If you have a Central Pneumatic air compressor, and you didn’t buy it used, from a garage sale, or from on on-line end-of-line wholesaler, odds are pretty good that you bought it at Harbor Freight.
In 2017, Harbor Freight offers about 35 different Central Pneumatic air compressors, from a 1/6 HP air brush style to a 5 HP, almost commercial type, on a 60 gallon air tank. They even have one model of a gas-powered, wheelbarrow style, that is quite well priced.
Central Pneumatic air compressors can be purchased through Harbor Freight on-line, or at the many Harbor Freight stores found throughout the United States.
Buyers of Central Pneumatic air compressors are, pretty much I think, aware that you get what you pay for. This line of compressors is entry level. I don’t believe they are made for serious compressed air use, where whether or not a compressor works means that trades persons do or don’t do work that day.
Which is not to say, if you are a periodic user of compressed air – the typical small workshop or home garage for example – you won’t be happy with this brand of compressors reliability. I just wouldn’t put the supply of my plants air system at the mercy of this particular brand.
While Harbor Freight boasts of having manufacturing around the world, I would be surprised if they actually owned a factory that makes air compressors. Their entire line is similar or identical to compressors of other brands with different colors and different labels. I could be wrong and will be happy to indicate so if someone can provide proof that HF actually makes their own compressors.
Regardless of whether they make them or not, try to find parts for a Central Pneumatic air compressor. Aside from pressure switches, gauges, regulators, PRV’s and check valves (all the same as those found on many other brands) there are very few repair parts for the compressor pump or the motor. Parts from other Central Pneumatic air compressors can often be used on other models of this brand. If you can scrounge or buy a non-working compressor, some parts from the old can be reused to fix others that have failed. Depends on your skill level as to whether or not this works for you.
If you are having a problem with your Central Pneumatic air compressor why not add a question or comment here? Include the model number of your compressor. As a result, perhaps the Central Pneumatic air compressor owner/user family, which is a huge one, can offer advice as some of them will, undoubtedly, already dealt with the same problem you are experiencing with your HF Central Pneumatic air compressor.
Additional pages of information about Central Pneumatic air compressors can be found on these pages on this site:
I have a Central pneumatic 8 gal model 40400 compressor. I need a replacement head gasket and cylinder gasket. I’ve tried to find them on line but the ones that show up don’t look like the parts picture in the manual.
Anyone have any info on where to get these. The part number, etc?
Thanks!
My central pneumatic. Model 67847 oil plug is shooting out compressor oil when I use my compressor need ideal how to fix or where to find another oil plug 21 hp 125 psi 2.5
Central Pneumatic 21gal vertical compressor #61454 seems to have seized (electrical buzz sound but no movement of the piston). It has had little use and is almost new. One of my workers initially put way too much compressor oil in (I’ve removed excess since and have it at the right level) but still sound but no movement/air).
Electric Central pneumatic 2hp 4gallon. Runs fine but won’t shut off after reaching 125psi
Model 61615. Need copper tubing for the compressor part. To the pressure valve can’t find it
High , need to order a piston rebuild kit . Where can I buy this? Can you give me the correct part number need piston. I have item 62629 serial number 4517-37176 1.8 hp, 26 gal, 150 psi max
I have a 3 gallon central pneumatic compressor 95275. It quit building up pressure and when i turn it off it sounds like its leaking on the inside. Whats the problem.
i have a central air compressor sence 2020, i have used it maby 5 tomes to air up a tire , all of sudden it will not start up . it trys but wil not start, then it knoks the breaker. i dont know what is wrong or how to fix it, if anyone can help me i will forever owe you, thanks in advance.
I have a CP 68067 150 PSI 26 gallon compressor. Is there another compressor I can replace the model # 9416797 compressor with? The existing compressor works fine but does not have the what I would call the reserve air supply or the pumping capability to run a small air tool. When using an air palm sander the compressor kicks on and draws the tank down rapidly. Also it will never build any air pressure while I am u8sing the sander.
NEED PART # 3B13- WE15 VALUE PLAT OR JUST THE REED VALUE FOR PLATE
1.987L X .57 W X 52 TH NEED FOUR
NORTH STAR COMPRESSOR. MODEL XQ2020VP
What size exhaust tube for central pneumatic 125 psi 2.5 21gal. Vertical air compressor?
My compressor is a 2.5 HP, 21 Gallon Model 61639. While switching on the activation bar, the compressor started up for about 5 seconds and then cut out. Would this be a bad pressure switch? It’s been running fine and then this happened. It’s not a very old model, probably 4 years. It was purchased new from Harbor Freight.
I need a connecting rod for a 67697 3HP compressor. Not available from HF. Any suggestions?
I have a Central Pneumatic 67847, 2.5 hp, 21 gal., 125 psi vertical compressor. It has LeFoo LF104H pressure switch. It used to work fine. I have not replaced any parts. I started it with zero pressure in the tank then closed the bottom tank valve to build pressure. The air compressor built tank pressure to 125 psi or more and the cut out never occurred instead the over pressure valve popped open releasing air. At this point I unplugged the power cord.
I tried adjusting the cut in cut out screws on the pressure switch but it still fails in the same manner as above.
I cleaned out the unloader valve so it’s now working properly. The spring and plunger move free. Before it was gunked up with grease or thread sealer.
I removed and tested the tank check valve by blowing through it from the tank side and no leaks. So it working properly.
That leaves the pressure switch. Should I replace it? Is there any thing else to try before ordering a new pressure switch?
My problem has been solved Thanks for all your help.
compressor runs great will not build pressure
broken cylinder and oil sump cover. No id marks or numbers on compressor but, it looks identical to your picture on this site. A 2.5hp, 21 gal, 125psi, vertical compressor. Would like to replace cylinder and sump housing as this has been a very good compressor. I dropped it down a flight of stairs.
I have central pneumatics model 62511 and need to replace the rupture disc on the back side of the compressor. Can someone direct me to where I can purchase this rupture disc. Thanks
Wayne
Here are 2 photos of the adjustment valve and the hole about 3/4 inch from top of adjustment screw is where it leaking.
I would check your check valve because that is your unloaded valve which is supposed to let air out when it’s off.. it it will leak if your check valve is not holding the pressure. When it’s running since it is not meant to hold a lot of pressure.
I forgot to say the original pressure switch is a 15 amp and the one that comes closes to what I need is 4 ports and pressure range is 135 to 175 psi and the amperage is an 26 amps Would I be able to adjust the pressure settings to what I need and is the 26 amps to much for my 29 gallon, 2 hp model 67696.
I have a central pneumatic 29 gallon 150 air compressor 2 Hp Model 67696. I know the pressure switch is set to shutoff a 150 psi and start up at about 120 psi. I need to buy a new pressure Switch because the one I have is leaking at the adjustment screw 3/4 the way down. My question is I can not find a pressure switch that is set at 120 –150 psi. So does any one know where I can a new pressure switch with 4 ports and meets the requirement as I said above. The close I have seen on the internet is 135 to 175 and I don’t know if can set the pressure switch to the 120 to 150
got one from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHYERH0?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details works great, good luck
I have a HF Central pneumatic 62629 and need a piston, cylinder and ring. Can’t find anywhere. Is there another brand that uses same spec parts?
I got a 1.8hp 26 gallon compressor (#62629) free from a friend and found the piston seal was destroyed. I haven’t been able to source a replacement and have tried making one at work from Teflon but the issue I’m having there is that the piston tilts in the cylinder and significantly compromises the seal when sitting at an angle. I briefly was able to build up to 110 of 150 psi but the seal didn’t last long. Where can I find a compatible replacement seal?
I have a 2 hp 17 gal. 150 psi CP air compressor from Harbor Freight. When l turn it on; it runs for 30 seconds and cuts off throwing the reset button. Only owned it for a year and haven’t run it more than two hours total!, Model 69666
I have the same issue and just haven’t used it at all. It’s still brand new. Do you need the reset button? Can I just wire the two together since both are black wires? Did you get yours working?
If you are using this compressor in the same place as you’ve used it and it wasn’t doing this before, then this symptom often means that the power supply from the panel is being siphoned off by other appliances, that an extension cord is being used where one was not used before, or that the motor is failing.
It could be a short in the thermal cut out fuse circuit if the motor has one.
Before deciding which of the above is most likely, can you tell us if it has the same issue when starting with the tank is empty, Karl?
Looking for a connecting rod for central pneumatic # 61489 29 gallon air pump. Key# 008; code# 2810100. Any help is appreciated.
Looking to find replacement parts for 145 psi twin cylinder model # 60754, need copper pipe exhaust assembly and fly wheel.
Bit of a delay. Sorry. Computer issues. When you say copper pipe assembly, are you referring to the tube from the pump head to the pump, or the tube from the tank check valve to the uloader?
Need belt for 5.5 gal air compressor
Be a bit hard to do not knowing the model number, John. Please check your documentation to find something that identifies the model you have, as they have so many. Thanks.
I have a central pneumatic air compressor 63635 21 gallon 2.5 H.P. blowing oil out the fill cap at 90 psi. What the suggestion on what to do.
You aren’t alone, Wayne. Try this page: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-seems-to-be-escaping-from-the-compressor-oil-refill-plug/
I cannot get photos to upload but the model is LEFOO LF10-4H
Hi Derek. I’m disturbed about you not being able to upload an image, as this was an issues that I was certain I had addressed. I went to the same page, and did a test, where I used the “paper clip” icon to open a source for photos, and I uploaded a fairly large image which you can see on the same page as your comment. It worked OK, so I don’t know how it didn’t work for your commnent. I am sorry about that.
The model number LEFOO LF10-4H is the pressure switch. While that model of switch has an On/Off toggle, it has no thermal cut out as part of it.
Hi, I have a CentralPneumatic 2hp, 8 gal 124 psi air compressor that is about 2 years old. . The compressor was running but started winding down and turned off completely. The compressor will no longer turn on at all. No noise, no vibration, not anything. Checked the oil and loose connections and found nothing. I have plugged other tools into the outlet to check if that was the problem. Any ideas.
Thanks in advance
A friend came over and pressed in what I would called a relay switch “button” on the compressor, with the hood removed. The compressor started working. I didn’t even know that switch was there
That “releay switch” was, perhaps, the thermal cut out or overload button. Can’t be sure as we can’t see it. Glad it’s working for you.
We don’t know what model of compressor you have, so we need to know, are there capacitor(s) on the motor. If so, please sell the page on this site about how to check. If not, please advise the model number and / or add a photo or two of the compressor as a comment.
I have a CP 2.5 HP 21 gal. tank. and its only a couple years old ,, not used alot at all ,, but it wont build pressure it all ,leaks out the the little cold start valve.. I REPLACED IT WITH A FACTORY VALVE .. STILL LEAKS OUT ,, see the arrow on top of the pic
Hi Rick. The danged software isn’t working… again! so I didn’t get the photo. I can tell you though that the cold start valve relies on pressure buildup from the pump cycling to force the valve shut. If the pump isn’t building enough air pressure as it begins cycling, then there isn’t enough pressure to close the cold start valve in particular the case here because you’ve already replaced the cold start valve. If this were my HF compressor, I’d replace these parts, the first number being the part number from the manual.
-8 Head Gasket 1
-9 Valve Plate 2
-10 Metal Gasket 1
To acquire them, contact Harbor Freight here: https://www.harborfreight.com/customer-service-contact-us.html Check out your compressor and pump labelling to see if there is a serial number and model number too, before you contact them.
My 1.8 26gal compressor will not come back on once the air is used has been used. What can it be.
Try this page about compressors that won’t restart when air is used.
replaced the pump only on my 60 gallon. Kept the 5 hp motor, and changed the pully to get to about 1100 rpm. Pumps up to just under 50 psi and wont go any further. Checked for leaks all good. What am I doing wrong???
What is the rpm spec of the motor off the motor plate, please Mike? If the specs call for RPM, feel at the oil fill tube (assuming there is one, as I don’t know the model) and make sure no air is leaking out there. If that’s good, it’s not likely a piston sleeve, so then I’d consider pulling the top off the pump and checking the valves. If you do, be prepared to replace the pump gasket(s).
The rpm on the motor is 3450. I put a 4.75″ pulley on the motor. The pulley on the pump is 14.50″. This is a brand new unit out of the box. It will build to about 50 psi and I do have minor leaks in my lines but they have been there for a while. It takes about 2 hours to drop to 25 psi. I don’t think this slow leak is the problem. Any help is appreciated.
I guess what I’m saying is, are you sure the pulley sizes are the same as the original? Are you under-cycling the pump?
The pressure drop may be related to junk in the tank check valve preventing it from seating completely.
And you are getting full current to the motor on the supply side?
I have a 29 gallon 2hp air compressor. It will pressure to 150 psi and then shut off, when it restarts it stalls and throws the breaker. I checked the pull and it is pulling around 26 amps when it restarts and stalls. Does anyone have a fix or solution for this?
Jeremy, would you check the capacitor please: http://fix-my-compressor.com/is-the-compressor-start-capacitor-working/.
Hi
We have a 2hp 8 gallon model 40400 Air compressor. I was wondering if there is a more detailed Manual then this one. The other monk that is a bit of a mechanic himself thought this manual was insufficient, the problem we are having is three leaks dealing with the area around the Air pressure Switch. Thanks
Here is the 40400 manual.
Mong, clean or replace the tank check valve, item #41 on the parts list. That will likely resolve the leaks from teh pressure switch.
Have CP air compresor Model #61454. Was given to me as a Christmas gift. Works irratically. what is the fix?
Please define what you mean by erratically.
I just purchased 6gallon cp pancake compressor it pumps up 150 psi on both gauges but soon as use blow nozzle regulator pressure drops all the way down soon as let off trigger regulator pressure goes back 150 immediately
Hi Carl. We’ve heard that one from another of sources. It may be a failed regulator, and if so, you’ll need to replace it. It’s hard to check for that if the regulator won’t pass air.
Try starting at zero on the regulator, and ramping up pressure by 10 PSI increments and test flow each time. Does it not work at all?
It does work but regulator and air pressure will drop way down when tank still full
The regulator needs fixing/replacing. You either likely need to replace the whole manifold if you can find one, or find a plug to seal the port where the regulator is now, and add a small regulator at the compressor outlet and re-plumb the coupler into the downstream side of the new regulator.
Hello!! I have a CP 21 gallon 2.5 hp model 61454. A couple of nights ago I left my regulator up too high, probably around 80 psi. I usually leave it at zero. The next morning I woke up to a foggy garage and absolutely no way to turn the compressor off. It looked like it was still holding some pressure, but in the chaos I wasn’t able to tell how much. I left it alone for about 36 hours and when I tried to turn it on, the same exact thing happened. I literally cannot manually turn it off! I have to unplug it from the wall. Can you lead me in the direction of what I need to replace or is it a goner? I really appreciate any help you could give.
Jennifer
Jennifer; when you say you left the regulator up too high, what does that mean, please. The air regulator controls the pressure of the air flowing out of the compressor into the air line. It doesn’t matter how high you set it, if the tank pressure is, say 100 PSI, the regulator will only dial up to 100 PSI, no higher. So perhaps you might give me a bit more info on that.
When you say tha you couldn’t turn the compressor off, does that mean it was continuosly running for hours?
I just mean that I usually turn the regular all the way to zero after use. I don’t know if this affected what is going on or not. The other question about not being able to turn it off… the on/off switch to the compressor does not work at all. The only way to turn off the compressor is to unplug it. Also, when I found it, it was running continuously and would not cut off on its own. That’s when I found out the on/off switch was not working because I tried to shut it down without success. I do want to also mention that around the area of the switch was what looked like blow back from air that I could see remnants on the compressor. I hope this helps and doesn’t confuse you more! Thanks again for your help!
Hey there. I question the necessity of turning your regulator to zero at the end of the day, though that does often shut off the air flow through it, and if you have a leak in an airline further along, that might prevent the tank from emptying.
If the compressor continues running, regardless if the ON/OFF switch works or not, what happens to the air pressure in the tank? Does it rise to the point of blowing off the pressure relief valve, or does the pressure rise to a pressure level below the normal cut off and then the pressure rise stops but the compressor keeps running?
Nevertheless, from what you are saying, it sure seems that the pressure switch is malfunctioning, and if it is one where the unloader valve is part of the internals of that switch, that might explain the “blowback” on the switch and nearby areas of the compressor.
Please advise. Thanks.
Here is what is happening with my compressor. The pressure relief valve cuts on at around 20 psi. I let the compressor run until it got to a level of what I felt was no longer safe, which was around 125-130 psi..At this level, there was also a smell that started, it was as if a radiator was burning antifreeze. At this point, I unplugged the compressor and decompressed the tank. I hope this helps! Thanks again!
So here’s what happens to the compressor itself. The pressure relief valve kicks on at about 20 psi. After this, I allowed the compressor to continue filling until it got about 125-130 psi. At this point, there was the smell of almost like antifreeze being burnt off by a radiator. I immediately unplugged the compressor and let the air out. I do hope this helped more.
I also attached a picture so maybe you could see the blowback I was speaking of earlier. I hope that helps also. Thanks so much for taking the time to help me out!!
Hello again, Jennifer.
OK, some issues with words if you don’t mind. What turns the compressor on and off is the PRESSURE SWITCH, it’s not the regulator.
The regulator, which is typically the last item in the pipe from the tank before the coupler into which you plug your air line, is used to control the pressure going to the air line. That is all.
The PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE is the device that opens automatically if the compressor starts to over-pressure. If it “kicks in”, that means that it opens and all the air would come out, so it’s not the pressure relief valve is kicking in, it’s likely the pressure switch. The usual term for the pressure valve letting go is “cracking” or, just say it blows open. I don’t think yours is.
20 PSI is a very low cut in pressure for this type of compressor. Normally the compressor would restart when the tank pressure dropped to around 80 PSI or so. That tells me that there is something off about the pressure switch.
You say “it got about 125-130 psi”. The normal cut out for this compressor should be 125 PSI, so it appears as though the cut out is working, given that cheap gauges, which they use, often have an error range of +5/-5 PSI.
However, if it’s not stopping automatically at 125 PSI or very close to that, and if it’s not “cutting in” until 20 PSI, then you need to replace the pressure switch. That sounds like the source of your compressor problems.
The “stuff” blowing out may be oil from the sump burning off on the hot pump. That might be just that the compressor is overheating a bit because it’s running so long, or it may indicate that the piston seal is compromised.
I suggest you replace the switch first, and then let us know what you found when you got it running again. The switch shows as being available at Harbor Freight. Call your store first to see if they actually have one. If not, use your browser to search for “pressure switch for a Central Pneumatic 61454”. You’ll find sources I’m sure.
Hello levi
I took the piston out of a twin tank 3hp peak air compressor model 42321 and now I am waiting for the 3 piston rings to come from in the mail. I cleaned the piston and the cylinder and decided to do this due to low air compression. Anyways I was wondering if you can accidently put the cylinder in wrong after reinstallation, I looked at some other utubes for info on on to do it. But I figure if you put it in wrong, you might as well not have bought it. Thanks
I gave a 1/3HP 3 Gal 100 max psi brand Central Pneumatic. I cannot get it to run more than a second because it keeps blowing fuses. Haven’t had it for long, everything electrical is tight still. Any ideas?
Hello Levi. Tell me about where and how you’ve got the compressor plugged in. Are you using an extension cord? If so, what gauge is it? Also, is the circuit powering the compressor a breaker or fuse, and what amperage is it? Thanks.
Is the tank empty when you try to start it up or is it a full tank
I bought a Central air compressor, 1.5 HP, 6 gallon, Item #62380, from Harbor Freight in late 2017 for $100. While it still works, it has developed a serious air leak. When pumped up to full pressure, it will go to zero in about 1 hour. I can actually hear the air leaking inside the black plastic cowling. If I could remove the cowling, I could probably stop the leak. I cannot figure out how to remove the cowling. Please advise.
Gerald, I’ve uploaded an image of what I believe your 62380 compressor looks like. I hope I’m close.
The cowling is attached by the socket screws shown in this diagram:
These are (item 12) M6 x 25 mm socket had cap screws. You’ll need a metric allen type key to remove them.
Item #4 is the tank check valve. I suspect you’ll find, when you get under the cover, that the check valve is the culprit. It can be cleaned or replaced if in fact it is.
Here is the Harbor Freight – Central Pneumatic 62380 air compressor manual for your reference. Good luck.
Central Pneumatic 3 Gallon oil-less pancake air compressor: HF Item 60637, which
I purchased a few days ago. I filled it with air and carried out to put air in the golf cart tires. When I sat it down on the ground, the schrader air valve popped open releasing a blast of air. I quickly pushed closed. I moved the tank to the other side of the golf cart & when I sat it on the ground, the air valve popped open again. Have you ever heard of such things happening with this tank or any other tank? Is it faulty? Should I return it for an exchange? I await your advice. Thanks
Hi Lonnie. The valve you refer to as the Schrader air valve is, I suspect, the compressor pressure relief valve seen on the left of the housing when looking straight on at the compressor.
I believe this compressor has a 100 PSI upper limit, which means the compressor should shut off at 100 PSI. The question then is, at what pressure is the PRV cracking open to spill air from the system? Please advise as a comment here. Thanks.
17 gallon 150 psi Broke rod and messed sleeve up, what parts interchange or where can you get replacements
Hi JChapman. It will be difficult for sure to find parts if we don’t know the model number of this Central Pneumatic compressor. If you have the manual, that should show the model number. If not, can you look around on the compressor and see if you can find something that identifies yours? Central Pneumatic / Harbor Freight sell an awful lot of small air compressors. Thanks.
63132. It’s a 1.8 hp 150 psi 17 gallon air compressor. Need connecting rod, piston, sleeve
Like yourself I’ve searched and found none of the spares you seek. When I look at the manual for this compressors, in the manual parts section, it doesn’t even list these parts. Unfortunately, that tells me that HF deems this as a disposable pump, and either you buy a replacement or… if you look at the specs, you can acquire a different brand for around $75 dollars, and either use the new or use the pump from it to fill the larger tank on your compressor. Or… start scouring the for sale sites near you and see who’s got a brand of compressor for sale used that might suit.
That, or hope that another reader can advise where to get the parts you need. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help.
My air compressor is blow all the air out the safety valve when started up.
If the safety valve has a piston with a ring on it on the end, push that piston back in. If it pops open on start up, then the PRV will either need a good cleaning or replacing.
If it’s not that, add a comment with a picture of the safety valve on your compressor. Thanks.
How do you change the belt on a 62629? Impossible!
Hi, I have a CP model 61693 2.5 HP 21 gal. tank. It has worked great for several years to seasonally change my snow tires and inflate my pontoon boat. Now though, it’s only filling to about 90 PSI and just keeps running (should go to 125 then shut off). Any advice/suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
Yup Keep using it! More is less. My company CP 2.5 will not build pressure. I made some reed valves out of stainless metal and it is back in service
Jack, this compressor is oil lubed. Check the vent in the oil fill cap to see if a lot of air is blowing out that vent. If so, you’re looking a new piston ring for sure. If you wish, while the head of the compressor is off – as that what you’ll have to do next after dumping all the air – replace any head gaskets and check the valves in the pump head to be sure that they are sound.
Thanks Willyr! I got lucky and found a loose fitting where the air was leaking. A quick tightening of the nut and all is well again!
3 gallon pancake started giving off an acrid, burning electrical odor after a year of off and on use. Now won’t start at all. No trouble shooting advice anywhere seems to refer to this.
The acrid burning smell suggests the motor. Don’t know if that compressor motor has windings, but it may be that a short has caused the issue. Diagnosing that on a motor is beyond the ken of most, and it may require getting a pro’s help. That will cost as much as the compressor, I would suspect. Good luck.
I just got the 3 gallon oil less pancake compressor. Is there a way to lengthen the amount of time it will run between refills? I’m in a small room using it for art and it o my has a 20 of pressure difference between full and needing to refill. Can I adjust that down a bit so it doesn’t refill as often?
Thanks
Rachel
The first step, if you haven’t done so already, is to dial down the pressure on the regulator to the lowest pressure setting that will work for you.
The next step is to take a photo of the parts page that shows what pressure switch this model of compressor has, as if we can’t see it, we don’t know if it’s adjustable. Please add a photo in your response to this thread.
I have a Central Pneumatic 67696 150 psi 6 gal. Have had for years and been pretty good. Now when pressure gets up to 150 psi in tank, PRV let’s go and it never shuts down. Only way I can use it is to shut off compressor once pressure gets up to 130 or so. Is this a faulty PRV? A fiend told me some tube which signal compressor to shut off might be kinked or need to be replaced. I’m not too mechanical but can follow You tube to fix something. Appreciate any advice!
Is 150 PSI the normal cut out pressure, or is it lower? If the normal cut out pressure is 10-15 PSI below the 150 PSI where the PRV is letting go, it’s quite possible the pressure switch that’s failed. If 150 PSI is the normal cut out, and the PRV is letting go at that pressure, then it’s quite possibly the PRV.
Dump all the air with the compressor off, remove the PRV, rinse it in thinner or boiling water, dry, and test again. If it is still cracking open at or before the normal cut out of the compressor, replace it.
Thank you Willyr! It’s supposed to cut out at 150psi. I’ll try removing and cleaning the safety valve and if that doesn’t work, replacing it. Appreciate the advice very much!
You are welcome, and let us know how it turns out, will you?
I decided to buy a new safety PRV and replace. The new PRV works “better” as it blows at about 155psi and the closes back at 120psi. The old one would just stay open until the tank drained. So I’m guessing my problem is the pressure switch not shutting off the compressor at 150psi. Don’t have the tools to get the cover off so guessing I’m stuck with what I have or bring it somewhere to have it repaired. Or find the right tool (8″ or so drive to reach hex head I’m guessing?). Thanks again for the help!
There’s a bunch of comments and posts on this site about getting the covers off low end compressors. If you use the search function at the top of the nav column, you’ll find them. And yes, often the hex bolt is metric in size and needs an extra long wrench to reach the head.
My model 95275 3 gal compressor won’t start. Is there a fuse?
It had worked fine for years but today I plugged it in and nothing .
Mike, you need to do a few checks. When you do, please add a comment. Not sure which? Try these pages, all found linked from the compressor troubleshooting page on this site.
air compressor will not start
air compressor cycles on and off all the time
air compressor just hums
air compressor will not start when cold
compressor trips the breaker when restarting
compressor will not restart when air is used
I have a 9gal wheelbarrow type and it suddenly started shutting down once it reached top pressure instead of throttling back to idle and cycling on and off. Found the pilot valve shaft was slightly bent and replaced that, but it is still shutting down. I’m now wondering if it’s something to do with the throttle control.
I’m no expert when it comes to gasoline powered air compressors Darrell, yet it certainly makes sense that if, instead of throttling down to idle when the tank is full, the Central Pneumatic compressor (what model is this, by the way?) shuts down.
Please identify the model number, and add a photo of the compressor in your response to this please.
Bought a 1/3 HP hot dog compressor Central neumatic from HF store used 6 times to fill pool toys and my car tire; Now it does not build pressure, never again will I get Peumatic Comp again ; I guess you really get what you pay for.
Mostly, huh? B.
trying to find a replacement tube, the one from motor to tank that has compression ring on either end. mine sheared off after I attempted to tighten the nut. what kind of store sells aluminum or better yet copper flexible tube and compression rings? 3gal 100psi pancake
I suspect that if you took the fittings and the tube to a good industrial plumbing or compressed air supply shop, or an auto parts supply shop, they’ll be able to fix you up with a custom one, made for the compressor.
The air outlet that attaches to the hose broke off
Thanks
Howard
Howard, I call that outlet the discharge coupler, if I’m guessing right about what you are talking about. Please see this page: http://fix-my-compressor.com/connecting-your-air-tools/.
If you go to the hardware store where you buy pneumatic stuff, you can get coupler and connector kits there. They are usually under $20. Remove the broken part of the old coupler, install a new one, and if it fits the connectors you have that’s good (it probably will) but if not, replace the connectors with ones from the new kit as they will be compatible.
My grandfather recently bought a 2.5 HP 21 Gallon compressor and forgot to put the oil in for initial use seizing the compressor. I since then have gotten the compressor running although it will only occasionally build pressure, and even then it only gets to about 20 PSI. I took the top of the cylinder off and the small metal plates now refuse to stay in place. Is there something else I need to do to get it back working or should I just replace the compressor with another that I have?
While I cannot see the compressor or the “plates” (flapper or finger valves I suspect) it sounds as though heat may have warped them. Find parts or trash the compressor? Depends on how much time you want to spend, parts cost if you can find them, and the urgency, I guess. Good luck.
I have the 21 gallon CP 2.5 HP model 61454. I recently replaced/repaired the reed valve and was working fairly well. Then a couple days later I noticed it kept running and would not go past 90 psi. Someone told me it might be the pressure sensor, but want another opinion form someone that may know from experience. Also if it is the pressure sensor or something else, where can I buy the right part?
Sure Aurelio, this issue is covered in detail on the pages of this site. Check the troubleshooting page, and read the pages that relate. If you still have questions, please add them as a comment.
I have a friend who has a Central Pneumatic Model# 95386 air compressor.
It is having and intermittant problem of the reset switch operating and having to be reset to get it started. When it starts again, it runs very slowly until it eventually trips again.
Sometimes it will run normally and stay running at the normal higher rate of speed and then eventually return to the slow speed until it is stopped by whatever it is that is tripping the reset. Any ideas as to which direction to look to solve this problem?
Sounds like it is plugged into an extension cord that is not heavy enough.
Assuming there’s no change in location, and the compressor worked there before, see the information on this site about checking the capacitors. The symptoms suggest the compressor start capacitor may be failing.
I have the 21 gallon 2.5hp 125psi HF compressor and it’s doing exactly what Michaels is doing. So, I replaced my capacitor and there was no change. was still tripping the reset switch. its starts slow and if I keep at it I can get it up to operating speed, that takes some time. I’m leaning towards extension cord problem. and why that you ask, well I just moved to my new home and it ran fine at my last place. and I only have 100 amp service in my house AND out here in garage. didn’t figure that out until after I moved in. will keep posted if that was the problem.
Where can I get a regulator assy for a Central Pneumatic 95275 compressor?
I think when you pull the cover off you’ll see something like what is shown in the image uploaded. That’s a manifold, and I don’t believe parts for it are available, or if you can even find the manifold.
The solution is to assemble your own from standard brass fittings from a decent plumbing supply house, and replace the regulator that came with the unit with a general purpose mini-regulator (typically 1/8″ in port size, at a cost of about $15 for the new regulator. Then, if you have regulator problems again, it’s easy to get a replacement. Good luck.
The image was a “screen grab” from a you tube video by Don Brandt about repairing a Central Pneumatic compressor. The video can be viewed by following this link.
I have a problem with a central pneumatic (Harbor Freight) 29 gal oil lubed unit that will build pressure fine until it reaches ~100 psi then it starts to “strain”/”lugs” and motor ( single phase induction 120v) begins making some “ticking/clicking” noises and unless I turn it off manually it will trip the breaker in the panel ( never the motor reset).
I’ve replaced the run cap-(did not fix). Tank check valve seems ok ( no visible signs to indicate faulty and no air leaks from anywhere when tank pressurized).
Unit is supposed to cut out at 150 and back in at 120.
I purchased the unit in this condition (used- barely-it looks brand new so obviously hasn’t seen much use and seller didn’t have much history about it). What else could it be? Thanks in advance.
20 amp breaker. Panel to outlet is ~ 25′.
Thanks for the info. I expect your compressor is 1.5-3 HP in motor size, and as such, the power supply should be more than adequate.
If it’s not the power supply to the motor, it must either be an increasing load due to air pressure building, a mechanical issue backloading the motor, or the motor itself. That it’s popping the breaker at the panel and not the motor cut out says to me that it’s not a heat issue (the motor would trip out on thermal) but is load related.
It were mine, it would be time to pull the top off the pump and check the valves.
My first thought is power supply. What’s the breaker amperage, and what’s the distance between the panel and the socket?
Had my 125psi 2.5 hp 21 gallon central pneumatic lil over a year NEVER BEEN HAPPY DOESNT NEAR ENOUGH AIR. Also the cold start valve went out as they ALL DO !
Went to replace it and never got valve screwed all the way in until the housing on the compressor snapped into. BEFORE YOU SAY I OVER TIGHTENED, I’M A CERTIFIED PRECISION STEAM TURBINE MECHANIC I KNOW ALL ABOUT TORQUE SPECS AND EXCETRA.
TERRIBLE PRODUCT WILL ( NEVER BUY ANOTHER ONE ! JUST SCRAP NOW!!
RATE 1 ☆ ROBERT RAY MOUNT PLEASANT,TX.
I purchased a Central Pneumatic 67696 Air Compressor several years ago. A few weeks ago it would not shut off at the high pressure level approximately 150PSI. The PVR goes off and the motor does not shut down. I ordered a new switch thru Amazon. It arrived yesterday after a week delay and got it installed. Nothing has changed. Any suggestions.
Is the PRV is letting go too soon? What pressure is the PRV letting go at? Note that the air gauges can be out of range by +-5 PSI.
It’s that or you have a bum switch. There seems to have been a lot of complaints of that going around recently. Possible a bad batch by the Chinese plant.
Thanks for the info. Will try to locate a new PRV. If that doesn’t work I’ll try better gauges. If they cost too much, I’ll just fill the tank and shut it down.
I bought a central phumatic twin cylinder 145 psi pump 1 year ago with a new 5 HP electric motor 3450 rpm. I did the math from the HF manual and installed 4.5″ pulley on electric motor. I just started to build the air compressor a week ago June 10,2020 the parts have been in my garage shrink wraped until I needed them . After several configurations of the 3/4″ tubing that i replaced from flared copper to compression stainless steel and installing new tank check valve 3/4″ with a a 90-145 psi pressure switch all I can get out of my compressor is 25 psi. I have a HD 60 gallon tank. The pump gets close to 25 psi and slows to trip the electric motor if I dont throw the on off switch. I have changed the start capacitor and run assist capacitor with no change. Checked the reed valves were all good and put new gaskets on the valve plate and head.i changed out 2 different pressure switches and 2 capacitors. I am out out ideas and watched videos asked people at HP and everone tells me to change the parts I have changed please can some one help me .
Try filling the tank from another compressor. (Make an F-to-F adapter). This will test your tank and fitting integrity and the gauge readings. Use soapy water or windex spray to check for slow leaks.
It sounds like a power supply issue, that or loading on the pump from increasing air pressure is overcoming the motor’s ability to drive against it. Help others help you and tell us a bit about the power supply to the compressor from the breaker at the panel to the compressor, won’t you?
I have a 3 gal oiless pancake compressor. Central pneumatic. I am looking for the regulator for this compressor model 60637. Any help.
Please, in a comment, add a photo of your compressor and the current regulator. Thanks.
(I need ) the red pressure knob and valve assembly on the regulator manifold from the tank.
Hi Bill. Got this one photo, anyway.
If it were me, and knowing that parts for this regulator are few and far between, I’d simple replace the whole assembly with brass fittings from a decent plumbing shop, and then install instead of the junk that came with the compressor, and off-the-shelf 1/8″ regulator available almost anywhere for peanuts.
I have model E 99780. It runs and builds pressure but does not hold pressure. New hose and fittings. Still does not hold for very long. And it is taking along time to build pressure.
It’s hard to tell from the drawings (no pictures) I’ve seen, but I believe the mini-pump on this compressor pumps into the tank via a valve. This valve is item 20 on the parts list. This valve should both allow the air from the pump to enter the tank while the compressor is running, and also keep the air in the tank while the compressor is off. That compressed air is then accessible to the filter / regulator manifold at the front of the compressor via the tube from the tank there.
If my surmise is correct, in that valve is a flapper or check, and if that flapper or check is not seating tightly, air will escape. You need to find that valve and check it I believe.
If you have no manual they are available on line.
I have the 21 gal model 61454. Less than 2 months old. The reset keeps popping when its time to fill ? Start of day. Motor not hot. Tries to start then pops? Any ideas?
A bunch… try these first.
– http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-trips-the-breaker-on-restart/
– http://fix-my-compressor.com/is-the-compressor-start-capacitor-working/
we have ran these tests.The air compressor turns on and fills to 5 psi and then shuts off. We have to push the reset to get it to run a little more. We have drained the tank unplugged watched for the arching and sparking (which there is none) It plugged straight into the wall.
I would think from the symptoms described, the start capacitor is weak or failing. Please go here: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/ and scroll down and look at the pages to do with capacitors if you aren’t sure about what they are.
Where is the shaft cap and centrifugal switch on this if there is either? Also where would I get the same motor or one that works better yet is compatible to this compressor
Model: 61454
21 gallon
125 psi
Typically the centrifugal switch for an electric compressor motor is on the shaft end that connects to the drive. It’s normally under the cap, and looks like this.
If you aren’t seeing this, then your compressor motor doesn’t have one. Time for a motor load check at a repair depot.
Hey there. I got the 69091 model 21 gal 125 psi air compressor. I let it sit outside forgetting it was there and didn’t change the oil. I ran it for about a year here and there doing small stuff but this week I turned it on and heard a snap and the motor went to running super smoothe. The connecting rod broke.
I need to know if there is a replacement part for it and if so a part number. I can’t find one. I’ve emailed hf and no answer yet. I’d like to fix it if it’s available. Its been a great small compressor. Thanks for your input
Parts for this model of compressor available from HF are here. Otherwise, you may be out of luck and may need to get the connecting rod made for you.
I bought a compressor used and doesn’t have a manual. How do i find a model number. Can you help
What is the HP of the compressor you have, plus, if you can find out, the tank size?
Go the the Harbor Freight site and see if that one is there.
Or, Google Central Pneumatic compressors (adding the motor HP and tank size) and see if you get an image back of yours. That may help identify the model.
Adding a couple of photos of your compressor in a comment on this thread wouldn’t hurt.
Here are some pics. Psi 175 max
Thanks for the pics.
It would appear as though yours is an older version of the currently available C201H. If you go to the HF website and look for this one, you can download from that page the three manuals of the various iterations of this compressor. Please check and see if the info you get from them is what you are looking for.
CP model#61454
Looking for part #15884
Reed valve rebuild kit
You have checked with HF to see if they’ve got it? The 2019 manual for this compressor shows that it was available from them then. REPLACEMENT PARTS IN STOCK
Call to Order: 1-800-444-3353
Will this capacitor work as replacement for stock one? The second picture where am I holding it with my hand is the stock one
Compressor model 61454 2.5 hp 21 gallon
Specs on possible replacement: 140 microfarads 250 VAC
As the page says I believe, if the micro farad specs are comparable, if the voltage range is comparable, and you can actually fit the new cap in the location where the old one was, then you’r good to go. It appears as though the new cap meets those criteria.
My compressor still won’t run and there was no improvement from the new capacitor. I replaced the capacitor on my central pneumatic compressor and I believe the old one was good still , could it be the motor or some other part I can replace, I don’t believe it’s The on/auto switch, I replaced that already and the one I had on before worked fine before The compressor just buzzes and no rotation of the compressor. Even when I try to get it going by pushing the fan and removing the cold start valve, it still will not continue or start running.
Model: 61454
Power: 2.5
21 gallon tank
125 psi
Darn, Emmett. Yup, if the start cap doesn’t resolve the issue, and the motor is trying to start and it’s not doing so, then it’s a motor issue. If you know about electrical motors,pull the shaft cap off and see if there is a centrifugal switch. If that’s locked up that may be the issue. Failing that, it’s time for an electric motor shop I would think.
Hi, my harbor freight air compressor is not turning over, the motor refuses to spin, it buzzes and then the fuse will get tripped, not sure what the problem is. Hasn’t been used much at all.
Model 61454 21 gallon 2.5 hp pressure switch 125 psi
Where do I get the exact start capacitor for my model air compressor
Model 61454, 21 gallon, 125 psi, 2.5 hp
http://fix-my-compressor.com/finding-a-new-compressor-capacitor/
If it was working where it is before, and the power supply hasn’t changed, then I think the link following has information about what the problem is on your compressor.
http://fix-my-compressor.com/is-the-compressor-start-capacitor-working/
Looking for new pistin ring, head o-ring gasket set needed for model: 67847
2.5 hp, 21 Gallon, 125 psi, upright oiled compressor.
Any help on part numbers or where to find parts. Thank You!
I can find no sources for parts for a central pneumatic 67847. I hope someone else can help, though I expect their will be few available. All you may be able to do is measure the various components and try to find them from the manufacturers such as O rings, piston rings etc. The compressor companies rarely make these items themselves.
Hi I have a HF 62551 (many model number are the same) compressor 6 gal, 1.5hp . I need regulator parts or a regulator. Is it available or can you recommend a generic I can get a few parts out of. Parts and orings just under the knob. Thanks
Cannot find a photo of the unit. Please add a comment with a photo of the compressor, and a closeup of the installation where the regulator attaches. Thanks.
I have a 3 gallon pancake compressor and pulled a Griswold. I stepped on the manifold coking to the tool side of the regulator and the manifold is broken in two places. Any suggestions for where I can purchase a new manifold that would fit? Compressor, gauges and regulator all work great. Thanks
Steven, I don’t know what you mean by “manifold coking”. I suspect you meant cover? Regardless, there are no after-market parts for the 3 gallon pancake compressor that I’ve found, however, the ones I did find all are more than $30 plus shipping. Since a new 3 gallon Central Pneumatic is $60, if this size provides enough air, if it were me I’d buy a new one and keep the old one for parts which, I expect, will be needed sooner than later. Good luck.
Sorry – that was a typo. I meant to say “stepped on the manifold on the tool side…”. I’m going to be taking the manifold to a couple of shops and see if they have any suggestions as I have found nothing online. I will post an update if I have anything worth sharing.
Just bought a 21 gallon compressor and was wondering if there was supposed to be metal stuff in oil breather
Oil breather? Are you talking about the air intake to the pump? Please clarify. Also, what model is it? Thanks.
I have a CP 21 gal 125psi vertical A/C! It will not build pressure above 25psi & the Start valve is continuously leaking! Is there a way I can repair it or must I purchase a new start valve! I live in South Louisiana!
By the start valve, are you perhaps referring to what I would call the pressure switch? If so, when the compressor is running no air should be exiting the unloader valve that is part of this pressure switch. I can’t see if the unloader is on the side of the pressure switch or underneath and integral to the switch. From what you’ve written it seems that the unloader valve is not shutting off when the compressor starts to pump air, as it is supposed to. You may have a problem with the unloader then. See the pages about various compressor parts on this site if you aren’t sure of what I write.
I have the same problem changed cold start valve & check valve. Air just blows out cold start valve. where is the pressure switch located on motor.
Mike, the photos I see of a Central Pneumatic 21 gal 125psi vertical A/C I see the pressure switch sitting on a nipple that flows air from the tank to it, on one side of the pump. If this is not your compressor, please add a photo of yours. Thanks.
CENTRAL PNEUMATIC 6 Gallon 1.5 HP 150 PSI “Pancake” Air Compressor regulator (red knob on top) is broke. I need replacement.
Where in the world can you find one? Searched the web. Going to visit my HF in the morning. Thanks!
April 19, 2020
I have leak from the regulator knob – I’m thinking I need a new one or maybe there’s an o-ring in there? Did you find parts?
I expect you’ll find that HF will not be able to help, not really having much of a supply chain for the many different models of air compressors they sell. I also expect that the regulator is part of a manifold, and that you’ll not be able to get parts… I may be wrong.
Here’s a link to the page about your compressor. On it you’ll find links to the manuals of the two model numbers that fall under these specs. Have a look at the manual for your compressor and scroll down to the parts drawing and list to see what I mean.
I have the 8 gallon Central Pneumatic model 40400, I have an issue where the shut off switch won’t stay up by itself in order to shut it off while running. I have to keep it held up while I pull the plug. It will stay up when the compressor is not running. I’m guessing I need to just replace the switch, Anything else I should check before doing that?
Are you saying that the manual shut off isn’t working? The ON/OFF switch should be on all the time the compressor is running, and the pressure switch is what shuts it off and cuts it back on when the pressure drops. If the ON/OFF part of the switch won’t shut off, yup, it’s time for a new switch. As to anything else, are there any other symptoms on the compressor that you feel aren’t right?
Yes, the manual shut-off. As far as I can tell, it is the only power switch. Thanks for your help. I’l replace the switch. .
CP 2.5hp 21gal, After good service for 3 years, the 1/4″ cold start valve failed to close after running the normal time. I ordered another cold start valve and installed it and it also bypasses continuously without closing. Am I missing something obvious?
Was the compressor still able to pump up to cut off pressure even though air was leaking?
Willy, it never got above 40psi. Is my problem related to volume issue. Maybe a reed valve leaking back to intake? I thought about installing a 1/4″ valve in place of the start valve and close it after the compressor got it’s stroke rate going and see what the pressure built up to. If it don’t’ build pressure I’ll pull the head and check the reeds. Any different ideas Willy? I’m retired oilfield but, surprisingly, I didn’t reach for the four pound hammer first
I think, rather than a cold start valve, that you have a pump valve failing and it’s not able to generate enough to close the cold start, providing that the replacement cold start has the same closing pressure as the original.
If you haven’t tossed out the old cold start, a good rinsing in solvent might help, but that won’t stop the issue if it’s not the cold start and a pump valve or gasket issue.
Also, if you have a plug for the cold start port, plug it. Empty the tank, that will emulate the venting over the piston, and start the compressor. If it doesn’t build to cut out pressure, it’s not the start valve.
Have you found a solution? I have same compressor and same issue. Start valve NOT closing and all air goes out. Have replaced start valve, did not help. Reeds intact and working. Appreciate your help and feedback
Hi Chris. Did you do the test I refer to in the post before yours? Try taking the start valve out of the equation and see if the pressure pumps up. Let us know. Thanks.
By this, do you mean plugging the start valve port and seeing if unit will pressurize until cutoff pressure? No, have not done yet. Is it safe to plug this port? Currently As soon as I turn compressor on ALL pressurized air goes out thru start valve (large volume of air not trickle) and gauge reads 30/40 lb pressure that’s it. Reed valves are good.
One of the challenges about helping folks on line is that I cannot see what part the questioner is asking about if no photo is included.
A start valve is there to allow the initial compression of air in the piston to occur without back pressure. After the piston cycles a few strokes building pressure should close the start valve, if what you are referring to as a start valve is what I think is a start valve.
Therefore, if the tank is empty and the compressor is off, then that emulates what a start valve does, and at that point plugging it is not going to cause any issue with this start, only after the tank is full of air.
So, to be sure, add a comment to this thread with a photo of the start valve on your compressor, and then we’ll know for sure.
Sorry, I do not have a picture. I am referring to the brass start valve (#16260) that is located on top of the cylinder head. As soon as compressor is turned on, all air exits via this valve (doesn’t close) and pressure won’t go above 30 PSI. I replaced with new valve, but did not solve problem. Reeds are good. Also, I am new to this site and just learning how to navigate and find responses. Sorry for the delay, and I appreciate your help.
Chris, the cold start valve you refer is supposed to start once the head pressure reaches the fairly low pressure level to close the valve and allow air to flow down into the tank.
Odds are pretty good that a new one hasn’t failed unless there’s ton’s of oil bypassing the piston seal and being forced into the cold start valve by escaping air.
If it’s not the cold start valve that is at fault all it can be is that there isn’t enough pressure generated by the piston moving on start up to slam that cold start valve flapper/ball closed. That points to the piston seals as far as I’m concerned.
I have a used Central Pneumatic “67708” air compressor and last summer the Oil Breather Plug just shot out. I contacted Harbor Freight and they don’t sell them. So my questions is will these fit my air compressor?
John, I don’t have the compressor in front of me to measure the threads on the oil dipstick tube. 16 mm is just under 3/8″. Is that what the hole size is in the oil fill tube?
Hi, Not sure where my first post went.
I measured the opening yesterday and it measured 5/8 of an inch. I also used a 5/8 tap just to check the threads, and it wasn’t tight but it threaded in. I’m attaching a picture of measuring.
Thanks for the photo, John. So, you know the port is approximately 5/8″, but it’s loose. That suggests that the thread is metric to me. What’s the size of the thread on the plugs you found?
Male Thread Diameter: 16mm/0.6″; Total Size: 56 x 28mm/2.2″ x 1.1″(L*Max.D)
5/8 is .625 so it might work.
Thank you. Ill let you know if they work.
I have a 21 gal Central Pneumatic compressor… Works great — fills up to 105psi and as soon as it hits that number, it shuts off and starts bleeding air from the pressure valve. When down to 50psi or so it starts up again. Back up to 105psi, shuts off and bleeds very rapidly down to 50psi and starts running again. I just replaced the pressure valve with a like one — seems to be doing the same thing. Ideas?
Allen, it sounds very much like your tank check valve, the valve that is supposed to keep the air in the tank and ready for use, is leaking, allowing tank air to flow up and out the unloader. Dump all the air with the power cord out, remove the fitting where the line from the pump enters the tank, and clean and test the tank check valve.
Thanks — I’ll give it a try…
Item #67696 Won’t hold air pressure at all wont stop running.
Sure Charles. A good place to start? Right here: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-will-not-stop/
As well, other issues that maybe in play can be found here: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/
Please have a look, and then, add a comment to this thread if you still need some help.
I have the Central Pneumatic #62511 6 gallon oilless air compressor that pumps up to nearly 150 psi but does not stop. I attempted to remove the top, but none of the sockets I have will remove the m6x25 screws (I have tried all metric and sae sizes that will fit down the hole. It looks to me like the screws have a round head rather than a hex head which makes no sense, except if this is a way to keep owners from servicing their unit. The compressor is about a year old, and has about 5 hours of use on it. Any information on this will be welcome.
I used a FTX30A snap on.
I was about to cut the plastic before I finally found it.
Now I’ve got to figure out how to replace belt.
My Harbor Freight air compressor has only about five hours on it, and it will not pump more than 50 PSI. Used to work fine.
Model 62803, 21 gallon, 2.5 HP motor. Can you advise?
Sure. The answer depends on what happens when the compressor gets to the 50 PSI. Does it stop? Does it keep running? Please advise, and please also look at this page for more information.
keeps running.
Okay, if the pressure stays at 50 PSIish, and doesn’t rise, and the compressor keeps running, it’s typically a leak (tank drain, unloader valve, open line) or the pump has an issue with air sealing. A gasket or seal in the pump head, or a valve that isn’t working right. Solutions are found on either the troubleshooting or brand-specific pages on this site.
My 6 gal 1.5 GO will not start its approx 8 months old barely used shot approx 400 3 in nails that’s it.
I have a central pneumatic 8 gallon air compressor, model 94355 and need a pressure regulator. Can’t find one anywhere. The adjusting knob is stripped.
Keith, I am unable to find a reliable image of this 94355. Please add a comment with a photo of the whole compressor, and a photo of the regulator you are trying to replace. If the regulator is in a manifold, please remove the cover before taking the photo.
Here are photos with the regulator in and out. Thanks
Yeah, I was afraid of that. There are no after market sources for the regulator manifold. Your only choice I can see is to build one using off the shelf brass fittings, one that works the same but doesn’t have to look the same, and that may mean cutting out a piece of the cover to allow your jury rigged manifold to fit.
I got a central pneumatic 125 psi 21 gal 2.5hp air compressor keeps running not building air what could be the problem
Could be a bunch of things, Dillon. Hard to be specific in this response when the troubleshooting page on this site has a link to a page that is all about just this issue. Maybe have a look at that, and then add a comment here if you still require help. Thanks.
My central pneumatic compressor 2.5hp. 21 gallon squires oil through the fill cap?? What can it be??
Follow the link to the general troubleshooting page, and then scroll down to the page that addresses this issue. If you still need help after, please add a comment.
I have a 30 gal 150 psi vertical compressor that won’t pump up more than 50 lbs. No leaks. Where can i buy parts to rebuild the motor? Compression rings and oil rings and gaskets.
Not a lot of Harbor Freight air compressors have parts supply, Glynn.
You can search using the model number. Without that it will be hard.
You can make valve plates and gaskets yourself, and pages about that can be found on this site. As to the motor, any electric motor repair shop should be able to help. Unfortunately, getting professionals involved with rebuilding lower cost compressor components can quickly add up to more money that buying a new compressor off the bat.
I could not find a model number on this unit but did find a parts diagram blow up naming all the parts. I can rebuild it myself, i rebuild engines myself. Already bought a big 80 gal compressor but wanted to fix this one and give it go my son in law who doesn’t have one. The parts manual had a model number that closely match the piston housing on mine. It said that i could not buy parts but must buy the motor as a unit. In that case, it would be cheaper to just buy a new unit. I like my son in law, but not that much.
:-}
Can the Central Pneumatic 3 gallon 1/3 HP 100 PSI Oil-Free Pancake compressor be modified to have an intake feed rather than pulling from the ambient air around the motor, without having to drill and tap the cylinder head for a check valve and somehow disabling the intake through the piston?
If the intake of the piston is on the top of the piston cap, and it is not presently threaded, then no, I don’t see how.
If you can plumb the air to the intake port and the supply line is bigger than the intake port of the compressor, it should work. It would also depend on how long the supply line was and how many fittings in it, as that would reduce air flow.
I have a central pneumatic 3 gal 100 psi. It wont cut off after reaching pressure.
Likely the pressure switch is the issue, Bob. Please see this page for links to how to check.
Hi, I have a central Pneumatic 1/3 hp 3 gallon pancake compressor, it won’t work at all. My husband used it for some trim and now it’s completely dead. Tried the reset switch and got nothing. Is all hope lost? Thank you
Sure. Please see: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-will-not-start/ and do the checks. Add a comment to the thread if you still need help after.
I have a Central Pneumatic model # 61454
The problem I am having is it shuts off at about 40 lbs and it won’t come bass look on unless I hit the reset button. Anyone else had this problem?
Lots of folks have the same sort of issue with their air compressors, Buck. Have a look at this page and scroll down to those that are part of the diagnosis and correction: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/
Please add a comment to your post if you still need compressor help.
I was having this problem too, my motor was drawing too many amps and overheating. This was due to having a 5HP SPL motor which is actually only 3.5hp with a 15amp full load. I purchased a new motor that is 6.5hp continuous at 23amps and have no problems at all. Check your motors amp draw at full load right before the thermal overload switch trips.
Brand new 1/3hp 3gal burns up fuse as soon as it is turned on. What amp fuse do I need?
If it is a Central Pneumatic 69269 compressor, it’s a 3 amp fuse.
father has a CentralPneumatic 2.5 HP, 21 gallon, 125 PSI cast iron vertical air compressor model 67847 that will not start. Can I get some ideas on what to troubleshoot that could be the problem for this compressor. My dad does have the original manual and I called the customer service number but they were not very helpful. Tried taking to a repair shop and were informed they do not work on Harbor Freight compressors
Check the capacitor on the motor, just replaced mine.
Sure. See the links from this page: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/
Hi,
I have a 3gal oiless 100psi pancake compressor Model # 61615. it was filling today and then suddenly I heard a big change in the noise it was making to fill. I then noticed it would not fill at all. I took apart and discovered the aluminum line that goes from motor/pressure head is broken. Any chance in finding a new one?
Hi David. I got a chuckle out of seeing the Q.C. (quality control) label beside the broken part. Take the fitting off both ends and go to a decent plumbing shop. They should be able to make one for you out of soft copper tube, which will work just fine. Or, get the fittings and tube and make your own using soft copper.
I have the average 10gal 2.5 hp air compressor on wheels pushes like 4cfm. I would like info on how or if possible to install proper compressor to get like 7.5+cfm I see motors and compressor for under 200 total but no info on if it will fit my style
John if you are looking for a compressor that delivers 7.5 CFM at 90 PSI, then you’ll want to get a compressor that’s a “real” 3 HP or so. Otherwise, you’ll stand the risk of buying a compressor that promises higher flow, but cannot deliver. On average, a smaller air compressor will deliver about 3-4 CFM of air at 90 PSI per each “real”, that’s run HP, not start HP, of compressor.
I purchased the 1.5 HP, 6 GAL. 150 Max. PSI. compressor. I used this about 4 times. The 5th time, I noticed that the compressor ran for a longer time than normal.
I went to inspect, found that the pressure gauges both showed less than 10 psi. I could feel the air being by-passed out the relief valve.
So I took off the top and checked the fasteners for the head. WOW, found two of them stripped. CHEAP FASTENERS FOR A $100.00 plus compressor.
Will never buy another central pneumatic item!!! I will go to Home Depot and get some higher grade fasteners. Thanks Central Pneumatic.
My start valve on my 125 psi harbor freight compressor wasn’t popping out. I replaced it. Still didn’t work. After checking things I found on the internet about it, plus taking the head off and checking reed valves, it still wouldn’t work.. I removed the air filter and the start valve popped out and started filling with air.
I replaced the whole filter unit.. Works great!
I have model #69667 I need replacement part 49 drain valve broken ?
If you are speaking of the tank drain valve, if you browse for “replacement tank drain valve” you will find many. It doesn’t have to be one from the compressor manufacturer.
Anybody know where I can get the three-eared Inlet valve reed for a Central Pneumatic 26 gal air compressor?? (item #69669, part #6 in the PDF owner’s manual) Thank you in advance