DeVilbiss air compressors have been around a long time.
This next paragraph is provided by Wikipedia:
“MAT Industries LLC (formerly the DeVilbiss Air Power Company) is an American company that manufactures air compressors, pneumatic tools, generators, pressure washers, and accessories for them. The company was founded in 1888. In 1999 Devilbiss Air Power Co. was acquired by Pentair. Pentair sold the company to Black & Decker in 2004. Following the 2010 merger of Stanley Works and Black and Decker,the new Stanley Black & Decker sold DeVilbiss Air Power to MAT Holdings on March 31, 2011. The company is now known as MAT Industries LLC (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAT_Industries,_LLC)”
If your Devilbiss air compressor is reasonably current, consider contacting MAT Industries directly for information and support:
MAT Holdings Inc.
6700 Wildlife Way,
Long Grove, IL 60047
Phone (847) 821-9630
Web: www.matholdingsinc.com
The address is the locale for their DeVilbiss U.S, operations. You can get access to their European and Asian information from their website too.
MAT Holdings has a number of recognized brands in tools and in air compressors. See their brands here: www.matholdingsinc.com/Brands.aspx.
Parts for Devilbiss air compressors are also still available from other on line sources. If you Google “parts for Devilbiss air compressors” you will find a number of sources. With any luck, your Devilbiss air compressor will still be supported through these outlets.
In Canada, the Devilbiss name appears to be held by a company called DeVair, and they supply Devibiss compressor parts. see: www.dvcompressors.com/.
This page offers a place for Devilbiss air compressors owners to ask questions and post responses helping each other with user obtained information.
Please read the existing questions and answers before posting your own question, and do feel free to comment to help another Devilbiss air compressor owner if you can.
The following pages are comments or additional information about DeVilbiss air compressors that can be found on this site:
Hi. I’ve got a DeVilbiss 30 gallon electric air compressor, model # PRF5530. I suspect I have a bad motor capacitor. There is only one. It’s rusty, and measures only 29.12 microfarads. The motor starts slow, then trips the breaker after seconds or so. The problem I have is I don’t see any label that show the specs or the part number for the capacitor. Help! All the online parts diagrams don’t show any motor parts. Any help would be appreciated. -Mark
I have a Sears compressor pump CAC-4029 (devilbiss) in a box I was asked to put back together…. is there specific piston to rod orientation and rod to crank orientation?
The rods have a flat boss and a round boss. Thanks
I inherited a Devilbiss compressor manufacture date 1978. MFGS. No. 00059170.
I drained the oil but cannot see where to add new oil. Any help will be appreciated.
I have a DeVilbiss F5030 air compressor which has two capacitors. Can someone tell me where I can purchase new capacitors?
Thanks
Does anyone know where I can purchase an Operators/Parts Manual for a Devilbiss Model NCX compressor?
My 20 gallon 5 hp devilbiss compressor immediately blows the fuse when I plug it in. The motor turns freely, so it’s not seized up. What could cause it to blow fuses?
Hi there. Assuming that the unloader valve is working, it could be electrical, and it could be capacitor related. Here’s a page on this site that should help. Please add a comment here if you still need advice after doing the checks. Cheers.
I have a Devilbliss air compressor (FB5520VP-WK) in which I had replaced the original pressure switch (Ac-0385-1) to a Lefoo LF10-4H-1-NPT1/4-95-125 because it no longer worked due to age and leakage.The new Lefoo is not even a year old but I am somewhat having a problem with the the motor starting up for a bit only to have it bog down and eventually tripping the circuit breaker. I have a 20amp circuit breaker in the panel feeding the shed where it is located separate from residence and all other power to outlets in shed are not connected. The air compressor would be running off a single receptacle in the shed and still trips the breaker when I try to run the air compressor. What could be the issue? ( Run capacitor, pressure switch, motor?)
UPDATE: I replaced the run capacitor with a new same rating as original cap and still trips the breaker. I had also pugged in the compressor to a power generator and same thing.
I have a Devilbiss Pro 4000 compressor1996 year manufactured. Model Number is RAF412-2. Use it around the garage periodically.
My issue is that the compressor will start and run to cut out pressure and when it reaches the cut in pressure my motor will be “boggy” and and very soon it trips my 20 amp breaker. Happens on any circuit I have tried.
If I drain down the tank with a blow nozzle I can get it started again and same thing will happen after cutting out and back in.
I did look up some info and thought it was the start capacitor – but it tested out fine at a local motor rewinding shop. I then took off the valve that threads inside the tank (check valve? Unloader Valve?) I tried to match it up online and it looks like that part is discontinued/obsolete. Part number: CAC-4290-3.
I am looking for a part that will work. There is also a bushing that threads on the valve that allows it to thread into the tank. That is also obsolete.
I do not think I can get the bushing off the threads of the valve without damaging the threads.
Any ideas if I can find any replacement or if there is another part that I should test. Would the run capacitor be worth testing?
I have a devilbiss air compressor (220 v) . Pistons and cylinders might be worn or rings are worn. Where can I order parts . Just checking to c if worth repairing. It just takes forever to build air.
Trying to rebuild Devilbiss 432 compressor. Low pressure cylinder severe corrosion prevents ball hone cleanup. Suggestions to resolve greatly appreciated
I need to replace a kk-4981 air filter muffler kit on my Devilbiss air compressor. I cannot find one anywhere. What replacement will work.
Normally I would ask for this… What’s the intake diameter threaded hole size? What is the model of Devilbiss you have? Thanks.
However, when I browsed for “buy a kk-4981 air filter muffler kit for Devilbiss air compressor” I found a number of sources, with a price in the $25 – $30 range, plus shipping I would expect. So, they are out there for you to buy, just use the search string I did and you should find them. Good luck.
Anyone know what the max tank pressure is on the older 60gal?
I don’t have that info Glenn, but these folks might: sales@centrair.ca
You’ll need the model number I expect. Please let us know if they were able to help. Thanks.
5 hp 60 gal devilbiss is 125 psi.
I’m replacing the check valve and safety valve on my Devilbiss IRL6560v air compressor and I’d like to know the installation torque values for each. The manual says in bold letters DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN but doesn’t mention what, in fact, it considers OVERTIGHTEN to mean.
If anyone knows and can pass this information along it will be most appreciated.
I don’t have the specific values, Jon.
What I’d do is make them hand tight, then turn 1/2 turn more with a wrench. Fire up the compressor, and use a soap solution to check for leaks. If any, tighten another 1/4 turn, and then check again. Repeat as necessary.
Make sure you use a decent pipe dope (I don’t use tape) to get the threads to turn in easily and a bit further.
@willyr, you might know the answer to my question regarding the air intake. This is my Devilbiss 5HP 20 gal belt drive Pro Air compressor.
I removed the air filter cover and the foam that was stuffed in there. Looks like it should be felt, not foam. Here’s a pic with the foam removed.
Is that tiny grey pinhole (red arrow) the air intake? Or are those two depressions on either side (just behind the threaded mounting posts for the cover) supposed to be the air intake and they’re clogged up?
Thanks,
Joe
I have this same compressor and I took it apart several months ago to replace the motor. I finally had to have it rebuilt because they don’t sell it anymore. The problem that I have is that I forgot how the one part goes back on. Specifically, parts 31-36 on this diagram are what I am having trouble remembering how they line up. Is there any way that you could get a good picture of that area on yours and send it to me? I would sure appreciate it.
Hard to be sure, but I would say that the hole with the arrow is the intake for this compressor. What I cannot see is when you’ve got the cover on the intake area, where is the inlet in the cover?
As far as filter media goes, I would simply buy a furnace filter, remove any outer cardboard or cover, and cut the remaining filer material cut it to fit the space, with enough layers to fill the area.
Does anyone have the manual for the Devilbiss 5HP 20 gal belt drive Pro Air PRL 5020 or similar compressor? Can’t seem to find one online. Thanks!
Hope someone can provide a .pdf of the manual so I can get it to you, Joe. This company – ereplacementparts.com, has access to some parts, and shows a blowup of the compressor. Also, if you are looking for parts, some of those on the compressor are available on the after market, just not from Devilbiss. Good luck.
I have an old Devilbiss Pro Air stationary air compressor, I’m assuming from the 80’s (tank label says mfr date 1984). It has a 3hp 230vac motor and a 60ish gallon tank…She still runs great, but I’m trying to find out what oil I should use since its been sitting a while. There is no tag on the pump itself, all I have to go off of is a label on the front that says “Model no DAC-5360V” and “Comp no 2650-4502”. I cannot find anything online for those numbers. Can you assist? Thanks!
If it’s colder where you are a SAE 20 weight oil, DETERGENT FREE, is what you want, unless your compressor has an oil filter (which I doubt it has). If it’s regulator temps up to 100 F, SAE 30 weight detergent free will typically do.
If in doubt, acquire compressor lubricating oil from a reputable dealer. That’s what I would use.
Correct, no filter so I will be sure to get detergent free. I’m in Virginia where year-round temps swing from 20-100F – The compressor is inside the garage so likely not over 100F ambient temps. Sounds like 20 weight is the way to go then. Appreciate your insight! If anyone has a parts diagram or any model info I would still be interested in case I need parts or something down the road.
I have a Devilbiss Pro Air II with a 30 gal tank. The pump is an
AC-007. I need a new piston, cylinder, etc. Does anyone know who makes the replacement parts or kits? It was built in 1994. PAFC 430
Does anyone out there have a devilbiss 432 intecooler your willing to sell?
I have a beautiful 5 hp two stage that really needs to get back into service.
Please let me know!!
I’ve got a 432 with 1 bad low pressure cylinder. Let me know if you have one for sale. If I can’t repair then I will have 2 intercoolers available
Isaac did you repair your 432. If not I am looking for a low pressure std piston and rod
I have a 4 hp, 20 gallon DeVilbiss compressor- model F420-2. I just replaced the pressure switch and I need to replace the muffler. The replacement part looks nothing like the original. The original is a plastic rectangular piece while the replacement is a metal, cylindrical shape part that is threaded. It doesn’t seem to be the correct replacement. If it is, how do I get the old on out. Thanks.
I’m not sure who determined that the replacement was the right one, Colin. However, it doesn’t look so to me. I think that the key in a compressor intake filter is that the “hole” size of the intake should be equal to or larger than the original. By that I mean you don’t want to restrict the air flow on intake.
Do you still have the cover for the old intake filter? I would think that it has louvers or openings in it. The total area of those openings should be the guide.
If you still have the cover, if this were my compressor, I’d simply acquire an air filter for an auto engine intake, cut it to fit the size of the old filter housing, ensure that it’s inserted in the housing in the same orientation as air would flow into the engine, and replace the cover. I suspect you’d be able to get a few replacement filters our of a square or rectangular vehicle air filter. I suggest their use as these filters have to flow a lot of air into the engine, and your compressor needs a lot of intake flow in order to work efficiently too.
Have a Devilbiss 5 hp 20 gal F5020 compressor that sometimes trips the breaker when starting up. When it starts it exceeds the cut-out pressure by about 10 psi and after releasing pressure from the tank it has an inconsistent cut-on pressure (when it would start sometimes it would trip the breaker), somewhere between 60 and 95 psi .The motor spins freely by hand and the pump moves up without resistance. Replaced start and run capacitors (they tested okay, but one had a burn indication on the outside). Replaced the pressure switch and relief valve. It still sometimes trips the breaker on startup or cut-on but if I spin the motor by hand for a second then turn it on it starts up. Once started it builds pressure okay.
First quick check Dale, is the unloader working? Please see this page.
Yes, I replaced the unloader and pressure switch. If it starts without tripping the breaker the compressor now shuts off at 130 PSI and after lowering the tank pressure the compressor comes on at 95 PSI.
Thanks for the update. Are you saying that the issue is resolved, or are you saying that the compressor starts and stops fine, but sometimes won’t start?
That is correct, it starts and stops at the right pressures but will still occasionally trip the breaker. The breaker tripping can occur when I first turn it on or when it is recharging. The breaker tripping does not occur every time, just on occasion (about 1 in every 8 to 10 start ups).
Dale, if you are sure that the unloader works every time, and that the start capacitor is good, and the pressure switch trips to passing every time, and still your compressor has a periodic start problem, then I’d be looking toward the motor. Maybe a flat spot on the brushes, assuming that motor has them? Maybe get a load test on the motor?
old problem 1949 Devilbiss 330. 2hp GE 115/230. seems to take for ever to fill my 80 gal tank. approx. 20 – 30 min. oil is good. runs and sound great. where can I get info on cleaning the head valves if that my problem thanks
Keep it going if you can. They don’t make them like that any more, for sure. Have you pulled the top off the pump. Can you add a couple of photos of the valves in a comment? It could be the valves Wayne, but it also could be blow-by of the piston seals. Are you getting air out of the oil fill tube/vent?
I haven’t pulled the top off yet. I re ringed the compressor approx. 20 years ago (got the rings from new jersey) all worked good there doesn’t appear to be any blow by. I have 240v hooked up. haven’t run the unit for 15 years.(compressor stayed in my heated garage in Alberta Canada) I had a smaller oil less given to me years ago and I was using it. Body mechanic by trade so its nice to have the 80gal tank when spraying ect. air pressures up to 140psi kicks out then kicks in at approx. 80psi–90psi. no leaks I just thought it may be the Valves. I was going to pull the caps off tonight. 30w non detergent oil has always been used. what are your thoughts. I did not when it shuts off the pump pulley turns a few times back and fourth. I forget if it did that prior
by the way thanks for the reply
Are you saying that the pressure switch trips off at 80-90 PSI and then kicks on again? It would be good, if that’s the case, to know if the power flow through the pressure switch is actually interrupted when the unit cuts out. If it restarts again without a problem on it’s own, what’s the time frame for it to restart?
hi I took the valves out attached photos very very dirty. piston & walls look good, can you tell by the photos if the valves are assembled correctly I cleaned the left front big valve and after assembly it seems very tight.(meaning I cant push the valve and move the inner spring while it is out and in my hands) do you know if there is a kit available. looks like these valves may be the problem. what are your thoughts
Wayne I can’t tell, but these folks might: “parts available for the 330 pump are the valve discs and springs.” This company has them: http://www.centrair.ca/devilbiss-parts/old-devilbiss-330-pump-parts/
thanks for your help. I will order the parts. there was a cracked and chipped disc on one of them.
have a great day
I have a Devibiss 80 gallon compressor and there are 2 pressure valves, one in the manifold keeps popping at only 60 psi and does not allow the compressor to buid up enough pressure to turn off.
If your “pressure valve” is what I would call a “pressure relief valve”, there’s one in the line between two cylinders to ensure that, the there is a problem with the air flow through the second cylinder and enough air cannot get through, that compressor over pressure doesn’t create an unsafe pressure buildup. If that’s the case here, then I would suspect a problem with the intake or pressure valve in the head of the second cylinder, and that means a tear down to see, Tom.
If the opening pressure relief valve is downstream from the second cylinder, that might only mean that the PRV itself is the problem. It could be just “lubricated” with air borne crud. Dump the air, remove it, rinse thoroughly in a solvent, let it dry completely, cycle the piston by pulling and pushing on the ring a few times, then reinstall. If it fails again at 60 PSI or below the tank cut out pressure, replace it.
I have a DeVilbiss air compressor Type VAF 5006 Model# 268270 any one knows how old it is? ( works like new ) Thank you
I have a 6.5 hp 80 gallon compressor, gasket leaking on exhaust tube at top of cylinder heat need gasket, mod# 59n0060kx0919 lot # 091556.
I have a 28 yr old 5hp 20gal DeVilbiss 120 volt oil type compressor that the auto-switch is no longer working. It runs until the breaker flips. How would I fix that? I’m guessing I just need a new part that goes in the switch box.
Al, if it runs and only gets some air in the tank, and the gauge doesn’t rise any further, that’s symptomatic of a pump problem. Maybe look at this page, scroll down to the pages that talk about this issue, for more help.
Thanx for the quik reply. The tank fills past 120psi then the regulator valve starts leaking. I think the problem is the switch that should cut off when regulated pressure is reached.
Yup. Typically if the tank pressure rises past the normal cut out pressure setting of that compressor pressure switch, it’s the pressure switch itself that has the problem. Broken diaphragm, broken spring, welded points… could be anything. Time to replace the switch I would say.
Sure looks like a broken reed valve to me. Also, good luck finding a part. What you want to do is measure it carefully (as if it were whole) and then google spare compressor reed valves. You should be able to find one out there. Good luck.
I have a devilbiss 330-4-1, can u tell me what size motor it needs and rpms
I can only tell you that from what I’ve seen on line, this compressor has ha a 4.5 and a 5 HP motor on it. I suspect if you go with either, you’ll be fine. As to the recommended RPM’s, that I’ve not been able to find, so you’ll have to wait and see if another visitor provides the information, or contact https://dvsystems.com who may be able to help too.
i have a 5hp 20gal 120 volt compressor changed 1 bad capacitor motor runs 10 seconds then trips 20 amp breaker
Will it run with no air at all on the tank when you start it?
Hi Willyr. I responded to this earlier and you then sent me a reply, which I got by e-mail, but our conversation isn’t showing here on the forum. Yes, my motor has two capacitors. They look fine visually, but I haven’t educated myself on testing them yet. Maybe later this evening. I assume that they may be the culprit. I looked online and can’t seem to find the exact housing size for the starting capacitor. There are lots with the right technical specs, but they seem to be a different diameter. I’d hate to not be able to use the original holder/cover. Pic here:
Hello Hans. Since every posting and comment is reviewed before it goes live, and that requires someone to look at it, sometimes the time between posting and appearing can be a while. Sorry about that, but it’s necessary to keep crap off the site.
Test the cap can be found here: http://fix-my-compressor.com/is-the-compressor-start-capacitor-working/
If you need to get one a different diameter and that’s all that’s available, then sometimes a bit of jury-rigging is in order to make one fit, though I’d be surprised if you look hard enough you wouldn’t find one with the right specs that fit the location. Good luck.
I have this same problem on a 4hp/20gal Devilbiss and no, it will not run with an empty tank. Help!!
Does your compressor motor have 2 capacitors, Hans? And have you checked them both?
I have a Craftsman 1.5HP 20 gal compressor with a Devilbiss D30106 pump/motor assy. The motor has died, all switches, fuses are fine, brushes and comutator look good, 120 v to motor connections on motor. Haven’t disassembled to check for open field windings or shorted armature. Question, is the motor only available for this unit? Found a source for the motor/pump as a unit but cost is more than the whole compressor new.
I am in looking to ask if my DeVilbiss Air Power Compressor model #HFAC 28-2 has to be oil lubricated or not. Is it possible to get a manual for this model? Thank you.
Please double check the model number provided, and add a comment with pictures from each side of the pump on your DeVilbiss, if you would. I cannot find information on this model anywhere, which is a bit odd.
I can’t find an appropriate place on this site for my question so I’m posting here.
First a warning on replacement parts: I have a Devillbis CAC-4029 pump on my compressor. Some years ago I replaced one connecting rod. Now, I’m putting new rings in it and have both pistons out. When I went to attach the rod caps to the rods I stripped out the threads in the first one I put in. Turns out the replacement rod has slightly larger diameter rod bolts than the original one had and I put the two bolts from the remaining original rod into the new rod. Difference is .270″ diameter vs. .240″ and I didn’t notice it until too late.
Now my question; does anyone know a source for torque specs for the CAC-4029 pump?
Thanks,
Joe
(Post moved to the Devilbiss page – moderator)
Go To All Parts web site type in CAC-4029 it will give you a parts listing go to the pump parts listing and torque specs are in a box
I have a 125 HP Devilbiss Steel Driver air compressor and the drain valve is basically broken and i can’t drain it. I can hear some water swishing around, not a lot. The drain is a copper “T” screw (sorry for not knowing the correct name), and it’s basically stripped now assuming it’s rusted shut. What’s the best route to get this thing repaired and drained? Thank you!
The tank drain should be able to be screwed out to remove it. You may need a big wrench if the compressor is old and the drain is rusted in. If, in the process, you break the drain, you may need to get a broken thread puller. Your tank drain needs to be replaced.
I have a DeVilbiss 5.5 20 gallon air compressor. It’s been sitting for a while. It builds air to about 40lbs and won’t get any higher. You can hear air blowing back through the valve when you turn it off until it’s empty. Does this mean that the valve is bad?
Yes, and possibly that’s just one of the issues. Certainly, that’s a must fix, and if it’s a valve plate, we suggest you replace it, any gaskets you find, and make sure you check the piston seal(s) at the same time, since these parts are now accessible.
Hi I have a devibliss 5.5 hp and it fills up until it blows the fuse or if I shut it off it will blow the fuse as soon As turned back on. Is that the switch or unloader valve?
So, it starts sometimes but won’t fill the tank to the normal cut out pressure? Drain all the air from the tank. Try to start the compressor. If it starts OK but blows the fuse before the tank pressure reaches cut out, it could possibly be a short in the pressure switch, but we think that a compressor motor capacitor failing is likely. See the page on this site about how to test it / them.
I have a devilbiss 5 hp 60 gallon upright that is 25 years old and been a great compressor. but the problem now is trying to start it . the motor runs great but the pump turns slow and tries to stop turning to the point where the motor is still turning and the belt is squealing and smoking. its almost like the pump is trying to compression lock . if i turn it by hand it spins easily… any ideas what i can look for ?
We are assuming that the compressor is lubed, and that the oil sump is full, yes?.
Make sure the tank check valve works.
Make sure the intake port for the pump is clear.
If both OK, we would suspect an intake or pressure valve problem or a cylinder mechanical drive issue, perhaps due to wear and binding.
I have a .75 hp, 2 gal., 120v DeVilbiss compressor model RA102D-1. It has a pressure relief valve instead of a pressure switch. I would like to add a pressure switch. Is this possible, which should I use and how do I do it?
We see that this Devilbiss compressor has a continuous bleed once the tank pressure reaches a certain pressure level, yet the compressor runs continuously. Having a pressure switch would allow the compressor motor to stop once the tank pressure reached the cut out setting.
Can you add a pressure switch? Sure. As long as the wiring for the motor goes through the pressure switch, the pressure switch can “read” the tank pressure by having access to the tank, and as long as the cut out pressure setting of the switch are equal to the “bleed” pressure setting of the existing bleed valve, any switch would work.
Should you add a pressure switch? Maybe. Is the motor designed for frequent starts and stops? That we don’t know, so adding a pressure switch could have a negative affect on the life of the motor.
If you are prepared for maybe having a lower life on the motor, then we would tee off the line that’s running from the cylinder to the tank and plumb it to the pressure switch, then run the power supply to the motor through the switch so that the tank pressure would either turn on or turn off the motor depending on the tank pressure.
Be careful. Your Devilbiss RA102D was designed to work the way it does and changing that may have compressor failure a result. Don’t mess with electrical devices if you are not confident in your electrical knowledge.
Hi I have quesion about the regulator on a 20 year old DeVilbiss , 6.5 HP
Sure. What’s the question?