supposed to vent air when the compressor is off, and close to stop air escaping when the compressor is on.
Looks like it’s not the unloader. I discovered it will work plugged into one outlet, but not another. Both on the same 15amp breaker. The compressor is rated at 12 amps. This breaker has always been borderline for the garage. But with this compressor it will buzzz when trying to start, but shut itself down before it pops the breaker.
Can you suggest a good replacement? I’ve looked at the Makita Mac2400 Electric Air Compressor,2.5 Hp,115v, Size: 4.2 Gal., and it, based on reviews seems like a good unit.
When a motor starts it used quite a bit more power on startup than when running. A 2.5 HP motor, for example, may need between 18-22 amps of power supply to enable the motor to start without load. With load it would be higher. That two plugs with 15 amps supply on the same circuit gives different starting results may suggest an under-power scenario. Do you have a 20 amp supplied somewhere that you can test the compressor on?
As to what compressor to get and buying it… here is some objective information you need to assess first.
https://fix-my-compressor.com/what-size-of-compressor-pump-do-i-need/
https://fix-my-compressor.com/how-to-buy-an-air-compressor/
In my apartment the closest 20amp circuit is upstairs.
I moved things around and seem to have plugged everything in at the right place to make it work. I let air out and it cycled correctly 3 times. I guess if it keeps happening I’ll run an extension upstairs. Maybe ask maintenance to replace the breaker for the hell of it.
Thanks for your help. I’ll keep you updated.
If you use an extension cord, make sure it’s heavy duty. A 14/2 won’t cut it. Good luck.
What do you think of my dual tank modification?
I wanted to join the 26 gallon tank of the new Kobalt with the 25 gallon tank of my old Craftsman. Only problem is the Kobalt max psi is 150, and the Craftsman 125.
So I ran a hose from the Kobalt tank, and reversed the regulator on the Craftsman. So now I can regulate the pressure going in at 125 psi. And I did confirm that pressure does reverse back through the regulator to feed air back to the Kobalt.
I guess this means the second tank will only help when the main tank is below 125 psi, but still above the 120 psi kick in pressure.
Seems to be working great so far.
Be careful as regulators are not normally meant to operate in reverse. I’d make sure I have a PRV on the Craftsman tank with a cracking pressure of 135 PSI or so.
Starting to think I’m not accomplishing anything because the compressor kicks in before any pressure drop in the Craftsman tank. That tells me the extra volume is useless unless I shut the motor off and use the extra time before pressure is too low to run a tool.
Or, knock the cut out pressure on the Kobalt down to 125 PSI too.
Where do you adjust? And will it change both on and off pressure?
If you pull the cover off the pressure switch, there should / may be instructions on how to adjust the switch. Some switches have two adjustment nuts for high and low, others have one that adjust the range of both cut in and cut out at the same time. I have no idea which you have. It will require careful experimentation on your part.
I have a Kobalt 60 gallon, model #vt636200aj(agm10) that has plenty of pressure for the first 10 seconds, then drops to very low pressure. What am I needing to replace here? Thanks
Sounds like the regulator may be suspect, but then, it could be something else in the air supply chain. Have a look at this page for things to check: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressed-air-will-not-come-out-of-the-air-hose/
Willr, thanks for the quick response. Changed out my regulator and just like that constant pressure. Thanks again. Sammy
You are most welcome. Air compressors are fun and useful, when they work properly. Cheers.
I have an older Kobalt 10 gal 1.5 HP “KLA1581009”. It gets used on and off. A few years ago the pc board crapped out. I still use it though. I bought a mini regulator for it, but have not installed it.
Is it worth trying to get a newer pump/regulator assembly to replace the digital regulator? Is that even possible seeing that my ac is so much older.
Closest looking regulator/manifold/pump assembly is the LK20175 version.
If you can find a used one they sell for about $100 or so. A new one comparable sized is under $200.00.
Worthwhile fixing? Depends on how handy you are and if saving $100+ is worth your while. You can build a custom regulator manifold to replace the entire old one – including the electronic regulator – from standard brass fittings available at a decent plumbing shop, and a replacement manual regulator is around $15.00 or so.
Whether you want the aggravation or not is up to you and your available time and skills.
Campell Hausfield is no better (than Kobalt) from Lowes. Have a leak at the regulator and most other compressors, it would be a simple fix. The CH has an entire assembly to replace and of course it is no longer available. I will look at real name brand next time which I thought I was doing with the CH.
I need the regulator housing and knob for my Kobalt 20 gal model 0332041. The housing that the knob screws on to is stripped and won’t allow it to regulate when screwing it either way. Attached is a picture. I tried tapping the thread but it’s already too far gone. I can do a jerry rig fix if I have to but would rather fix it properly. Thank you.
What a disaster I have the same problem!!
I have the exact same problem and can’t find a replacement knob or regulator. What a nuisance. Makes me confident that I should not buy house brands.
I have a Kobalt mode:LK20175/53294. This is a good compressor other than how LOUD it is. This thing will drive you out of the garage! Does Kobalt make a silencer or after market muffler for this beast?
No to my knowledge. Being too loud is one of the hallmarks of a lower end compressor, unfortunately. Not seeing your garage, I can’t tell if you’ve enough space to put a wall around it, complete with top. If you do, make sure the side away from you has plenty of holes to allow good air ingress, and heat to escape.
I have an 8-gallon, 1.8 hp, 150 max psi kobalt compressor that is just over 5-years old. It gets light to moderate use. Recently, when filling on start the motor runs normally, but when it fills to 75 psi, it stalls and makes a buzzing sound. I am thinking that it is the run capacitor is going bad? What is the problem?
Hi Rick. If there is no other change in the power supply to the compressor, yes, a run capacitor would be a thing to check. There’s a page on how to do that on this site.
I just realized that this may be an issue that I caused. Repeatedly, starting this compressor say, with 40 or 50 psi in the tank. What component(s) could be damaged from this? Having the same symptoms that I described earlier.
An air compressor runs normally by filling the tank to a cut out pressure setting, the tank pressure drops through air use, the tank pressure drops to the cut-in pressure setting, the compressor starts and fills the tank to cut out, and the cycle repeats. By starting the compressor with 40 or 50 PSI in the tank would not, in my opinion, negatively affect the compressor, as doing so effectively emulates the normal operating start and stop.
Your symptoms sound like a power issue, and I think checking the cap (s) if there are two is a good start to diagnosing why the compressor is acting this way.
My capacitors tested out as good. I had been running this compressor in the garage when it was not filling to the max pressure. I took it in the house and ran it and it does fill to the 150 psi max. It must have something to do with the power drain thru the lines or circuit in the garage. Problem seems solved. I do not need to fill it to the max in the garage often.
What would cause my reset button to keep tripping before air builds up??? Bought compressor during black friday 2019 so it fairly new its a 60 gallon kobalt 2 stage compressor
Pretty much already covered on the troubleshooting pages, right here, Superman. Please have a look, check what’s written about, and add a comment with what you found if you still need help. Thanks.
Bought a kobalt 26 gal quiet run compressor in April of 2018. On Dec 31,2019, I went into the garage and found it running continuously. Heard air blowing and thought a line split. Found that a cheap brass fitting had blown the top off. It fits on a 4 way fitting that has the line from cylinders on the left ( as you look at front), the bleed off copper tube on the front, and the line to the tank on the bottom. The cheap peice is located on the right side of the fitting. All you see is the golden wrench acceptable cap.
This cap has a small, thin copper tube that fits into the 4 way fitting. It has fine, external threads. Inside the tube is a spring and small plastic plug that blocks the bleed off tube when the motor is off.
Of course, theres no picture or part # for this cheap copper piece. I jjust spent 35 minutes on the phone with Lowes warranty center. All they could do is send an email to the manufacturer and explain my problem and ask them to get ahold of me. I can’t return it till I hear from the manufacturer. They have the call on if it’ll be eligible for replacement under warranty. I’m told they’ll call or email me in 2-3days but with it being Thursday, it could be next Wednesday before I hear from them.
Next time I’ll go back to Sanborn like my last one. It lasted over 25 years.
A picture sure would have helped. Might be the PRV, might be a cold start valve. I can’t tell from the description. Good luck with getting an answer from Lowes.
It goes in the hole on the elbow type connector.
Thanks for the photo, Fred. OK, looking at the photo you sent, it appears as all is OK. Is the issue with the fitting on the copper tube, in what appears to be a black line running out to the left behind the copper tube, or is it the “device” that’s shown on the right of the fitting, looking a bit like a chrome dome?
Found all the parts that blew out of the big opening of the brass fitting. The threaded fitting is a fine threaded fitting. The cap(head) of the fitting blew apart from the threaded part.
Now I see it. Thanks Fred. If you use your browser and search for “compressor tank check valve” you’ll find many. Pick any one that has the same port and thread sizes, and replace yours. It’s a fairly standard part. Don’t know why it blew apart on you, but replacing it will be pretty easy.
Thank you. I’ll check it out.
Same thing just happened to my 26 gallon quiet tech. I have found all types of check valves. None so far in the same configuration. Did you find a replacement?
Interesting, mine did the same thing – blew the end cap off of the check valve. For now I took the cap, valve and spring off of the new one like the one pictured below and inserted in the old body. The closest match was a 90* right valve which I will retrofit – Hopefully.
Yeah… if you can buy something on line for $12.00 or so, the cost to manufacture that item is likely in the $1.00 range, and there’s not a lot of money in there for quality construction. Good luck.
Mike, when I googles “replacement tank check valve” the first one that popped up was from a Powermate compressor, however, as far as I can see, would work properly for your compressor too. The issue is the port sizes, really, as they all work pretty much alike. Here’s a photo:
Of course, you may need to monkey with adapters and such to get it to fit your footprint, but I expect that’s doable.
Yes perhaps that side port is the issue. Mine has a “coned” end to accept a flared fitting and the pictured one is not that type
Yeah, some fitting adapters will be necessary, then.
I have a Kobalt 30 gallon, model #LLA1683066, and I need the oil level sight glass. The one on there now is cracked and leaks oil. I’ve looked the part number up and it always says the item is obsolete. Any suggestions?
Measure the O.D. of the thread, look up “replacement oils sight glass for compressor” and use a non-OEM version, of which there are many.
Thanks, willyr
Does kobalt warranty their 3 gallon compressor ?
If it needs a part not listed in the manual, the manufacturer has the call on the warranty. You have to wait for them to talk to you about it.
They warranty all compressors purchased new. The warranty period varies depending on the model, and where the item is purchased. Typically the paperwork that comes with the compressor when it’s purchased covers the warranty details.
Need a 60 gal replacement tank for kobalt k7060hfv….exact replacement would be great,having trouble finding one,
Quite likely your compressor was made by:
I 90 Enterprises
8 South Fifth St.
Odessa, WA 99159
USA
Phone: 509-988-0380
Fax: 509-982-0006
i90enter@gmail.com
Try contacting them. Or, acquire any 60-80 gallon vertical, and with minimal mods, you can use it.
I just want to unload! 😉
Hi, love your site I have learned a ton about compressors trying to solve my problem below. Thanks for all your time and effort!
I have a circa 2008 Kobalt 26 gallon, 1.5 hp single stage compressor that my dad gifted me. In the several months I have had it, if I am using it for any high-volume application it will not restart on low tank pressure, rather it makes an angry buzzing/humming noise. Using your web site and diving into the compressor, I have figured out that the cylinder is taking a long time (3-10 minutes or more) to unload. I know this is the case because I cannot manually turn the flywheel when it is loaded but I can when it is unloaded. If I crack a fitting on the tubing between the pump and the tank the cylinder immediately unloads.
I replaced the tank check valve, which eliminated the super long unload times, but it still won’t unload for at least 3 minutes. Also, I cannot detect that it is unloading: there is no hissing, groaning, whooshing or popping. Sometimes the piston will get incrementally easier to move as time goes on, sometimes I can’t move it at all and then 30 seconds later it’s easy to move.
I can find no unloading mechanism. There is no airline into the pressure switch. There is no airline coming off the compressor-to-tank run. There is no pin hole in the NPT-to-tubing brass adapter at the head. I cannot find any “bolt head” with a hole in it like Brandon found in his December 6 comment. I took apart the pump and checked the head, the valve plate, and cylinder for some pin hole or way to unload and found nothing. I checked and cleaned the valves and their mating surfaces, which were a little grimy but appeared to be sealing.
I cannot figure out how the manufacturer intended this to unload! If I could, I would try to return that to its original state. Any ideas?
Otherwise I am ready to create my own pin hole unloader. Would it be unwise to drill into the cylinder wall at the bottom of the piston’s stroke? Advantage would be that the hole would be outside the high-compression zone, meaning no compressed air is being bled off. Disadvantage is that the hole might be tough on the piston ring, which looks like some kind of impregnated fabric, as it goes past the hole twice per stroke. Other options would be to drill into the valve plate on the inlet side or make a groove in an inlet valve seat. I would appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks again for taking the time to respond to us novices.
That pressure switch looks like it should have an unloader tube entering the bottom plugged port. If that’s how it came from the factory, I cannot second guess their design.
I wouldn’t drill into the cylinder if this were my compressor. Is there a bolt of any sort on top of the piston that looks like it may have had a hole in it?
I can’t tell from your photo, but the larger black line terminating into the tank below the pump line fitting, where does the other end of that line connect, please?
Also, that tank check valve has nothing to do with the unload function. It’s purpose is to keep air in the tank, not let it up and out a vent. That’s why a hole in bolt in the head of the piston will bleed off only the air over the piston when the compressor stops, and not bleed all of the air out of the tank.
I wish there was an unloader in the pressure switch, alas…
I see no features on the piston other than the relief to clear the screw that holds the inlet valves (reeds?).
The black line in my original picture runs from the tank to a brass elbow adapter on the manifold.
I replaced the check valve to make sure that no pressure was leaking back from the tank and overwhelming the unloading feature. I think it’s safe to say that is not happening.
Here are more pictures of the pump components, I am still not seeing any holes in the valve plate or head, nor are there any fasteners that penetrate either the head or the valve plate.
Again, I cannot figure out how the manufacturer intended that this cylinder would unload, unless it is through poor part fit and poor manufacturing tolerances.
And again, thanks for your time!
You are welcome, and why not put a traditional unloader on the compressor? You add a tank check valve with unloader port, a pressure switch with an integral or attached unloader, and connect the two.
That’s what I’ll do, thanks!
I’ve had the Kobalt 8 gallon compressor for probably 5 years or so with it only seeing occasional use.
About a year ago, I started noticing that when it’s filling and reaching full tank pressure, I can hear and feel air coming out of a tiny pin hole in what looks like the head of a bolt. When this starts happening, it seems like the pump runs for a long time (up to even a couple of minutes despite having reached more or less full pressure).
At times, it seems that it fills and shuts of normally, perhaps due to heat causing something to finally close up like it should and not leak air.
I also notice that despite storing the compressor at basically full pressure (and no hose attached), when I go to use it days/weeks later, the tank pressure has typically leaked down considerably, to around 50-80 PSI.
I’ll admit I don’t know much about compressors or their terminology but the best I can describe is it’s mounted on the side near the top of the tank, From reading, it sounds like this is the check valve but I’m not sure. All of the check valve pictures I’ve seen don’t show something looking like a bolt with a pin hole in it.
Do my symptoms and description sound like a bad check valve? Is the pin hole bolt something that threads into the end of the check valve but not actually part of what comes with a replacement check valve perhaps?
To be honest, I absolutely loathe this exact compressor for commercial work. Installing gym floors, these $100 pieces of scrap only last a few days before this happens. My boss was too cheap and had me replace the check valve, same thing happened later that day. He then had me cap it and the compressor caught fire. Being 6 hours from home and him still wanting me to fix it, I went and bought a DeWalt D5514 out of pocket, and it’s been 4 months now with no problems. My boss on the other hand has gone through another dozen of these since then. Just a lesson about getting what you paid for.
Hi Brandon. Yes the symptoms sound very much like a tank check valve (located where the line from the pump head reaches the tank) has debris lodged in the seal inside and it’s preventing the check valve from sealing tightly.
The “bolt” with the small hole is likely the unloader / cold start valve on this compressor. That hole leaks all the time when the compressor is running, continues to leak after the compressor stops, until all of the air over the piston is vented. The “leak” should stop after this, but if air continues to bleed out, clean or replace the tank check valve.
Let us know if that was the issue, won’t you? Thanks.
Need to know where I can get a manifold blue KNOB for this compressor #0332041 purchased at Lowe’s.
Thanks
I am sorry Liviu, but there does not seem to be any parts supply for this manifold or regulator anywhere. You are not the first person to vent about this problem, and I expect you won’t be the last.
As far as I know the only option you’ve got is to remove the cover, and rebuild the manifold using brass or copper fittings from a good plumbing shop, and replacing the regulator with a a standard, general purpose, mini-regulator style.
Need to know where I can get a manifold for this compressor.
Thanks
Take the cover off and see what’s what underneath. Google “replacement compressor regulator manifold” and you’ll find many, one of which may fit. Or, you can make up your own using brass fittings from a hardware store, getting rid of the original cast manifold completely.
I have a Kobalt,2gal 125 psi 1/2hp,oil free #0120242A.I have used the compressor maybe five times to air up car tires and a motorcycle tire.thats it now it will not build air pressure. I have called 4 times now for tech support Ha,they said they called and some one hung up on them i wish i had the chance. Now i called again im told it will take 2 to 3 days for anyone to get back to, best of all is i dont have the receipt to show when i bought it, less than a year ago. If any one has a better number to call ,help, not rich to toss it out . Thanks for letting me vent.
Update from Mark: “by the way there sending me a motor etc .should be fun”.
I have a up half air compressor model #3332643 26 gal. I was getting water thru the line and went to drain the tank. I did NOT unplug the comressor when I did this. During the drain the compressor started to come on due to the pressure drop but then suddenly stopped and threw the breaker. I turned the ompressor switch off and reset breaker. Turn switch and it acts like its going to start up but stops and throws the breaker every time
Brian, please visit: https://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/ and scroll down to the section about compressor starting and stopping section. Have a read of some of the things to check, and then add a comment with what you did, or didn’t find, if you would.
I need a compressor for this kobalt compressor model # 215921 . Can you offer any assistance with this?
Yes I am looking a compressor pump can you let me know the price of it please
Jimmie, I don’t sell compressor parts. I did provide a URL in the previous response, and copied it below, which is a company that seems to have them. You might want to follow that URL and contact that company, K?
aircompressorpartsonline.com
Forgive my misunderstanding, please. Are you looking for a compressor pump for this compressor, Jimmie? If so, the pump, less the flywheel, appears to be available on this site: aircompressorpartsonline.com . Good luck.
Need a wiring diagram for a kobalt 8 gal compressor.
Brent, I’ve uploaded an image of what I believe to be your air compressor. Is this the one you have?
If so, the wiring is pretty straightforward I think. Here’s how I would do it if this were my air compressor. Two wires come ion from the power cord as shown in the photo. One of those power wires goes first to the ON/OFF switch and then on to the pressure switch. That same wire connects then to one lead at the motor. The other wire comes from the power cord directly to the other motor lead.
In this way the compressor would not come on unless the power switch were switched on and the pressure switch was tripped by low tank pressure to allow power to flow to the motor and start the compressor.
Of course, I’m not an electrician, so someone who is might have other views. I invite them to comment.
I need a wiring diagram for the pressure switch on the same compressor, Kobalt 8 gallon 150 psi air compressor. There’s a lose yellow wire from the motor and don’t know what it goes to. Also the pressure switch is disconnected. Received it back from someone who used it and took it apart without permission and won’t respond. Help please.
Lindsay, please add a comment with some photos of the compressor, pressure switch you have (open) and the wires coming from the motor, in particular the yellow one. Thanks.
I have Kobalt Model# 3332643.
Air is leaking from around my air pressure regulator knob.
I have had it since about December… I mostly use it to fill tires / to dust my PC.
Planned on eventually getting some air tools.. but haven’t yet.
I usually have the tool pressure at about 90 psi.
Any advice on where I can get get parts to rebuild that valve / dial section of the regulator?
I attached some photos… please let me know.
Thanks.
Odd that air would leak where you have indicated. You have put a wrench on the flats and tried to tighten down the innards, have you? Try that if you haven’t.
In the drive to make compressors cheaper off-shore manufacturers use cast manifolds for the discharge components, and few companies sell them. Lowes certainly doesn’t, and parts for the low cost regulators are almost impossible to find too.
If tightening the innards doesn’t resolve the issue, it may be that the diaphragm in the regulator may be cracked. If you can get the regulator apart, check the diaphragm to see, and if so then, Google Kobalt compressor regulator parts you may find a diaphragm from another model that will fit.
The good news is if you’ve only had it a year, this model appears to have a 3 year warranty, so take it, the manual, and your receipt back to Lowes and ask for a new one.
I have the same compressor as the OP with the same problem. Lowes would not take it back. Only within the first 30 days or with the extended warranty will they allow a return. I had to call the Kobalt warranty number. Kobalt does not make the compressor so they had to contact the manufacturer. The manufacturer called me back five days later and said the part was out of stock and would not be in until sometime in December. They would then send me a new regulator. Lowes does not own Kobalt although only Lowes sells Kobalt. Kobalt is a separate company.
Thanks for the update, Jim.
It was certainly my understanding that Kobalt is a brand owned by Lowes, and they have multiple products made for them under that brand. Wikipedia seems to agree. “Kobalt (tools) Lowe’s Companies, Inc. Kobalt is a line of hand and mechanics’ tools, power tools, and tool storage products owned by the American home improvement chain Lowe’s. It is the house brand for both Lowe’s in North America and their joint venture with the now defunct Masters Home Improvement in Australia.”
I haven’t tried it yet, but certainly will. I just figured out where it was leaking last night. Hopefully we’ve kept the receipt.
Thanks for your quick reply.
You are most welcome. Let us know how it turns out, won’t you?
Well…
I don’t have a tool that can get in to the gap between the knob and the ring to tighten it.
It still works for now. It just has an audible leak.
I am just going to keep using it until it fails… Then probably build my own regulator with parts that are easily replaceable. Rather than deal with the warranty process and possibly end up with the same issue.
Hi, I have an Kobalt 20 gal oil free compressor model #0332041…very lightly used but a couple of weeks ago when I went to start it up, it ran and pumped up pressure…when the pressure was used and or bled off the compressor would not come back on and build any more pressure. I did not have it plugged in with an extension cord and I had the pressure set to 75 or 80 pounds…..I am not sure where to start looking as I said this was lightly used and is possibly 3 – 4 old.
any guidance would be appreciated.
thank you
Get the cover off, and see where the wire from the ON/OFF switch goes. If it goes to a pressure switch that has an unloader valve, then that unloader valve may not be functioning. Other than that, have a look at this page, read the pages that apply, and then add a comment with what you found when you checked, please.
Hi i have older 26 gl with 1 and 1/2 hp my problem is that when it gets uo to 65 70 lb the moder slows down and the reset button pops out. Is this worth fixing? It was free
Free is a good price. The troubleshooting page on this site with links to issues about why compressors bog down will provide lots of info. I believe the button pops as the compressor motor is overheating. There could be a number of reasons, most covered on the pages already on this site. Have a look.
As to whether it’s worth fixing, depends on how much you want to spend, whether you use the compressor a lot so you’ll miss it if you don’t have one, and of course, what is actually wrong with it.
I have kobolt model number 0320541 and the first time using it the bolt in the compression cylinder sheared off were can i get another bolt
Howdy. I believe this compressor was first introduced by Lowes in 2014 or thereabouts. Wondering how you have a compressor of this vintage that’s only been fired up once? Anyway, Lowes does not have parts as you already know. Best I can suggest is if you can get one of the bolts then visit an industrial hardware outfit and ask them to identify the thread and supply another like it, though maybe take it up a notch in terms of bolt strength. Good luck.
I havea kobalt 20 gal 1.8 hp and the fan on the mortor broke can i get a replacement for it part #isj1950320168
I have a 20 gal 1.8 horsepower Kobalt compressor. The issue I’m having is while using the compressor without warning air starts rushing up around the regulator knob. I have taken the knob off and replaced the o’ring on the bottom of the knob assembly. This works for a while, but it does it again, and each time I replace the o’ring it fixes it for a while, but it blows another. I’m hoping somebody can give me an idea what I need to do to remedy this problem.
What pressure are you running the air tool at, and what pressure is in the tank?
I only run it at 75lb I never run it any higher than that for what I use it for.
If the tank pressure is higher than the 75 PSI you’ve got the regulator set for, and air is blowing up around the regulator, presumably from the regulator body and not a leak at the fittings or pipe, then I would surmise your regulator needs a new diaphragm.
I have a Kobalt 8 gal compressor (model # 0300841) that was leaking from the check valve, I ordered a new one but received the wrong part. While I was messing with that, I noticed the compressor didn’t shut off at 150 psi like it should so I replaced the pressure switch. Now I have a new pressure switch that still doesn’t seem to work properly and the old check valve that still leaks a small amount of air from the hole in the screw. I’m much more concerned with the over-pressurization and would like your thoughts on a cause for it not shutting off correctly. Thank you.
“Not shutting off correctly”? What’s happening? How high does the pressure get to?
I continues until the PRV goes off
OK, if you pull the wire off the pressure switch with the tank full of air, past the normal cut out by 10 PSI, and the compressor stops and when you connect the wire again the compressor starts even with a full charge of air in the tank, then it’s pretty much got to be a bum switch.
I have a Kobalt 8gal, 1.8Hp Running compressor oil less unit. I can fill the tank with air just fine but when I attach the hose to the unit it will knock and not fill when more air is needed. I have tired it plugged into the wall and also with an extension cord. I have also emptied the air out of the tank several times with the same results. I would appreciate any ideas or solutions. Thanks
So, empty tank and the compressor starts and runs, air in the tank, and the compressor will not start, is that right? Oh, and avoid the extension cord. They’ll cause a motor overheat unless the cord is of sufficient gauge for the distance.
What do you mean the “unit will knock”? Please clarify.
We have a 20 gallon, 1.8 hp, 150 max psi, 4.0CFM@90psi. We need to replace the air pressure regulator knob and the internal parts of the air pressure regulator. Where can I fin d these parts? Thank you
Did you happen to find a fix? I’m in need of the same thing
Please remove the plastic cover from the whole assembly, and then add a photo showing the complete piping of the array. It may be that this is a proprietary manifold, and you may not be able to replace just the regulator, but until we can see what’s under the cover, we cannot be sure.
I have a 20 gallon standing Kobalt air compressor, it vwill run for about three to four minutes getting to about 60 lbs of pressure overheats and quits running. It is supposed to pump up to 150 lbs but does not make it. Ran fine last summer but now has started this.
I have the same problem with a Kobalt 20 gal compressor. There is a thermal cut-off switch that is attached to the coils of the motor, as seen from the back. It is about 3/4″ long and wrapped in clear shrink tube. The problem is that this device is crimped on and the crimp is a poor job, if you look at the connections they are black from burning and overheating. The problem is that there is not much wire there to replace it. I have not found a replacement. It would be dangerous to bypass it.
Tom, any change in the power supply? Not using an extension cord? If no to both, please read the pages found here for some tips: https://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/
How do inget power cord out of black box
Joseph, what black box are you referring to? Is it the black box on the compressor that the power cord runs to? If so, unplug the power cord, and look at the top of or around the bottom of that box for screws that are holding the cover on. Remove them and the cover, and you’ll see where the power cord wires are attached. Does that help?
Will never purchase Kobalt air compressor again…….There is no repair available the 20 gallon and higher …..Stay with Husky for sure , made by Campbell Hausfeld…From Home Depot
I have a 20 gallon, 1.5 HP, oil free Kobalt air compressor (model # 233885). When I turn it on, it runs but I begin to smell something burning within seconds. So, I shut it down. Any suggestions?
Boy, hard to be specific without knowing what’s heating up, Tom. This is recent, and ran before with no issue? I don’t believe this one has oil-added by user, so I’m guessing its not out of oil. Lot of hard long use? Any change in the power supply… extension cord being used, power bar, like that?
Can you provide any more details?
It has always been light duty use and has always been in my garage. It has basically been used to inflate tires. I have probably had it for 15+ years though.
It is plugged directly into the outlet with no extension cords. Maybe I can look closer to see if I can pinpoint the burning smell later this week. I apologize for the lack of details in my first post. Thanks for the help!
I have a Kobalt 8 gal compressor. When I turn it on and pressure starts building, I hear the unloader valve start venting to the atmosphere. When it finally fills and cuts off the valve still vents until the compressor tries to start to refill but it cannot restart (just hums and blows the circut) Ive read the unloader valve page on this site and am still unsure if its the unloader valve or something else..
Mine is doing the same thing!!! Air bleeds out through the bolt with the pin hole in the center. Took it out, cleaned it and reinstalled with thread tape and it still leaks! Any fixes?!?
Please check and make sure the tank check valve is not leaking, will you? Let us know please.
Pulled the tank check valve and the spring that holds the diaphragm in place is in pieces. Currently looking for a new valve but it’s hard to know what to get as I don’t know NTP pipe measurements! I ordered one hopefully it’s the right one!
Here are some pics. Parts number is wcfadx.02.03
Grant, did you ever find a valve that fits? I’ve purchased 3 different valves so far that have all been wrong. It’s almost as if the top threads are completely proprietary and just slightly off from any normal size. I’m about ready to throw the whole thing in the trash.
This what ended up working. Haven’t had any trouble since. And I repaired the old one by just replacing the spring inside.
Sadly, I’m simply unable to find a check valve that fits my Kobalt 8gal. I’ve been through 4 different valves.
The first two, I could have been more diligent of checking the measurements before ordering. The problem is the inlet tube fitting. I ordered the same check valve from Amazon as shown above, I tried a Milton I found at Northern Tool, both being 1/2″ comp fitting inlet….both just slightly too large for the tube’s fitting.
The check valve that came in mine, which appears identical to the one in yours, measures 0.64″. The ones I got that are 1/2″ comp size measure 0.68″. Four hundredths isn’t a lot but it’s definitely enough to prevent this thing from threading up.
I’m mystified how you got the Amazon one to fit. Luckily my original spring is still in one piece. I did have to buy a snap ring to put it back together. I cleaned it up with an ultrasonic cleaner but certain it’s still not sealing as it should.
At this point, it looks like I’m just going to be stuck with it functioning in a less than optimal fashion. I give up trying to find a check valve. Mine must be something non-standard.
I would try to thread that one up. I never got my mic out to check the new one but it threaded right in. It’s worth a shot if you still have it. The other route you could take is replace the inlet line and use a fitting for the valve you bought. I did that another compressor of mine.
I did actually try to thread it up and it simply doesn’t fit. I thought about replacing the whole line but then I’ve also gotta replace the elbow for the line entering the pump (because the thread size is the same on both ends of the line which again, seem to be non-standard) and I’d have to buy a tube bending tool which I don’t have to do it all right. I’ll buy a new 8gal Husky compressor for $100 before taking on that level of investment/time farting around with this one. If this were a more expensive compressor, I’d certainly put more into it. But’s a cheap occasional home use tool that’s now at least 5 years old or so. Thanks for your help and suggestions though!
Gotcha I failed to notice your compressor was a husky. Mine is Kobalt Lowe’s special so that is probably the difference.
I wonder if you have considered that one may be a metric fitting and the others NPT? Compressors manufactured offshore often have metric dimensioned parts.
If you check the specs for a metric fitting and an NPT fitting of the same size, they are very close, but not identical.
I’ve considered that as well as British pipe thread. Amazon doesn’t seem to have anything in either and I’m not willing to risk being stuck with something I can’t return. I’m done wasting time and energy trying to chase down what should be a simple standard part for this PoS. I’ll not own another Kobalt product after this.
Brian, if air is leaking from the unloader valve after the compressor stops, where is it coming from? The compressor tank. Dump all the air, remove, clean and reinstall or replace the tank check valve, and then post another comment about the symptoms the compressor is showing after you have done that, if any. See the pages on compressor tank check valve for more info on that part if you would.
I have a Kobalt 5 gal air compressor. Recently it started overheating. I need to unplug it several times and wait before it will fill the reserve tank. Then when full and I’m using a tool it will kick back on, fill a little, then I repeat the process. Where should I look first?
Tony, are you using an extension cord to power the compressor? What air tool are you using, and any idea what CFM that tool requires to run properly? What is the motor HP of your Kobalt please?
I need help. My husband is trying to figure out if he can order a replacement part for this air compressor. It’s model # 0300841. He’s looking for a pressure/tool regulator. Do you know if he can order one?
Given that Lowes is still selling this model, it’s a logical question to ask the store where it was acquired. Is the unit still under warranty? Get them to replace the regulator or the whole compressor. If not, pull the plastic cover off the assembly and add a photo as a comment here of the existing regulator and we’ll see if we can help you find a new one.
He needs the silver piece in the picture
Thanks for the photo. By the “silver piece” do you mean the “silver” metal tee into which the air line is connected at the top, the PRV on the left, the discharge coupler on the right and nothing that I can see at the bottom? Is this where the regulator goes? Is it the “silver” piece you want or the regulator that would be attached at the bottom of the tee?
He needs both pieces
Hi Kim. I’ve uploaded a photo of what I believe your compressor looks like with the cover on. Is it correct?
If it is, then I can see where the image matches with the manifold photo you uploaded… mostly. Am I correct in understanding that the regulator fits in the “silver” piece at the bottom of your image, and the regulator gauge is not attached to the regulator but added to the cover, and plumbed from the regulator, or is the regulator gauge still attached to the regulator, but sticks up out of the hole in the cover you have removed?
The regulator is attached to the gauges via the silver manifold. I need the manifold also.
Jeff, I am sorry, but I cannot find your original comment to determine what it is you are referring to. Can you provide the date of the original comment to which you are responding, and is it in the Kobalt Air Compressors thread? Thanks.
I have a kolbalt model number 153-0142 and the pressure regulator leaks air. After I took it apart and j b welded the leak , another one popped up. It continues to leak and can I get a new regulator ? I can’t seem to find the the right part.
Please reply with a couple of photos of your compressor and a closeup of the regulator. I cannot find this model anywhere, and don’t know how to offer advice since I cannot see the area where the problem is occurring.
I have an air compressor model # 0300841. The manifold broke where I hook up an air hose to. I can’t find a part # for it.
No part available.. then you’ll have to cannibalize a broken one, or make your own. See if there are any on the market that might be close to what you need. If not, get the fittings to make your own. They are available, and may actually save money over buying a new one, if you could find it.
I need a manifold part # E101627…..all sites say discontinued. Is there a replacement part #?
No longer available for sure, Glenn. If you Google “build a compressor regulator manifold” you’ll find a bunch for sale on ebay. If none of those can be modified to suit, you may have to make your own. That’s not as difficult as it may sound though the results may not look particularly cool, they will work. Visit a good plumbing store and you’ll find lots of brass fittings that you can assemble into any shape to suit the compressor.
Where do I get this part!!
It’s an older machine cannot find book or anywhere on machine with model number it is manifold with guages a few if helps if not I keep looking thanks!!
Allen, thanks for the photos, though I couldn’t see on any of them the actual location of where the original assembly was located? In the first photo, the part that extends towards the viewer is placed where on the compressor, please?
If you Google “kobalt compressor manifolds” and then just “compressor manifolds” you will find many. If any can be adapted to fit into your Kobalt, all you need to be sure about is that the specifications are the same. By that I mean the various pressure ranges and voltages for the pressure switch etc. The compressor will work find regardless of what the new manifold looks like or how you cobbled it in, as long as it functions in a similar fashion to the original.
On the same compressor as in this picture the kobalt 8 gal i need to add a manifold i found one on Amazon but it also comes with a on and off switch. Do i need to wire the aftermarket switch in or can i use the original one. Also does anybody know if the pressure on of switch is on tbe unit or on tbe regulator manifold?
If your compressor is the Kobalt 0300841 too, then the upper tank pressure will be 150 PSI. From the pictures I have found, I suspect the pressure switch is what I call a “mini-switch” and installs right into the tank. You’ll have to pull the cover to check. I doubt it will be part of the manifold.
If the new manifold comes with a switch, disable and remove the old one, and use the new one.
Sounds good thank you. One more Q the new switch looks to have a inlet for a pressure tube, do i just disregard that since the “mini switch” is already inline in the tank. i assume that will stop the motor once its at max psi right? Thanks again
Miguel, remove the covers and make sure that the pressure switch is installed in the tank first. If it is, then do not use the new switch. Sorry, I thought you meant ON/OFF switch in your earlier post, not the pressure switch.
What you want to do now is remove the covers and take a photo of all sides of the compressor without the covers, and add these in a new comment, along with a picture of your new switch.
the model # for that 8 gallon horizontal compressor is 0300841 I also am looking for the manifold and so far have had no luck.
Yeah, I see that. Even their catalogue parts list doesn’t show the manifold as a part. So, what’s with your manifold? What’s needed to fix it?
So, what I think I’m seeing is a manifold from the compressor, on which is the two gauges and the regulator, yes? What compressor model is it, please? Without that information it’s pretty difficult to help.
I have a 1.8 hp 8gal kobalt. The check value started leaking constantly with every pressure up. Is there a way to fix the problem or do I have to replace the part?
Jim, my answer will depend on what you mean by the check valve. How do you know the check valve is leaking? It’s in a fitting stuck in a tank, is it not? Please advise what you mean by a check valve, and even, maybe, upload a photo? While that is difficult in the thread, you can start a new post on the same page and upload a bunch of photos there. I’ll have a look and get back to you.
Where do you find parts..I have a 8 gallon and the hose from the tank to the regulators just crumbled and where you plug air line in just crumbled just by tightening it up wth
Hi Scott. Sure want to help but I’m a bit confused by your questions. When you say the “hose from the tank to the regulator” do you mean the cast pipe? Just a different word for what you mean, I guess, but until I know that, I’m not quite sure what part you are talking about. And where you plug the air line into, that’s the coupler on the same pipe, yes?
Any change you could upload a closeup photo or two to show us all what you are talking about?
I have a 1.8 HP 20 gal Kobalt A/C Model 0332041 that I just bought recently without giving much thought to where I would put it in my garage shop. It is a replacement for an old horizontal compressor that I had below my workbench. I didn’t do due diligence and measure where I would place the new compressor. The vertical Kobalt won’t fit below the workbench and i don’t really have anywhere else to put it. My question is: Can I run this compressor in the horizontal position or am I going to have to get rid of it and get another horizontal model?
(You could) dig a hole under your work table to fit the compressor……make sure plenty of airflow (open space) around the compressor.
good luck
I would take Kahn’s advice about digging a hole. I have the exact same compressor and can’t find a replacement part for it. So when you dig the hole, make it deep enough to cover it, concrete over it and then go get a horizontal tank compressor, any brand except Kobalt.
If this were my compressor, I wouldn’t try to run it on it’s side. Even though it’s user-added lube oil free, that doesn’t mean there is no lube inside. Also, if on it’s side, the tank drain will be in the wrong place. Sorry, but I don’t advise running it horizontally.
I have a Kobalt Direct Drive Model 103798. When turning it on all you hear and get is a loud fast clicking noise. Was told it was the regulator. I changed that but no change. The electronic circuit board seems to work fine, all that is displayed is an upside down “U” on the display and the normal pictures. Thoughts?
I’m not seeing too many air compressors (actually cannot find any) any more with digital regulators and controls. Reason being, in my opinion, they are prone to failure and very expensive to replace if you can find parts. This page may help: http://fix-my-compressor.com/clicking-air-compressor/ .
This one may too. Good luck.
I have a Kobalt 0332041, 3 yrs old, the tool pressure adjustment blew apart. I found the top of the adjustment knob and a spring on the garage floor, but nothing else.
Personally, I have never heard of a regulator blowing apart, (it would seem that this could be an extreme hazard, with the pressure flinging parts about at a pretty good velocity.)
So what is a replacement part for this?
Is there a place to send the bad part as I am curious to find out what could cause this.
On 2nd look, it appears the spring was too much pressure on the knob. The knob split from its threaded ring.
So I will need a knob, and any parts other than the spring, such as a needle plunger.
Any ideas where I can look this up?
RFM, that part should be available at Lowes where this brand of compressor is sold. Failing that, Google air compressor regulators and you’ll find many. Pick the one that is the same as the one you removed. You will not likely find parts for it, though the whole regulator is priced in the $15-$20 range typically.
Odd that a regulator blew apart, as the OEM regulator pressure rating is typically well above the maximum pressure the compressor can generate before the PRV opens to vent overpressure. If you Google Kobalt compressors it brings you to the Lowes website, since this is Lowe’s house brand. Visit your local Lowes with the broken regulator, and ask them for guidance. Good luck with that!
Good luck with finding that part for that model compressor. I’ve contacted Kobalt “Customer Service” twice without success trying to obtain the regulator for this model. I thought that having the part number for the item I wanted would make life easier, not the case. If you want to listen to unlimited elevator music, contact Kobalt Customer Service at 1-888-356-2258. When someone eventually answers the phone, speaking broken English, request part number WCFATY.04.05, then be prepared for the runaround. By the way, I contacted Lowe’s Repair Service about this, they don’t repair compressors.
Hi my name is Tony and I have a portable 8 gallon 1.8 horsepower 150 Max Pressure Cobalt air tank my problem is lightning struck the power pole outside my house and then when we tried to turn on air pump it wouldn’t come on when I unplugged it I noticed that the grounding pin for the plug was burnt and had a hole in it now the compressor won’t run is it worth trying to fix is there a fix or is it just shot and I need to dump it
Well, a plug is cheap. Change the plug, and then use a multi-meter to follow the power to the compressor. With the tank empty, power should be crossing the pressure switch and flowing to the motor. If it’s not, where does the power stop?
I bought a 20 gallon kobalt compressor at lowes. I needed an upgrade as I wanted to do spray painting. I have not done any painting yet just finish nailing in my shop. I have had this compressor about 18 months then it started cutting of at 70-80 lbs. it is rated for 150 psi. long story short. the thermal fuse inline was failing. I called the help line and they told me there was no such part replacement. My owners manual does not list hardly any electrical parts so I had no p/n. plus a wait time of 20 minutes to talk with s rep. I spent the next 2 hours searching your website but, to no availe. I’m very disappointed with Kobalt at this point as I have most always purchased Kobalt for my tool needs thru the years. Now, I will have to go outside of your company to find the part I need because of your insufficiant owners manuel and parts replacement availability.
Calvin, I am happy to approve your post, however, must inform you that my website is not Kobalt, nor do I have any official affiliation with them. If you wish to critique Kobalt at the source, you will want to contact Lowes head office, as Kobalt is their house brand air compressor… among many other items. Good luck.
I have a Kobalt 60 gallon compressor. It had been wired up and working fine for a couple of years. Then I moved. When I reworded it in the new shop it only runs for a while then the reset button on the motor trips. What can be causing this?
The reset trips because the motor is getting too hot. That could be because the motor or a motor capacitor has failed, or it could be simply that you aren’t feeding the compressor enough power to ensure the motor runs optimally. What HP, what breaker amperage for the compressor circuit, what length of wire run… please provide details about how you are getting power to the compressor. If it’s a 120 VAC, and you are not plugging it right into a wall socket, that could even be the issue.
3.7 HP. 208-240 volt. I have it hooked to a 30 amp breaker. It’s about a 4′ run. Same exact setup from when I moved from the old shop. I brought it with me and tied into the new service panel.
OK then, it’s not the power supply from the panel, Melvin. I still believe it to be because the motor is getting too hot and to me the next thing on the check list is the start capacitor. Please check yours, there’s a page about how on this site. That it may have failed when you moved the compressor may only be coincidence.
Yes I read that about the capacitor. I’ll let you know the outcome. Thanks.
I have a kobalt 8 gallon electric air compressor and after the tank filled up with air then as i was using it and the pressure went down the compressor kept sounding like the motor was gonna die and i maybe have only used this compressor around 5 times. Why would it sound like it’s gonna die on me while trying to fill back up with air?
Chad, please have a look at: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-wont-re-start-when-air-is-used/
Have kobolt 8 gallon air compressor air leaks out of check valve like it should but does not stop. When it’s starts to recycle new air motor does not kick in or sounds like it wants to try but goes out. The wrong check valve was sent to me so will send back. Just thought I’d get your thoughts . Thanks
I looked at some pictures of what I believe to be your compressor, but could not see where the check valve was. Is it one with a small hole in the top? You say air leaks out of this OK, and the leaking air should happen while the compressor is running and for a short time after the compressor stops. If there is air bleeding out this hole all the time and while the compressor is stopped, then the tank check valve is not working. If the air over the pump piston is bleeding off, and the compressor still won’t start properly, check the motor capacitor(s). Some have one, some have two. Don’t know which yours has.
I have a Kobalt 26 gal VLK 1582609. A friend of mine borrowed it and when he returned it…after midnight… the motor was missing, long story he tried to repair it and was not too successful. !,5 hp. Where do I find one. Thanks
Very odd that, considering that it is necessary to purchase both the motor and pump as a single assembly. Current cost is $200+. If I was in this situation, I’d be buying a new compressor, one comparable one is around $170, quite a bit less than just the pump and motor. Good luck!
I am searching for a check valve for a Kobalt air compressor(20 gal. 1.8hp) model #0332041.
Pull the existing tank check valve, if you have not already done so. With it nearby, Google compressor tank check valves, and acquire one that looks the same as yours. As long as the new one fits in the tank thread, and the pump head line connects, and the line to the unloader connects if this model has one, you’re good to go.
My compressor check valve failed, I did order new check value after install it run ok but when the air pump between 90psi to 120 psi the pump made a weird noise, but the old check valve back no noise but air was leaked agian. Does anyone know what happened. My compressor model # KLA 1883054. Thank you
A weird noise might mean a gasket in the pump is letting go. When you say it’s still leaking, where is it leaking from?
Depends on how handy you are. I cannot tell you if it’s easy or not for you. If you’ve taken things apart and put them back together successfully, and are creative in terms of making gaskets when you may not be able to find an OEM version, then away you go.
Thank you very much Willyr , so do I need to buy both head and cylinder gasket or which one . Thanks again
Hi Wiilyr, I need your recommendations. my compressor is about 12 years old and since it got a problem and I did ordered pressure switch, tank check valve, 90 degree elbow brass, felt filter, hose, now should I order gaskets kit to fix it ? I’m just afraid when I open it up some more stuff get problem like crankshaft,bearing,piston …ect. Should I buy new compressor or fix it? And between Kobalt 30 gal and Husky 30 which one is better?
Thank you very much
I cannot advise you as to whether it’s better to fix or replace. Your skills and your wallet will tell you that. As to which is better, Husky or Kobalt, thought I don’t know for sure, I wouldn’t be surprised to learn they were made by the same factory. Best air capacity, best warranty, best potential for spare parts, best price… all criteria I use when I need to buy a compressor.
I have a kobalt 1.5hp 20gallon air compressor model number 03342041 i am looking for a regulator part number WCFATY.04.05, do you have any suggestions?
Sorry, without a model number of the compressor, I cannot make any recommendation, as neither of the numbers you provided result in any information on line. Perhaps you might add a comment here with a photo of the regulator you want to acquire?
Thank you very much for all your help.
You are welcome. Good luck with the fix.
It is my experience that pulling a compressor pump apart can damage the pump gaskets. Therefore, I recommend that you replace them all, ensuring that when the pump has been reassembled, that the process did not damage an older pump gasket.
Hi Willyr, it’s still leaking when I put the old check valve back( air leaked under compressor switch,) the new check valve is good but have a weird noise. I ordered this check valve # CTRD 3812-PLUS.
Thank you
When you mean gasket which one( head gasket or gasket cylinder) and is that easy to do it? Thank you.
If air is leaking from the bottom of the pressure switch, that’s an indication that the tank check valve is leaking.
Yes, but I ordered the new check valve after installed the pump made a weird noise, but when I put the old tank check valve back pump run good no weird noise but air leaking. Thsnks
I suspect that the weird noise is being generated by a gasket leak, and that’s occurring because the new check valve works, and is generating some back pressure (normal amount) as a result. That no noise occurs with the old tank valve is likely because the flapper or ball check isn’t generating back pressure, as it doesn’t work. When the tank is full, the compressor stops, air leaks back up from the tank through the non-functioning tank check valve, and out the unloader.
I have a 60 gal Kobalt air compressor that is spitting a fine mist of oil out of the breather. I changed the oil and still appears to be happening.
If by the breather you mean the air intake, that suggests that the intake valve on this Kobalt compressor has failed. A pump repair kit with valve plate and gaskets is in order.
Help. I need some parts for a Kobalt 0200382 compressor…but can’t find a parts list ANYWHERE online. It’s a 3gal, 1.5 HP 150 Max PSI 2.6cfm 90psi one-tank compressor I bought at Lowe’s
Hey Ted i have the same compressor and i had the pressure regulator break on me too. I needed a fast fix so i headed over to the Home Depot and bought an inexpensive pressure regulator and a pressure gauge plus a fitting to get them all together. Works great, i was able to get my project done and for under $30 fix
I have a Kobalt 20 gal digital air compressor 1.3 Hp Model # 215908. It recently started making this loud squealing noise and shutting down when trying to re-fill the tank with pressure still in it. Like when I use so much air it comes on making a loud squeal and shuts right down. Turned it off, unplugged electricity, re-plugged it, turn it on, same thing. If I let all the air out of it it will come on and run, but after it pressures up and turns off, it will do the same thing trying to come back on. I have had it a few years but it has a fairly low amount of hours used.
My first thought was that a belt was misaligned, but this is, I believe, a direct drive compressor. Since I cannot see under the cover, and have not been able to find a photo showing me detail, I wonder about the unloader. Can you pull the cover to check does this model have a small hole in the fitting between the pump and the tank? If so, that hole is supposed to bleed air all the time and, when the compressor stops, allow the air trapped over the piston to escape allowing an easier restart. IF that hole has become blocked, that might be the source of the squeal, and if it cannot bleed air properly, may overload the motor on startup and shuts down the compressor. What’s under the cover, Chip?
Ok I took the cover off and it is belt driven. It is the belt making the squealing noise, it has a flat spot on the ribbed belt. As far as why it was shutting down I don’t know, maybe getting too hot? Anyway, I need a replacement belt.
If the belt was squealing, that would suggest that something was stopping the belt, while the pulley turned. Just a guess, but I think you’ll need more than a belt. I’d be looking at the cylinder / piston too just to see what’s what inside.
I agree, I haven’t taken it apart but I did spray wd-40 and it does seem to run smoother. I already ordered a new belt because the one on it does have the ribs wore down in one spot. If it is on that spot it will not turn the piston. The air intake tube to the piston was fallen off and there is no air filter, maybe that is what caused it to wear the belt? Debri?
Thank you for answering! I am going to make an air filter to go on the tube and lube it all good.
Oh no I don’t remember seeing an notification email about your reply I am sorry. That does make sense. I need to get a set of star bit hand drivers, I have star bits or Torx, but they are for my impact and an apex will not go down the hole to take the cover off. Yes it is direct drive piston, no belt if I am not mistaken. I plan on getting a set soon just for that so I will let you know if that is what it is in case someone else asks, thank you.
I have a 60 gal. 220 v compressor. Been great for years. Suddenly l turn it on, and it sounds great until about 70# and then sounds bogged down, making other weird noises. I then noticed a burning smell so I shut down. Have not read about this type problem so I don’t know where to look
Don’t know the model number so don’t know if this is belt driven. Is the smell a burning belt, or is it coming off the motor? What weird noises, please?
My Kobalt air compressor VPK0880803 recently stopped building up pressure. It maxes out at 40 psi and the engine stays on trying to build it up. I pulled apart the unit today and noticed that the piston ring is cracked and warped out of shape. That would explain it. Called Lowes but they don’t have a parts program or a way to order parts. Called the number on the back of my compressor and it is no longer in service. I have been searching around and it looks like Sanbor is the manufacturer of this unit and Powermate is compatible as well. I need part #047-0101. Any leads on where to get this or should I call it a day?
I just googled 047-0101 and found several websites that have the part. It looks like it is connecting rod/piston assembly so you get everything. The sites I looked at were in the $28-$30 range (before shipping.)
No parts means no parts, Brian. I can’t find any either. I do see a host of compressors that are 1HP and some 1.5HP in the $100 range. If you even find the part for your compressor, I’ll be it would equal a big chunk of the $100 for the part, gaskets, etc. So, in this case, painful as it is, if you cannot find the same compressor (Sanborn you say, yet I’ve found the same sold by Coleman Powermate) used for parts, it may be time to call it a day. Keep the old one though as some of the parts on it will be usable as back for the new compressor.
Brand: Kobalt
Model: LLA4508065, 221580
I have Kobalt 80 gallon unit and its work great for about 5 years now ,but now I have to turn the switch on and off a dozen times to get it to turn on , I am worried it may not turn on at all dont know whats going here any one know ???
I have a 3 year old Kobalt 26 Gal 125 PSI oil less compressor that has never worked from the day I purchased it. Model #37296 serial # DDD9184. I took it back to store and was told the tool pressure was not set correctly. When turned on it builds to 60 Lbs and shuts off. Hit reset button and it builds to 90 and shuts off. Reset button will not turn the compressor back on to build sufficient pressure. Help!
Sorry that you’ve had such a terrible time with your Kobalt compressor Ron. I’m sure I cannot agree to the “tool pressure being not set correctly” as being the cause. If you dial the regulator up to 100 PSI, then that’s what should be going down the line to the air tool. If the compressor cannot, however, build pressure up to 100 PSI, then no matter where you set the regulator, the air tool will only get what the compressor can deliver. Tell us about the socket you’ve plugged the compressor into? Is it a long way from the power panel? Are there many other items on the same circuit? What is the amperage of the breaker / fuse? Are you using an extension cord? These and other things should be checked, and all are covered on the pages on this site already.
Hello Clint. If you have not done so, you will need to pull the cover from the control panel. Examine the regulator and how it is plumbed into the manifold. We suspect you will find that this is a typical general purpose regulator, unless yours is digital, then it’s more complex. Have a look at the regulator page on this site for more guidance. We suspect that replacing your regulator with a non-OEM shouldn’t be too difficult.
I have a kobalt 20 gal compressor model 0332041. Had it for over a year and it worked great until I had to turn down the pressure and my regulator stopped working. Now I I have a full tank with no way to get pursue to my fills and I can’t seem to find the right part. It shows in the book that the part number is wcfaty.04.05 but i can’t find it on any parts site. Is there a common regulator I can use our do you know where I can find the part I need
you can order it from 1-888-3KOBALT, it was 18.75 for part, tax and shipping
I have a Kobalt Model 37296 Air compessor and I need the start capacitor. But when I look around I only find them for 250 volt. the bad one I have is only 125 volt. Was this a special item for this compressor only?
Not to our knowledge is it special, but possible. Regardless, check the range of voltage for the capacitors you have found. Many (most) are rated 120-240 Volt, and if that’s the case with the one you found, and it has the same range for MFD. See this page for more details: http://fix-my-compressor.com/is-the-compressor-start-capacitor-working/
I am going nuts trying to find an unloader valve for a Kobalt 30 gallon air compressor with the model numbers 215921 (KLA1683066) on it. Campbell Hausfeld sent me a check valve instead and I can’t find what I need…. I am in Panama City Fl area, does anyone know where I can get help?
@mitziHarless… have you looked here?
Portable single Stage Electric Air Compressor
Mitzi, we have been able to determine that the part number for the switch may be: 034-0184, though we cannot be sure as we cannot find an image of your compressor clear enough to identify the switch. We mention the switch because the unloader valve is a part of the switch. Please Google “pressure switch 034-0184” and when you see an image of that switch, make sure it looks like yours. Or, start a new thread on this page, and add photos of your current pressure switch, preferably one from each side.
I have a 30 gallon digitech plus air compressor that blew out 4 30a fuses. On the front it says made in USA but I found the compressor saying made in Mexico
I bought it 8 years ago for the past 5 and a half years I have been wanting to fix it but haven’t been able to till now.
Why is it doing this?
We moved this post to the Kobalt pages as Kobalt makes the Digitech air compressor. This compressor has a smaller HP electric motor, and as such, blowing 30 amp fuses suggests a serious electrical problem. While it is possible that a failed capacitor may be the cause, we surmise that there is more likely a fault to ground somewhere in the electrical circuit, possibly in the motor windings, and that’s where you want to focus your search. we would recommend not powering up the compressor until the fault is found.
The metal around the piston fractured. How can I get a replacement? Model 37296. 26 gallon 159hp. It’s a 2008 model. It’s been sitting for 5yrs. Now I need one and can’t buy a new one. It is missing pieces of the metal shroud so welding is not an option. Thanks for any help.
You aren’t alone. We did a search and found this article: http://www.about-air-compressors.com/kobalt-compressor-37296-casting-fracture.html. They appear to have been a high price for a compressor with such a poor track record. You can acquire a whole new compressor of the same size for $100-$200 should you wish. A search on resale websites will most likely turn up some of these compressors should you wish to replace the fractured parts by cannibalizing another compressor. We know of no source for new parts.
I have a Kobalt 60 gal model number 221565 with the condor switch and unloader valve. The unloader is plastic with a type of push-in ferrule compression fitting on the line. When the compressor reaches about 60 psi, it blows the line off the unloader. I pulled the check valve and cleaned all the crud out of it and made sure the spring still works, and it does. When I cut off the motor, the air hissing from the line stops. Is the valve not opening, and if not, is there an adjustment inside the switch?
When you say the unloader is plastic, we take that to mean that the unloader line is plastic, yes? If so, over time, the plastic air line loses some of its elasticity. If that has happened with yours, then that may account for the line blowing off the instant fitting inside the pressure switch. If there is enough slack in the line, try cutting off 1/2″ or so of the line, and reinserting it. That may resolve the issue, as would replacing the line with a new one. Good that you cleaned your tank check valve. That’s always a good idea from time to time, anyway. We doubt it’s the tank check valve that is the problem. Maybe you could let us know if this solution resolved the problem with the unloader line blowing off?
I have a kobalt 30 gallon oil less compressor. its been a great compressor until lately i had noticed an air leak.. i finally took it apart and found that the compression fittings from the pump to the tank have a small air leak… i took it off thinking this should be an easy parts to find. 3 weeks later i haven’t found anything.. i;m about to reuse the same line and do some type of repair to stop the air… i rather replace it but i cant find.. can anyone help i would love to get my compressor back up and running.